BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Internal and External cage.
- Smoggy
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This is all great news for strength but I am concerned about the weight and would still like to be able to fit some sort of rear shelf and my recovery box in the rear.
Has anyone out there with an external cage or internal and external linked cage tipped their jimny over as I am intrigued to know how it fared. Like most of you out there I am unlikely to roll the car over and over at high speed as I only do laning and the odd pay and play. Mind you as some of the guys on here will testify I do suffer from the old red mist and have a go attitude when off road
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- markyp2000
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He one had a guy who didnt belive it was upto strenth so while i was there with the owner he rolled it then the guy changed his mind and said it was upto the job lol
Theres so many cages out there its depend how deep ya pockets are but i would weld it to the chassis get a u plate made up that bolt through the chassis but then you have the problem of sealing the cage through the floor to the chassis
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- TomDK
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Smoggy wrote: A couple of weeks ago I went to my local fabrication guys. They made some cage suggestions for protecting me and my Jimny shell should I tip it over. They recommend linking a full 48mm external 6 point cage to an internal hoop with diagonal and 2x 45 degree stays again with diagonal (design like Renard's). The internal would pass through the floor and be welded directly to the chassis.
This is all great news for strength but I am concerned about the weight and would still like to be able to fit some sort of rear shelf and my recovery box in the rear.
Has anyone out there with an external cage or internal and external linked cage tipped their jimny over as I am intrigued to know how it fared. Like most of you out there I am unlikely to roll the car over and over at high speed as I only do laning and the odd pay and play. Mind you as some of the guys on here will testify I do suffer from the old red mist and have a go attitude when off road
As others and myself have written in others threads. RR looks a bit Agricultural. Don't know if looks are of any concern to you.
Lots of external rollcages are fitted 20-30 cm away from the body, which looks pretty silly if you ask me. Have also seen external cages with a much tighter fit, but not many of them, so don't know who makes these.
But The only cage that does what a cage is supposed to, protecting the driver, is an internal cage with diagonal tubing. I know that ORA are planning on doing an internal cage later this year. But perhaps Rob can give more info on this?
I'd try ORA first. Their designs are far superior to what RR makes.
You could also consider an OMP cage or the internal cage from KAP.
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- mudman
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- Smoggy
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- RichiesJimny
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- darthloachie
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You can see the guilty driver in the photo looking at what she had done!
What you have to remember is that this was a very, very slow plop on it's side. The cage did flex and just kiss the bodywork as there are witness marks on the paint. It flexed because it is just two loops going from the welded on rocksliders over the roof and down the other side, so it can pivot on the rocksliders as the tubing bends - which it would do as that's what metal does!
When the car came back on it's wheels - having been winched back using the cage to do so, it sprang back to it's original position bar the odd couple of mm.
If you put an internal hoop inside with a single cross bar in the centre that can be removable and that internal hoop is mounted to the chassis and both the internal and external cages are connected together by sandwich plates on the roof or whatever other clever means you may have, you will have a cage system that protects both you and the bodywork.
Cages are heavy though and Jimny's are not powerful machines.
So you have to make your choice with this all in mind.
If mine had gone all the way over would the external cage have pushed into the body and caused as much damage as if I hadn't got one - at that speed I doubt it.
I know that when I decided to get a cage I accepted it was for rubbing on trees to stop me caving the side of the car in on trees. I was told by it's maker that it was only strong enough for that purpose. The fact it did so well in the picture above is testament to his work.
Mine is linked to the roof by the original roof rail mounting studs, which I think to some extent kept it away from the body as the shell and cage moved together but they are only small studs so you can't expect too much out of them.
It's all a compromise and you just have to decide which way you want that compromise to go, make the choice and pay your money for it.
kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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- Smoggy
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3mm wall thickness but it is seamed given it's intended use as mentioned above.
kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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- ne-crock
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mount your spare on the cage with other bits and bobs and have a lockable chest in the back for laning~
if i had a couple of grand spare i'd hand my car to them and say build a copy
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- TomDK
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Smoggy wrote: Kirky what diameter is the tubing on your cage please?
If you want to do it right. You'll need to use CDS 48 mm tubing. Can't remember if it's 2 or 2,5 mm wall thinkness.
But Kirkynut is spot-on. It's all about what the intended use is. But I wouldn't settle for anything less than 48mm CDS tube for internal cage. Safety above all.
My point with some of the external cage is that many of them stick out in a way that makes the jimny almost as wide as a LR Defender. Which makes no sense to me with such a cage, as the small size and weight of the jimny is its greatest force
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