Difference between revisions of "Martins Test"

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= Rear Wheel Bearings =
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== Introduction ==
  
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== Buying a Jimny ==
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The Rear Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. The drum brake backing plate is supposed to provide protection for the bearing but it is very poor and you can expect the bearing to fail VERY regularly. Providing you have the correct tools it can be  straight forward task.
  
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=== Before you buy ===
 
  
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* Take one for a test drive, compared to modern cars even the most recent Jimnys feel primitive.
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So what are the symptoms of worn Rear Wheel bearings:
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* Buy one in the Spring and sell one in the Winter, everyone wants a 4x4 when the snow falls so prices are higher in the winter.
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* Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
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* Oil/Grease leaking from rear of drum
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* Wheel falling off (yes, really, comes out complete with driveshaft!)
  
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=== General Points ===
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[[File:oilleaks1.jpg |thumb|left|250px|Typical symptom of failure]]{{note|Click on images to make them larger}}
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<br clear=all>
  
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* The main issue with Jimnys is rust, depending on the year/model etc some had rust protection but others did not. As the vehicle is chassis based it can pass a UK MOT test with quite a bit of rust unless the rust is around the body and seat mounting points.
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----
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** Try and look behind the front headlamps, underneath the lamps and splashguard, this is a rust point and is near the front body mounts.
 
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** Lift any carpet in the boot and look into the small pan where the tools/jack are stored, this can rust out, particularly on soft-tops.
 
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** Check the boot floor in general, this can rust through and is the most common issue. This is a real problem for older Jimnys.
 
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** Check around the seat belt mounting points for rust.
 
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** Check around the plastic trim, particularly on the sills as rust hides behind.
 
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** Check the brackets which connect the arms holding the axle in place, these rust at the axle and at the chassis end.
 
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* Kingpin bearings: A common issue on live axle 4x4s. These corrode and wear quickly. It is almost inevitable that you will have to change them at some point. When buying take that vital test drive and check for steering wobble around 45 - 50 mph. see [[The_Death_Wobble|Death Wobble]]
 
  
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=== G13B Specifics ===
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== Changing the bearings ==
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=== Tools ===
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{{tools|<ul><li> Standard metric sockets and spanners</li><li>Assorted screwdrivers</li><li>Slide Hammer</li><li>Angle Grinder</li><li>Bearing Press</li></ul>
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<br>
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}}
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<br clear=all>
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{{warning|YOU NEED ACCESS TO A PRESS}}
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<br clear=all>
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== Bearing kits ==
  
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==== Soft-top Specifics ====
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You will need a suitable bearing kit for your car. Two kits are available, one for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-abs-suzuki-jimny.html ABS] and one for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny.html non-ABS cars].
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* The Soft-top retained the G13B until the end with some late registrations in 2005
 
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* There are some M13A engined soft-tops around but these seem to be rare and an anomaly.
 
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* The soft-top frames suffer considerable corrosion at the front, Suzuki no longer make these parts and getting hold of replacements is extremely difficult
 
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* New soft tops can be bought from Monsoon in the UK. They have a reputation for good quality.
 
  
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=== M13A Specifics ===
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The non-ABS kit has a plain retainer ring. This kit is available from a number of suppliers including the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/jimny-parts/service-items-and-parts/bearings-and-seals.html BigJimny Store]. I have sold a number of different kits over the years and found the quality of the retainer ring varies with some cheap kits being very poor quality.
  
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=== M13A VVT Specifics ===
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[[File:Rear_Wheel_Bearing_Kit.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Non-ABS Bearing kit]]
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=== K9K Diesel Specifics ===
 
  
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After about 2000 hard tops got a twin cam engine with a timing chain instead of a cam belt. Soft tops retained their single cam engine until the end of their production in about 2005.
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The ABS kit has a retainer ring with an ABS ring installed. The fitment of the kit is the same as the standard one but note that the ABS retainer is much larger overall if you were considering using the cheaper non-ABS kit. Some kits have a retainer ring with the ABS ring whilst other have the ring as an integral part.
  
