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Repair of stripped crankshaft pulley

31 Aug 2022 13:03 #244811 by Theoms
Hi All,

I am a new Jimny owner and need some advice!

I bought a 2001 jimny in great condition back in march. It was running really well for 3 months and then quickly started to lose power on hills and eventually refused to start. After being looked over by our local garage it was discovered that connection between the crankshaft and the crankshaft pulley had worn away and so crankshaft was unable to spin the pulley and cambelt etc. Pictures attached.
The garage have said that essentially it is a write-off and needs a whole new engine which I can't really afford.

I am reluctant to scrap the jimny as the rest of it is in great condition and had a lot of work done over the last year.

I am wondering if anyone had this problem before and has any advice? Specifically on whether it would be possible to rebuild the bottom half of the engine instead with a new crankshaft and pulley system instead of buying a whole new engine? And if it is within the realms of possibility for a novice to manage this with a fairly well stocked workshop and a workshop manual?
Thanks very much for any advice!

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31 Aug 2022 13:57 - 31 Aug 2022 14:12 #244813 by fordem
The flogged out crankshaft keyway is a fairly common problem on older G-series motors, but I don't think I've ever seen one as bad as yours - the most common cause is removal of the center bolt when replacing the timing belt and not torqueing it correctly on reassembly.  Loctite 660 can often be used to repair the crankshaft, but yours may be too badly damaged.

Yes, replacing the crankshaft & the pulley will fix the problem, if you can find a useable crankshaft at a reasonable price - I just happen to have one, but I'm in South America, and I suspect quite some distance from where you are.

Is it within the realms of possibility for a novice - that's a hard question to answer - I'm tempted to say NO, but it really depends on how much of a novice the novice really is.

First - it's an engine out job.

Second - the extent of the teardown involved means you're essentially going to be rebuilding the engine - you're going to be fitting new bearings (main & rod), there's no need to remove the pistons, but you're going to have the head off so you might as well check the bores and perhaps hone & re-ring whilst you have it apart.

As you can see, there IS a fair bit of work involved - but - on the other side of the equation, the G-series motors are simple and very easy to work on, they are "non-interference" (all except the DOHC version), perhaps ideal for a novice to learn on, but I would want that novice to have a more experienced person on hand to supervise & guide when necessary.


Last edit: 31 Aug 2022 14:12 by fordem. Reason: Additional information re Loctite 660

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12 Sep 2022 15:07 #244938 by Theoms
Thank you for all your help!

I think I will try and recruit some more experienced hands to help out if I give this a go.

I know it might be hard to tell from the photos, but I'm wondering if the marked engine casing around the crankshaft (I assume where the pulley sits) has also been damaged or worn away by the loose pulley? Of if that wear is normal to see on an old engine? I guess if the engine casing is also knackered then it really makes no sense to try this repair.

I think shipping to the UK from South America might be a stretch! Are there any places that you could recommend to find a decent crankshaft over here?


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12 Sep 2022 15:33 #244940 by fordem
The scoring around the crankshaft snout doesn't look too bad to me, and it's on the front of the oil pump rather than the crankcase or engine block, so it's replaceable separately.

I'd be tempted to try the Loctite 666 along with a new oil seal, key & pulley and see how it works out.

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13 Sep 2022 15:30 #244953 by Theoms
Fantastic thank you for all your help. I'll give the Loctite a go first and see how that works out. Cheers!

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15 Sep 2022 05:27 - 15 Sep 2022 05:29 #244969 by yakuza
This is a good excuse to swap the G13 for a G16 :) I would not spend many minutes on a G13 even for a service if I could get hold of a G16.

But this should be possible to mend in my opinion. Maybe even a bit of welding and filing to see if I could make the groove for the key a bit better. The wear on the oil pump would not worry me at all except the filings might be in the lip seal now so it must be changed.
And a new bolt for the new pulley. I would check and max out the torque if the threads in the shaft looks ok.
Check also all auxhiliarys and the excentric pulley that they they spin easy not straining the new pulley and fix.

The rest just as Fordem says above.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
Last edit: 15 Sep 2022 05:29 by yakuza.

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