BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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slack steering issue
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Garage got it on the ramps and said they couldn't track it as there was so much play in the steering
So my question is where to start looking? I have trailgear HD steering bars with new beefy rod ends, HD panard's and all the bushes (everywhere) are superpro. Wheel bearings are about 12 months old, kingpin bearings about 8 months.
Current thinking is its one of these:
1. steering box goosed,
2. wheel bearings,
3. Kingpins and/or bearings
Obviously the 31" tyres wont help as well as the green laning!
Riccy
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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- Daniel30
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Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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- Posts: 1936
- Thank you received: 554
- Points: 7523.00
This mornings job (to fix the coolant leak from when i swapped the engine and had water pump issues) involved removing the inlet manifold. Not related to this issue, but did mean i could see the steering column and move it and watch what the pitman arm on the steering box does.
Result is the pitman arm was moving even with the slightest movement on the steering. This leads me to think the steering box is ok. The adjustment is handy to know about tho.
Reading a bit in the service manual (cheers for that again Dan) points towards wheel bearings. Joy. My favourite
BTW, the garage had it back off the ramp and in the car park as soon as poss. I think they were scared of it! Also saying that the factory tracking settings wouldnt be any use, so they wouldnt know what to set it to. methinks they didnt want the job, or any come back. Theres only toe-in that can be adjusted anyway?
Riccy
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
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- CharlesS
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In the states I own a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with a 5.5" lift and 33" tires. The vehicle originally came with shims to adjust caster, but are no longer there; I installed fully adjustable upper and lower control arms with geometry brackets, and 1 ton steering. Some responses I get are: How do I adjust this, what is this or is this factory?
You definitely need to get an assistant to assist in troubleshooting what is loose or worn out.
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CharlesS wrote: Most alignment shops do not know how to work outside the bubble when it comes to lifted off road vehicles and alignments.
In the states I own a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with a 5.5" lift and 33" tires. The vehicle originally came with shims to adjust caster, but are no longer there; I installed fully adjustable upper and lower control arms with geometry brackets, and 1 ton steering. Some responses I get are: How do I adjust this, what is this or is this factory?
You definitely need to get an assistant to assist in troubleshooting what is loose or worn out.
Yeah it was a tyre spot who were not used to modified 4x4. even the more experienced place i normally use still take a few looks before doing anything
Jacking up and playing with the wheels gives a slight (and very slight) knock or rattle from the swivel, which points me towards wheel bearings
Ironically I used to have a lifted 88 SWB Jeep Cherokee when i lived in Nova Scotia. It was pretty good in the local sand quarry, but pants in snow or on highways! Also had a Subaru legacy which was the best 2.2 auto estate with skinny tyres would pull pickups out of snow & cruise all day long
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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My steering box has this slack/play. A lot of play in the middle, and tight in the ends at full left or right turn. Not much use trying to tighten the nut so i guess it is just worn out in the middle there... 100000km 2005 jimny. I have a spare so will be changing it one day..
Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
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Busta wrote: Unless you have very worn wheel bearings then the only thing affecting the tracking is the track rod, so why they couldn't do it is a bit of a mystery. Play in the drag link, panhard, steering box etc would make the steering vague and probably knock a bit, but it would have zero effect on their ability to set the tracking.
You were right Busta! solved it now hopefully. The wheel bearings were ok after all...
Got myself some spare complete swivels/hubs courtesy of the ever helpful James Priestly. When i had drilled the track rod holes out on the carriers for the larger trailgear steering bar track rod ends (beefy toyota LJ70 rod ends), i had drilled too much, making them a tiny bit loose. The spare swivels have been drilled correctly this time and all is well.
For peace of mind i have put new wheel bearings, kingpin bearings, seals, grease, etc in whilst it was all apart. Yet another lesson learnt with the modifying stuff!
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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- Posts: 1936
- Thank you received: 554
- Points: 7523.00
In January I replaced the swivels and sorted out the HD links properly. That did improve it, but has gotten steadily worse for a few months.
Last outing with the winch bitch having a drive, he was complaining that the steering was really vague.
Checkover last weekend and found all the radius arm bolts were slack. Tightened the life out of them with a 2ft breaker bar and what a difference now! Miles better, doesnt wander and is sharp prescise steering
Only problem is that now its all nice and tight, I get bad wobble from the unbalanced tyres (well they were balanced but somehow the weights have all gone ).
Balance beads are the way, but where do i get them from and how much weight is needed? (31x10.5r15 tyres, not remoulds).
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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