Latest revision as of 19:32, 3 February 2017

Rear Wheel Bearings

Introduction

The Rear Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. The drum brake backing plate is supposed to provide protection for the bearing but it is very poor and you can expect the bearing to fail VERY regularly. Providing you have the correct tools it can be straight forward task.

So what are the symptoms of worn Rear Wheel bearings:

Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
Oil/Grease leaking from rear of drum
Wheel falling off (yes, really, comes out complete with driveshaft!)

Typical symptom of failure

Click on images to make them larger

Changing the bearings

Tools

Standard metric sockets and spanners
Assorted screwdrivers
Slide Hammer
Angle Grinder
Bearing Press

YOU NEED ACCESS TO A PRESS

Bearing kits

You will need a suitable bearing kit for your car. Two kits are available, one for ABS and one for non-ABS cars.

The non-ABS kit has a plain retainer ring. This kit is available from a number of suppliers including the BigJimny Store. I have sold a number of different kits over the years and found the quality of the retainer ring varies with some cheap kits being very poor quality.

Non-ABS Bearing kit

The ABS kit has a retainer ring with an ABS ring installed. The fitment of the kit is the same as the standard one but note that the ABS retainer is much larger overall if you were considering using the cheaper non-ABS kit. Some kits have a retainer ring with the ABS ring whilst other have the ring as an integral part.

Old retainer ring

Full ABS retainer

Removing the hub

Jimny Rear Drum

First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the brake drum, this has a spacer fitted to it. With all the wheel bolts removed AND THE HANDBRAKE OFF the drum can be pulled forward and off the hub.

Using bolts to remove drum

If the drum is stuck then first of all check that the handbrake is off then insert two small bolts in the holes in the face of the drum. Reach around the back and feel near the top for a rubber bung. Remove the rubber bung and insert a flat bladed screwdriver. Angle the screwdriver so that the blade is pointing to the back of the car and the handle towards the front, you should be able to feel the adjuster wheel. Using the screwdriver turn the adjuster downwards a few clicks. Then gradually tighten the bolts you inserted in the front, the drum should come off.

Drum removed

With the drum removed the brake shoes can be seen (covered in mud in this case!). As the hub has to come off to change the bearings you need to remove the brake assembly.

Removing the shoes

Lower spring

Use a small pair of pliers and remove the small spring that connects across the base of the brake shoes.

Adjuster Spring

Use a pair of molegrips to remove the strong spring that joins the top of the shoes with the adjuster. Make a careful note of how the adjuster is fitted, the rod has a forked end and on part of the fork has a step in it. Make careful note of how this fork is fitted.

Shoe retainer

Use a pair of pliers and twist the end of the shoe retaining pin until the spring clip it released

Shoe removal

Now the shoes will lift away. Take care not to loose the little adjuster arm and its small spring.

Handbrake cable

Release the end of the handbrake cable from the arm on the shoe.

Handbrake cable retainer

The handbrake cable is held into the brake backing plate by an expanding spring clip around the cable. The clip needs to be squeezed so the cable can be pulled out complete with the clip. This is not easy to do but will come out with persistence.

NO PICTURE. You then need to remove the brake pipes from the cylinder. Undo the pipes and catch the drips of brake fluid. There is one pipe if you are doing the passenger side and two pipes if you are doing the drivers side.

Removing the Hub

Backplate bolts

The hub is retained by four bolts on the rear.

PICTURE REQUIRED The hub can now be removed. The unit is a friction fit into the axle casing. Attach a slide hammer to the hub and pull it out by using the slide hammer action. Alternatively refit the wheel or old wheel or brake drum (backwards) and hit the hub from behind to drive it off.

Rear axle oil seal

With the hub pulled you can then see the oil seal and oil splash protector in the axle. Hook the old seal out, clean up the axle and push the new seal supplied with the kit into place.

Removing the Bearing

Bearing retainer

The old bearing is held in place by a retainer ring which needs cutting off.

Cutting the Bearing retainer

The best way seems to be to cut it away with an angle grinder. I do not know of anyone who has removed it in a different way.

Stuck inner race

With the retainer cut away you should be able to remove the remains of the bearing. As you can see in the picture, my bearing had collapsed and left the inner race on the axle .

