CV joint replacement

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Changing the CV joint

Introduction

If you off-road a Jimny (or any of the Suzuki classic 4wd vehicles) then you may well end up changing a CV Joint. These are a weak point in the front axle and will break if you are heavy footed or have large tyres fitted.

It is also closely tied in with changing/working on the kingpin bearings so some of the steps are duplicated.

So what are the symptoms of worn/broken CV joints:

• Clicking when in 4WD when turning
• Banging and snatching of the steering wheel
• Loss of 4wd

CV joint information

Suzuki uses two different CV joints in the Jimny. One is straight forward to purchase on the parts market and the other is nearly impossible to source.

• Type 1: 6 balls, 26 external splines and 19 internal splines. - Easy to source (one I have is marked NTN 75LAC CT9U)
• Type 2: 8 balls, 26 external splines and 29 internal splines. - Difficult to source, 6 Ball Jakoparts J2828040 is supposed to fit. (possibly marked NTN EBJ82)

Note: I can get Type 1 for you, I just do not stock it as too many people bought the wrong one and wanted to return it.

Model	Balls	Inner Splines	Outer Splines	Outer Case Dia	Inner Case Dia	Shaft Dia
NTN BJ75LAC	6	19	26	91.6mm	72.6mm	19.0mm
NTN EBJ82	8	29	26	91.6mm	72.6mm	21.2mm

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Changing the CV joint

Tools

• Standard metric sockets and spanners
• Assorted screwdrivers
• Circlip pliers (External)
• An E10 Torx socket for the Vacuum Hub Bolts
• A ball joint splitter
• 1" Imperial Socket
• G-Clamp or brake piston retractor

The Video

Before you read the guide below you may wish to view the video of changing the Kingpin bearings. This shows most of the steps for a CV joint so is a useful reference.

Removing the Caliper and pads

Jimny Front Caliper

First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the brake caliper, this is the passenger side (nearside) caliper (UK)

Unbolting the caliper

Using a 12mm spanner, release the front caliper bolt (the left is the front of the car in this picture) and loosen the same bolt on the rear of the caliper.

Open brake caliper

The caliper then opens up using the rear bolt as a hinge.

Removing the brake pads

The pads are retained by small spring clips, a simple pull on the pads (horizontally away from the disk) should remove them (or gently prise out the pads with a small screwdriver - do not remove the spring clips). If you require new pads, spring clips or a caliper fitting kit then these are available in the BigJimny Store.

Removing the Brake Disc

Carrier bolt

The caliper is held on with two bolts at the rear (see below).

Caliper tied to Spring

Release the bolts and tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way.

Disc removal using bolt

Now the front brake disc can be removed. If you are lucky it will simply pull off but if you have problems then there are two M8 holes in the disk hub. Simply run two bolts into these holes and the disk will push off the hub. The picture below shows a bolt being used to push the disk off the hub.

My disk appeared to be ok on the visible side but the rear showed some bad wear so I will change them as part of this job. New disks are available in the BigJimny Store.

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Dismantling the Hub

Torx bolt on hub

Now the Freewheeling Hub needs to be removed. Suzuki have used Torx bolts to secure these so you will require an E10 socket to remove the bolts.

Removing the circlip

With the hub removed the driveshaft is exposed. The driveshaft is retained with a circlip so use a pair of circlip pliers to remove it. This is really fiddly and can be an annoying task. Behind the circlip is a rectangular washer that should also be removed. Note that I have also marked with white paint the orientation of the freewheeling hub, this is not strictly needed.

removing a vacuum pipe

Gently pull the two vacuum hoses for the hub from the knuckle making sure you note which one connects to each pipe. It is essential that you get this correct else the hub will not work again. Also note that if you have an ABS equipped vehicle then you will have to remove the sensor. I do not have photos of this but the video shows it. IT IS REALLY EASY TO SHEAR THE ABS BOLT - if you can I would soak it for a couple of days previously in penetrating oil.

Removing the swivel seal bolts

At the rear of the hub release the small bolts holding the seal and retainer. You can see that the swivel hub is covered in oil, a bad sign for KingPin problems.

Splitting the ball joint

Undo the nuts on the steering joints, if the joint rotates then put a jack under the joint and lift the car slightly to lock the joint. Using a splitter, split the steering joints (two to do on the passenger side and one on the drivers side – UK).

undoing the Kingpin bolts

Finally, release the KingPin bolts themselves. There are two sets, top and bottom and they must not be mixed up so you can see in the picture that I have marked them up with a letter T. If you are doing both sides at once then do not mix them across either!.
The KingPins are also held in with sticky sealant so you will need to prise them out. The hub will now pull off and the driveshaft can be removed. Depending on how broken the CV is the shaft may come out in two pieces.

The next stage is to CLEAN, CLEAN and then CLEAN again. Clean the swivels inside and out, clean the knuckles and make sure all broken CV parts are removed.

Removing the C-Clip

The CV Joint is held on the driveshaft by a hidden C-Clip. The only way to dismantle a whole CV Joint (yours may already be in bits if you have really broken it!) is to drive the joint off with a hammer. Clamp the driveshaft into a vice and, holding the joint VERY straight, hit the cup with a hammer and drive it off.

New CV Joint

Now put the new C-clip onto the shaft and tap the new joint into place.

Re-assembly

This is basically the reverse process. You may wish to change the kingpin bearings and oil seals at this point if you wish.

If you are changing the large seal then now is the time to put the new one on. The confusing part is the order of the seals and rings on the swivel, the picture below is of the correct orientation, note also that the slits in the retainers go to the top.

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The greased CV joint

Pack the CV with grease (but do not overpack) and re-fit the driveshaft. A suitable waterproof grease is available in the BigJimny Shop.

Applying sealant

Grease the new KingPin bearings and insert the top one in the carrier. I find the easiest way to grease the bearings is to put them in a polythene bag with some grease and use thebag to squeeze the grease into the bearing, this can be seen in the video. (picture needed here) .Carefully insert the new bottom bearing and, holding it in place, slide the whole knuckle onto the hub. Fill the Knuckle with 100ml of grease, Suzuki recommend only 100ml and not to overfill. Now the KingPins need to be inserted, but first they need a bead of sealant around the KingPin. Again the BigJimny shop sells suitable sealant.
Make sure that you have put the correct Kingpin in place, remember you should have marked them when you dismantled it!

Bolt the Kingpins in and tighten them to the correct torque (18ft/lbs)

Refit the steering arm (or arms if it is the side with two connections), tightening the nuts to 31ft/lbs

Fit the disk and fit the caliper (Caliper bolts 61ft/lbs), brake pads and bolt the caliper down in position (Caliper pin bolt 16/ft/lbs)

Re-fit the wheel and lower the vehicle.

Torque Settings

Full details of the torque settings can be found in the reference data

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Page last edited on 6/08/2016 by user Mlines