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Axle truss
- Paul4x4
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30 Dec 2012 08:53 #56577
by Paul4x4
You can drain the axle first, or you can let the oil in there to act as an coolant when you weld, and then drain it after you're done. But that doesn't matter which way you like to do it.
And don't do it on the underside, because you never have "plenty" of clearance, you have, well you just have what your tires provide, but NEVER plenty!
Axle truss was created by Paul4x4
Well, the axle housings are made out of about 3mm thick tube, but when you are welding trusses, the heat always bends the axle some(but when done correctly, it's so minor it doesn't matter). So you have to be extremely careful when you weld! Do only short welds about 2" long here and there, and let it cool down well between the welds. And basically the more you weld, the bigger the risk of bending the housing! And if it bends(you have to be able to measure it somehow before and after), you can still straighten it up by welding the same amount of weld to the opposite side of the housing, and then grind the welds off when it's straight again.MysticRich wrote: A few on here have fitted axle trusses or have welded to strengthen your axles.
I am considering doing this myself but was wondering what's involve as my welding skills are only basic.
Do I need to drain the axle ect.
How thick is the axle as i don't want to risk damaging it.
I was going to brace the underside as i have plenty of clearance and have plenty of flat bar to cut and shape to fit so no expensive involved.
You can drain the axle first, or you can let the oil in there to act as an coolant when you weld, and then drain it after you're done. But that doesn't matter which way you like to do it.
And don't do it on the underside, because you never have "plenty" of clearance, you have, well you just have what your tires provide, but NEVER plenty!

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- reaper
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30 Dec 2012 09:51 #56580
by reaper
Replied by reaper on topic Axle truss
Good advice from paul
Only thing i would add is that bracing the underside is actually a much better way as it will be alot more resistant to bending in use , the only reason most people brace the top is so not to lose any ground clearance
In reality top bracing adds much less strength than doing it on the bottom
Only thing i would add is that bracing the underside is actually a much better way as it will be alot more resistant to bending in use , the only reason most people brace the top is so not to lose any ground clearance
In reality top bracing adds much less strength than doing it on the bottom
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30 Dec 2012 17:22 - 30 Dec 2012 17:23 #56601
by dirtydogz
2002 JLX Soft Top
Jimnybits 2" lift +Pro Comp ES1000 shocks.
Big Jimny rear shock mounts. Big Jimny adjustable panhard rods.
Big Jimny steering damper bracket. Disco Armstrong steering damper. 7X15 black modulars. 205/75/15 Maxxis 743 bravo m/t.Superpro camber correction bushes.Black A bar....
Replied by dirtydogz on topic Axle truss
Have a look at this.
www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...now-locked?start=120
www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...now-locked?start=120
2002 JLX Soft Top

Jimnybits 2" lift +Pro Comp ES1000 shocks.

Big Jimny steering damper bracket. Disco Armstrong steering damper. 7X15 black modulars. 205/75/15 Maxxis 743 bravo m/t.Superpro camber correction bushes.Black A bar....
Last edit: 30 Dec 2012 17:23 by dirtydogz.
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- g187eev
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30 Dec 2012 18:02 #56610
by g187eev
Replied by g187eev on topic Axle truss
We do not recommend leaving the oil in axles whilst welding anything to them... not unless you want a flaming spray of fire in your face when it blows a hole in the casing, which isn't particularly hard to do.
RB
RB
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