Rust protection - Revision history

Bosanek: Additional note about fuel tank removal

2021-12-22T11:07:07Z

Additional note about fuel tank removal

Bosanek: Added the article into gen2 categories

2021-01-17T13:02:59Z

Added the article into gen2 categories

Bosanek: Typo

2021-01-04T11:12:09Z

Typo

Bosanek: Added a list of manufacturers of corrosion protection products

2021-01-04T11:10:25Z

Added a list of manufacturers of corrosion protection products

Bosanek: More info on cleaning the cavities

2020-09-11T08:47:33Z

More info on cleaning the cavities

Bosanek: New chapter on inspecting the cavities

2020-09-10T06:08:41Z

New chapter on inspecting the cavities

Bosanek: More info on causes of rust

2020-09-08T08:23:39Z

More info on causes of rust

Bosanek: New chapter on typical causes of rust

2020-09-08T08:01:07Z

New chapter on typical causes of rust

Bosanek: More various info

2020-09-04T10:18:48Z

More various info

Bosanek: More info on washing and bitumen

2020-09-04T09:06:22Z

More info on washing and bitumen

Show changes

@@ Line 234: / Line 234: @@
 * The other way to gain access to hardly accessible parts of the body are to remove the fuel tank, the rear exhaust muffler, and/or the transfer case.
 ** Removal of the fuel tank will provide much better access to the underside of the body below the rear seats and below the boot.
 ** These are the areas which usually suffer the most from rust on Jimnys, and these areas can then be properly cleaned and protected.
-{{note|The wiki article [[Fuel tank removal and installation|"'''Fuel tank removal and installation'''"]] contains a guide on how to remove the fuel tank.}}
+{{note|The wiki article [[Fuel tank removal and installation|"'''Fuel tank removal and installation'''"]] contains a guide on how to lower and even remove the fuel tank.}}

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:02, 17 January 2021
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	{{Edited}}		{{Edited}}
		+
		+	[[Category:Body - gen2]]
		+	[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]

	[[Category:Body - gen3]]		[[Category:Body - gen3]]

@@ Line 801: / Line 801: @@
 * [https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/company-uk/3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Automotive/Two-Wheel-Vehicles/Painting-Equipment-Supplies/?N=5002385+8709313+8709407+8711017+8711441&rt=r3 3M]
 * [https://www.bilthamber.com/ Bilt Hamber]
-* [https://www.carsystem.org/en/ Car Systems (Vosschemie)]
+* [https://www.carsystem.org/en/ Car System (Vosschemie)]
 * [https://www.dinitrol.com/ Dinitrol]
 ** [https://www.dinitroldirect.com/ Another official web site]

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:10, 4 January 2021
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	** Therefore, it is very important to discuss with the contractor about all the details of how all the phases of the job will be done (and check up on them a few times during the execution) in order to avoid skimpy execution.		** Therefore, it is very important to discuss with the contractor about all the details of how all the phases of the job will be done (and check up on them a few times during the execution) in order to avoid skimpy execution.
	*** Be prepared to pay / "tip" them more for a thorough job execution though!		*** Be prepared to pay / "tip" them more for a thorough job execution though!
		+
		+
		+	== Products and manufacturers ==
		+
		+
		+	Top quality manufacturers of various underbody anti-rust protection products (in alphabetical order):
		+	* [https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/company-uk/3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Automotive/Two-Wheel-Vehicles/Painting-Equipment-Supplies/?N=5002385+8709313+8709407+8711017+8711441&rt=r3 3M]
		+	* [https://www.bilthamber.com/ Bilt Hamber]
		+	* [https://www.carsystem.org/en/ Car Systems (Vosschemie)]
		+	* [https://www.dinitrol.com/ Dinitrol]
		+	** [https://www.dinitroldirect.com/ Another official web site]
		+	* [https://www.hammerite.co.uk/ Hammerite]
		+	* [https://mike-sander.de/index.php/en/ Mike Sanders]
		+	* [https://www.tectyleurope.com/ Valvoline/Tectyl]
		+
		+
		+	Manufacturers of cleaning products (traffic film removers etc.):
		+	* [https://www.atassrl.it/en/ Atas]
		+	** [https://www.atassrl.it/en/product/dimer/ Atas' Dimer traffic film remover product]