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You can buy hard tops to go on soft tops. This may be appealing as the soft top is in two parts with a front section over the front seats. You can remove just this section, which would be nice in the summer months! There were 2 designs of the hard top for soft tops and owners with more experience of these will tell you when they changed over and what he differences are.
 
  
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New soft tops can be bought from [http://www.monsooncarhoods.co.uk/suzuki-jimny-soft-top-hood Monsoon]. Their quality is awesome but I am led to believe their UK Customer Service isn't as good as their products.
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[[File:Old_retainer.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Old retainer ring]]  
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[[File:ABS_retainer.JPG|thumb|left|250px|Full ABS retainer]]
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Mechanical issues as a rule are not numerous but there are a couple of problems that can pop up from time to time, especially if you go off-road.
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=== Removing the hub ===
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[[File:Rear drum.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Jimny Rear Drum]]
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First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the [[Wikipedia:brake drum | brake drum]], this has a spacer fitted to it. With all the wheel bolts removed '''AND THE HANDBRAKE OFF''' the drum can be pulled forward and off the hub.
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[[File:Drum_removal.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Using bolts to remove drum]]
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If the drum is stuck then first of all check that the handbrake is off then insert two small bolts in the holes in the face of the drum. Reach around the back and feel near the top for a rubber bung. Remove the rubber bung and insert a flat bladed screwdriver. Angle the screwdriver so that the blade is pointing to the back of the car and the handle towards the front, you should be able to feel the adjuster wheel. Using the screwdriver turn the adjuster downwards a few clicks. Then gradually tighten the bolts you inserted in the front, the drum should come off.
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The King Pin bearings in the front axles wear quicker on the Jimny than they ever did on the SJ. The movement created by this causes the axle tube oil seal to leak and mix with the CV grease. You then have the gunk created by their mixture leaking out of the Swivel Ball Dust Seals. This is no biggie for the DIY mechanic. The biggest issue will be rusted in bolts but they are all available in the Big Jimny Shop at a reasonable price with a very good and quick service from the site Owner - Martin Lines.
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[[File:Rear_brake_shoes.jpg ‎|thumb|left|250px|Drum removed]]
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With the drum removed the brake shoes can be seen (covered in mud in this case!). As the hub has to come off to change the bearings you need to remove the brake assembly.
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The trouble is that many Professional Mechanics do not see the old SJ very often to know the Swivels on Suzuki's do not have oil in them for the CV's like the Land Rovers they are used to repairing. The CV is just greased with a rubber dust seal that wipes over the swivel ball. They then quote silly things for the simple repair.
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=== Removing the shoes ===
  
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A home mechanic can change the King Pin Bearings in about 3/4 hours per side when all the bolts have been off before. There's a "How To" Guide within here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/information/qhow-toq-guides
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[[File:Shoes_lower_spring.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Lower spring]]
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Use a small pair of pliers and remove the small spring that connects across the base of the brake shoes.
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Moving on a little from the King Pin bearings but still linked to them is a phenomenon called "Death Wobble". It has it's own thread here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum?view=topic&catid=7&id=51883
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[[File:Shoes_adjuster_spring_2.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Adjuster Spring]]
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Use a pair of molegrips to remove the strong spring that joins the top of the shoes with the adjuster. Make a careful note of how the adjuster is fitted, the rod has a forked end and on part of the fork has a step in it. Make careful note of how this fork is fitted.  
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[[File:Shoes_retainer_clip.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Shoe retainer]]
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Use a pair of pliers and twist the end of the shoe retaining pin until the spring clip it released
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<br clear=all>
  
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I won't repeat the contents of this thread again but essentially you can have a horrible wobble of the steering wheel, usually about 45 MPH that gets so bad you think you are going to die. Hence the name. Worn King Pin Bearings are one cause of it. The thread will tell you about all the others.
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[[File:Shoe_assembly_removal.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Shoe removal]]
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Now the shoes will lift away. Take care not to loose the little adjuster arm and its small spring.
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The Jimny is not the only Live Axle vehicle to suffer with it. Jeeps also suffer and I have known of Land Rovers to do so. The Jimny is particularly susceptible to it though.
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[[File:Handbrake_cable.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Handbrake cable]]
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Release the end of the handbrake cable from the arm on the shoe.
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<br clear=all>
  
