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https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Accessories_for_Jimny_(genuine_Suzuki)&diff=10018
Accessories for Jimny (genuine Suzuki)
2024-02-12T15:09:16Z
<p>Bosanek: Added another accessory for Jimny 3</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Through the use of additional accessories, an enthusiastic vehicle owner can maximize the use of their Jimny.<br />
* The purpose of some accessories is pure fashion, while some others have quite useful utilitarian purpose. Some are good for both.<br />
* Therefore, it can be very useful to have a compiled list of all genuine accessories for Jimnys.<br />
* Once the original Suzuki part number of a desired accessory is known, it can be searched for in various Internet shops, Internet forums, or queried directly from Suzuki's dealers.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Common notes about accessories ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Some accessories have been produced only in a certain time period or just for a certain market.<br />
* Many older accessories are no longer promoted on Suzuki's official web sites or in current publications (brochures, catalogues, etc.).<br />
* Also, some accessories are promoted only in certain countries, without a particular reason.<br />
* Older Suzuki's publications (accessories brochures) are rather hard to find on the Internet.<br />
** There are sellers on Ebay who sell those brochures for a price.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny 3 accessories ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Suzuki has "made" a lot of additional accessories for Jimnys 3 during its 20 year production lifespan.<br />
* Not all accessories are compatible with every Jimny 3 revision.<br />
* Example reason is because there have been three different front bumper revisions / generations on Jimnys.<br />
* Therefore, any front bumper related accessory usually fits only one intended front bumper generation.<br />
<br />
<br />
Because of all the reasons mentioned above, it is quite hard to compile a definitive list of all genuine accessories for all Jimnys 3, older and newer.<br />
<br />
<br />
Forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 ''Bosanek''] managed to compile quite a large list / table of genuine Suzuki Jimny 3 accessories.<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is the link to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12Ja5S_GzVfaaDSaSyphHCwCd2A5qu_LBWpvr0vbP2bU/pubhtml?gid=667693276&single=true '''table of genuine Suzuki Jimny accessories'''].<br />
<br />
* The table is still of course incomplete, but it is the best known compilation in existence;<br />
* The pictures for most items in the table are pending to be added soon.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other readers are quite welcome to contribute to the table.<br />
* However, the table is currently a separate read-only document to the public.<br />
* It would take a lot of work to convert it into a wiki-document.<br />
* Therefore, any contributor is kindly asked to contact forum user Forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 ''Bosanek''] with the new information, so that he can add it into the table.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Notable aftermarket Jimny 3 accessories ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* German manufacturer ClimAir allegedly actually makes the tailored sunshade set for Suzuki, which Suzuki sells as its P.N. 990E0-81A00-001.<br />
** ClimAir sells its product in the aftermarket as [https://shop.climair.de/sonniboy-sonnenschutz-fuer-suzuki-jimny-typ-fj-3-door-2005-2018-fuer-hintere-seitenscheiben-und-heckfenster CLI0078338BC].<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny 4 accessories ==<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Catalogues ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* [https://market.suzuki-club.ru/catalogs/katalogi-aksessuarov-katalog-aksessuarov-new-jimny-2019.html OEM accessories catalogue] for the Russian market;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Individual OEM accessories ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Inner rear wheel arch liners:<br />
* Rear left position P.N.: 990NP78R4000L<br />
** [https://market.suzuki-club.ru/products/SUZUKI/990NP78R4000L.html Source 1]<br />
* Rear right position P.N.: 990NP78R4000R<br />
** [https://market.suzuki-club.ru/products/SUZUKI/990NP78R4000R.html Source 1]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Brazilian market ===<br />
<br />
==== General info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki in Brazil offers several accessories through its dealers.<br />
* Some of those accessories are bundled in "kits".<br />
* Suzuki part numbers in Brazil do not follow international numbering. <br />
** By observation, in general sense XXXXX-BPA00-000 denotes original Suzuki parts and CAPAXXXX refers to third-party components endorsed by Suzuki.<br />
<br />
* [https://www.suzukiveiculos.com.br/docs/digitalcatalogojimnysierrar2.pdf Link to the PDF brochure]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Kits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
1) Style - PN 90348-BPA00-000<br />
* Door trim (rubber)<br />
* Snorkel<br />
* Vinyl Spare wheel cover<br />
* Roof rack<br />
* Trailer hitch w/wiring<br />
<br />
<br />
2) Comfort - PN 90347-BPA00-000<br />
* Automatic door lock<br />
* Alarm<br />
* Anti-theft nuts for wheels (5)<br />
* Windows auto-closing on door lock<br />
<br />
<br />
3) Adventure - PN 90349-BPA00-000<br />
<br />
<br />
* MTR Tyres (4) - Scorpion MTR 215/75 R15 on present day (Nov/2020)<br />
* 50 mm Lift, includes rear hoses<br />
* Front differential axle guard<br />
* Transmission guard<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Individual accessories ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Main wheels anti-theft nuts: PN 90296-BPA00-000<br />
* Door trim (rubber): PN 90295-BPA00-000<br />
* Spare wheel anti-theft nut: PN 99930-BEG00-000<br />
* Alarm: PN 90322-BPA00-000<br />
* Organizer: PN CAPA3159<br />
* Surfboard rack: PN CAPA1999 - it is Thule SUP Taxi XT<br />
* Bike rack: PN CAPA1996 - it is Thule Outrider<br />
* Trailer hitch: PN 90303-BPA00-00<br />
** It is different of the one sold on international markets.<br />
*** Receiver is 50 mmm square.<br />
** It includes wiring harness CAPA3184 which is the same as sold on international markets.<br />
** Hitch spares are available and they have independent part numbers.<br />
* Automatic door lock: PN 90323-BPA00-000<br />
* Vinyl spare wheel cover: Several PN for 195/80 R15 and 215/80 R15 tyre sizes.<br />
* Roof cargo baskets: PN CAPA2000 (small); PN CAPA2001 (large).<br />
** Those are Thule Trail baskets.<br />
* Soft cargo boxes: PN CAPA1995 (same as Thule Ranger 90).<br />
* Snorkel: PN 90316-BPA00-000<br />
* Digital TV upgrade for JBL media center: PN CAPA3186 for One Seg; PN CAPA3187 for Full Seg<br />
* Subwoofer: PN CAPA1989<br />
* Windows anti-pinch safety system: PN 90321-BPA00-000<br />
* Bike Front axle bike adapter: PN CAPA2002 / PN CAPA2003 / PN CAPA2004.<br />
** Those are Thule adapters.<br />
** PN varies with the type of bike axle (15mm, 20mm, Lefty).<br />
* 50 mm suspension lift: PN 90331-BPA00-000<br />
** Needs Rear axle hose (below),<br />
* Rear axle hose: PN 51560-81A00-000<br />
* Front differential axle guard PN 90342-BPA00-000<br />
* Rear differential axle guard: PN 90315-BPA00-000<br />
* Transmission guard: PN 90314-BPA00-000<br />
* Rear camera: PN 90356-BPA00-000<br />
** Install at top of rear door, to the right of brake light.<br />
* Bike rack: PN CAPA2005.<br />
** It is a Thule ProRide<br />
* Roof tent: Several PNs depending on size/capacity.<br />
** Includes ladder, 12Vdc and 110/220Vac wiring and lightining.<br />
** Manufacturer unknown - looks like to be Camping's World (https://www.campingsworld.com.br/barracas-automotivas/)<br />
* Roof rack: PN 90351-BPA00-000 - Original Suzuki?<br />
* Roof rack: PN 90299-BPA00-000 - Thule Evo WingBar + 951 or 952 raingutter feets<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Accessories - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Reference Data - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Accessories - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Reference Data - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Accessories_for_Jimny_(genuine_Suzuki)&diff=10017
Accessories for Jimny (genuine Suzuki)
2024-02-12T15:02:13Z
<p>Bosanek: Typo</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Through the use of additional accessories, an enthusiastic vehicle owner can maximize the use of their Jimny.<br />
* The purpose of some accessories is pure fashion, while some others have quite useful utilitarian purpose. Some are good for both.<br />
* Therefore, it can be very useful to have a compiled list of all genuine accessories for Jimnys.<br />
* Once the original Suzuki part number of a desired accessory is known, it can be searched for in various Internet shops, Internet forums, or queried directly from Suzuki's dealers.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Common notes about accessories ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Some accessories have been produced only in a certain time period or just for a certain market.<br />
* Many older accessories are no longer promoted on Suzuki's official web sites or in current publications (brochures, catalogues, etc.).<br />
* Also, some accessories are promoted only in certain countries, without a particular reason.<br />
* Older Suzuki's publications (accessories brochures) are rather hard to find on the Internet.<br />
** There are sellers on Ebay who sell those brochures for a price.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny 3 accessories ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Suzuki has "made" a lot of additional accessories for Jimnys 3 during its 20 year production lifespan.<br />
* Not all accessories are compatible with every Jimny 3 revision.<br />
* Example reason is because there have been three different front bumper revisions / generations on Jimnys.<br />
* Therefore, any front bumper related accessory usually fits only one intended front bumper generation.<br />
<br />
<br />
Because of all the reasons mentioned above, it is quite hard to compile a definitive list of all genuine accessories for all Jimnys 3, older and newer.<br />
<br />
<br />
Forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 ''Bosanek''] managed to compile quite a large list / table of genuine Suzuki Jimny 3 accessories.<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is the link to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12Ja5S_GzVfaaDSaSyphHCwCd2A5qu_LBWpvr0vbP2bU/pubhtml?gid=667693276&single=true '''table of genuine Suzuki Jimny accessories'''].<br />
<br />
* The table is still of course incomplete, but it is the best known compilation in existence;<br />
* The pictures for most items in the table are pending to be added soon.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other readers are quite welcome to contribute to the table.<br />
* However, the table is currently a separate read-only document to the public.<br />
* It would take a lot of work to convert it into a wiki-document.<br />
* Therefore, any contributor is kindly asked to contact forum user Forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 ''Bosanek''] with the new information, so that he can add it into the table.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny 4 accessories ==<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Catalogues ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* [https://market.suzuki-club.ru/catalogs/katalogi-aksessuarov-katalog-aksessuarov-new-jimny-2019.html OEM accessories catalogue] for the Russian market;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Individual OEM accessories ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Inner rear wheel arch liners:<br />
