is it possible to get 2wd low ratio??

Paul4x4 wrote: Or, if you have an SJ t-box, you can have a twin stick shifter that makes it possible to use 2wd low.

You beat me to it.

Sorry Martin. I took that one hook line and sinker. I even rang local Suzuki dealer up to see if they had heard of it.

I,ll get my coat

Did you get my last pm re. O/a length of pipe and use of 4sockets,

Cider wrote: Hi
jo king did a write up on here how he done his, not sure how to pin up a link

used "2wd low" and seach "jo king" posts and found it Oh the post is over a year old so you`ll have to set your search to any date!!!!
Cheers

thats the sort of thing i was after thanking you

wanderinstar wrote: "Most vacuum equipped Jimnys run in 2WD low anyway"

If that is the case Martin, is it possible to convert to 2WD high? How would you know if your vehicle was running 2WD low


I presume you would not be towing your heavy trailer in the road. As I presume if you need 2wd low to tow it, then it must be VRRY heavy.. Be very careful of exceeding the vehicle towing weight.

it has the potential to be very heavy but only around the yard. probably wouldnt tow on the road with a jimny anyways could get scary!

I was thinking of another way of engaging 2WD-L.

What about disconnecting the vacuum pipes from the outputs of valves VSV1 and VSV2, and then blocking the exits of those valves?


In that case, whenever the car is shifted from 2WD into 4WD, the 4WD controller will be fooled that the vacuuming process has successfully completed (because the outputs of the valves are blocked and they will make vacuum locally) and the green 4WD light will be constantly lit.

After that just go one step more - shift into 4WD-L, which will in reality be 2WD-L, because the front wheel hubs have not been locked by the vacuum.
However, this will not be "pure" 2WD-L, as the front prop shaft will get connected to the transfer case. Therefore, while in 2WD-L, the front prop shaft and the front differential will spin while the vehicle is in motion, but they should have no load on them as they will not be transferring the momentum from the transfer box to anything.

Can something be broken / damaged if the vehicle is driven in this kind of virtual "2WD-L"?

Shifting back into regular 2WD mode would also be successful as the vehicle would think that it had successfully completed the inverse vacuuming process of the front hubs.

I think this guide was from Busta

Yeah of course. It's dead easy- the hardest bit is making sure you get the right wire.

1.Remove plastic trim around the handbrake (2 screws).

2.Under the carpet is a bundle of wires (loom) Locate small group of wires that splits from the bigger loom. It goes through a grommet in the floor, just behind the handbrake. The wire you want is in this group.

3.Peel back the loom insulation and locate a thick blue and black striped wire with red spots on it. (Be aware there are 2 blue and black wires but the one you want is thicker with red spots on it)

4.Cut the wire and connect the ends to a simple on/off toggle switch. I extended the wires by about 100mm and drilled a small hole in the plastic trim beside the handbrake to locate the switch.

5.Test it works with the engine running. Select 4wd the flick the switch. The 4wd on the dash should go off when the switch is off and come back on with the switch is on.

6. Put it all back together.

Now you have a switch that will control the engagement of the front hubs. By selecting 4Lo then flicking the switch your front hubs will disengage. The 4wd light on the dash will indicate if the hubs are engaged or not.

It helps if you can remember you fitted a 2wd low switch when you take the transfer box out and replace it and before you spend some time looking for broken wires because the 4wd light won't come on

Thank you very much for that guide.

So the custom-installed switch can be used while the vehicle is already in 4WD-H or 4WD-L mode? By toggling the switch while any of those two modes are already active, the vacuum system will be invoked to engage or disengage the front hubs?
I suppose that the front propeller shaft will still remain connected to the transfer box in 4WD and 4WD-L modes, no matter of the position of that switch? So the front prop shaft (and front diff) will rotate anyway, but they won't have any load when the switch is off?

Does this modification work both for older Jimnys with mechanically operated transfer box (stick-shift) and also for newer Jimnys with electrically operated transfer box (push-button)?

Has anyone tried this trick of installing a switch on the blue/black + red spots wire in a newer Jimny with electrical ("push button") transfer box?

Is it safe to apply in such a car?

wrote:

Has anyone tried this trick of installing a switch on the blue/black + red spots wire in a newer Jimny with electrical ("push button") transfer box?




 

i'm interested to know to.