2WD-only Jimny to 4WD retrofit - Revision history

Bosanek: Added a picture of a dismounted dummy transfer case

2020-11-18T09:24:16Z

Added a picture of a dismounted dummy transfer case

Bosanek: Added more info regarding selection of donor front axle assembly

2020-11-18T08:31:40Z

Added more info regarding selection of donor front axle assembly

Bosanek: Category adjustment

2019-02-21T13:20:33Z

Category adjustment

Bosanek: Corrected some interwiki links

2019-01-12T17:09:16Z

Corrected some interwiki links

Bosanek: Corrected some interwiki links

2018-12-23T18:54:18Z

Corrected some interwiki links

Bosanek: Added a note that removal of some stuck bolts can introduce significant additional work

2018-09-21T07:37:54Z

Added a note that removal of some stuck bolts can introduce significant additional work

Bosanek: A small note about trimming spare tyre spacers on the rear door

2018-07-26T17:00:42Z

A small note about trimming spare tyre spacers on the rear door

Bosanek: Added a note about a possible required vehicle recertification

2018-07-25T13:38:55Z

Added a note about a possible required vehicle recertification

Bosanek: Added a picture gallery of 2WD-only Jimny's factory transmission and suspension

2018-07-25T07:44:17Z

Added a picture gallery of 2WD-only Jimny's factory transmission and suspension

Bosanek: Added info about correct tightening torque

2018-07-23T12:55:10Z

Added info about correct tightening torque

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:24, 18 November 2020
Line 99:		Line 99:
	* Notice a set of wires connected to the transfer case - that's probably just for the speedometer.		* Notice a set of wires connected to the transfer case - that's probably just for the speedometer.

		+	[[File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - B01.jpg\|400px\|thumb\|center\|Dismounted dummy transfer case from a 2WD-only Jimny 3.]]

@@ Line 169: / Line 169: @@
 * A standard, mechanically operated Jimny transfer case with all the gearing inside, together with a mechanical operating lever.
-** The transfer case is bolt-on compatible and will fit into a 2WD-Jimny like it's an original installation.
+** This transfer case model was used in Jimnys built from year 1998 to year 2005.
@@ Line 182: / Line 183: @@
 ** Even propeller shafts from newer Jimnys with push-button operated transfer box should be the same.
 * If the universal joint in the front propeller shaft is worn, you will also need a new universal joint.
-** It is best to install a new universal joint at this point while the propeller shaft is not yet mounted.
+** It is best to preventively install a new universal joint at this point while the propeller shaft has not yet been mounted.
-{{note|The wiki article [[Universal joint replacement|"Universal joint replacement"]] contains further details.}}
+{{note|The wiki article [[Universal joint replacement|'''"Universal joint replacement"''']] contains further details.}}
@@ Line 195: / Line 196: @@
 * Front differential;
 * Pair of front half shafts;
-* Pair of CV joints;
+* Pair of Constant Velocity (CV) joints;
 * Pair of front wheel hub assemblies;
 ** These consist of a wheel hub casing, pair of king pins, pair of king pin bearings, wheel bearing, and a lot of seals, c-clips, rings and other small parts.
@@ Line 201: / Line 202: @@
 Vehicle junk yards usually sell the front axle as this complete assembly, and buying it as a complete assembly should be the cheapest way anyway.
@@ Line 240: / Line 248: @@
 * It is '''not''' recommended to install original vacuum locking front free wheeling wheel hub heads from a 4WD Jimny.
 ** In that case, an entire vacuum system (solenoids, switches, pipes, tank, etc.) would then have to be retrofitted as well, as well as the 4WD control computer.
-*** This would make the entire 4WD transmission retrofit procedure a much complicated endeavor than it actually is.
+*** This would make the entire 4WD transmission retrofit procedure a much more complicated endeavor than it actually is.
 * A much simpler and more robust solution is to install manually operated free wheeling front wheel hub heads instead.
 ** These do not require the presence of any vacuum system element nor the presence of 4WD control computer.
@@ Line 267: / Line 275: @@
 ** While you are at it, you should also change oils in the gear box and in the rear differential too.
 * Since brake pipes will temporarily be disconnected from the front brakes, some air will probably enter the brake system.
-** Therefore, and air purge from the brake system will probably be necessary.
+** Therefore, an air purge from the brake system will probably be necessary.
 *** Why not change the entire brake fluid at the same occasion.
 * Required oil specifications and quantities are written in the [[Regular maintenance intervals and consumables|'''Regular maintenance intervals and consumables''']] wiki article.

@@ Line 535: / Line 535: @@
 {{Edited}}
-[[Category:Modifications]]
+[[Category:Modifications - gen3]]
-[[Category:Howto]]
+[[Category:Howto - gen3]]

@@ Line 269: / Line 269: @@
 ** Therefore, and air purge from the brake system will probably be necessary.
 *** Why not change the entire brake fluid at the same occasion.
-* Required oil specifications and quantities are written in the [[Regular maintenance consumables|'''Regular maintenance consumables''']] wiki article.
+* Required oil specifications and quantities are written in the [[Regular maintenance intervals and consumables|'''Regular maintenance intervals and consumables''']] wiki article.

@@ Line 269: / Line 269: @@
 ** Therefore, and air purge from the brake system will probably be necessary.
 *** Why not change the entire brake fluid at the same occasion.
-* Required oil specifications and quantities are written in the [[Forecourt|'''"Forecourt"''']] wiki article.
+* Required oil specifications and quantities are written in the [[Regular maintenance consumables|'''Regular maintenance consumables''']] wiki article.

