Immobiliser

The content of any article might be expanded / improved in the future - revisit it sometimes.
Seen a mistake? Know something that isn't written? Edit and change this article yourself!
Some images in the article (if present) can be enlarged by clicking on them.

THIS IS INCOMPLETE AS IT IS CURRENTLY STILL BEING WRITTEN

Introduction

In some markets an Immobiliser system is fitted. Whilst the actions you can perform on this system are limited (for security reasons!), Suzuki provide access to the diagnostics so you can at least understand where any issue might be.

The immobiliser consists of 4 main parts of which 3 are "active" ie. contain a level of intelligence.

1. The key. This contains a small coded chip in the form of a tiny black rectangle. This is activated by a radio signal and does NOT require a battery. In keys with batteries these are for the remote lock/unlock facility and does not affect chip operation. However when changing the batteries (or renewing the key case) do not lose the chip!.

2. The Coil Antenna - this is the only passive part of the system. It is looped around the ignition key barrel and senses the chip in the key. It transmits a pulse to power the chip in the key and then passes the response to the Immobiliser unit.

3. Immobiliser unit. This reads the key code coming from the antenna and compares it with a list of up to 4 keys registered in its memory. It also talks to the ECU as well, exchanging its own internal secret code number and the ECUs secret number. Only if the key code, the immobiliser secret number and ECU secret number are all as stored in the memory will it let the ECU start the engine

4. ECU. This starts the engine but only when permitted by the immobiliser. It also checks the secret code received from the immobiliser and only proceeds if this code is matched to the one in its memory. If starting is not permitted then the ECU disables the injectors and the spark ignition.

In summary, the keys, the immobiliser and the ECU are all matched together and changing ANY one requires re-coding of the system. The re-coding can only be done using the Suzuki proprietary scan tool.

However, as stated, the diagnostic codes can be read using the following instructions.

Preparing the read-out

The ECU.

Please refer to the ECU section to read codes from the ECU (NEED TO WRITE LINK)

The Immobiliser.

The read-out of the error codes from the immobiliser is achieved by plugging an analogue (with a needle) voltmeter in the immobiliser connector located behind the dashboard. It is on the drivers side (both for Right Hand Drive and Left Hand Drive) behind the steering wheel, on the side of the steering wheel nearest the door.

Therefore, on vehicles with the steering wheel on the proper side (RHD) it is behind the dashboard behind the drivers right hand when it is holding the steering wheel.

If you are in one of those Jimnys with the steering wheel on the wrong side (a legacy of being invaded by Napoleon) then it is behind the dashboard behind the drivers left hand when it is holding the steering wheel.

PICTURE OF CONNECTOR NEEDED

Reading the codes

To read the codes:

1. Plug meter into immobiliser socket
2. Switch on ignition.

The immobiliser will now flick the meter needle giving a code to tell you the fault.

The code is a two digit code so will flick the first digit (using LONG flicks), pause for 1 second and then flash the second digit (Using short flicks), then after a 3 second delay it will repeat.

The Immobiliser codes are:

Code	Meter needle	Reason
00	Three short	Normal
11	One Long, one short	Key not matched
31	Three long, one short	No keys stored
32	Three long, three short	Key not matched (airbag fitted)
12	One long, two short	Immobiliser fault
13	One long, 3 short	Coil antenna or key fault
21	Two long, one shore	ECU/Immobiliser code
22	Two long, two short	Ignition Switch
23	Two long, three short	Serial Data Link

The related ECU codes are:

Code	Reason
12	Normal
81	ECU/Immobiliser code not matched
84	ECU/Immobiliser code not stored
82	ECU Fault
83	Serial data link fault

Clearing codes

To clear the codes:

1. Switch off ignition.
2. Using a piece of wire, short the two pins in the connector together.
3. Turn on the ignition.
4. Pull and remake the wire link at least 5 times within a 10 second period.
5. Turn off ignition and remove the wire.

To be certain that the clearing has been successfully performed, you can repeat the "reading the codes" procedure above to confirm that the code is now "12" = normal.

---

Page last edited on 21/08/2018 by user Mlines