BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
Click HERE for details
Suppliers/Dealers or anyone selling with a commercial view in mind CANNOT post here unless responding to a specific request of a member in a "wanted" post.
Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message
Suppliers or Members who have contributed to the forum can be identifed by the logo.
Car ramps
- Posts: 4706
- Thank you received: 260
- Points: 495.00
Normally these days I prefer to jack up the car then put the ramps under. But it suddenly came to me in a Eureka moment...........the reason that I nowadays fear using them is because I drive automatics.
Does anyone have similar experiences with getting an auto on to ramps?
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 8814
- Thank you received: 1761
- Points: 36277.00
- Posts: 3059
- Thank you received: 584
- Points: 3693.00
However, here is how I drive a car on that I can't jack up
First, either nail the ramps down, wedge against a kerb, or a couple of heavy pavers, or loop a strip of strong carpet/sack/mat through the second rung, so the weight of the car is on the carpet before it climbs keeping the ramp from being pushed away.
only use the handbrake to stop it if it is the front wheels, don't know about this new fangled ABS, but it is easy to lock a wheel and just push one ramp along on the cars I get on ramps.
With an auto, drag the handbrake so it is pulling all the time against the back wheels, the danger with an auto is as soon as it mounts the last rung, it gets a move on and whacks into the end stop, either thumping the ramp against the bottom of the car, or going over the top, you want it to have to keep pulling and stop dead when you lift your foot.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 311
- Thank you received: 96
- Points: 2221.00
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 4706
- Thank you received: 260
- Points: 495.00
facade wrote: Like you, I generally jack the car up and put them under
With an auto, drag the handbrake so it is pulling all the time against the back wheels, the danger with an auto is as soon as it mounts the last rung, you want it to have to keep pulling and stop dead when you lift your foot.
The problem is when the car is no longer climbing the little ramp hill.
I prefer working under a car when on ramps than on axle stands - but some jobs need the ability to turn the wheels though.
I have some steel ramps which have a hinged extender but it seems it is no help when driving up with an auto.
I us a spotter now but it doesn't seem to help me that much in terms of controlling the driving up on to the ramps.
I have not tried using the handbrake but don't feel I could cope.
I do like the plastic ramps a lot as they are so much lighter and if I can get the car jacked up I can slip them under. The trouble is with a non 4x4 the car is so low I can't get the jack under and my Ignis front crossmember is miles back from the front so I was forced to drive up the ramps. Arghhhhh:ohmy:
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- jackonlyjack
- Offline
- Platinum Member
-
Registered
- Posts: 2911
- Thank you received: 653
- Points: 8466.00
I just pop it in 4wd low and crawl up em
Also if I drive over/off them it will make no difference has my Jim is tall enough to handle the drop
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 311
- Thank you received: 96
- Points: 2221.00
- Posts: 3059
- Thank you received: 584
- Points: 3693.00
I had to buy one of those hockey pucks with a slot across it to go between the jack pad and the jacking point on the
If the car is too low, chuck a couple of wood planks down and drive it onto them to get the sills 1" or so higher up.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 4706
- Thank you received: 260
- Points: 495.00
- Posts: 4706
- Thank you received: 260
- Points: 495.00
facade wrote: On these "modern" cars, you are supposed to put the jack under the body jacking point as the subframes are made out of tissue paper thin metal.
I had to buy one of those hockey pucks with a slot across it t
If the car is too low, chuck a couple of wood planks down and drive it onto them to get the sills 1" or so higher up.
Regarding the front, he book says to use a trolley jack on the crossmember. That would be fine if
1) I (or rather the jack) could reach it.
2) I could get the jack underneath. My jacks are OK where the saddle is but too high at the pump.
Yes for side lift points I use a puck job with a slit in it but I also lift at points like where the shox attach.
Thing about using a plank is that often I want to jack up the car without starting and running it. As my Ignis is not my daily ride it is often still for a while and to fire it up to put it on planks is something I prefer not to do.
If I could find the clearance height of this 100% it might be the only way to go.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.