Summit Machine Extra Large Flex Joint

www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/summit...arge-flex-joint.html

Wonder how much longer these would last than the rubber bushes? I have done 24,000km's and all my rubber bushes are stuffed + these would reduce binding big time and maybe increase flex to

Does any one know the hole ID of the middle link of the rear radius arms? And same for the front to?

I think if the OD of these cool joint's are slightly larger than the jimny bushs holes in the arm's i could get them bored out and run these on the middle link of each arm and really soft rubber bushes on all the other links.

Thought's?

My thoughts to anyone who wants REAL flex, and have some basic welding and fabricating skills, is to ditch the stock radius arms, and go for range rover front radius arms or similar. That's the only reasonable way to get the bushings last longer. And the chassis end of the arms won't restrict flex.

Stock Jimny arms are garbage in my opinion if you drive serious offroad...

Paul4x4 wrote: My thoughts to anyone who wants REAL flex, and have some basic welding and fabricating skills, is to ditch the stock radius arms, and go for range rover front radius arms or similar. That's the only reasonable way to get the bushings last longer. And the chassis end of the arms won't restrict flex.

Stock Jimny arms are garbage in my opinion if you drive serious offroad...

Lets see some pics!

Sam_ wrote: Lets see some pics!

I will show you some pics when I actually have something to show, lol!

I'm currently only at the stage of gathering all the parts together, but you WILL see how my little blue Jimny turns into "monster" with yota axles, 33" tires and range rover radius arms...

Paul4x4 wrote:

Sam_ wrote: Lets see some pics!

I will show you some pics when I actually have something to show, lol!

I'm currently only at the stage of gathering all the parts together, but you WILL see how my little blue Jimny turns into "monster" with yota axles, 33" tires and range rover radius arms...

Yota axles for 33's really? There a few sierra's that run 36's on suzi diffs with out issues and one jimny on 34's, with out to much hassle and these guy's drive hard. I am against big heavy diffs for road driven zooks, because you have straight up lost the advantage of having a suzuki (small diff's, light wight) but that's just me.

While rangie arm's are good, and won't have much (if any) binding, i would go to the extra effort of 3-link (2 lower's, one upper + panhard).

Also you say "basic welding and fabricating skills", this is a non-issue for me, as i'm a welder/fabricator by trade but the issue is the a mod like i would want to run it pass a engineer as it would be a mod that can not be reversed easily if Mr Plod make's me go over the pit's for un-engineered mods which is that last thing i want, also not a cheap excise any more due to new rule's

The main reason for me wanting to run these joint's is to reduce wear and tear on all the rubber bushes, a bit of flex will be gained if i run these joint's , as to how much? - i don't really care - that's what locker's are for

So can anyone actually answer my question about the holes sizes?

Monkey wrote: Yota axles for 33's really? There a few sierra's that run 36's on suzi diffs with out issues and one jimny on 34's, with out to much hassle and these guy's drive hard. I am against big heavy diffs for road driven zooks, because you have straight up lost the advantage of having a suzuki (small diff's, light wight) but that's just me.

While rangie arm's are good, and won't have much (if any) binding, i would go to the extra effort of 3-link (2 lower's, one upper + panhard).

Yeah, I want yota axles because of the reliability with full lockers over the stock axles, and I also like the added width. And, I can run 35" also with no problems if I want...

And even though the 3-link rear is nice, I'm too lazy to do all the additional work as I already have a perfectly good chassis end mount for the panhard, lol!

Don't know exactly what laws and rules you have in UK and Australia as I live in Finland, but it's legal here to swap in some better radius arms as long as they are from a heavier vehicle.

I need the strongest possible driveline and everything when I go to serious hardcore offroad mud safaris in Russia...

Sorry, won't mess with your thread anymore!

Paul4x4 wrote: My thoughts to anyone who wants REAL flex, and have some basic welding and fabricating skills, is to ditch the stock radius arms, and go for range rover front radius arms or similar. That's the only reasonable way to get the bushings last longer. And the chassis end of the arms won't restrict flex.

Stock Jimny arms are garbage in my opinion if you drive serious offroad...

ARGH! Thanks for putting the idea of range rover arms in my head Can't stop think about how there going to go.

I've already got measurement's for the rangie arms

Rangie arms are 762 mm (30") from the centre of the pin to the first axle end bolt. The two bolts are 165mm apart. (6.5")

The rubber bush fits perfectly inside 1.75" CDS Tube, .100" wall (That's 44mm OD X 2.54mm wall) and the tube needs to be 1" long.

I'm hoping i can plate over the hole's on the factory jimny radius arm mount's on the diif and re-drill the hole's to suit the rangie arm's. Then all i need to do is glue some bracket's onto the chassis and do up the bolt's

Monkey wrote: ARGH! Thanks for putting the idea of range rover arms in my head Can't stop think about how there going to go.

I've already got measurement's for the rangie arms

Rangie arms are 762 mm (30") from the centre of the pin to the first axle end bolt. The two bolts are 165mm apart. (6.5")

The rubber bush fits perfectly inside 1.75" CDS Tube, .100" wall (That's 44mm OD X 2.54mm wall) and the tube needs to be 1" long.

I'm hoping i can plate over the hole's on the factory jimny radius arm mount's on the diif and re-drill the hole's to suit the rangie arm's. Then all i need to do is glue some bracket's onto the chassis and do up the bolt's

Haha, I'm very sorry if I have caused you a headache, lol!

But it sounds like you already have a plan, so I would say go for it! It makes all the headache go away when you have those new arms bolted on, I promise!