@@ Line 157: / Line 157: @@
-The retrofit procedure is relatively simple (essentially mostly just bolting-unbolting activities). So no expert mechanical skills are required. The only issue which is likely to arise is encountering stuck bolts.
+The retrofit procedure is relatively simple (essentially mostly just bolting-unbolting activities). So no expert mechanical skills are required. The only issue which is likely to arise is encountering stuck/seized bolts.
 {{note|In some countries a vehicle recertification might be required after the retrofit, because the weight on the front axle has increased and/or because total vehicle weight has increased.}}
@@ Line 354: / Line 357: @@
-In order to maximize the chances of unscrewing (many) old stuck bolts:
+In order to maximize the chances of unscrewing (many) old stuck/seized bolts:
 * It is recommended to spray all the bolts which are to be unscrewed with a good anti sieze "WD40-alike" chemical, or a deep freeze effect chemical.
 * This should be preferably done at least 12 hours before starting any work, to leave the time for the fluid to penetrate deep in the treads.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:00, 26 July 2018
Line 341:		Line 341:
	* The wiki article [[Tyre selection and usage - best practices\|'''"Tyre selection and usage - best practices"''']] contains a lot of useful info on tyre sizes.		* The wiki article [[Tyre selection and usage - best practices\|'''"Tyre selection and usage - best practices"''']] contains a lot of useful info on tyre sizes.

		+
		+	* Note: If you put a wider tyre than the factory width of 175 on a spare tyre position on a 2WD-only Jimny, you need to shorten the rubber tyre "cushions" / spacers on the rear door, because they are longer than on a 4WD Jimny (to properly reach a narrow 175 tyre).
		+

	== Retrofitment guide ==		== Retrofitment guide ==

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:38, 25 July 2018
Line 158:		Line 158:

	The retrofit procedure is relatively simple (essentially mostly just bolting-unbolting activities). So no expert mechanical skills are required. The only issue which is likely to arise is encountering stuck bolts.		The retrofit procedure is relatively simple (essentially mostly just bolting-unbolting activities). So no expert mechanical skills are required. The only issue which is likely to arise is encountering stuck bolts.
		+
		+	{{note\|In some countries a vehicle recertification might be required after the retrofit, because the weight on the front axle has increased and/or because total vehicle weight has increased.}}

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:44, 25 July 2018
Line 85:		Line 85:
	* Vacuum system (pipes, solenoids, tank, etc.) for the front wheel hub heads.		* Vacuum system (pipes, solenoids, tank, etc.) for the front wheel hub heads.
	* 4WD controller computer.		* 4WD controller computer.
		+
		+
		+	== 2WD-only Jimny transmission and suspension pictures ==
		+
		+
		+	<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px" class="center" caption="Dummy transfer case, close-up">
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - A01.jpg\|View from the front side of the vehicle
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - A02.jpg\|View from the right side of the vehicle
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - A03.jpg\|View from the left side of the vehicle
		+	</gallery>
		+
		+	* Notice the absence of a connector for the front propeller shaft (toward the front differential).
		+	* Notice a set of wires connected to the transfer case - that's probably just for the speedometer.
		+
		+
		+
		+	<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px" class="center" caption="Dummy transfer case and surroundings">
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - A04.jpg\|View from the front side of the vehicle
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - A05.jpg\|The transfer box and the gear box
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - transfer case - A06.jpg\|View at the rear part of the vehicle
		+	</gallery>
		+
		+	* Notice the absence of the front propeller shaft.
		+	* Notice that the rear section of the vehicle's underbody is the same as in a proper 4WD Jimny.
		+
		+
		+	<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px" class="center" caption="Gear box">
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - gear box - A01.jpg\|View from the right side of the vehicle
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - gear box - A02.jpg\|View from the front side of the vehicle
		+	</gallery>
		+
		+	* The gear box should be the same as in proper 4WD Jimnys from the same era.
		+
		+
		+	<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px" class="center" caption="Front axle, center part">
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - front axle, center part - A01.jpg\|Complete overview of the front axle
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - front axle, center part - A02.jpg\|Close-up on the center section
		+	</gallery>
		+
		+	* Notice the complete absence of the front differential case.
		+	* The front axle is just a single-piece hollow tube - called a "dead solid axle".
		+
		+
		+	<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px" class="center" caption="Front axle, at front wheel hub connection">
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - front axle, at front left wheel side - A01.jpg\|Front left wheel
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - front axle, at front right wheel side - A01.jpg\|Front right wheel
		+	</gallery>
		+
		+	* Everything on the pictures is exactly the same as in 4WD Jimnys.
		+	* Exceptions:
		+	** The lack of vacuum pipes for the front wheel hub heads;
		+	** No connections for the vacuum pipes on the front wheel hubs;
		+	** No ABS sensors on the front wheel hubs (although some 4WD Jimnys also lack ABS);
		+
		+
		+	<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px" class="center" caption="Front axle, at front wheel hub connection - close-up">
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - front axle, at front left wheel side - A02.jpg\|Front left wheel
		+	File:Suzuki Jimny - 2WD-only edition - front axle, at front right wheel side - A02.jpg\|Front right wheel
		+	</gallery>

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:55, 23 July 2018
Line 363:		Line 363:

	=== Installing new 4WD transmission elements ===		=== Installing new 4WD transmission elements ===
		+
		+
		+	* It is recommended to tighten every bolt to a factory specified torque value.
		+	* Some of the bolt tightening torque values can be found in the [[Torque\|"Torque"]] wiki article.
		+	* It is also recommended to smear a bit of copper grease onto every bolt tread before tightening, in order to prevent its future seizure.