Latest revision as of 19:32, 3 February 2017

Rear Wheel Bearings

Introduction

The Rear Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. The drum brake backing plate is supposed to provide protection for the bearing but it is very poor and you can expect the bearing to fail VERY regularly. Providing you have the correct tools it can be straight forward task.

So what are the symptoms of worn Rear Wheel bearings:

Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
Oil/Grease leaking from rear of drum
Wheel falling off (yes, really, comes out complete with driveshaft!)

Typical symptom of failure

Click on images to make them larger

Changing the bearings

Tools

Standard metric sockets and spanners
Assorted screwdrivers
Slide Hammer
Angle Grinder
Bearing Press

YOU NEED ACCESS TO A PRESS

Bearing kits

You will need a suitable bearing kit for your car. Two kits are available, one for ABS and one for non-ABS cars.

The non-ABS kit has a plain retainer ring. This kit is available from a number of suppliers including the BigJimny Store. I have sold a number of different kits over the years and found the quality of the retainer ring varies with some cheap kits being very poor quality.

Non-ABS Bearing kit

The ABS kit has a retainer ring with an ABS ring installed. The fitment of the kit is the same as the standard one but note that the ABS retainer is much larger overall if you were considering using the cheaper non-ABS kit. Some kits have a retainer ring with the ABS ring whilst other have the ring as an integral part.

Old retainer ring

Full ABS retainer

Removing the hub

Jimny Rear Drum

First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the brake drum, this has a spacer fitted to it. With all the wheel bolts removed AND THE HANDBRAKE OFF the drum can be pulled forward and off the hub.

Using bolts to remove drum

If the drum is stuck then first of all check that the handbrake is off then insert two small bolts in the holes in the face of the drum. Reach around the back and feel near the top for a rubber bung. Remove the rubber bung and insert a flat bladed screwdriver. Angle the screwdriver so that the blade is pointing to the back of the car and the handle towards the front, you should be able to feel the adjuster wheel. Using the screwdriver turn the adjuster downwards a few clicks. Then gradually tighten the bolts you inserted in the front, the drum should come off.

Drum removed

With the drum removed the brake shoes can be seen (covered in mud in this case!). As the hub has to come off to change the bearings you need to remove the brake assembly.

Removing the shoes

Lower spring

Use a small pair of pliers and remove the small spring that connects across the base of the brake shoes.

Adjuster Spring

Use a pair of molegrips to remove the strong spring that joins the top of the shoes with the adjuster. Make a careful note of how the adjuster is fitted, the rod has a forked end and on part of the fork has a step in it. Make careful note of how this fork is fitted.

Shoe retainer

Use a pair of pliers and twist the end of the shoe retaining pin until the spring clip it released

Shoe removal

Now the shoes will lift away. Take care not to loose the little adjuster arm and its small spring.

Handbrake cable

Release the end of the handbrake cable from the arm on the shoe.

Handbrake cable retainer

The handbrake cable is held into the brake backing plate by an expanding spring clip around the cable. The clip needs to be squeezed so the cable can be pulled out complete with the clip. This is not easy to do but will come out with persistence.

NO PICTURE. You then need to remove the brake pipes from the cylinder. Undo the pipes and catch the drips of brake fluid. There is one pipe if you are doing the passenger side and two pipes if you are doing the drivers side.

Removing the Hub

Backplate bolts

The hub is retained by four bolts on the rear.

PICTURE REQUIRED The hub can now be removed. The unit is a friction fit into the axle casing. Attach a slide hammer to the hub and pull it out by using the slide hammer action. Alternatively refit the wheel or old wheel or brake drum (backwards) and hit the hub from behind to drive it off.

Rear axle oil seal

With the hub pulled you can then see the oil seal and oil splash protector in the axle. Hook the old seal out, clean up the axle and push the new seal supplied with the kit into place.

Removing the Bearing

Bearing retainer

The old bearing is held in place by a retainer ring which needs cutting off.

Cutting the Bearing retainer

The best way seems to be to cut it away with an angle grinder. I do not know of anyone who has removed it in a different way.

Stuck inner race

With the retainer cut away you should be able to remove the remains of the bearing. As you can see in the picture, my bearing had collapsed and left the inner race on the axle .

Collapsed bearing

The damage to mine is clear!

New bearing

This is what a new bearing should look like. Note that it has a built in "spacer" on one edge, this should be to the OUTSIDE of the hub/wheel. New bearing kits are available in the BigJimny store. There is also a special kit for ABS equipped cars

Re-assembly

This section needs completing but essentially it is a reverse procedure of above.

