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headlining removal

  • philpridd
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29 Jan 2017 11:41 #177472 by philpridd
Replied by philpridd on topic headlining removal
sorry,I should have said thanks Keithy,got you mixed up with Jack.

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29 Jan 2017 12:09 #177473 by jackonlyjack
Replied by jackonlyjack on topic headlining removal

philpridd wrote: thanks again Jack,l really want the aerial in the centre of the roof,it came with a magnetic mount,but I would prefer a permanent mount,with a quick release fitting,so I can just remove the aerial,without disturbing the lead to the c.b.,though if its too much of a job,I may stay with the magnetic mount,Thanks Phil.


stick with your first plan drill the roof
(as that's what you desire and the look you want)
when it comes to personalising no job is too much ;)
stick at it then you will be happy

Jack

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27 Jan 2019 12:18 #201837 by Bosanek
Replied by Bosanek on topic headlining removal
I was considering removing the headlining (the interior roof trim) for the purpose of installing additional vibration damping and sound insulation materials.

However, if the risk of creasing the roof trim panel is that high, I would not risk it.
Does anyone know of a proper method on how to properly remove it? On how many places is the trim glued to the roof?
After removing all side trim from the vehicle cabin, is that glue the only thing which holds the trim to the roof?

For those who have seen the roof from the inside after they removed the head liner - is there anything between the head liner and the plain steel roof sheet? I mean any sound insulation material?

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27 Jan 2019 13:24 #201840 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic headlining removal
Its not that hard to remove without damage, just take a bit more time and be careful.

Theres the side plastics and grab handles holding it up as well as some plastic clips here and there.

The glue is like a squiggle on the front and back flatter sections. There is nothing else in there apart from the glue. I put some sticky backed foam insulation in there (designed for wooden floors), which works a treat and was pretty cheap. Found there was no need to glue it back in place either.

The Dynamat type stuff is no doubt better.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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09 Feb 2019 06:25 #202849 by Bosanek
Replied by Bosanek on topic headlining removal
Thank you for the info.

Was there any original insulation between the headlining trim and the roof metal panels when you removed it?

What is (approximately) the maximum thickness of insulation padding which could fit in between without obstructing normal placement of the head lining trim back into its position?

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09 Feb 2019 06:51 #202850 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic headlining removal
There was no insulation in there apart from the headlining itself. There is plenty of space, maybe a 5mm thick product would fit easily enough in between and not cause any issues.

I used the space to fit a switch pod thing onto the roof for the lockers, lights, etc. plenty of space for the wiring to run down an A pillar and all not be seen or affect the shape of the headlining.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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