* Rear left position P.N.: 990NP78R4000L<br />
** [https://market.suzuki-club.ru/products/SUZUKI/990NP78R4000L.html Source 1]<br />
* Rear right position P.N.: 990NP78R4000R<br />
** [https://market.suzuki-club.ru/products/SUZUKI/990NP78R4000R.html Source 1]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Brazilian market ===<br />
<br />
==== General info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki in Brazil offers several accessories through its dealers.<br />
* Some of those accessories are bundled in "kits".<br />
* Suzuki part numbers in Brazil do not follow international numbering. <br />
** By observation, in general sense XXXXX-BPA00-000 denotes original Suzuki parts and CAPAXXXX refers to third-party components endorsed by Suzuki.<br />
<br />
* [https://www.suzukiveiculos.com.br/docs/digitalcatalogojimnysierrar2.pdf Link to the PDF brochure]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Kits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
1) Style - PN 90348-BPA00-000<br />
* Door trim (rubber)<br />
* Snorkel<br />
* Vinyl Spare wheel cover<br />
* Roof rack<br />
* Trailer hitch w/wiring<br />
<br />
<br />
2) Comfort - PN 90347-BPA00-000<br />
* Automatic door lock<br />
* Alarm<br />
* Anti-theft nuts for wheels (5)<br />
* Windows auto-closing on door lock<br />
<br />
<br />
3) Adventure - PN 90349-BPA00-000<br />
<br />
<br />
* MTR Tyres (4) - Scorpion MTR 215/75 R15 on present day (Nov/2020)<br />
* 50 mm Lift, includes rear hoses<br />
* Front differential axle guard<br />
* Transmission guard<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Individual accessories ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Main wheels anti-theft nuts: PN 90296-BPA00-000<br />
* Door trim (rubber): PN 90295-BPA00-000<br />
* Spare wheel anti-theft nut: PN 99930-BEG00-000<br />
* Alarm: PN 90322-BPA00-000<br />
* Organizer: PN CAPA3159<br />
* Surfboard rack: PN CAPA1999 - it is Thule SUP Taxi XT<br />
* Bike rack: PN CAPA1996 - it is Thule Outrider<br />
* Trailer hitch: PN 90303-BPA00-00<br />
** It is different of the one sold on international markets.<br />
*** Receiver is 50 mmm square.<br />
** It includes wiring harness CAPA3184 which is the same as sold on international markets.<br />
** Hitch spares are available and they have independent part numbers.<br />
* Automatic door lock: PN 90323-BPA00-000<br />
* Vinyl spare wheel cover: Several PN for 195/80 R15 and 215/80 R15 tyre sizes.<br />
* Roof cargo baskets: PN CAPA2000 (small); PN CAPA2001 (large).<br />
** Those are Thule Trail baskets.<br />
* Soft cargo boxes: PN CAPA1995 (same as Thule Ranger 90).<br />
* Snorkel: PN 90316-BPA00-000<br />
* Digital TV upgrade for JBL media center: PN CAPA3186 for One Seg; PN CAPA3187 for Full Seg<br />
* Subwoofer: PN CAPA1989<br />
* Windows anti-pinch safety system: PN 90321-BPA00-000<br />
* Bike Front axle bike adapter: PN CAPA2002 / PN CAPA2003 / PN CAPA2004.<br />
** Those are Thule adapters.<br />
** PN varies with the type of bike axle (15mm, 20mm, Lefty).<br />
* 50 mm suspension lift: PN 90331-BPA00-000<br />
** Needs Rear axle hose (below),<br />
* Rear axle hose: PN 51560-81A00-000<br />
* Front differential axle guard PN 90342-BPA00-000<br />
* Rear differential axle guard: PN 90315-BPA00-000<br />
* Transmission guard: PN 90314-BPA00-000<br />
* Rear camera: PN 90356-BPA00-000<br />
** Install at top of rear door, to the right of brake light.<br />
* Bike rack: PN CAPA2005.<br />
** It is a Thule ProRide<br />
* Roof tent: Several PNs depending on size/capacity.<br />
** Includes ladder, 12Vdc and 110/220Vac wiring and lightining.<br />
** Manufacturer unknown - looks like to be Camping's World (https://www.campingsworld.com.br/barracas-automotivas/)<br />
* Roof rack: PN 90351-BPA00-000 - Original Suzuki?<br />
* Roof rack: PN 90299-BPA00-000 - Thule Evo WingBar + 951 or 952 raingutter feets<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Accessories - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Reference Data - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Accessories - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Reference Data - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10012
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-15T09:38:23Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a link</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Many of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="400px" heights="300px" class=center caption="Examples of locking wheel nut designs"><br />
File:Locking wheel nut design A - A01.jpg| Design A - note the outer grooves on the nuts<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design B - A01.jpg| Design B<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design C - A01.jpg| Design C - note the outer ring<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
{{note|Any of the products listed below should suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== OEM ===<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* It is actually made in Italy by [https://www.faradworld.com/en/chi-siamo.html Farad], model name [https://www.faradworld.com/en/1308-antifurto-per-ruote-starlock-1-chiave.html <font face="Courier">1-RA/E STAR LOCK 1CH</font>].<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Aftermarket ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# Trilock<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* [https://e-tech.uk.com/key-trilock Manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
#** However, their locking nut sets can be found online for Jimnys, but have no part numbers to differentiate them.<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10011
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-15T09:36:52Z
<p>Bosanek: Typo</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Many of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="400px" heights="300px" class=center caption="Examples of locking wheel nut designs"><br />
File:Locking wheel nut design A - A01.jpg| Design A - note the outer grooves on the nuts<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design B - A01.jpg| Design B<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design C - A01.jpg| Design C - note the outer ring<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
{{note|Any of the products listed below should suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== OEM ===<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* It is actually made in Italy by Farad, model name [https://www.faradworld.com/en/1308-antifurto-per-ruote-starlock-1-chiave.html <font face="Courier">1-RA/E STAR LOCK 1CH</font>].<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Aftermarket ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# Trilock<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* [https://e-tech.uk.com/key-trilock Manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
#** However, their locking nut sets can be found online for Jimnys, but have no part numbers to differentiate them.<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10010
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-15T09:30:30Z
<p>Bosanek: Added more products to the list</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Many of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="400px" heights="300px" class=center caption="Examples of locking wheel nut designs"><br />
File:Locking wheel nut design A - A01.jpg| Design A - note the outer grooves on the nuts<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design B - A01.jpg| Design B<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design C - A01.jpg| Design C - note the outer ring<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
{{note|Any of the products listed below should suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== OEM ===<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* It is actually made in Italy by Farad, model name [https://www.faradworld.com/it/1308-antifurto-per-ruote-starlock-1-chiave.html <font face="Courier">1-RA/E STAR LOCK 1CH</font>].<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Aftermarket ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# Trilock<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* [https://e-tech.uk.com/key-trilock Manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
#** However, their locking nut sets can be found online for Jimnys, but have no part numbers to differentiate them.<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Front_fog_lamps&diff=10009
Front fog lamps
2023-02-14T11:32:51Z
<p>Bosanek: Added more OEM part numbers of other vehicle manufacturers for Valeo fog lamp 89210094</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* If your vehicle already has working front fog lamps (in the front bumper) installed from the factory, you don't need to read this article.<br />
** Enjoy life instead.<br />
* If you don't have factory-fitted front fog lamps, read this article to get acquainted with all compatible parts and options for installing them.<br />
** Possible parts sources might be brand new parts from your Suzuki dealer, or from a local vehicle junkyard (taken from a dead Jimny).<br />
<br />
<br />
* This article has several references to Jimny "types" (factory model revisions throughout its production lifetime).<br />
** The wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and Owners Guides'''"]] contains proper explanations on what each Jimny "type" represents.<br />
<br />
<br />
* As far as it is known, all Jimnys 4 have front fog lamps fitted as standard equipment.<br />
** Therefore, this article contains instructions on retrofitting fog lamps only for Jimnys 3.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|This article has been written by a single person, based on original research into the vast universe of various Suzuki accessories brochures, parts catalogues, info from various forums etc.<br>Great effort has been performed to double-check every info, but the topics of required and mutually compatible parts are so complex with so many variations over Jimny 3's 20 year production lifespan, that no guarantees on the accuracy of the written data can be made.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Principle of operation ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Factory wiring setup for the front fog lamps is made in such a way that front fog lamps illuminate ONLY when the head lamps are ON as well.<br />
** This means that the front fog lamps will not turn ON even if the in-cabin switch for front fog lamps is pushed IN, until the head lamps are turned ON as well.<br />
* It is not possible to control the operation of each front fog lamp (left and right) independently.<br />
** It's either both OFF or both ON.<br />
** This also means that no fog lamp turns ON automatically when you steer hard on a street corner, like in some fancy modern vehicles.<br />
* If you don't like these restrictions, then you will have to make some custom wiring modifications.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Don't be an idiot and use the fog lamps in non-foggy weather while other participants in traffic are present. Fog lamps are designed to "punch" light through fog. Therefore, they dazzle other drivers and pedestrians (and their precious pets) when there is no fog in between!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Required parts ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
Main notes:<br />
* The exact required parts depend on which front bumper revision you have.<br />
** In some cases, it also depends on the exact model production "type" and/or if the vehicle has a petrol or diesel engine;<br />
* There have been three distinct front bumper revisions throughout the production lifetime of Jimny 3.<br />
** See the wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for some details on front bumper revisions.<br />
* Read the detailed notes about parts compatibility in the corresponding chapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
