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BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
BigJimnyMeet 2024
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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How to treat this corrosion?
- psybear
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02 Apr 2018 09:58 #191178
by psybear
How to treat this corrosion? was created by psybear
Hi all, pretty new here, finding loads of useful info.
My 2007 Jimny is pretty clean overall however there is a spreading patch of corrosion on the rear panel next to the driver's door. I removed a paint bubble there a couple of moths ago, scraped off the rust and loose paint, and painted over with touch-up. As expected though it's breaking through again. Used to be a product called Trustan that was great for killing rust like this but it's no longer available.
Any suggestions?
My 2007 Jimny is pretty clean overall however there is a spreading patch of corrosion on the rear panel next to the driver's door. I removed a paint bubble there a couple of moths ago, scraped off the rust and loose paint, and painted over with touch-up. As expected though it's breaking through again. Used to be a product called Trustan that was great for killing rust like this but it's no longer available.
Any suggestions?
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- Max Headroom
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- OPEN AIR MOTORING... 93 MILLION MILES OF HEADROOM
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02 Apr 2018 10:11 - 02 Apr 2018 10:53 #191180
by Max Headroom
IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Replied by Max Headroom on topic How to treat this corrosion?
There seem to be a good few articles here on rust - search "Rust"
I'm restoring a 1930s vintage car and use a product found easily on Amazon, called AQUASTEEL . Its used on awkward difficult/places where wet and salt are of a concern such as oil-rigs.
There is a NATO stock number for it as well, so it seems the military use it too, and for that it would have undergone a lot of trials
I've used it on rotten quality steel garage hinges and the rust has gone for good, as well as my 80 year old car that was simply a pile of rust and is now a gleaming chassis.
The beauty of it is that unlike an acid based product that needs rinsing with water (which to me seems a bit counter-productive) you simply brush this on and the rust turns blue/black and you can then paint directly onto it.
In five years of using this in various rust-situations I have not had rust return. I'd also like to point out that I am no fan of so-called ' rust conversion' products and would much prefer to grind out corrosion properly until any of the rust-worm cannot be seen even under a magnifying glass, then properly etch-prime and paint, however this is one product that I have been super-impressed with.
There are is a lot of support in the forums for a product called Buzzweld which interests me greatly too. I'd never heard of them before but they seem to have a good reputation here.
I'm restoring a 1930s vintage car and use a product found easily on Amazon, called AQUASTEEL . Its used on awkward difficult/places where wet and salt are of a concern such as oil-rigs.
There is a NATO stock number for it as well, so it seems the military use it too, and for that it would have undergone a lot of trials
I've used it on rotten quality steel garage hinges and the rust has gone for good, as well as my 80 year old car that was simply a pile of rust and is now a gleaming chassis.
The beauty of it is that unlike an acid based product that needs rinsing with water (which to me seems a bit counter-productive) you simply brush this on and the rust turns blue/black and you can then paint directly onto it.
In five years of using this in various rust-situations I have not had rust return. I'd also like to point out that I am no fan of so-called ' rust conversion' products and would much prefer to grind out corrosion properly until any of the rust-worm cannot be seen even under a magnifying glass, then properly etch-prime and paint, however this is one product that I have been super-impressed with.
There are is a lot of support in the forums for a product called Buzzweld which interests me greatly too. I'd never heard of them before but they seem to have a good reputation here.
IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 02 Apr 2018 10:53 by Max Headroom.
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02 Apr 2018 10:24 - 02 Apr 2018 10:30 #191182
by Scimike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
Replied by Scimike on topic How to treat this corrosion?u
You need to treat the area with a rust stabilising product or remove all the rust before you paint. Hammerite Kurust available from Halfords etc is a similar product to Aquasteel in that it converts the rust into a stable layer ready for painting. Machinemart do an acid based product (Clarke rust remover product 059930250) that removes the rust, but you don't have to wash with water after treatment which I also think defeats the object.
For that area the acid product would be my preference, the converters are good for hard to reach places or chassis etc.
You may need to remove the plastic side panel to get at all the rust, its likely its made it behind.
Once treated, prime and top coat as per the paint suppliers instructions.
For that area the acid product would be my preference, the converters are good for hard to reach places or chassis etc.
You may need to remove the plastic side panel to get at all the rust, its likely its made it behind.
Once treated, prime and top coat as per the paint suppliers instructions.
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
Last edit: 02 Apr 2018 10:30 by Scimike.
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- jackonlyjack
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02 Apr 2018 10:33 - 02 Apr 2018 10:34 #191184
by jackonlyjack
Replied by jackonlyjack on topic How to treat this corrosion?
Never seen one rust in this area
If it was mine i would find someone breaking one
And get a section cut out and get it welded in
If it was mine i would find someone breaking one
And get a section cut out and get it welded in
Last edit: 02 Apr 2018 10:34 by jackonlyjack.
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02 Apr 2018 11:03 #191187
by Jezz
It's been fettled just a tad.
Replied by Jezz on topic How to treat this corrosion?
Only times i've seen rust ther on cars, is if the doors badly adjusted and catching the panel or it's had a front end smack and pushed the door back into the panel.
It's been fettled just a tad.
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02 Apr 2018 13:17 #191192
by Riccy
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
Replied by Riccy on topic How to treat this corrosion?
Mine has a little bit of rust here. I think its caused by the seatbelt not going back in properly, then getting shut in the door (at least thats whats caused mine).
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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- Mraz
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02 Apr 2018 15:20 #191196
by Mraz
Replied by Mraz on topic How to treat this corrosion?
I had this thing on both sides and it is simple - it's a crack in metal, it needs to be welded and painted. Probably caused by vibrations and large flat surface area behind it, at least my "tinman" says so and I trust his oppinion - he had his workshop for the last 40+ years and saw this thing few times.
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