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Reverse lights not working

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14 Apr 2013 22:35 #68718 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Reverse lights not working
Reversing lights are not tested for the MOT ;)

I wouldn't take the engine out unnecessarily. there are loads of pipes and wires to disconnect and reconnect, and that is usually when you introduce new problems.

Pulling the gearbox back is easier.

Have you adjusted the clutch cable at the gearbox end to give some free play at the pedal?

As the clutch wears the free play disappears and the bite moves higher up the pedal.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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  • mickt
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17 Apr 2013 18:21 #68907 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Reverse lights not working
I picked up my switch today from the dealers. £29.20 and, you were right Kirkynut, the seal was on it. Top man.
Cheers mickt

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  • UKDAN
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14 May 2013 19:18 #70704 by UKDAN
Replied by UKDAN on topic Reverse lights not working

facade wrote: Reversing lights are not tested for the MOT ;)

Don't bother fixing it & if you need extra light when reversing turn on the rear fog light. Sorry I'm feeling lazy ATM.


Dan

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14 May 2013 19:40 #70710 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Reverse lights not working
It is not so much the light these give off. Its the warning to other motorists that you are actually moving ina different direction to them that my daughter wants them working!! Not that most of todays motorists take any notice!!

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25 Jul 2013 19:45 #78209 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Reverse lights not working
Well a bit behind schedule but I have finally got round to replacing the reverse light switch. It is awkward to get to but it is doable. The spanner size of the switch is 17/32, thin open ended. Because the switch comes with a fly lead it is awkward to rotate as the lead gets twisted on its self and as the leads are very small in diameter these days you have to be careful. The worst part of removing was that the fly lead is in a weird rubber cleat which is secured to the gearbox with a 12mm bolt. It was so tight and the access is so tight I ended up cutting the old switches leads close to the switch and then was able to unscrew the switch easily and pull the rest of the lead out of its cleat. As the total length of the lead is short and does not snag anything I did not bother trying to get the gearbox bolt out and just left it uncleated. When I do the clutch I will fit the lead back into the cleat. I did the king pins too this service so all good to go.

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