You need to obtain the following:<br />
# A pair of fog lamps;<br />
# A pair of mounting brackets;<br />
#* Exception is if you have the newest (3rd model) front bumper revision - it has integrated brackets.<br />
# A rectangular button / switch for the driver's console;<br />
# Possibly the wiring (preferably original cables with connectors etc.);<br />
#* Your vehicle might already have the required wiring.<br />
# Possibly some more electrics like a relay, a fuse etc.;<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|In the case of 1st and 2nd model front bumper, you will have to cut out plastic blanks in the fog lamp openings in the front bumper. That operation is irreversible. You could glue the blanks back if you abandon the project, but it will hardly look virgin again. Therefore, it is recommended to obtain all the required parts (especially the electrics), and test-wire everything first before you finally cut the bumper and mount the lamps.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can get all these parts separately or as a complete upgrade set. The chapters below contain info on part numbers of complete sets, as well as of individual components.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Complete retrofit sets ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
Each of these sets should contain every big and little piece and part which might be needed to successfully install a pair of front fog lamps in a Jimny which has never had them. Not every set is compatible with every Jimny 3 revision / type, so read the notes carefully.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== For Jimny 3 types 1-5 (with '''1st''' model front bumper) ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Set P.N. 99000-990YZ-011 ====<br />
<br />
<br />
This is the oldest upgrade set ever offered. It contains the same parts which were originally used for 1st model front bumpers as a factory installation. <br />
<br />
<br />
* This set is compatible with Jimnys 3 type 1-4, but '''not''' with type 5.<br />
** Type 5 is a "transitional" production edition from 2005 with 1st model front bumper but with 2nd edition interior and electric 4WD controls.<br />
** The probable reason why it is not compatible with type 5 (although the front bumper is the same across types 1-5) is that the wiring might be different.<br />
* This complete upgrade set might not be available from Suzuki anymore, because they usually offer a "revised" set for 1st model front bumpers (see the next set below).<br />
** If the complete set is not available, perhaps some individual parts might be, or you could scavenge the entire set from a dead Jimny 3.<br />
<br />
<br />
This set includes:<br />
# A pair of fog lamps model <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font>;<br />
# A pair of mounting brackets model <font face="courier">35526-81A01</font>; <br />
# Fog lamp surrounding bezels model <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B03</font> (for left side) and <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B04</font> (for right side);<br />
#* These are used for the "flush" cosmetic fitting of the fog lamps into the holes in the front bumper;<br />
#* However, it makes no sense to include any bezels for fitting the fog lamp model <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font> to 1st model front bumper, because that fog lamp model is designed to fit flush on its own in that bumper model!<br />
#** Proof: See the pictures in the chapter [[#Pictures of lamps and brackets in bumpers|'''"Pictures of lamps and brackets in bumpers"''']].<br />
#** Therefore, the info from Suzuki diagrams about the inclusion of these bezels with these fog lamps might be erroneous!<br />
# Wiring harness for the engine bay (connection to the fog lamps), OEM P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A05</font>;<br />
#* Includes a fuse;<br />
# Wiring harness for the cabin console (connection to the in-cabin button / switch), OEM P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A06</font>;<br />
# Relay P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A07</font>;<br />
# In-cabin button / switch P.N. <font face="courier">37270-75F10</font>;<br />
# Various small bits (screws, nuts, bolts, clamps, ties, etc).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Set P.N. 99000-990YZ-035 ====<br />
<br />
<br />
This appears to be a newer "revised" set which replaced the previous set described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This set is stated to be compatible only with Jimnys 3 type 1-4, but '''not''' with type 5.<br />
** Type 5 is a "transitional" production edition from 2005 with 1st model front bumper but with 2nd edition interior and electric 4WD controls.<br />
** The probable reason why it is not compatible with type 5 (although the front bumper is the same across types 1-5) is that the wiring might be different.<br />
* Suzuki's OEM accessory catalogues as old as 2006 already offer only this set for Jimnys 3 type 1-4 with 1st. model front bumper, and have no mention of the previous set described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
According to the pictures from a report from a German forum, this set appears to contain the following:<br />
# A pair of fog lamps produced by Cibie (owned by Valeo), model <font face="courier">026719</font>;<br />
# A pair of brackets (P.N. <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font> for left side and <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font> for right side) to mount it to a 1st model front bumper.<br />
# A pair of surrounding bezels for flush cosmetic fitting in the holes in the front bumper (P.N. <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font>);<br />
# One in-cabin button / switch (P.N. <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font>);<br />
# Wiring harness (P.N. <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font>);<br />
# Fuse;<br />
# Various small bits (screws, nuts, bolts, clamps, ties, etc).<br />
<br />
<br />
* The reason for the inclusion of the bezels for the front bumper is that the included fog lamps do not fit "flush" cosmetically in the holes of a 1st model front bumper (they were not originally designed for it), so the bezels correct that.<br />
<br />
<br />
For diesel type 4 vehicles (with 48 kW engine and mechanically operated 4WD transmission), the following are additionally required:<br />
* A relay <font face="courier">95572-63C00-000</font> (1 piece);<br />
* An adapter cable <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-C13</font> (2 pieces);<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=300 class=center caption="Complete front fog lamp upgrade set 99000-990YZ-035"><br />
Suzuki Jimny - Front fog lamp set - 99000-990YZ-035 - A01.jpg|Official advertising image<br />
Suzuki Jimny - Front fog lamp set - 99000-990YZ-035 - B01.jpg|All the contents of the set<br />
Suzuki Jimny - Front fog lamp set - 99000-990YZ-035 - B02.jpg|Fog lamp and bracket - front view<br />
Suzuki Jimny - Front fog lamp set - 99000-990YZ-035 - B03.jpg|Fog lamp and bracket - rear view<br />
Suzuki Jimny - Front fog lamp set - 99000-990YZ-035 - B04.jpg|Fog lamp bezels for flush cosmetic fitting in bumper holes<br />
Suzuki Jimny - Front fog lamp set - 99000-990YZ-035 - B05.jpg|Small parts - switch, fuse, screws, etc.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
==== Set P.N. 990E0-76J10-000 ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suffix "-000" should be omitted in some searches.<br />
* It is ''assumed'' (but not verified!) that this set contains a pair of front fog lamps, a pair of brackets, a pair of bezels, one in-cabin switch, wiring, relay, fuse and some screws.<br />
* It is ''assumed'' (but not verified!) that the included fog lamp model is either <font face="courier">35500-63J04</font> or Cibie <font face="courier">026719</font>.<br />
* This set is officially only for Jimnys 3 type 5.<br />
** Type 5 is a "transitional" production edition from 2005 with 1st model front bumper but with 2nd edition interior and electric 4WD controls.<br />
** The probable reason why it is not compatible with types 1-4 (although the front bumper is the same across types 1-5) is that the wiring might be different.<br />
** It is ''assumed'' (but not verified!) that the lamps, brackets and bezels in this set are the same as in the set <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-035</font>, but that the wiring is different.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== For Jimny 3 types 6-8 (with '''2nd''' model front bumper) ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Set P.N. 990E0-84A02-000 ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Suffix "-000" should be omitted in some searches.<br />
<br />
<br />
This set includes:<br />
# A pair of fog lamps model <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font>;<br />
#* It has not been verified what character behind "x" in the part number exactly is.<br />
#** It is most probably "4" (<font face="courier">35500-63J04</font>), but it could also be "0", "2", "3", ...<br />
# A pair of mounting brackets - left model <font face="courier">35566-84A00</font> and right model <font face="courier">35526-84A00</font>; <br />
# Wiring harness <font face="courier">36813-84A00</font>;<br />
#* This harness represents section "Wiring 4" from the DIY diagram below - between the engine bay and the lamps themselves;<br />
# In-cabin button / switch (P.N. <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font>, probably <font face="courier">37270-76J00</font>);<br />
# Various small bits (screws, bolts, etc).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=300 class=center caption="Complete front fog lamp upgrade set 990E0-84A02-000"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 990E0-84A02-000 - front fog lamp upgrade kit, for 2nd model front bumper - A01.jpg|All parts of the set<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 990E0-84A02-000 - front fog lamp upgrade kit, for 2nd model front bumper - A02.jpg|Lamps<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 990E0-84A02-000 - front fog lamp upgrade kit, for 2nd model front bumper - A03.jpg|One of the brackets and instruction manual<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 990E0-84A02-000 - front fog lamp upgrade kit, for 2nd model front bumper - A04.jpg|Wiring and in-cabin switch<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== For Jimny 3 types 9-12, (with '''3rd''' model front bumper) ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Set P.N. 990E0-57M51-000 ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suffix "-000" should be omitted in some searches, and in some other catalogues it is listed with the suffix "-010".<br />
** The difference between suffixes is probably in the languages in which the included paper instruction manual is written.<br />
<br />
<br />
This set includes:<br />
# A pair of fog lamps model <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font>;<br />
#* It has not been verified what character behind "x" in the part number exactly is.<br />
#** It is most probably "4" (<font face="courier">35500-63J04</font>), but it could also be "0", "2", "3", ...<br />
# No mounting brackets are included;<br />
#* This is because 3rd model front bumper has integrated front fog lamp brackets specifically for front fog lamps <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font>;<br />
# Two pieces of wiring harness <font face="courier">36813-57M00</font> (one for each fog lamp);<br />
#* This harness represents section "Wiring 4" from the DIY diagram below - between the engine bay and the lamps themselves;<br />
# In-cabin button / switch (P.N. <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font>, probably <font face="courier">37270-76J00</font>);<br />
# Various small bits (screws, bolts, etc).<br />
<br />
<br />