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In about 2005 the twin cam engine was developed to have Variable Valve Timing - VVT. This gave the Jimny a few extra Horses but there was also a new Gearbox added at this time and the 4WD mechanism went from a gearstick from the transfer box push button selection for 2WD, 4WD HIGH and 4WD LOW.
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[[File:Brake_cable_retainer.jpg|thumb|left|250x250px|Handbrake cable retainer]]
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The handbrake cable is held into the brake backing plate by an expanding spring clip around the cable. The clip needs to be squeezed so the cable can be pulled out complete with the clip. This is not easy to do but will come out with persistence.
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The Jimny is normally 2WD you see and has no Centre Differential like some Land Rovers do. You must only put it in 4WD when the ground is of a slightly lower grip (wet grass, gravel, ice, snow). Otherwise you will suffer what is called transmission wind up, where tension builds in the transmission as the front and rear axles have turned as different speeds from cornering etc.
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NO PICTURE.
 +
You then need to remove the brake pipes from the cylinder. Undo the pipes and catch the drips of brake fluid. There is one pipe if you are doing the passenger side and two pipes if you are doing the drivers side.
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<br clear=all>
  
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Both methods of changing from High to Low and 4WD to 2WD appear reliable.
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=== Removing the Hub ===
  
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The transfer box has a chain inside which can stretch and start to make vibration noises through wear. To test, drive in second and go on and off the throttle to see if you can hear it vibrate as it goes slack when you take your foot off the throttle. Second hand transfer boxes are easy to get and cheap enough. Replacement is easy. They are divorced from the gearbox, connected with a mini prop and light enough for a single person to bench press up with one arm whilst guiding it with the other. Or use a Jack!
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[[File:Backplate_bolts.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Backplate bolts]]
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The hub is retained by four bolts on the rear.
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<br clear=all>
  
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The VVT engine received a new gearbox though. This gearbox on the whole is reliable but being a forum specialising in these cars we hear of all the problems. One of them is that this VVT gearbox does sometimes go wrong and is expensive to repair and next to impossible to find second hand. When you do find one it will be expensive. The symptoms to my understanding are worn bearing like noises but the problem, a transmission specialist new to this site recently posted, is more syncromesh related, hence the expensive repairs. He suggested the oil Suzuki spec is too thin and burns too quickly. No other gearbox can be fitted in its place from older cars. So you have to fix it or find a like replacement.
 
  
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I believe later models have a new gearbox again that is probably too new to show any issues. When this was introduced I am not sure.
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PICTURE REQUIRED
 +
The hub can now be removed. The unit is a friction fit into the axle casing. Attach a slide hammer to the hub and pull it out by using the slide hammer action. Alternatively refit the wheel or old wheel or brake drum (backwards) and hit the hub from behind to drive it off.
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There are many other small issues, such as the bolt holes for the rear radius arm mounts elongating, allowing the bolt to move and clunk. Sometimes they are just loose and need nipping up. I've experienced this twice. I've nipped them up and have not got elongated holes as a result.
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[[File:Rear_axle_oil_seal.jpg ‎|thumb|250px|left|Rear axle oil seal]]
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With the hub pulled you can then see the oil seal and oil splash protector in the axle. Hook the old seal out, clean up the axle and push the new seal supplied with the kit into place.
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<br clear=all>
  
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The vacuum operated hubs can fail where the vacuum leaks from the rubber seals of the pipework. This can be solved by finding the leak and replacing the parts required or blocking it off and fitting manual hubs / fixed hubs.
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=== Removing the Bearing ===
  
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I started this thread about converting your vacuum hubs to fixed for free: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum?view=topic&catid=7&id=55862
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[[File:Bearing retainer.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Bearing retainer]]
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The old bearing is held in place by a retainer ring which needs cutting off.
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<br clear=all>
  
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There is school of thought that this is no good for your front diff or transfer box as it is not designed to always have the reverse forces on the gears when you let off the throttle and are in over run. My personal experience is that there is no need to worry and my old SJ had fixed front hubs from the factory. You make your choice. I've run fixed hubs for a long time with no issues on my Jimny.
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[[File:Cut_bearing_retainer.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Cutting the Bearing retainer]]
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The best way seems to be to cut it away with an angle grinder. I do not know of anyone who has removed it in a different way.
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<br clear=all>
  