Difference between revisions of "Martins Test"

Latest revision as of 19:32, 3 February 2017

Contents

Rear Wheel Bearings

Introduction

Changing the bearings

Tools

Bearing kits

Removing the hub

Removing the shoes

Removing the Hub

Removing the Bearing

Re-assembly

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@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-== Arms and Bushes ==
+= Rear Wheel Bearings =
+== Introduction ==
-The Leading/Trailing Arms (or Radius Arms) on a Jimny are prone to off-roading or accident damage whilst the bushes are prone to wear. The arms also control the castor angle of the front axle and the diff angle of the rear axle. This section covers the changing of the arms, bushes and repair of general damage.
+The Rear Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. The drum brake backing plate is supposed to provide protection for the bearing but it is very poor and you can expect the bearing to fail VERY regularly. Providing you have the correct tools it can be  straight forward task.
-=== Typical Damage ===
-==== Damaged Arms ====
-My arms had suffered from a number of years of off-roading, they were also fitted with correction bushes which are good for a 2 inch lift but not really ok for the 3 inch lift I have got fitted.
-The arms on mine were nicely bent when compared to the edge of my yellow spirit level.....
-[[image:Bent_arm.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bent Leading Arm]]
+So what are the symptoms of worn Rear Wheel bearings:
-<br clear=all>
+* Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
-Therefore I decided to replace the arms and cure the castor correction issues at the same time. A number of places do suitable replacement arms, be very careful about what arms you buy as the quality varies and any failure of the arm is very dangerous. The process for installation of fronts and rears is basically the same.
+* Oil/Grease leaking from rear of drum
+* Wheel falling off (yes, really, comes out complete with driveshaft!)
-==== Damaged Bushes ====
-Worn bushes can be a source of "[[Death_Wobble|Death Wobble]]". Here bushes themselves are splitting. Whilst they had not completely failed they were not in good health. You can see where the screwdriver can open up the split in the pictures below:
-[[image:Damaged_Bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Damaged Bush]]
+[[File:oilleaks1.jpg |thumb|left|250px|Typical symptom of failure]]{{note|Click on images to make them larger}}
 <br clear=all>
-==== Damaged Mounts ====
+----
-The mounting points for the arms are really weak and thin. They can wear out in an "oval" fashion that results in a strange "clunk" noise when letting the clutch up. In the worst case the mount can corrode through and rip away from the axle, this is becoming increasingly common as Jimnys get older.
+== Changing the bearings ==
+=== Tools ===
-[[image:Worn_mount.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Worn Axle Mount]]
+{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>Slide Hammer</li><li>Angle Grinder</li><li>Bearing Press</li></ul>
+<br>
+}}
 <br clear=all>
+{{warning|YOU NEED ACCESS TO A PRESS}}
-[[image:Good_mount.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Good Axle Mount]]
-<br clear=all>
-[[image:Broken_mount1.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Broken Axle Mount]]
-This is the same part as shown in the previous pictures except it is completely ripped off and gone!
 <br clear=all>
+== Bearing kits ==
-=== Castor Correction ===
+You will need a suitable bearing kit for your car. Two kits are available, one for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-abs-suzuki-jimny.html ABS] and one for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny.html non-ABS cars].
-If you are performing a lift then you may have heard about castor correction. The process of a spring lift (NOT a body lift) moves the position and angle of the axle slightly. This shows itself in the steering by making the steering feel loose and also reduces its ability to self centre. You can test this by steering in a gentle circle and then letting go of the steering wheel. A properly corrected Jimny will straighten up on its own whilst an uncorrected one will keep turning.
-There are a number of ways of correcting the castor.
-==== Correction Arms ====
+The non-ABS kit has a plain retainer ring. This kit is available from a number of suppliers including the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/jimny-parts/service-items-and-parts/bearings-and-seals.html BigJimny Store]. I have sold a number of different kits over the years and found the quality of the retainer ring varies with some cheap kits being very poor quality.
-The picture shows the arms for the front along with a free bush insertion tool with the ones I purchased.
+[[File:Rear_Wheel_Bearing_Kit.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Non-ABS Bearing kit]]
-[[image:Corrected_Arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Corrected arms]]
-These arms are made with the adjustment built in therefore they should be fitted with STANDARD bushes. They are typically available for 3 inch or 4 inch lifts. Most people feel that 2 inch lifts do not need correction. If you are buying aftermarket arms make sure they provide for vacuum piping, handbrake cables and ABS cables.