Collapsed bearing

The damage to mine is clear!

New bearing

This is what a new bearing should look like. Note that it has a built in "spacer" on one edge, this should be to the OUTSIDE of the hub/wheel. New bearing kits are available in the BigJimny store. There is also a special kit for ABS equipped cars

Re-assembly

This section needs completing but essentially it is a reverse procedure of above.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-== Arms and Bushes ==
+= Rear Wheel Bearings =
+== Introduction ==
-The Leading/Trailing Arms (or Radius Arms) on a Jimny are prone to off-roading or accident damage whilst the bushes are prone to wear. The arms also control the castor angle of the front axle and the diff angle of the rear axle. This section covers the changing of the arms, bushes and repair of general damage.
+The Rear Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. The drum brake backing plate is supposed to provide protection for the bearing but it is very poor and you can expect the bearing to fail VERY regularly. Providing you have the correct tools it can be  straight forward task.
-=== Typical Damage ===
-==== Damaged Arms ====
-My arms had suffered from a number of years of off-roading, they were also fitted with correction bushes which are good for a 2 inch lift but not really ok for the 3 inch lift I have got fitted.
-The arms on mine were nicely bent when compared to the edge of my yellow spirit level.....
-[[image:Bent_arm.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Bent Leading Arm]]
+So what are the symptoms of worn Rear Wheel bearings:
-<br clear=all>
+* Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
-Therefore I decided to replace the arms and cure the castor correction issues at the same time. A number of places do suitable replacement arms, be very careful about what arms you buy as the quality varies and any failure of the arm is very dangerous. The process for installation of fronts and rears is basically the same.
+* Oil/Grease leaking from rear of drum
+* Wheel falling off (yes, really, comes out complete with driveshaft!)
-==== Damaged Bushes ====
-Worn bushes can be a source of "[[Death_Wobble|Death Wobble]]". Here bushes themselves are splitting. Whilst they had not completely failed they were not in good health. You can see where the screwdriver can open up the split in the pictures below:
-[[image:Damaged_Bush.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Damaged Bush]]
+[[File:oilleaks1.jpg |thumb|left|250px|Typical symptom of failure]]{{note|Click on images to make them larger}}
 <br clear=all>
-==== Damaged Mounts ====
+----
-The mounting points for the arms are really weak and thin. They can wear out in an "oval" fashion that results in a strange "clunk" noise when letting the clutch up. In the worst case the mount can corrode through and rip away from the axle, this is becoming increasingly common as Jimnys get older.
-[[image:Worn_mount.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Worn Axle Mount]]
-<br clear=all>
-[[image:Good_mount.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Good Axle Mount]]
+== Changing the bearings ==
+=== Tools ===
+{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>Slide Hammer</li><li>Angle Grinder</li><li>Bearing Press</li></ul>
+<br>
+}}
 <br clear=all>
+{{warning|YOU NEED ACCESS TO A PRESS}}
-[[image:Broken_mount1.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Broken Axle Mount]]
-This is the same part as shown in the previous pictures except it is completely ripped off and gone!
 <br clear=all>
+== Bearing kits ==
-=== Castor Correction ===
+You will need a suitable bearing kit for your car. Two kits are available, one for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-abs-suzuki-jimny.html ABS] and one for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny.html non-ABS cars].
-If you are performing a lift then you may have heard about castor correction. The process of a spring lift (NOT a body lift) moves the position and angle of the axle slightly. This shows itself in the steering by making the steering feel loose and also reduces its ability to self centre. You can test this by steering in a gentle circle and then letting go of the steering wheel. A properly corrected Jimny will straighten up on its own whilst an uncorrected one will keep turning.
-There are a number of ways of correcting the castor.
-==== Correction Arms ====
-The picture shows the arms for the front along with a free bush insertion tool with the ones I purchased.
+The non-ABS kit has a plain retainer ring. This kit is available from a number of suppliers including the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/jimny-parts/service-items-and-parts/bearings-and-seals.html BigJimny Store]. I have sold a number of different kits over the years and found the quality of the retainer ring varies with some cheap kits being very poor quality.
-[[image:Corrected_Arms.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Corrected arms]]
+[[File:Rear_Wheel_Bearing_Kit.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Non-ABS Bearing kit]]