== "Fog lamp + bracket" combos ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Combo set <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B01</font> + <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B02</font> ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Fog lamp model <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font> and bracket model <font face="courier">35526-81A01</font> are available in a combo set P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B01</font> (for the left side) and <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B02</font> (for the right side).<br />
** It is not known why there are two differently named sets (specifically for each side), since both the contained fog lamp and bracket models fit any side equally.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=296 class=center caption="Fog lamp P.N. 35500-74F50 with bracket P.N. 35526-81A01, taken from 1st model front bumper"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 + 35526-81A01 - fog lamp + bracket - A01.jpg|Front view<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 + 35526-81A01 - fog lamp + bracket - A02.jpg|Rear view<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Lamp Cibie <font face="courier">026719</font> with its dedicated bracket ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=300 class=center caption="Fog lamp Cibie 026719 with bracket (unknown P.N.), taken from 1st model front bumper"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 & bracket (P.N. unknown), for 1st model front bumper - A01.jpg|Front view<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 & bracket (P.N. unknown), for 1st model front bumper - A02.jpg|Rear view<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 & bracket (P.N. unknown), for 1st model front bumper - B01.jpg|Bran' spankin' new, side by side<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Lamp <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font> with brackets <font face="courier">35566-84A00</font> and <font face="courier">35526-84A00</font> ===<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=568 heights=320 class=center caption="Fog lamp P.N. 35500-63J04 with brackets 35566-84A00 and 35526-84A00, taken from 2nd model front bumper"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-63J04 + 35566-84A00 + 35526-84A00 - fog lamp + brackets L+H - A01.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Parts compatibility ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
=== Separate parts ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* An alternative to buying entire fog lamp retrofit kits (usually from Suzuki dealers for a premium price) is to buy each required part separately.<br />
* This method can be much cheaper, especially if buying used items on a used items market or from a vehicle junkyard.<br />
* However, not each part (lamp, bracket, etc.) is mutually compatible nor compatible with each front bumper model.<br />
<br />
<br />
Known fog lamp models:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font>;<br />
# Cibie <font face="courier">026719</font>;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font>;<br />
#* This model has several "sub-models";<br />
#** More info is present in the dedicated chapter about lamps.<br />
<br />
<br />
Known lamp brackets / carriers:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">35526-81A01</font>;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">UNKNOWN</font>;<br />
#* Used exclusively with fog lamps Cibie <font face="courier">026719</font>;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">35566-81A30</font> + Suzuki <font face="courier">35526-81A30</font>;<br />
#* (Left model + right model);<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">35566-84A00</font> + Suzuki <font face="courier">35526-84A00</font>;<br />
#* (Left model + right model);<br />
<br />
<br />
Known lamp surrounding bezels:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B03</font> + <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-B04</font><br />
#* (Left model + right model);<br />
#* It is assumed (but not verified!) that these bezels are for use with fog lamps Cibie <font face="courier">026719</font> in 1st model front bumper ''and/or'' with fog lamps Suzuki <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font> in 1st model front bumper;<br />
# There could possibly exist one more bezel model for use with fog lamps Cibie <font face="courier">026719</font> in 1st model front bumper ''and/or'' with fog lamps Suzuki <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font> in 1st model front bumper;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">71761-57M10-5PK</font> + <font face="courier">71751-57M10-5PK</font>;<br />
#* (Left model + right model);<br />
<br />
<br />
Known wiring harnesses:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A05</font>;<br />
#* Used in the engine bay of Jimny 3 types 1-4;<br />
#* Includes a fuse;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A06</font>;<br />
#* Used behind the dash board of Jimny 3 types 1-4;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">36813-84A00</font>;<br />
#* Used between the engine bay and the fog lamps in Jimny 3 types 6-8;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">36813-57M00</font>;<br />
#* Used between the engine bay and the fog lamps in Jimny 3 types 9-12;<br />
<br />
<br />
Known wiring connector adapters:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">36813-54G20</font>;<br />
#* Used at the "fog lamp to wiring" ("Cable connector 5") connection point in case of some particular setup combinations;<br />
#* It has been determined that this wiring adapter is exactly the same (same connectors on both ends) as the wiring harness <font face="courier">36813-57M00</font>, except that the harness is a bit longer.<br />
#** Therefore, they are essentially interchangeable.<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-C13</font>;<br />
#* Used by DDiS Jimnys 3 type 4 only;<br />
<br />
<br />
Known el. relay models:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A07</font>;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">95572-63C00-000</font>;<br />
#* Used by DDiS Jimnys 3 type 4 only;<br />
<br />
<br />
Known in-cabin console switches:<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">37270-75F10</font>;<br />
# Suzuki <font face="courier">37270-76J00</font>;<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* The following few tables below serve to portray which official part combinations are possible.<br />
** In other words, use the tables below to determine which fog lamp model fits to which Jimny 3 type (front bumper model) when used with which bracket model and possibly with which lamp surrounding bezel model and possibly with which el. connector adapter.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For Jimny 3 types 1-5, with 1st model front bumper ====<br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+1st model front bumper vs. fog lamp official compatibility table<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Bracket<br>left side<br />
!Bracket<br>right side<br />
!Bezel<br>left side<br />
!Bezel<br>right side<br />
!El. connector<br>adapter<br />
!Comment<br />
|-<br />
|'''35500-74F50'''<br />
|35526-81A01<br />
|35526-81A01<br />
|None required<br />
|None required<br />
|None required<br />
|Standard setup<br />
|-<br />
|'''Cibie 026719'''<br />
|Required<br>Seen on pictures<br>P.N. unknown<br />
|Required<br>Seen on pictures<br>P.N. unknown<br />
|99000-990YZ-B03 ?<br />
|99000-990YZ-B04 ?<br />
|Probably required<br>Probably 36813-54G20<br />
|"Improved"<br>(more complicated)<br>setup<br />
|-<br />
|'''35500-63J00'''<br>'''35500-63J02'''<br>'''35500-63J04'''<br />
|35566-81A30<br />
|35526-81A30<br />
|99000-990YZ-B03 ?<br />
|99000-990YZ-B04 ?<br />
|36813-54G20<br />
|"Universal<br>retrofit"<br>setup<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
==== For Jimny 3 types 6-8, with 2nd model front bumper ====<br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+2nd model front bumper vs. fog lamp official compatibility table<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Bracket<br>left side<br />
!Bracket<br>right side<br />
!Bezel<br>left side<br />
!Bezel<br>right side<br />
!El. connector<br>adapter<br />
!Comment<br />
|-<br />
|'''35500-74F50'''<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Infeasible setup unless<br>custom brackets are made<br> and el. connections are soldered<br />
|-<br />
|'''Cibie 026719'''<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Probably not needed<br />
|Probably not needed<br />
|None required<br />
|Infeasible setup unless<br>custom brackets are made<br />
|-<br />
|'''35500-63J00'''<br>'''35500-63J02'''<br>'''35500-63J04'''<br />
|35566-84A00<br />
|35526-84A00<br />
|None required<br />
|None required<br />
|None required<br />
|Standard setup<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
==== For Jimny 3 types 9-12, with 3rd model front bumper ====<br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+3rd model front bumper vs. fog lamp official compatibility table<br />
!Lamp<br />
!Bracket<br>left side<br />
!Bracket<br>right side<br />
!Bezel<br>left side<br />
!Bezel<br>right side<br />
!El. connector<br>adapter<br />
!Comment<br />
|-<br />
|'''35500-74F50'''<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Infeasible setup unless<br>custom brackets are made<br> and el. connections are soldered<br />
|-<br />
|'''Cibie 026719'''<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Not produced<br />
|Probably not needed<br />
|Probably not needed<br />
|None required<br />
|Infeasible setup unless<br>custom brackets are made<br />
|-<br />
|'''35500-63J00'''<br>'''35500-63J02'''<br>'''35500-63J04'''<br />
|Already<br>integrated<br>into bumper<br />
|Already<br>integrated<br>into bumper<br />
|71761-57M10-5PK<br />
|71751-57M10-5PK<br />
|None required<br />
|Standard setup<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on lamps ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
=== Common notes ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* All front fog lamp models are built to suit both the left and the right mounting position in a front bumper.<br />
* As evident from the tables above, both the 2nd model and the 3rd model front bumper use the same fog lamps.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Notes on fog lamp model Suzuki 35500-74F50 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Fog lamp model Suzuki 35500-74F50 is actually produced by Stanley, model <font face="courier">010-2587</font>.<br />
** This fog lamp is used on several other vehicle models, so you can find it from other cars as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300 heights=400 class=center caption="Fog lamp model Suzuki 35500-74F50 / Stanley 010-2587"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 - fog lamp, front, for 1st model front bumper - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 - fog lamp, front, for 1st model front bumper - A02.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 - fog lamp, front, for 1st model front bumper - A03.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 - fog lamp, front, for 1st model front bumper - A04.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Notes on fog lamp model Cibie 026719 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Another fog lamp model which is often found on Jimnys with 1st model front bumper is produced by Cibie (division of Valeo), model <font face="courier">026719</font>.<br />
** It is not known under which official "OEM" / virtual Suzuki P.N. this fog lamp is catalogued.<br />
** It appears that this Cibie fog lamp is sometimes also referred by another Cibie P.N. <font face="courier">67721231</font>;<br />
** This fog lamp appears to be compatible only with 1st model front bumper, and it requires its own specific bracket to mount it to that bumper.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300 heights=300 class=center caption="Fog lamp Cibie 026719"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 - A02.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 - A03.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Cibie 026719 - A04.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Notes on fog lamp model Suzuki 35500-63J0x ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The following fog lamp models appear to have exactly the same dimensions, shape, bulb, el. connector and mounting points to the brackets:<br />
*# <font face="courier">35500-63J04</font> - "main" / standard edition from Suzuki (with exceptions below);<br />