 <br clear=all>
-==== Correction Bushes ====
-These work by off-setting the centre of the mount to achieve the correction. They are popular because of the price however they are probably best for small lifts (2 inches up to possibly 3 inches at a push) because the off-set required to give a larger lift means there is little to no rubber on one side of the bush which really affects its performance and ride).
+The ABS kit has a retainer ring with an ABS ring installed. The fitment of the kit is the same as the standard one but note that the ABS retainer is much larger overall if you were considering using the cheaper non-ABS kit. Some kits have a retainer ring with the ABS ring whilst other have the ring as an integral part.
-[[image:Correction_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Correction Bushes]]
+[[File:Old_retainer.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Old retainer ring]]
 <br clear=all>
-[[image:Correction_bushes2.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Correction Bushes]]
+[[File:ABS_retainer.JPG|thumb|left|250px|Full ABS retainer]]
 <br clear=all>
-== Standard Bushes ==
+=== Removing the hub ===
+[[File:Rear drum.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Jimny Rear Drum]]
+First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the [[Wikipedia:brake drum | brake drum]], this has a spacer fitted to it. With all the wheel bolts removed '''AND THE HANDBRAKE OFF''' the drum can be pulled forward and off the hub.
+<br clear=all>
+[[File:Drum_removal.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Using bolts to remove drum]]
+If the drum is stuck then first of all check that the handbrake is off then insert two small bolts in the holes in the face of the drum. Reach around the back and feel near the top for a rubber bung. Remove the rubber bung and insert a flat bladed screwdriver. Angle the screwdriver so that the blade is pointing to the back of the car and the handle towards the front, you should be able to feel the adjuster wheel. Using the screwdriver turn the adjuster downwards a few clicks. Then gradually tighten the bolts you inserted in the front, the drum should come off.
+<br clear=all>
-A number of standard bushes are available.
+[[File:Rear_brake_shoes.jpg ‎|thumb|left|250px|Drum removed]]
+With the drum removed the brake shoes can be seen (covered in mud in this case!). As the hub has to come off to change the bearings you need to remove the brake assembly.
-[[image:Arm_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Selection of Bushes]]
 <br clear=all>
+=== Removing the shoes ===
-The parts are ALL available by contacting the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/jimny-parts/service-items-and-parts/bushes-steering-wheels-axles.html BigJimny store] via phone or email (these are not stock items so are not shown directly in the store)
+[[File:Shoes_lower_spring.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Lower spring]]
+Use a small pair of pliers and remove the small spring that connects across the base of the brake shoes.
+<br clear=all>
-* ADK 88008 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
+[[File:Shoes_adjuster_spring_2.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Adjuster Spring]]
-* ADK 88007 - Body end bushes (Two required)
+Use a pair of molegrips to remove the strong spring that joins the top of the shoes with the adjuster. Make a careful note of how the adjuster is fitted, the rod has a forked end and on part of the fork has a step in it. Make careful note of how this fork is fitted.
+<br clear=all>
-If you are doing the back then the part numbers are:
+[[File:Shoes_retainer_clip.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Shoe retainer]]
+Use a pair of pliers and twist the end of the shoe retaining pin until the spring clip it released
-* ADK 88006 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
+<br clear=all>
-* ADK 88007 - Body end bushes (Two required)
-You could also buy the Suzuki ones if you want the original parts, the part numbers for the front are:
-* 46282-81A1 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
-* 46213-65D01 - Body end bushes (Two required)
-And the rear are:
-* 46282-81A00 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
+[[File:Shoe_assembly_removal.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Shoe removal]]
-* 46213-65D01 - Body end bushes (Two required) (See Note)
+Now the shoes will lift away. Take care not to loose the little adjuster arm and its small spring.
-NOTE: Suzuki have identified that the 46213-65D series of bushes can cause [[Death_Wobble |Death Wobble]] a kit to replace these exists [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/suzuki-jimny-wobble-kit.html Wobble Kit]
-A number of after-market suppliers also supply replacement bushes. These are commonly called "Poly-Bush" style and usually come in the form of a split bush which can be more easily inserted in the arms. For example here are some from [http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/jimny/radius-arm-to-axle-bushes-bits4vits/prod_1010.html Dave at Bits4Vits]
-[[image:B4v-jimBshRAA.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bits4Vits bushes]]
 <br clear=all>
+[[File:Handbrake_cable.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Handbrake cable]]
