Rear Spring Dislocation

Surely, if the shock were shorter then it would bottom out which I agree would stop the spring dislocating but would damage the shock. Shocks should not hit the end stops at either end of their travel.

Martin

You have 3" of spring + 1.5" of spring spacer = 4.5" of lift.

You have a 3" longer shock to standard and a Big Jimny bracket which extends the shock about 1.5" = 4.5".

So the theory is that the spring should go loose but not dislocate. At the rears you have a large cone at the top which stops it coming out at the top but the seat at the bottom is only shallow so it can get pulled out at the bottom if not still slightly compressed.

The shock is what limits the droop / downwards articulation, so it may get to it's stop when fully extended but you don't want to over compress them as that will cause damage, internal bump stop or not. I suspect you would have tyre hitting bodywork before the shock fully compresses though.

I think your immediate solution would be to take off the Big Jimny shock repositioning bracket to reduce the length of your shock by 1.5". That will hopefully be enough to keep the spring in place.

You will then have the issues of having to stop the shock from hitting the cross member / panhard rod at the rear. Spacing it out with large washers is possible as this is what I have done. The problem is solved with Castor Corrected rear arms and the need for the re-location bracket is possibly removed also.

When you look at the ORA lifts, they do include a rear spring clamp, whcih clamps the bottom of the spring to it's seat and the cone at the top acts like a dislocation cone and keeps the spring in place as the shocks are specified at a length to allow a small amount of dislocation.

You'll also notice that the kits include rear castor correction arms but no rear shock repositioning brackets. I asked Rob Butler about this and he stated they are not needed with the castor corrrection. It must put it back to factory positioning if you understand what I mean - turning the axle so the shock sits straight on the mounting bolt.

I am fortunate enough to know a man with a forklift. So I can test my suspension before I take it off road.

I have played with rear location brackets from several suppliers and with the shocks the length mine are I deemed them too long to use the brackets and feared what would happen to you woudl happen to me.

As such I plan to not deviate from kits / matched springs and shocks from suppliers now as they have doen the playing around to see what works and what doesn't to save me the mucking about.

Like I say though, I think your issue will be resolved simply by the removal of those brackets. If you buy shorter shocks in the future you could re-fit them.

Kirkynut

Crickey, I didn't realise the shock was fully collapsed in the picture. Without the bracket you'll be causing the shock to be 1.5" further open all the time meaning it has 1.5" more to go before it's fully closed and it will have 1.5" less to open which is hopefully enough to keep the spring in. Time will tell!

Kirkynut