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2" body lift
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- oxford_bloke
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2) remove steering shaft
3) extend steering shaft as required mine was bout 30mm
4) remove head lights
5) make sure nothing is going to get streched and pop off or snap when jacking the body away from the chassis.
6) undo bolts x8 holding the chassis to the body
7) jack up the body one side and insert blocks
8)then the other (do not tighten them just yet)
9)tighten them all up.
10) reassemble
if you have the standard bumper I belive you have to fabricate brackets to raise the front bumper to match the body as it is attached to the chassis.
hope this helps
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No need to disconnect the fuel filler ... it should be ok ... (unless you want to)
Slacken bolts of steering shaft .. no need to disconnect
Remove body bolts (a good soak with WD40 for a good hour or so before will do wonders!!)
Do one side at a time ...
As for the standard bumpers, everyone has said that you uneed to fabricate new brackets .. personally I just attached ours back to their origional upper mounts and the only modifications I can see I need to do is the lower front ones
You also need to modify the transfer lever as with a lift fitted, you will no longer have 4 Low possible to select
Also, take note of the 2 vacuum hoses that are connected by flexi hoses to the front chassis. both of ours popped off, and if you want to continue using the vacuum operated 4x4, you will need to pull / extend these if they do become disconnected.
Former owner of Little "Ooky", who has now started a new life in Shetland
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Horses for courses really, personally I would say Suspension lift is more beneficial offroad with standard rims.
However but lifting the body, this will also allow you to fit larger tyres, but will not really give you a big advantage offroad .. as the suspension will be standard.
Former owner of Little "Ooky", who has now started a new life in Shetland
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- Strek
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oxford_bloke wrote: 1) disconnect fuel filler pipe
2) remove steering shaft
3) extend steering shaft as required mine was bout 30mm
4) remove head lights
5) make sure nothing is going to get streched and pop off or snap when jacking the body away from the chassis.
6) undo bolts x8 holding the chassis to the body
7) jack up the body one side and insert blocks
8)then the other (do not tighten them just yet)
9)tighten them all up.
10) reassemble
if you have the standard bumper I belive you have to fabricate brackets to raise the front bumper to match the body as it is attached to the chassis./quote]
This weekend, I have done a attempt of fitting my 2" bodylift. Unfortunately without the result I wanted. I wasn't able to figure out number 5 on the list above: 5) make sure nothing is going to get streched and pop off or snap when jacking the body away from the chassis.
Here is the main reason, does it HAVE to be fitted extended brakelines when fitting a BL? How have you guys sorted this out:
Next is all the piping, how have you guys fixed this? Refitted, or hanging loose? It is really tight here, so refitting is difficult. And man, I really hate those clamps. Impossible to release without breakage:
Next, is the routing along the radius arms. How is this solved best without having to rerout the entire system?:
And last but not least, as seen in this picture, the body needs almost 12cm of lift, before lowering the body on the new blocks. That means all off the issues described above needs 12 cm slack, not just 5cm (2"). A 2" block is plased next to the mounting as an example.:
Help needed on theese issuses. The stearing, the transfer, and the bumperfitting is a walk in the park compared to this..
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