@@ Line 334: / Line 334: @@
@@ Line 346: / Line 367: @@
 # Side door sills;
 #* Accessible through holes which house the rear speakers (between side doors and rear seats);
@@ Line 358: / Line 382: @@
 ** Therefore, a standard automotive detergent / degreaser should suffice.
 * Rinse the cavities with ''plenty'' of clear water, in order to insure that no degreaser or detergent remains inside.

@@ Line 256: / Line 256: @@
 * Although regular power washing with a common degreaser removes all mud, dirt, sand and common filth from the underbody and makes it appear clean, the final layer of traffic film stays on firmly on the surface.
 ** The only way to convince someone that traffic film is still present on an apparently clean surface is to let them see the same surface again (in a very different color) after the traffic film has been removed from it.
-* Traffic film is so tough to remove than the only adequate chemicals for its removal are specialized detergents and degreasers, which explicitly state that they remove traffic film (hence called TFR - [https://www.detailingwiki.org/detailing-miscellaneous/traffic-film-remover/ "traffic film remover"]).
+* Traffic film is so tough to remove that the only adequate chemicals for its removal are specialized detergents and degreasers, which explicitly state that they remove traffic film (hence called TFR - [https://www.detailingwiki.org/detailing-miscellaneous/traffic-film-remover/ "traffic film remover"]).
 ** Many people have tried hard with various "non-TFR" detergents and degreasers, and the success is minor at best even with extreme effort and persistence.
 ** Even with a TFR, you might have to power wash the vehicle several times in order to completely remove traffic film.
@@ Line 292: / Line 292: @@
 === Cleaning and washing the cavities ===
 * Anti-rust treatment of the cavities in the chassis and in the body is even more important than the treatment of the exposed areas of the underbody.
-** This involves cleaning the cavities with brushes (where possible) and then (power) washing the cavities prior to spraying them with a cavity wax.
+** This means waxing them with a cavity wax, but before that, it involves cleaning the cavities with brushes (where possible) and then either blowing them with compressed air or a strong leaf blower, and/or (power) washing them.
-* It is best to wash the cavities ''before'' washing the underbody.
+*** If cleaning a cavity with brushes is not feasible (unreachable or a very small access hole), then just power wash it well.
-** This way, the muck that drains from the cavities will not contaminate the freshly cleaned underbody.
+* It is best to clean / wash the cavities ''before'' washing the underbody.
 ** Cavities will also have more time to dry while you are busy washing the underbody.
-* Don't forget to remove all drain plugs from the cavities before washing them.
+* Don't forget to remove all drain plugs from the cavities before blowing or washing them.
 * It is recommended to manually brush the cavities which have relatively large access holes prior to washing them, in order to partially scrape off and release the accumulated and hardened dirt and dust inside of them.
-** This will significantly improve washing efficiency, since it is near impossible to effectively power wash the cavities, because a water jet can rarely be directed at their surfaces perpendicularly.
+** This will significantly improve washing efficiency, since it is near impossible to effectively ''power'' wash the cavities, because a water jet can rarely be directed at their surfaces perpendicularly in order to attack the hardened dirt or mud deposits.
 ** It is best to use long cylindrical brushes, like the ones designed to clean ventilation pipes or even chimneys.
 *** Such brushes should be available in any home improvement store, or even in generic supermarkets.
 *** Beware when using very abrasive brushes (usually the ones with metal wires or metal nets, intended for cleaning chimneys), as they will damage paint inside the cavities.
 **** However, if the cavity is already rusty (usually the case with the chassis rails), than this kind of brush is actually a good tool to remove some of that rust.
@@ Line 313: / Line 340: @@
 # Chassis rails and tubes;
 #* These usually have the most amount of the most stubborn dirt inside of them by far compared to all the other cavities;
 #* Read more in the rest of this article on how to remove rust from the insides of a rusty chassis.
 # Below / behind rear vertical lamps;
 #* Accessible when rear seat belts are removed;
 # Side door sills;
-#* Accessible through holes which house the rear speakers;
+#* Accessible through holes which house the rear speakers (between side doors and rear seats);