*#* The actual fog lamp product under this Suzuki catalogue number is made by Valeo, P.N. <font face="courier">89210094</font>.<br />
*#** It appears that alternate catalogue P.N. for this fog lamp model is P.N. <font face="courier">088358</font>.<br />
*#*** Not stamped on the fog lamp itself, but stated in some catalogues as a "virtual" / formal catalogue Valeo number.<br />
*#** The same (or very similar) lamp is used by:<br />
*#**# Citroen & Peugeot (their OEM P.N.s <font face="courier">620639, 620662 & 6206E1</font>),<br />
*#**# Dacia & Renault (their OEM P.N. <font face="courier">8200074008</font>),<br />
*#**# Fiat (their OEM P.N.s <font face="courier">0000071768050, 0000071768537 & 71750482</font>),<br />
*#**# Ford (their OEM P.N.s <font face="courier">1209177, 2N11-15201-AB & 2N1115201AB</font>),<br />
*#**# Opel (their OEM P.N.s <font face="courier">09270157, 6710027 & 4700132</font>),<br />
*# <font face="courier">35500-63J03</font> - found on many European Jimnys from mid-2000s;<br />
*#* This is probably the older "main" edition which was superseded by the current "main" edition;<br />
*#* The actual fog lamp product under this Suzuki catalogue number is made by Valeo, P.N. <font face="courier">89210094</font> and/or <font face="courier">89206633</font>.<br />
*#** Two Valeo P.N.s are mentioned because both were factory stamped as well as this Suzuki P.N. on the actual fog lamp which was owned by a forum user. <br />
*# <font face="courier">35500-63J02</font> - meant for the African market;<br />
*# <font face="courier">35500-63J00</font> - used only in Jimnys 3 made by Santana in Spain;<br />
** The actual differences between all these fog lamp models are unknown - possibly beam pattern or clear / ribbed glass?<br />
** All these fog lamps can also be used in the 1st model front bumper with certain OEM brackets (mentioned elsewhere in the article), since that front bumper model has its own different "default" fog lamp model.<br />
** These same fog lamps are also used on some Suzuki Alto, Celerio, Vitara 2 (1998-2005), Swift and SX4 vehicle models.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=225 class=center caption="Fog lamp model Suzuki 35500-63J04 / Valeo 89210094"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Valeo 89210094 - unmounted - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp, front, Valeo 89210094 - unmounted - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on lamp mounting brackets (carriers) ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Brackets / carriers are required for mounting any fog lamp model to 1st and 2nd model front bumper.<br />
** The actual bracket model depends on the combination (see the tables above).<br />
* The 3rd model front bumper already has fog lamp brackets as its integral part.<br />
* Bracket model <font face="courier">35526-81A01</font> is the only model which is interchangeable between the left mounting side and the right mounting side.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=512 heights=341 class=center caption="Bracket model 35526-81A30"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35526-81A30 - bracket, for front fog lamp - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35526-81A30 - bracket, for front fog lamp - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=512 heights=341 class=center caption="Bracket model 35566-81A30"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35566-81A30 - bracket, for front fog lamp - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35566-81A30 - bracket, for front fog lamp - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=512 heights=288 class=center caption="Bracket model 35566-84A00"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35566-84A00 - bracket, for front fog lamp - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35566-84A00 - bracket, for front fog lamp - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=512 heights=288 class=center caption="3rd model front bumper - view from inside - enlarge the pictures and note the screw holes in the integrated front fog lamp brackets, to which the compatible fog lamps directly attach"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - front bumper, 3rd model - focus on integrated front fog lamp brackets - A01.jpg|Left part<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - front bumper, 3rd model - focus on integrated front fog lamp brackets - A02.jpg|Right part<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on lamp surrounding bezels ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* In some combinations (as indicated in the tables above), surrounding bezels are required to achieve nice "flush" cosmetic fitting of lamps inside the bumper holes.<br />
** Otherwise, there would be ugly gaps between the fog lamps and the bumper, which would make the setup look like an aftermarket improvisation.<br />
* 3rd model front bumper already comes with a pair of "blank" bezels attached in the place of fog lamps.<br />
** Left blank bezel P.N. is <font face="courier">71761-57M00-5PK</font> and right blank bezel P.N. is <font face="courier">71751-57M00-5PK</font>.<br />
** The "proper" fog lamp surrounding bezels look exactly like the "blank" bezels, but only with a pre-cut hole for the fog lamps.<br />
*** Left "proper" fog lamp surrounding bezel P.N. is <font face="courier">71761-57M10-5PK</font> and right bezel P.N. is <font face="courier">71751-57M10-5PK</font>.<br />
** Therefore, in theory, there is no need to buy "proper" bezels for retrofitting fog lamps to a 3rd model front bumper, as it should be (in theory) possible to carefully cut suitable holes for the fog lamps in the default "blank" bezels which are already present in the bumper, and achieve exactly the same look and finish.<br />
*** However, someone needs to try this in practice and report.<br />
* The P.N. of bezels, which are required for flush cosmetic fitting of fog lamp model <font face="courier">Cibie 026719</font> in the holes in the 1st. model front bumper, is currently unknown.<br />
** However, it is known that a pair of those bezels come included in complete front fog lamp retrofit sets <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-035</font> and <font face="courier">990E0-76J10-000</font> (see more in the chapter about complete retrofit sets).<br />
* The P.N. of bezels, which are required for flush cosmetic fitting of fog lamp model <font face="courier">35500-63J0'''X'''</font> in the holes in the 1st. model front bumper, is currently unknown.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Pictures of lamps and brackets in bumpers ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=384 heights=512 class=center caption="Appearance of fog lamp 35500-74F50 when mounted in 1st model front bumper - notice that it fits flush without any additional bezels"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp 35500-74F50 mounted in 1st model front bumper - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp 35500-74F50 mounted in 1st model front bumper - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 + 35526-81A01 - fog lamp, front + bracket, in 1st model front bumper, rear view - A01.jpg|800px|thumb|center|Fog lamps 35500-74F50 with brackets 35526-81A01 mounted in 1st model front bumper, rear view]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-63J04 + 35526-84A00 + 35566-84A00 - fog lamp, front + bracket, in 2nd model front bumper, rear view - A01.jpg|800px|thumb|center|Fog lamps 35500-63J0x with brackets 35526-84A00 and 35566-84A00 mounted in 2nd model front bumper, rear view]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
== Wiring ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
The wiring setup for the fog lamps in Jimnys 3 is made up of several sections, separated by connectors.<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp wiring diagram - A01.png|768px|thumb|left|Crude DIY-made general diagram of front fog lamp wiring sections in a Jimny 3]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
{{note|More info on electrical connector types used in Jimnys is written in the article [[Electrical connector types|'''Electrical connector types''']].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some Jimnys 3, which were produced without front fog lamps, still have most of the required wiring elements (cables, connectors, relays, fuses, etc.) for them already installed.<br />
* The best case scenario which you could expect is to already have everything from the above crude diagram already installed from the factory, except <font face="courier">Fog lamps</font> + <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font>, <font face="courier">Wiring 4</font> and <font face="courier">Switch</font>.<br />
* Therefore, you should first check for the presence of wires with unused el. connectors in the vehicle.<br />
*# First search for the unused <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> in the engine bay, just behind the head lamps.<br />
*#* In Jimnys 3 type 1-5, there should be '''???????''' behind '''???????'''.<br />
*#* In Jimnys 3 type 6-8, there should be one unused connector behind one of the head lamps (usually left).<br />
*#* In Jimnys 3 type 9-12, there should be one unused connector behind each head lamp (so two connectors in total).<br />
*#* If not found there, then search for it/them somewhere behind the front bumper (after removing the front inner wheel arch liners).<br />
*# Then check if the unused <font face="courier">Cable connector 3</font> for the console button / switch is present inside the console in the cabin (see the chapter about the installation of the console button / switch).<br />
* If you find both unused <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> and <font face="courier">Cable connector 3</font> (for the fog lamps and for the in-cabin switch) in your Jimny 3, consider yourself lucky!<br />
** In that case, you then only need to obtain the following:<br />
**# A pair of fog lamps (with suitable brackets if needed) + <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> (usually comes integrated or attached with the lamps);<br />
**# <font face="courier">Wiring 4</font>;<br />
**# <font face="courier">Switch</font>;<br />
** Then just connect the following:<br />
**# <font face="courier">Switch</font> to <font face="courier">Cable connector 3</font>;<br />
**# <font face="courier">Wiring 4</font> to <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font>;<br />
**# <font face="courier">Fog lamps</font> to <font face="courier">Wiring 4</font> via <font face="courier">Cable connectors 5</font>;<br />
**# Mount the fog lamps to the bumper and go on joyful rides on foggy mornings ever since.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=500 heights=350 class=center caption=""><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - fuse for front fog lamps - A01.jpg|Main fuse box in a Jimny 3 type 5, with the existing 15A fuse for the front fog lamps marked with a reddish ellipse area.<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - el. connector in the engine bay, front fog lamps - A01.jpg|Unused "Cable connector 4" just behind the front left head lamp (in a LHD Jimny type 9, made in 2012<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* If you find no unused <font face="courier">Cable connector 3</font> and/or <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> in the vehicle, you will also need to obtain wiring harness kit(s) <font face="courier">Wiring 2</font> (includes <font face="courier">Cable connector 2</font> and <font face="courier">Cable connector 3</font>) and and/or <font face="courier">Wiring 3</font> (includes <font face="courier">Cable connector 1</font> and <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font>) as well.<br />
* You can also buy one of complete fog lamp retrofit kits mentioned earlier in the article.<br />
