2019 Jimny Rust Prevention

I'm planning on doing mine on the front lawn to prevent the mess. I'll update the forum with some photographs once complete

Thanks everyone for feedback, especially @DAGZOOK.
I will certainly put this on once circumstances allow. For now, I have to accept that my new 4 weeks old car is more rusty than 12yo old car.
Not sure why would Japanese engineers build it that way but I guess it is a compromise for having this kind of car

Hi,
I believe it's a compromise you make for owning a Japanese vehicle. Their government has increasingly strick inspection programs based on the age of a vehicle, for this reason most don't keep their vehicle beyond 10 years, many get rid sooner. Japanese engineering being very efficient just aims to make a vehicle that lasts at max 10 years, which is just about correct for rust holes to appear in most Suzuki's.
Of course just my nutty opinion

I also believe it's due to the fact that Japan don't have a need themselves to provide the ultimate rust proofing. The roads aren't salted in Japan (from what I've been led to believe).

Considering there's only one plant in Japan manufacturing these vehicles, I doubt they've got drastically different manufacturing processes for vehicles going to different countries. Probably a bit of a compromise!

After all the europeans are penalising them for the Gen.4 so why an earth would they go the extra mile for the Brussels lot

DAGZOOK

Thanks for this post it's really helpful. I'm getting my new 2020 silver sz5 man next week and this will be the first job.

I've got decent bodyshop thats only a few doors from me and they said they'll do it if I can supply the gear.

Could I just check before I order the materials

Do I use the buzzweld on just the previous black powdercoated bits?...is one aerosol enough?
How many 750ml areosol cans of Dynax UB or UC would I need to do the whole chassis?
Would one 750ml can of Dynax s-50 do all the cavities?
Should I do the arches while I'm there? would the Dynax UC work or a black stonechip paint?
Do the interiors of the doors and boot need doing?
Anything worth doing in the engine bay?

Ted

Ted Theodore Logan wrote: DAGZOOK

Thanks for this post it's really helpful. I'm getting my new 2020 silver sz5 man next week and this will be the first job.

I've got decent bodyshop thats only a few doors from me and they said they'll do it if I can supply the gear.

Could I just check before I order the materials

Do I use the buzzweld on just the previous black powdercoated bits?...is one aerosol enough?
How many 750ml areosol cans of Dynax UB or UC would I need to do the whole chassis?
Would one 750ml can of Dynax s-50 do all the cavities?
Should I do the arches while I'm there? would the Dynax UC work or a black stonechip paint?
Do the interiors of the doors and boot need doing?
Anything worth doing in the engine bay?

Ted

Hey Ted,

Congratulations on the new Jim!

1. Your OE powder coated black bits will need to be cleaned with a degreaser and a scotch brite pad. Just knock the shine off the factory finish. Buzzweld CIO sticks like s**t to a blanket, but preparation is still sensible.

2. UB or UC, your choice. I'd personally go with UB for the black parts and UC for the silver body work - it just looks neater.. no benefit in terms of protection.

3. I used 1 Tin of Buzzweld CIO, this was enough to do all of the power coated bits (2 coats). I used 1 tin of 750ml BH Dynax for the Powdercoated black bits. I'd recommend another 750ml Tin for the arches, sills, chassis rails etc.

4. I haven't done my chassis rails internally with S-50 yet, I've been super busy with work. But others have said 1 tin is enough as it goes a long way. (I bought two, just to be safe).

5. I don't plan on doing the doors with S-50, I don't think that's a prone rust spot for the Jim. You'd be better off just washing them out ever once in a while. The only other place I'd recommend targeting, is behind the front bumper grille (Chassis rails & front body panel). The bumper will need to come off for this so best to plan it when you've got a job to do in that area. The old gen.3 suffered from terrible rust behind the head lights and along the front slam panel. It takes a caning in the elements I'm not surprised!

It's always good to have some left over in the garage for future touch ups. Remember to apply the coats of Bilt H. UC or UB lightly and let them dry in between coats (this may be difficult if you're in a garage using their time and facilities). If you rush heavy coats of this stuff on it takes forever to dry, you'll end up with a sticky mess that attracts dirt and grime. One light even coat is better than a heavy rubbish coat. You can always top it up at a later date

Thanks for this DAGZOOK, it's much appreciated!!