-These arms are made with the adjustment built in therefore they should be fitted with STANDARD bushes. They are typically available for 3 inch or 4 inch lifts. Most people feel that 2 inch lifts do not need correction.
 <br clear=all>
-==== Correction Bushes ====
-These work by off-setting the centre of the mount to achieve the correction. They are popular because of the price however they are probably best for small lifts (2 inches up to possibly 3 inches at a push) because the off-set required to give a larger lift means there is little to no rubber on one side of the bush which really affects its performance and ride).
+The ABS kit has a retainer ring with an ABS ring installed. The fitment of the kit is the same as the standard one but note that the ABS retainer is much larger overall if you were considering using the cheaper non-ABS kit. Some kits have a retainer ring with the ABS ring whilst other have the ring as an integral part.
-[[image:Correction_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Correction Bushes]]
+[[File:Old_retainer.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Old retainer ring]]
 <br clear=all>
-[[image:Correction_bushes2.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Castor Correction Bushes]]
+[[File:ABS_retainer.JPG|thumb|left|250px|Full ABS retainer]]
 <br clear=all>
-== Standard Bushes ==
+=== Removing the hub ===
+[[File:Rear drum.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Jimny Rear Drum]]
-A number of standard bushes are available.
+First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the [[Wikipedia:brake drum | brake drum]], this has a spacer fitted to it. With all the wheel bolts removed '''AND THE HANDBRAKE OFF''' the drum can be pulled forward and off the hub.
+<br clear=all>
+[[File:Drum_removal.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Using bolts to remove drum]]
+If the drum is stuck then first of all check that the handbrake is off then insert two small bolts in the holes in the face of the drum. Reach around the back and feel near the top for a rubber bung. Remove the rubber bung and insert a flat bladed screwdriver. Angle the screwdriver so that the blade is pointing to the back of the car and the handle towards the front, you should be able to feel the adjuster wheel. Using the screwdriver turn the adjuster downwards a few clicks. Then gradually tighten the bolts you inserted in the front, the drum should come off.
+<br clear=all>
-[[image:Arm_bushes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Selection of Bushes]]
+[[File:Rear_brake_shoes.jpg ‎|thumb|left|250px|Drum removed]]
+With the drum removed the brake shoes can be seen (covered in mud in this case!). As the hub has to come off to change the bearings you need to remove the brake assembly.
 <br clear=all>
+=== Removing the shoes ===
-The parts are ALL available by contacting the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/jimny-parts/service-items-and-parts/bushes-steering-wheels-axles.html BigJimny store] via phone or email (these are not stock items so are not shown directly in the store)
+[[File:Shoes_lower_spring.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Lower spring]]
+Use a small pair of pliers and remove the small spring that connects across the base of the brake shoes.
+<br clear=all>
-* ADK 88008 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
+[[File:Shoes_adjuster_spring_2.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Adjuster Spring]]
-* ADK 88007 - Body end bushes (Two required)
+Use a pair of molegrips to remove the strong spring that joins the top of the shoes with the adjuster. Make a careful note of how the adjuster is fitted, the rod has a forked end and on part of the fork has a step in it. Make careful note of how this fork is fitted.
+<br clear=all>
+[[File:Shoes_retainer_clip.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Shoe retainer]]
+Use a pair of pliers and twist the end of the shoe retaining pin until the spring clip it released
+<br clear=all>
-If you are doing the back then the part numbers are:
+[[File:Shoe_assembly_removal.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Shoe removal]]
+Now the shoes will lift away. Take care not to loose the little adjuster arm and its small spring.
+<br clear=all>
-* ADK 88006 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
+[[File:Handbrake_cable.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Handbrake cable]]
-* ADK 88007 - Body end bushes (Two required)
+Release the end of the handbrake cable from the arm on the shoe.
+<br clear=all>
-You could also buy the Suzuki ones if you want the original parts, the part numbers for the front are:
-* 46282-81A1 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
-* 46213-65D01 - Body end bushes (Two required)
-And the rear are:
-* 46282-81A00 - Axle end bushes (Four required)
-* 46213-65D01 - Body end bushes (Two required) (See Note)
-NOTE: Suzuki have identified that the 46213-65D series of bushes can cause [[Death_Wobble |Death Wobble]] a kit to replace these exists [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/suzuki-jimny-wobble-kit.html Wobble Kit]