-If you are going to the trouble of putting on new arms you really ought to put in new bushes as they do wear and they are difficult to press out of the old arms anyway.
+Release the end of the handbrake cable from the arm on the shoe.
-== Replacing the Bushes and Arms ==
-=== Tools ===
-{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>Access to a press (Desirable)</li><li> Tools to cut away old bush - see text </li></ul>
-<br>
-}}
 <br clear=all>
-=== Removing the arms/bushes ===
+[[File:Brake_cable_retainer.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Handbrake cable retainer]]
-The first activity is to remove the old arms. You need to jack up the car and remove the front wheel. I assume you can do that so have not included it here. PLEASE NOTE: You will have to jack up the car '''WITHOUT''' using the axle or leading arm as a jacking point, you need the axle to be free to be unbolted from the arm.
+The handbrake cable is held into the brake backing plate by an expanding spring clip around the cable. The clip needs to be squeezed so the cable can be pulled out complete with the clip. This is not easy to do but will come out with persistence.
-The arm is secured with three bolts, one at the back and two at the front. You may have to cut the old bolts off as they could be rusted on.
-[[image:Arm_bolts.jpg|250px|thumb|left|The bolts securing the arms]]
 <br clear=all>
-Those of you with older Jimnys may have the vacuum tubes for the locking hubs routed down the arms. If you are putting new aftermarket arms make sure that they have made provision for the vacuum tubes (front) or handbrake cables/ABS cables (rear). A lot of cheaper replacement arms forget these fundamental items.
+NO PICTURE.
+You then need to remove the brake pipes from the cylinder. Undo the pipes and catch the drips of brake fluid. There is one pipe if you are doing the passenger side and two pipes if you are doing the drivers side.
-[[image:Cables_along_the_arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Cables along the arms]]
 <br clear=all>
-As the axle will be hanging free make sure it is secured in position to stop it moving too far otherwise bolting in back up may give issues.
+=== Removing the Hub ===
-[[image:Axle.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Secured Axle]]
+[[File:Backplate_bolts.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Backplate bolts]]
+The hub is retained by four bolts on the rear.
 <br clear=all>
-If you are putting new bushes into old arms then you need to remove the bushes. There are two ways to remove the bushes. The first is to press them out with a hydraulic press. This is the method I went for. I went to the local garage and they pushed them out for beer money. However people started to leave the workshop when gauge on the press went through 35 tonnes!. They final moved at 38 tonnes with an extremely loud bang.
-Another way to remove them is to cut out the centre rubber section and then carefully saw two thin cuts in the remaining steel sleeve. This is the method Brian from the forum used and sent in these pictures.
-With the arms secured in a vice, you can drill out a lot of the rubber
+PICTURE REQUIRED
+The hub can now be removed. The unit is a friction fit into the axle casing. Attach a slide hammer to the hub and pull it out by using the slide hammer action. Alternatively refit the wheel or old wheel or brake drum (backwards) and hit the hub from behind to drive it off.
-[[image:Removing_the_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Secured in the vice]]
 <br clear=all>
-[[image:Drilling_out_the_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Drilled out rubber]]
+[[File:Rear_axle_oil_seal.jpg ‎|thumb|250px|left|Rear axle oil seal]]
+With the hub pulled you can then see the oil seal and oil splash protector in the axle. Hook the old seal out, clean up the axle and push the new seal supplied with the kit into place.
 <br clear=all>
-Then you can burn the rest of the rubber out
+=== Removing the Bearing ===
-[[image:Burning_out_the_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Burning out the rubber]]
+[[File:Bearing retainer.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Bearing retainer]]
+The old bearing is held in place by a retainer ring which needs cutting off.
 <br clear=all>
-Finally cut the steel ring that is stuck in the arm with a hacksaw and chisel out the remains.
+[[File:Cut_bearing_retainer.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Cutting the Bearing retainer]]
+The best way seems to be to cut it away with an angle grinder. I do not know of anyone who has removed it in a different way.
-=== Installing the arms/bushes ===
-There are two ways of installing the new bushes that depends on the bushes you have. If you have the steel cased bushes then these will need pressing in with a press. I have played about with trying to "wind" the new ones in with a piece of threaded rod but this was not successful. For the Poly-bush or split style bushes you can press these in with a large engineering vice or even by hand (split bushes)
-==== Split/Polybush installation ====
-==== Steel Cased bush installation ====
