Considering wax oil treatment,

Yes.

Roger

Your's might be a one-off Roger?

As I said earlier, I am a pedantic sod and I don't like the colour of rust. Last year I removed the rear bumper, cleaned the small amount of dirt from the white painted body work and started coating it with bitumastic paint. There was no rust. I then painted the chassis rails and wheel-arch body- work. painted what I could see including the axle. I worked forward until I reached the "X" shaped crossmember. At this point I gave up because the thick coating of underseal was still in perfect condition. This year, weather permitting I will complete the painting because there is slight rusting on the front axle. I will be servicing Tonka from now on and that includes inspecting the body/chassis for rust. I realise that Suzuki will use this non sanctioned inspection to nullify any warrantee that may have applied but that does not bother me because the prevention is better than the cure.
The first SJ I nearly bought was covered in rust and corrosion because the owner regularly drove it in the North Sea in Northumberland ( I lived 20 miles north of Newcastle at the time ) and maybe the extreme rust on the earlier pictured example may have been due to similar treatment although that does not explain or excuse the lack of treatment on various parts.
Yes Soeley, I might have a good one. What they called in the sixties a "Thursday" car. Either that or the Gods of the Underseal smiled on me because I hadn't upset "you know who" lately.

Roger

I agree with Dr Robin and Busta that an undercoating job is a fairly extensive exercise if done properly.

I had Dinitrol done on the Jimny by a local one-man-show business.  He had the Jimny for three full days, and I had to wait a month just for an appointment.  He removed all the plastic exterior cladding and bumpers, masked off the working components of the chassis carefully -- and the chassis number stamping! -- cleaned and dried it, and got a nice even coating on.  He also removed the three door cards and got the interior door bottoms coated -- I can almost guarantee there is not adequate factory protection in that area.

Downsides: First, Dinitrol stinks for weeks, like a can of spray paint exploded in the car-- SWMBO will complain.  Second, the material takes some days to fully set up, especially in hot weather -- I ended up with some drips under one door when I parked in the hot sun before it had totally hardened.  Third, the cost, but IMO for a long-term owner it is worth it-- someone planning to sell the Jimny in a year or two should probably not bother though.

Dinitrol, done properly, is extremely hardy.  We have a lot of snow and associated road salt here on the high Baltic, plus a lot of unsealed roads in the countryside, and nobody here bothers with Waxoyl if that tells you anything about the relative merits of the two products.  Just my observation, others may have different results.

If you look at the post from Filipao concerning rear lamp protectors you get a good idea of the extensive underseal applied to the chassis rails. On Tonka, that finish covers the entire chassis rails.

Roger

Looks like it has been driven on roads covered in corrosive salt & grit, and then not carefully washed and dried to me.

A coat of lanoguard or clear dinitrol/waxoil would have prevented it.


 

Celebrating 4+yrs of JB74 [SZ5] ownership by confessing to be a Lanoguard Moto Grease convert/advocate.

Couple of ramps, a brush & pot of LMG a deeply satisfying way to spend 45 minutes under the Jimny.