-If you are going to the trouble of putting on new arms you really ought to put in new bushes as they do wear and they are difficult to press out of the old arms anyway.
-== Replacing the Bushes and Arms ==
-So onwards to installing the arms
-# The first activity is to remove the old arms. You need to jack up the car and remove the front wheel. I assume you can do that so have not included it here. PLEASE NOTE: You will have to jack up the car WITHOUT using the axle or leading arm as a jacking point, you need the axle to be free to be unbolted from the arm.
-# The arm is secured with three bolts, one at the back and two at the front. You may have to cut the old bolts off as they could be rusted on. Those of you with older Jimnys may have the vacuum tubes for the locking hubs routed down the arms. '''The latest ORA arms have suitable mounting points for the tubes so as part of this process you will have to move the tubes from the old arms across to the new ones. This is not shown in this write-up as my Jimny does not have the tubes routed this way.'''
-# You will need to press in the bushes, I have played about with trying to "wind" the new ones in with a piece of threaded rod but this was not successful. It would probably work with Polybush style bushes (SuperPro) as these are not encased in a metal casing like Suzuki or ADK bushes. You should be able to find a local garage or engineering shop prepared to press them in for a small consideration. However, as I have worn a bit thin my welcome at my local garages with pressing in wheel bearings I decided to splash out on my own press. I am glad I did because of the time it took to press in the six bushes would have definitely seem me less than welcome at the garage.
-# The picture below show the principle behind pressing in the bush. The outer ring from the Off-Road Armory tool is placed over the hole and the bush is dropped in (with a smear of copper grease to help everything along)
-[[image:Picture 166|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarms1.jpg]]
+[[File:Brake_cable_retainer.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Handbrake cable retainer]]
+The handbrake cable is held into the brake backing plate by an expanding spring clip around the cable. The clip needs to be squeezed so the cable can be pulled out complete with the clip. This is not easy to do but will come out with persistence.
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 4. Bush tool in place'''
-# Then the centre part of the tool is placed on top of the bush and the pressure is applied using the press, driving the bush into the arm.
-[[image:Picture 169|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarms3.jpg]]
+NO PICTURE.
+You then need to remove the brake pipes from the cylinder. Undo the pipes and catch the drips of brake fluid. There is one pipe if you are doing the passenger side and two pipes if you are doing the drivers side.
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 5. Pressing in the Bush'''
-# Resulting in a bush neatly pressed into the arm.
+=== Removing the Hub ===
-[[image:Picture 172|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarm2.jpg]]
+[[File:Backplate_bolts.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Backplate bolts]]
+The hub is retained by four bolts on the rear.
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 6. Complete Bush'''
-# However, it did not all go as smoothly as this for all the bushes. Whilst the outer part of the tool is a good fit, the inner part is right on the edge between sitting on the lip of the bush and dropping into the inner part where the rubber is. It is just a fraction too small. This applies to both ADK and Suzuki bushes as I have a mix of both on my car due to ADK running out.''' NOTE: Rob from the Off-Road Armory has told me that a revised tool is now sent out with the full arm kit so things have changed since I built my arms, therefore this write-up reflects how it went for me with the old tooling. The Off-Road Armory also offer to supply the arms with the bushes already installing (at extra cost).'''
-# The problem is slightly worse on the body end bushes as these are longer and stand proud of the tool. This means the tool/bush can move off of "straight" and result in damage to the bush. I had to clean up the damaged bush with a file to get rid of the edges that stood proud and would stop the bush fitting.
-[[image:Picture 175|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarms7.jpg]]
-'''Figure 7. Damaged Bush'''
+PICTURE REQUIRED
+The hub can now be removed. The unit is a friction fit into the axle casing. Attach a slide hammer to the hub and pull it out by using the slide hammer action. Alternatively refit the wheel or old wheel or brake drum (backwards) and hit the hub from behind to drive it off.
 <br clear=all>
-# The cure to this for the longer bushes was to stop using the tool and simply use a large flat surface to press on top of the bush. The pressing surface has to have a hole in it to allow the bush centre to stand proud, an old flange from my SJ did the trick.