** That way you will eliminate any risk of missing any of needed components.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The OEM wiring harness kit in the engine bay, represented by <font face="courier">Wiring 3</font> + <font face="courier">Cable connector 1</font> + <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> in the crude diagram above, is P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A05</font>.<br />
** This kit also includes <font face="courier">In-line fuse</font> (15A rated current) and a plug to the <font face="courier">Relay</font>, but not the <font face="courier">Relay</font> itself.<br />
** It is currently not known if this kit is compatible with every Jimny 3 revision and every fog lamp model used!<br />
** However, it is known to be compatible with Jimnys 3 type 1-4 and fog lamps model <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font>.<br />
*# The OEM wiring harness kit behind the dash board in the cabin, represented by <font face="courier">Wiring 2</font> + <font face="courier">Cable connector 2</font> + <font face="courier">Cable connector 3</font> in the crude diagram above, is P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A06</font>.<br />
#* It is currently not known if this kit is compatible with every Jimny 3 revision!<br />
#* However, it is known to be compatible with Jimnys 3 type 1-4 (with old style interior console).<br />
# The relay is P.N. <font face="courier">99000-990YZ-A07</font>.<br />
#* There is another relay P.N. <font face="courier">95572-63C00</font> which is instead mentioned in some other catalogues.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=500 heights=375 class=center caption="Wiring harnesses 99000-990YZ-A05 & 99000-990YZ-A06 tangled together"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 99000-990YZ-A05 + 99000-990YZ-A06 - front fog lamp wiring kits - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 99000-990YZ-A05 + 99000-990YZ-A06 - front fog lamp wiring kits - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* According to a forum report, it appears that the <font face="courier">Cable connector 1</font> (if present) is located in the engine bay, near the bulkhead, almost behind the battery / below the brake master cylinder (in RHD Jimnys).<br />
** It is a "single bullet" connector.<br />
* According to the same reports, the <font face="courier">Cable connector 2</font> (if present) is located near the wiring loom by the front right speaker (in RHD Jimnys).<br />
** There are 2 main wiring bundles there - it should be in one of those.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes on <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font>:<br />
* It appears that this connector is some specific type in Jimnys 3 type 1-5 (with 1st model front bumper) (needs more investigation).<br />
* This connector on Jimnys 3 type 6-12 (with 2nd and 3rd model front bumper) is actually the same male type connector as <font face="courier">Cable connector '''5'''</font> in Jimnys 3 type 1-5!<br />
** See notes about <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> below for more details.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes on <font face="courier">Wiring 4</font>:<br />
* This element represents the wiring harnesses:<br />
*# P.N. <font face="courier">'''?????-?????'''</font> for Jimnys 3 type 1-5,<br />
*# P.N. <font face="courier">36813-84A00</font> for Jimnys 3 type 6-8,<br />
*#* It is a split dual wire harness which connects both fog lamps in parallel to a single <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font>;<br />
*# P.N. <font face="courier">36813-57M00</font> for Jimnys 3 type 9-12.<br />
*#* It connects only one fog lamp to the el. circuit (to <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font>), so two of these harnesses are needed for one car.<br />
* Wiring 4 should easily be removable from a donor vehicle while the fog lamps are being removed.<br />
* Additional notes on harnesses <font face="courier">36813-84A00</font> and <font face="courier">36813-57M00</font>:<br />
** The connectors on these two harnesses are the same.<br />
** These two harnesses are compatible with fog lamp model <font face="courier">35500-63J0x</font>, which all Jimnys 3 type 6-12 use.<br />
** Harness <font face="courier">36813-84A00</font> can be used in Jimnys 3 type 9-12, but it will not be as Suzuki intended.<br />
*** The thing is that there is only one <font face="courier">Wiring 3</font> and thus only one <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> in Jimnys 3 type 6-8 (usually on the left side), while there are two <font face="courier">Wiring 3</font> and thus two <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> in Jimnys 3 type 9-12 (one on each side).<br />
*** Harness <font face="courier">36813-84A00</font> is a split dual wire harness (connects both fog lamps to a single power source), so it will work in Jimnys 3 type 9-12, but one <font face="courier">Wiring 3 </font> + <font face="courier">Cable connector 4</font> will be left unused, potentially creating a hanging electrical impendance.<br />
**** The probable reason why Suzuki chose to use dual wire harness in later Jimnys 3 (one for each fog lamp) instead of a common wire harness for both fog lamps is to reduce the current through the wires and increase robustness of the circuit (if one wiring fails, the other one is unaffected).<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 36813-57M00 - wiring harness, front fog lamp - A01.jpg|480px|thumb|left|Wiring harness 36813-57M00]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
Notes on <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font>:<br />
* There are two types <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> for front fog lamps in Jimnys 3.<br />
*# The first connector type was used in all Jimnys 3 type 1-5 (which originally came with 1st model front bumper, from 1998 to approx 2005).<br />
*#* This connector type is compatible only with front fog lamp model <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font>.<br />
*#** All other / newer fog lamp models which use H11 bulbs (including OEM fog lamps <font face="courier">35500-63J0'''X'''</font>) can be connected to the first / old type of <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> through a suitable connector adapter <font face="courier">36813-54G20</font>.<br />
*#*** This adapter is exactly the same as the wire harness <font face="courier">36813-57M00</font> (same connector on both ends), only the harness is slightly longer. They can be interchanged!<br />
*# The second / newer <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> type was used in all Jimnys 3 type 6-12 (which originally came with 2nd and 3rd model front bumper, from approx 2005 to 2018).<br />
*#* This newer <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> is actually a direct male connector for bulbs made according to H11 bulb standard.<br />
*#** It is directly compatible with all fog lamp models <font face="courier">35500-63J0'''X'''</font>, as these fog lamps use H11 bulbs.<br />
*#** It is incompatible with front fog lamp model <font face="courier">35500-74F50</font> (which was not meant for 2nd and 3rd model bumpers anyway, since no brackets for that combination are available).<br />
*#*** However, a required el. connection could probably be made by cutting the <font face="courier">Cable connector 5</font> off and soldering the <font face="courier">Wiring 4</font> to the fog lamps directly.<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 35500-74F50 - fog lamp, front, detail of el. connector to vehicle - A01.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Cable connector 5 as used by the fog lamp model 35500-74F50. This is the connector from the side of the fog lamp. Note that it happens to physically match Cable connector 4 from the picture above which taken from a much newer Jimny built in 2012, although they are not meant to be directly connected.]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=267 class=center caption="Wiring connector adapter 36813-54G20, for certain equipment combinations in point 'Cable connection 5'"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 36813-54G20 - connector adapter, front fog lamp - A01.png|Official illustration<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 36813-54G20 - connector adapter, front fog lamp - B01.jpg|Real image 1<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - OEM accessory 36813-54G20 - connector adapter, front fog lamp - B02.jpg|Real image 2<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Regarding all the specific details of wiring, refer to a corresponding wiring diagram manual for your vehicle revision (and for donor's vehicle revision if needed).<br />
* You can determine the exact name of the corresponding document in a wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"Manuals and Owners Guides"]].<br />
<br />
<br />
== Console button / switch ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
=== Main info ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The switch appears to exist in two editions:<br />
*# Older model P.N. <font face="courier">37270-75F10</font>;<br />
*#* This model presumably fits Jimnys 3 with older (1998-2005) style interior and in-cabin console.<br />
*# Newer model P.N. <font face="courier">37270-76J00</font>;<br />
*#* This model presumably fits Jimnys 3 with newer (2005-2018) style interior and in-cabin console.<br />
** Both switch editions appear the same - add info about the differences and compatibility if you know them!<br />
* The switch is a "permanent press-in" type - after you press it, it stays pressed in until pressed again. The switch also contains a small light indicator which is lit when the switch is pressed in.<br />
* It appears that the same switch has been used for the front fog lamps in Suzuki Vitara 2 (a.k.a. "Grand Vitara") (1998-2005).<br />
* In a Jimny 3, the switch is located next to rear fog lamp switch in a three-switch console cluster.<br />
* The cluster is located to the left of the steering wheel (for LHD vehicles) or to the right of the steering wheel (for RHD vehicles).<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - fog lamp and ESC control buttons - A01.jpg|600px|thumb|left|Appearance of a front fog lamp switch in a LHD Jimny 3 made in 2015]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=400 heights=300 class=center caption="In-cabin front fog lamp switch (P.N. 37270-76J00)"><br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - switch, front fog lamp, P.N. 37270-76J00 - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - switch, front fog lamp, P.N. 37270-76J00 - A02.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - switch, front fog lamp, P.N. 37270-76J00 - A03.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - switch, front fog lamp, P.N. 37270-76J00 - A04.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny 3 - switch, front fog lamp, P.N. 37270-76J00 - A05.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
This should be the pinout of the switch P.N. 37270-76J00:<br />
* Pins 1 and 2 are earth.<br />
* Pin 3 is unused.<br />
* Pin 4 is the output to the fog lamp relay.<br />
* Pins 5 and 6 are the "+ve" feed - these are wired to the lighting circuit in the vehicle, as it is not allowed to have the fog lamps on without having the main head lamps on.<br />
** Pin 5 is the power that goes through to the fog lamps.<br />
** Pin 6 is just the feed to illuminate the switch itself.<br />
<br />