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If you are planning to go off road you will likely want to modify your Jimny. The first things you will want to do are give it a suspension lift and bigger tyres. These are topics in their own right but a point to bear in mind is that the Low ratios in the transfer box are not that Low and you'll find tyres bigger than 215/75/15 will make Low ratio far too High.
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[[File:Stuck inner race.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Stuck inner race]]
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With the retainer cut away you should be able to remove the remains of the bearing. As you can see in the picture, my bearing had collapsed and left the inner race on the axle .
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<br clear=all>
  
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We solve this problem the same way as SJ owners do. We use a Rocklobster Transfer Box. This is an SJ transfer box casing with some magic performed inside to give a slight reduction in High Ratio and a much, much lower Low ratio gearset. Richard Wattam from RAM AUTO DESIGN is the main man for this and does a great fitting kit. Jimnybits.co.uk also sell them.
 
  
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I mention Rocklobsters in this Buyer's Guide as fitting a Rocklobster to a Push Button Transfer Box car is a bit harder than fitting it to a stick shift transfer box car. It is not insurmountable but if you know you will be going down the Rocklobster route with massive modifications at some point, you might just want to make your life easier by buying a stick transfer box car in the first place!
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[[File:Collapsed bearing.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Collapsed bearing]]
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The damage to mine is clear!
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<br clear=all>
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[[File:New rear bearing.jpg|thumb|250px|left|New bearing]]
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This is what a new bearing should look like. Note that it has a built in "spacer" on one edge, this should be to the OUTSIDE of the hub/wheel.
 +
New bearing kits are available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-suzuki-jimny.html BigJimny store]. There is also a special kit for [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/rear-wheel-bearing-kit-abs-suzuki-jimny.html  ABS equipped cars]
 +
<br clear=all>
  
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Having said all of this, my personal pick of the bunch from across the years of UK Jimny models is the 2000 model hard top up to the end of February 2011.
 
  
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My reasons for this are that it has the twin cam engine (no cambelt to change or head gasket issues) in the lower tax bracket and the reliable gearbox with stick shift transfer box. You just have to look out for the rust! After this it is a pre 2005 twin cam, just suffering the little extra tax.
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=== Re-assembly ===
  
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I would personally buy a 2005 on VVT but would change the gearbox oil nearly as often as the Engine Oil - it's not hard! The younger it is the less rust it will have. There are many VVT engine cars that have never had gearbox troubles. So don't think because we are aware of it on a forum that it is a massive issue. Forums are magnets for the problems but don't publicise the hundreds of thousands of cars that never had the issue!
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This section needs completing but essentially it is a reverse procedure of above.
−
 
 
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There are other things that go wrong like on any car - blocked and worn out cats, cam and crank sensors. cooling system faults. Nothing more than other cars though.
 
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One last thing to mention is that if you are buying to create an off road monster with massive tyres, the shafts and CV's are not as strong as on the SJ413 or Samurai. They are more akin to the SJ410 in dimensions and strength, yet have more power and torque than any of them before it. You will therefore need to budget for HD front shafts and CV's from one of the several manufacturers selling them now. They are not cheap! This is no different than for Land Rover owners who spend fortunes with Ashcroft Transmissions!
 
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I hope this helps.
 
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Kirktnut
 

Latest revision as of 19:32, 3 February 2017

Rear Wheel Bearings

Introduction

The Rear Wheel Bearings on a Jimny can be prone to wearing, particularly when used off-road. The drum brake backing plate is supposed to provide protection for the bearing but it is very poor and you can expect the bearing to fail VERY regularly. Providing you have the correct tools it can be straight forward task.


So what are the symptoms of worn Rear Wheel bearings:

  • Grating/Grinding as you rotate a jacked up wheel
  • Oil/Grease leaking from rear of drum
  • Wheel falling off (yes, really, comes out complete with driveshaft!)
Typical symptom of failure

Note Icon.pngClick on images to make them larger



Changing the bearings

Tools

Spanner Icon.png
  • Standard metric sockets and spanners
  • Assorted screwdrivers
  • Slide Hammer
  • Angle Grinder
  • Bearing Press



Warning Icon.pngYOU NEED ACCESS TO A PRESS



Bearing kits

You will need a suitable bearing kit for your car. Two kits are available, one for ABS and one for non-ABS cars.