-# I also created a very light chamfer on the edge of the arm with a file to "point" the bush in the correct direction. The first picture shows the chamfer....
-[[image:Picture 178|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarm4.jpg]]
+[[File:Rear_axle_oil_seal.jpg ‎|thumb|250px|left|Rear axle oil seal]]
+With the hub pulled you can then see the oil seal and oil splash protector in the axle. Hook the old seal out, clean up the axle and push the new seal supplied with the kit into place.
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 8. Chamfering the edge of the arm'''
-# Then the SJ flange pushed the bush in fair and square.
+=== Removing the Bearing ===
-[[image:Picture 181|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarm6.jpg]]
+[[File:Bearing retainer.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Bearing retainer]]
+The old bearing is held in place by a retainer ring which needs cutting off.
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 9. Using an SJ Flange to press in the bush'''
-# So I ended up with a smart pair of arms complete with bushes....
+[[File:Cut_bearing_retainer.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Cutting the Bearing retainer]]
+The best way seems to be to cut it away with an angle grinder. I do not know of anyone who has removed it in a different way.
+<br clear=all>
-[[image:Picture 184|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarm8.jpg]]
+[[File:Stuck inner race.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Stuck inner race]]
+With the retainer cut away you should be able to remove the remains of the bearing. As you can see in the picture, my bearing had collapsed and left the inner race on the axle .
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 10. Finished arms'''
-# The next challenge is to fit the arms back onto the car. Because mine is a full rebuild, everything has been off the car and hence has "moved". If you were doing this as an upgrade your more likely to remove one arm at a time, keeping most parts in line. I had to line everything up to get the bolts in.
-# I would recommend that you hang the arm from the body end first...
-[[image:Picture 187|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarm9.jpg]]
+[[File:Collapsed bearing.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Collapsed bearing]]
+The damage to mine is clear!
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 11. Body end fitted first'''
+[[File:New rear bearing.jpg|thumb|250px|left|New bearing]]
+This is what a new bearing should look like. Note that it has a built in "spacer" on one edge, this should be to the OUTSIDE of the hub/wheel.
-# I replaced all the bolts and nuts (M12 x 88mm x 1.25 Metric Fine) as the old ones had to be cut out.
+New bearing kits are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny.html BigJimny store]. There is also a special kit for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-abs-suzuki-jimny.html  ABS equipped cars]
-# I would recommend [http://www.ahc-camberley.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=32 AHC] in Camberley for the bolts (but note that their website does not list them, but they hold a good stock of various lengths) or [http://www.namrick.co.uk/ Namrick] are also a good online option. Just a further word on the bolts/nuts. They can be fitted through in either direction but if they are too long or fitted the wrong way around (which is possible if you have removed the shock absorber) then you will find they foul on the shock absorber. Play about with the bolt arrangements BEFORE tightening them or you may have to take them out again, guess how I learnt that!
-# With the rear of the arm attached I then offered up the front arms to the mounting point on the axle. This was a long way off so I used a Jack to lift the arm into position and then a lever (ok - I admit it - a large screwdriver!) to move it all around until the bolts fitted.
-[[image:Picture 190|250px|thumb|left|http://www.bigjimny.com/images/phocagallery/axlerebuild/leadingarm10.jpg]]
 <br clear=all>
-'''Figure 12. Front end bolts'''
-# The bolts should be tightened to 90Nm or 65 lb-ft.
-===Variations on a theme ===
-# The Offroad Armory continually develops its products. Therefore since this was written the arms have mounting points for the vacuum tubes on early models and the pressing tool has changed. I would recommend you discuss your needs with Rob at Off-Road Armory and he will be able to take you through the options they sell and any new developments.
+=== Re-assembly ===
-{{Edited}}
+This section needs completing but essentially it is a reverse procedure of above.

Difference between revisions of "Martins Test"

Latest revision as of 19:32, 3 February 2017

Contents

Rear Wheel Bearings

Introduction

Changing the bearings

Tools

Bearing kits

Removing the hub

Removing the shoes

Removing the Hub

Removing the Bearing

Re-assembly

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