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 == Typical causes of rust ==
+Statistically and generally for any vehicle, the most common "starting" areas where rust begins to develop and progress from further on (most common first):
 # Cavities in the body and in the chassis.
 #* These are the most likely areas by far.
 #* Once rust develops in a cavity, it is very difficult or (usually) impossible to eliminate - only to slow down to a certain extent.
 #** Therefore, preventive anti-rust treatment of the cavities should be priority number one when combating rust.
@@ Line 240: / Line 242: @@
 == Cleaning and washing ==
+{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}
 === Importance ===

@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 # Inner wheel arches;
 #* Usually rear wheel arches, in combination with rusty floor below the rear seats;
@@ Line 263: / Line 289: @@
-=== Washing the cavities ===
+=== Cleaning and washing the cavities ===
-* Treating the cavities in the chassis and in the body is even more important than treating the exposed areas of the underbody.
+* Anti-rust treatment of the cavities in the chassis and in the body is even more important than the treatment of the exposed areas of the underbody.
-** This involves (power) washing the cavities prior to spraying them with a cavity wax.
+** This involves cleaning the cavities with brushes (where possible) and then (power) washing the cavities prior to spraying them with a cavity wax.
 * It is best to wash the cavities ''before'' washing the underbody.
 ** This way, the muck that drains from the cavities will not contaminate the freshly cleaned underbody.

@@ Line 212: / Line 212: @@
-=== Cleaning and washing ===
+== Cleaning and washing ==
-==== Importance ====
+=== Importance ===
 * Unless the vehicle is bran' spankin' new from the factory, its underbody has more layers and varieties of dirt and filth stacked onto it than there are galaxies in the universe.
@@ Line 222: / Line 222: @@
-==== Washing agents ====
+=== Washing agents ===
@@ Line 242: / Line 242: @@
-==== Proper washing procedure ====
+=== Proper washing procedure ===
@@ Line 263: / Line 263: @@
-==== Washing the cavities ====
+=== Washing the cavities ===
@@ Line 322: / Line 322: @@
-=== Importance of existing rust removal and bare metal surface etching ===
+== Importance of existing rust removal and bare metal surface etching ==
@@ Line 381: / Line 381: @@
-=== Timing and weather protection ===
+== Timing and weather protection ==
@@ Line 402: / Line 402: @@
-=== General procedure of underbody rust proofing ===
+== General procedure of underbody rust proofing ==
@@ Line 450: / Line 450: @@
-=== Choice of coating types ===
+== Choice of coating types ==
-==== General overview ====
+=== General overview ===
@@ Line 462: / Line 462: @@
-==== Primer paint ====
+=== Primer paint ===
@@ Line 481: / Line 481: @@
 #* This is especially important when leaving a primer painted metal surface overnight (or for multiple days) before applying further coatings to it.
 #** This is usually the case in practice.
@@ Line 487: / Line 488: @@
 # Very difficult to remove after they cure;
 # Relatively expensive;
@@ Line 520: / Line 523: @@
-==== Bitumen / tar ====
+=== Bitumen / tar ===
@@ Line 570: / Line 573: @@
-==== Wax ====
+=== Wax ===
@@ Line 613: / Line 616: @@
-==== Lanolin ====
+=== Lanolin ===
@@ Line 645: / Line 648: @@
-==== Oil ====
+=== Oil ===
@@ Line 651: / Line 654: @@
-==== Synthetic resins ====
+=== Synthetic resins ===
@@ Line 657: / Line 660: @@
-==== Polyurethane ====
+=== Polyurethane ===
@@ Line 665: / Line 668: @@
-=== Final notes ===
+== Popular application combinations ==