<br />
If you are using some 3rd party 3-wire wiring to connect to the switch P.N. 37270-76J00, then wire it like this:<br />
# Earth - Pins 1 and 2 (connect to BOTH)<br />
# From relay - Pin 4<br />
# From main head lamp circuit - Pins 5 and 6 (connect to BOTH)<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=496 heights=384 class=center caption="In-cabin front fog lamp switch, unknown source. Probably aftermarket product. Note the presence of only 3 pins instead of 5."><br />
Suzuki Jimny - switch, front fog lamp - A01.jpg<br />
Suzuki Jimny - switch, front fog lamp - A02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== How to install the switch in the console ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Use a flat-bladed ''plastic'' (not metal!) tool for the removal, in order to avoid damaging or scratching anything.<br />
** It is best to prise an object off a little bit at each side at a time.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For pre-2006 Jimnys 3 (with 1998-2005 interior) ====<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - connector for front fog lamp switch in the console - A01.jpg|thumb|left|480px|Location and appearance of front fog lamp switch position and the matching el. connector]]<br />
# Leverage the tool directly against the blank itself in order to prise it off.<br />
# If the connector for the front fog lamp switch is already present behind in the hole, just connect it to the your new front fog lamp switch.<br />
# Test if the switch works.<br />
# Just push the newly connected switch into the opening - it will simply click in.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
==== For post-2005 Jimnys 3 (with revised 2005-2018 interior) ====<br />
<br />
<br />
# Notice that there is a bezel / enclosure which surrounds all three switches /blanks in the cluster in the console.<br />
# Do not use the tool on a blank itself, but instead on the bezel / enclosure in order to remove it from the console.<br />
#* The entire enclosure will come off, including all three switches / blanks inside it.<br />
# When it comes off, you will be able to easily disengage a blank cover from it by squeezing the latches on the rear side of the cover.<br />
# Then just push in the front fog lamp switch in the empty slot in the enclosure - it will simply click in.<br />
# If the connector for the front fog lamp switch is already present behind in the hole, just connect it to the your new front fog lamp switch.<br />
# Test if the switch works.<br />
# Then just push the entire three-switch cluster enclosure back in the console - it will simply click in.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Installation in the front bumper ==<br />
<br />
<br />
In the case of 1st and 2nd model front bumper, you first have to cut out the plastic blanks in order to open the holes through which the fog lamps will illuminate the space in front of the vehicle. As this is an irreversible operation, it is advised to do this only after obtaining all the parts and test-connecting all the wiring to prove that it all works as planned.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - front bumper, 1st model - fog lamp blank cover cut-out - A01.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Cutting out the plastic blank cover for the fog lamps in 1st model front bumper]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - front bumper, 1st model - interior side in-position view - A01.jpg|400px|thumb|center|View of the space behind the 1st model front bumper when mounted to the vehicle, which a front fog lamp will occupy. The circle needs to be cut out, and the fog lamp bracket needs to bolt on to three plastic holes around the circle.]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Accessories - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10008
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-13T21:03:12Z
<p>Bosanek: Added pictures of example wheel nut designs</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Many of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="400px" heights="300px" class=center caption="Examples of locking wheel nut designs"><br />
File:Locking wheel nut design A - A01.jpg| Design A - note the outer grooves on the nuts<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design B - A01.jpg| Design B<br />
File:Locking wheel nut design C - A01.jpg| Design C - note the outer ring<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
{{note|Any of the products listed below should suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== OEM ===<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Aftermarket ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# Trilock<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* [https://e-tech.uk.com/key-trilock Manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
#** However, their locking nut sets can be found online for Jimnys, but have no part numbers to differentiate them.<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Locking_wheel_nut_design_C_-_A01.jpg&diff=10007
File:Locking wheel nut design C - A01.jpg
2023-02-13T20:56:24Z
<p>Bosanek: Picture meant for a specific wiki article.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Picture meant for a specific wiki article.</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Locking_wheel_nut_design_B_-_A01.jpg&diff=10006
File:Locking wheel nut design B - A01.jpg
2023-02-13T20:56:12Z
<p>Bosanek: Picture meant for a specific wiki article.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Picture meant for a specific wiki article.</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Locking_wheel_nut_design_A_-_A01.jpg&diff=10005
File:Locking wheel nut design A - A01.jpg
2023-02-13T20:55:57Z
<p>Bosanek: Picture meant for a specific wiki article.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Picture meant for a specific wiki article.</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10004
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-13T14:37:53Z
<p>Bosanek: Minor phrase corrections</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Many of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
{{note|Any of the products listed below should suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== OEM ===<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Aftermarket ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# Trilock<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* [https://e-tech.uk.com/key-trilock Manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
#** However, their locking nut sets can be found online for Jimnys, but have no part numbers to differentiate them.<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit any Jimny generation.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10003
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-10T12:36:46Z
<p>Bosanek: Added more products to the list</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# Trilock<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* [https://e-tech.uk.com/key-trilock Manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
#** However, their locking nut sets can be found online for Jimnys, but have no part numbers to differentiate them.<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Jimny_history&diff=10002
Jimny history
2023-02-10T07:32:02Z
<p>Bosanek: Added info about Brazilian late production Jimnys 3.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
This article has been generated from both a forum post by Kirkynut and Wikipedia entries.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note| This article is rather old and contains only some sparse information. The main worldwide community knowledge about the history of the Suzuki Jimny range is located in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_Jimny#Development_history Generic world Wikipedia article on Jimnys].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Naming differences ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is important to understand some Jimny history.<br />
* First, as this forum has a large United Kingdom (Great Britain) based membership, visitors from other countries may be confused by the vehicle name.<br />
* Within the UK, only the 3rd and 4th generation of the "Jimny" is called the Jimny.<br />
* Previous versions, that were called "Jimny" in other countries, were called LJ50, LJ80, SJ410, SJ413 and Samurai within the UK market.<br />
* Therefore, this website usually uses the term Jimny to refer to the 3rd or 4th generation vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The compact off-road capable Suzuki Jimny was Suzuki's first global success, lending it name recognition and a foothold in markets worldwide.<br />
* The Jimny slotted into a hitherto unfilled gap in the market.<br />
<br />
<br />
== First generation ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}<br />
=== LJ10/LJ20 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[image:Suzuki Jimny LJ10 001.JPG|left|thumb|285px|Suzuki LJ10]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:1973 Suzuki Jimny 02.jpg|thumb|left|285px|Suzuki Jimny LJ20 (1973), note spare tire placement]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== SJ10 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny SJ10 001.jpg|thumb|left|285px|Suzuki Jimny 55 (SJ10)]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== SJ20/LJ80 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki LJ 80 1980 (15569014402).jpg|thumb|285px|left|Suzuki SJ20/LJ80]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
== Second generation ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen2|}}<br />
=== SJ30 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny SJ30 001.JPG|thumb|285px|left|Suzuki SJ30]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== SJ40/SJ410 ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Samurai SJ410 photographed in Sérres, Greece.jpg|thumb|285px|left|Suzuki SJ40/SJ410]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== SJ413/Samurai ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Samurai SJ 413 QX 1989 (15565504501).jpg|thumb|285px|left|Suzuki SJ413]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Maruti jeep.jpg|thumb|285px|left|Maruti Gypsy]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Coil sprung versions ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny JA22 006.JPG|thumb|285px|left|Suzuki SJ413]]<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny JA12W 001.JPG|thumb|285px|left|Suzuki SJ413]]<br />
<br />
<br />
* These are particularly interesting, as they were the last of the SJ413 developments and effectively had the "3rd Generation" suspension (coil springs).<br />
* This makes them (in the terms of construction) very similar to the Jimny as we currently know it.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
== 3rd generation ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The 3rd generation vehicles arrived in 1998.<br />
* They were initially made in the JB33 variant (for the international market), which had the 1300cc SOHC G13B Series engine.<br />
* This was built in "tin top" (Japanese) and a "soft top" / "hard top" cabrio (Built by Santana in Spain from 1999 to 2009).<br />
<br />
<br />
* JB33 edition was followed by the JB43 variant with the 1300 cc DOHC M13A series engine.<br />
* Within some markets (primarily continental Europe) a JB53 variant was produced with the Renault sourced K9K diesel engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Production of the 3rd generation ended globally in year 2018.<br />
* A notable exception are domestically produced models in the Brazilian market, whose production continued on until mid-2022.<br />
** [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/6-jimny-chat/68357-the-last-of-the-3rd-gen-jimnys This forum topic] contains more info.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="200px" heights="150px"><br />
File:Suzuki Jimny Sierra rear.jpg|Suzuki Jimny Sierra<br />