The non-ABS kit has a plain retainer ring. This kit is available from a number of suppliers including the BigJimny Store. I have sold a number of different kits over the years and found the quality of the retainer ring varies with some cheap kits being very poor quality.

Non-ABS Bearing kit



The ABS kit has a retainer ring with an ABS ring installed. The fitment of the kit is the same as the standard one but note that the ABS retainer is much larger overall if you were considering using the cheaper non-ABS kit. Some kits have a retainer ring with the ABS ring whilst other have the ring as an integral part.


Old retainer ring



Full ABS retainer


Removing the hub

Jimny Rear Drum

First of all secure the car, release the wheel nuts and jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This then reveals the brake drum, this has a spacer fitted to it. With all the wheel bolts removed AND THE HANDBRAKE OFF the drum can be pulled forward and off the hub.

Using bolts to remove drum

If the drum is stuck then first of all check that the handbrake is off then insert two small bolts in the holes in the face of the drum. Reach around the back and feel near the top for a rubber bung. Remove the rubber bung and insert a flat bladed screwdriver. Angle the screwdriver so that the blade is pointing to the back of the car and the handle towards the front, you should be able to feel the adjuster wheel. Using the screwdriver turn the adjuster downwards a few clicks. Then gradually tighten the bolts you inserted in the front, the drum should come off.

Drum removed

With the drum removed the brake shoes can be seen (covered in mud in this case!). As the hub has to come off to change the bearings you need to remove the brake assembly.

Removing the shoes

Lower spring

Use a small pair of pliers and remove the small spring that connects across the base of the brake shoes.

Adjuster Spring

Use a pair of molegrips to remove the strong spring that joins the top of the shoes with the adjuster. Make a careful note of how the adjuster is fitted, the rod has a forked end and on part of the fork has a step in it. Make careful note of how this fork is fitted.

Shoe retainer

Use a pair of pliers and twist the end of the shoe retaining pin until the spring clip it released

Shoe removal

Now the shoes will lift away. Take care not to loose the little adjuster arm and its small spring.

Handbrake cable

Release the end of the handbrake cable from the arm on the shoe.

Handbrake cable retainer

The handbrake cable is held into the brake backing plate by an expanding spring clip around the cable. The clip needs to be squeezed so the cable can be pulled out complete with the clip. This is not easy to do but will come out with persistence.

NO PICTURE. You then need to remove the brake pipes from the cylinder. Undo the pipes and catch the drips of brake fluid. There is one pipe if you are doing the passenger side and two pipes if you are doing the drivers side.

Removing the Hub

Backplate bolts

The hub is retained by four bolts on the rear.


PICTURE REQUIRED The hub can now be removed. The unit is a friction fit into the axle casing. Attach a slide hammer to the hub and pull it out by using the slide hammer action. Alternatively refit the wheel or old wheel or brake drum (backwards) and hit the hub from behind to drive it off.

Rear axle oil seal

With the hub pulled you can then see the oil seal and oil splash protector in the axle. Hook the old seal out, clean up the axle and push the new seal supplied with the kit into place.

Removing the Bearing

Bearing retainer

The old bearing is held in place by a retainer ring which needs cutting off.

Cutting the Bearing retainer

The best way seems to be to cut it away with an angle grinder. I do not know of anyone who has removed it in a different way.

Stuck inner race

With the retainer cut away you should be able to remove the remains of the bearing. As you can see in the picture, my bearing had collapsed and left the inner race on the axle .


Collapsed bearing

The damage to mine is clear!

New bearing

This is what a new bearing should look like. Note that it has a built in "spacer" on one edge, this should be to the OUTSIDE of the hub/wheel. New bearing kits are available in the BigJimny store. There is also a special kit for ABS equipped cars


Re-assembly

This section needs completing but essentially it is a reverse procedure of above.

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