-As previously stated, the steel cased bushes need to be pressed in. You should be able to find a local garage or engineering shop prepared to press them in for a small consideration. However, as I have worn a bit thin my welcome at my local garages with pressing in wheel bearings I decided to splash out on my own press. I am glad I did because of the time it took to press in the six bushes would have definitely seem me less than welcome at the garage.
-The picture below show the principle behind pressing in the bush. My arms came with a press tool. The outer ring from the tool is placed over the hole and the bush is dropped in (with a smear of copper grease to help everything along)
-[[image:Press_tool.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Press tool in position]]
-<br clear=all>
-Then the centre part of the tool is placed on top of the bush and the pressure is applied using the press, driving the bush into the arm.
-[[image:Pressing_in_bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Pressing in the bush]]
 <br clear=all>
-Resulting in a bush neatly pressed into the arm.
-[[image:Finished_bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Completed bush]]
+[[File:Stuck inner race.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Stuck inner race]]
+With the retainer cut away you should be able to remove the remains of the bearing. As you can see in the picture, my bearing had collapsed and left the inner race on the axle .
 <br clear=all>
-However, it did not all go as smoothly as this for all the bushes. Whilst the outer part of the tool is a good fit, the inner part is right on the edge between sitting on the lip of the bush and dropping into the inner part where the rubber is. It is just a fraction too small. This applies to both ADK and Suzuki bushes.
-The problem is slightly worse on the body end bushes as these are longer and stand proud of the tool. This means the tool/bush can move off of "straight" and result in damage to the bush. I had to clean up the damaged bush with a file to get rid of the edges that stood proud and would stop the bush fitting. Note also that really cheap aftermarket bushes (such as some I have seen from Eastern Europe suppliers) do not have any chamfering on the edge of the bush which also makes fitting more difficult.
-[[image:Damaged_pressed_bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bush damaged in press]]
-<br clear=all>
-The cure to this for the longer bushes was to stop using the tool and simply use a large flat surface to press on top of the bush. The pressing surface has to have a hole in it to allow the bush centre to stand proud, an old flange from my SJ did the trick. I also created a very light chamfer on the edge of the arm with a file to "point" the bush in the correct direction. The first picture shows the chamfer....
-[[image:Chamfering_edges.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Chamfering the edges]]
+[[File:Collapsed bearing.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Collapsed bearing]]
-<br clear=all>
+The damage to mine is clear!
-Then the SJ flange pushed the bush in fair and square.
-[[image:Using_old_flange.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Pressing in with flange]]
-<br clear=all>
-So I ended up with a smart pair of arms complete with bushes....
-[[image:Completed_arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Completed Arms]]
 <br clear=all>
-=== Re-fitting the arms ===
+[[File:New rear bearing.jpg|thumb|250px|left|New bearing]]
-The next challenge is to fit the arms back onto the car. Because mine is a full rebuild, everything has been off the car and hence has "moved". If you were doing this as an upgrade your more likely to remove one arm at a time, keeping most parts in line. I had to line everything up to get the bolts in. I replaced all the bolts etc whilst I was doing this task. New bolts are available from the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/radius-arm-bolt.html BigJimny Store].
+This is what a new bearing should look like. Note that it has a built in "spacer" on one edge, this should be to the OUTSIDE of the hub/wheel.
+New bearing kits are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny.html BigJimny store]. There is also a special kit for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-abs-suzuki-jimny.html  ABS equipped cars]
-I would recommend that you hang the arm from the body end first...
-[[image:Body_end_bolt.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Body end bolted up]]
 <br clear=all>
-With the rear of the arm attached I then offered up the front arms to the mounting point on the axle. This was a long way off so I used a Jack to lift the arm into position and then a lever (ok - I admit it - a large screwdriver!) to move it all around until the bolts fitted. Just a further word on the bolts/nuts. They can be fitted through in either direction but if they are too long or fitted the wrong way around (which is possible if you have removed the shock absorber) then you will find they foul on the shock absorber. Play about with the bolt arrangements BEFORE tightening them or you may have to take them out again, guess how I learnt that!
-[[image:Axle_end_bolts.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Axle end bolted up]]
-<br clear=all>
+=== Re-assembly ===
-# The bolts should be tightened to 90Nm or 65 lb-ft.
+This section needs completing but essentially it is a reverse procedure of above.