File:1998 Suzuki Jimny 01.jpg|Suzuki Jimny<br />
File:2001 Suzuki Jimny (SN413 Type2) JLX softtop (2015-07-14) 01.jpg|2001 Suzuki Jimny JLX softtop<br />
File:2006-2009 Suzuki Jimny JB53 DDiS Canvas Top.jpg|JB53 Diesel<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== 4th generation ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* Introduced in the summer of 2018 and international sales slowly began in late 2018 / early 2019 (depending on the market).<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="400px" heights="224px"><br />
File:Suzuki Jimny 4 - 2019 year model - front side view - representative image - A01.jpg|Suzuki Jimny 4 - front side view<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny 4 - 2019 year model - rear side view - representative image - A01.jpg|Suzuki Jimny 4 - rear side view<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10001
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T19:19:32Z
<p>Bosanek: Added more products to the list</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/13/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* There also exists a black edition of the same nuts - [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/14/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNBTB341921C].<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/5/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTC341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://wheelpartsdirect.com/products/lock-nuts/6/suzuki/jimny-mk2/original Gen2 GLNPBTB341921C]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design either B or C - not sure.<br />
#* Note: Black color.<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/# McGard 24152]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-4-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24154]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
# [https://mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/ McGard 24552]<br />
#* Five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B, possibly C.<br />
#* Specification says that its un/locking tool is 3/4" hex size - that is 19 mm metric.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=10000
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T18:37:43Z
<p>Bosanek: Added one more product to the list</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-closed-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en Bimecc UM215]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
#* There also exists model [https://www.bimecc.it/prodotto/nut-wheel-lock-open-conical-seat-thread-m12x125/?lang=en UMO215].<br />
#** It is an open ended edition of <font face="Courier">UM215</font>.<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Tyre_selection_and_usage_-_best_practices&diff=9999
Tyre selection and usage - best practices
2023-02-09T12:07:58Z
<p>Bosanek: Additional note</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* One of the most common questions about improving vehicle's all-terrain performance and endurance is "what is the most effective modification to apply to my vehicle?".<br />
** Well, using proper tyres, and using them properly, is arguably the most effective vehicle "mod" for all-terrain use!<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|"Most effective" can generally mean in the context of cost, performance, simplicity or endurance.<br>Using '''proper''' tyres '''properly''' can be the most effective "mod" in all of those ways!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overview of the topics covered by this document ===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Choosing a proper tyre type for the desired usage;<br />
# Choosing a tyre size (with various factors);<br />
# List of various tyre models with remarks;<br />
# Best practices on tyre usage (wheel rotation, wheel balancing, air pressures, rim and tyre repairs);<br />
# Use of tyre chains for snow and mud conditions;<br />
# Special situations and combinations;<br />
<br />
<br />
== General remarks ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, some basic remarks about using tyres on four wheel drive vehicles. Each remark is explained in detail in various chapters of this article.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Constraints on tyre combinations ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Inherent restriction of most four wheel drive transmission systems (all Jimny's included) is that the vehicle has to use all four tyres of the same profile (size).<br />
** Furthermore, all four tyres should be the same model and have a very similar tread depth.<br />
*** Reason: Even small differences between rotational friction and wheel circumference among wheels can damage the 4WD transmission in the long term.<br />
* These restrictions limit the combinations when choosing (buying) tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== The spare (5th) tyre ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The stated restrictions also apply to the spare (5th) tyre, which must not be overlooked!<br />
** The spare wheel and tyre should be actively used in a 5-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
* Topic of spare tyre utilization has its own dedicated sub-chapter: [[#Spare wheel and tyre usage|Spare wheel and tyre usage]].<br />
* People who venture into serious expeditions and overland travels usually use '''six''' identical wheels and tyres in a six-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre (air) pressures ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Frequent checking (and adjusting) of tyre air pressures is much more important for all-terrain use than for ordinary on-road use.<br />
** Reason: tyre pressures significantly affect all-terrain traction as well as the risk of tyre damage.<br />
*** Tyres get hotter with low pressures, for example.<br />
* The topic of tyre air pressures has its own dedicated sub-chapter: [[#Tyre air pressures|Tyre air pressures]].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Wheel (dis)balancing ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Wheel (dis)balancing is a much more prominent issue for all-terrain use.<br />
** This is especially important for Jimnys, as all Jimny generations are notorious for developing a [[Death Wobble|"death wobble"]] issue.<br />
*** It is a genetic trait derived from their short wheelbase and solid (rigid) front axle suspension design.<br />
* See the sub-chapter [[#Wheel balancing|"Wheel balancing"]] for more details.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Wheel (mis)alignment ===<br />
<br />
* If wheels are not properly aligned, the usual consequence is excessive and uneven tyre wear.<br />
** Another significant consequence is improper steering.<br />
* Read the chapter '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel alignment|Wheel alignment]]''' in the Death Wobble wiki article for some details about the process of properly aligning the wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre profiles ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain use, '''higher profile''' tyres are always preferred against '''lower profile tyres'''.<br />
** Reasons:<br />
**# Higher profile tyres cushion the ride better on all-terrain both for the vehicle and for the passengers,<br />
**# They decrease the chance of rim damage, <br />
**# They allow better air pressure management.<br />
* The only disadvantage of "tall" tyres is worse performance when the vehicle corners fast in a bend.<br />
** However, it is insensible anyway to do so in a high, narrow, wobbly, jumpy, twitchy vehicle.<br />
* Therefore, putting oversized rims with thin tyres on a 4WD vehicle is like putting ballet shoes on a village farmer.<br />
<br />
<br />
* A "higher profile" means a "taller" tyre (taller tyre sidewall).<br />
* The '''second''' number in tyre's sizing specification determines its "tallness" as a percentage of its width.<br />
** An example: for a <font face="courier">205 / '''70''' / R15</font> tyre, the second number says that its sidewall height is <font face="courier">205 mm * '''0,7''' = 143,5 mm</font>.<br />
* Sometimes a narrower tyre with a higher second number is actually taller than a wider tyre with a lower second number!<br />
** An example: <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> is taller than <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> (<font face="courier">156 mm</font> sidewall height vs <font face="courier">143,5 mm</font> sidewall height).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre load index and velocity index ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* These two tyre specifications are often overlooked, as the sizing specification is getting all the attention.<br />
* Tyre load carrying capacity and maximum vehicle velocity specifications are always written just after the sizing specification.<br />
** For example: <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''96S'''</font>.<br />
*** '''96''' is the load carrying capacity index, while '''S''' is the maximum velocity index.<br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Tyre load capacity index classification<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
|-<br />
| 70<br />
| 335<br />
| 89<br />
| 580<br />
| 108<br />
| 1000<br />
|-<br />
| 71<br />
| 345<br />
| 90<br />
| 600<br />
| 109<br />
| 1030<br />
|-<br />
| 72<br />
| 355<br />
| 91<br />
| 615<br />
| 110<br />
| 1060<br />
|-<br />
| 73<br />
| 365<br />
| 92<br />
| 630<br />
| 111<br />
| 1090<br />
|-<br />
| 74<br />
| 375<br />
| 93<br />
| 650<br />
| 112<br />
| 1120<br />
|-<br />
| 75<br />
| 387<br />
| 94<br />
| 670<br />
| 113<br />
| 1150<br />
|-<br />
| 76<br />
| 400<br />
| 95<br />
| 690<br />
| 114<br />
| 1180<br />
|-<br />
| 77<br />
| 412<br />
| 96<br />
| 710<br />
| 115<br />
| 1215<br />
|-<br />
| 78<br />
| 425<br />
| 97<br />
| 730<br />
| 116<br />
| 1250<br />
|-<br />
| 79<br />
| 437<br />
| 98<br />
| 750<br />
| 117<br />
| 1285<br />
|-<br />
| 80<br />
| 450<br />
| 99<br />
| 775<br />
| 118<br />
| 1320<br />
|-<br />
| 81<br />
| 462<br />
| 100<br />
| 800<br />
| 119<br />
| 1360<br />
|-<br />
| 82<br />
| 475<br />
| 101<br />
| 825<br />
| 120<br />
| 1400<br />
|-<br />
| 83<br />
| 487<br />
| 102<br />
| 850<br />
| 121<br />
| 1450<br />
|-<br />
| 84<br />
| 500<br />
| 103<br />
| 875<br />
| 122<br />
| 1500<br />
|-<br />
| 85<br />
| 515<br />
| 104<br />
| 900<br />
| 123<br />
| 1550<br />
|-<br />
| 86<br />
| 530<br />
| 105<br />
| 925<br />
| 124<br />
| 1600<br />
|-<br />
| 87<br />
| 545<br />
| 106<br />
| 950<br />
| 125<br />
| 1650<br />
|-<br />
| 88<br />
| 560<br />
| 107<br />
| 975<br />
| 126<br />
| 1700<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Tyre velocity index classification<br />
! Velocity<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>velocity<br>[km/h]<br />
|-<br />
| N<br />
| 120<br />
|-<br />
| M<br />
| 130<br />
|-<br />
| N<br />
| 140<br />
|-<br />
| P<br />
| 150<br />
|-<br />
| Q<br />
| 160<br />
|-<br />
| R<br />
| 170<br />
|-<br />
| S<br />
| 180<br />
|-<br />
| T<br />
| 190<br />
|-<br />
| U<br />
| 200<br />
|-<br />
| H<br />
| 210<br />
|-<br />
| V<br />
| 240<br />
|-<br />
| W<br />
| 270<br />
|-<br />
| Y<br />
| 300<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
* Maximum tyre velocity is not really important for most 4WD vehicle applications, as such vehicles are rarely driven faster than 130 km/h, and most tyres (''except many MT tyres and retreaded tyres!'') usually sustain significantly higher velocities.<br />
** This means that most tyres on the market will have sufficient velocity rating for typical use on a 4WD vehicle.<br />
*** However, if you intend to drive your vehicle on motorway speeds, you should check the velocity rating on AT tyres and especially on MT tyres and retreaded tyres that you are considering to purchase (or already got on the vehicle). <br />
<br />
<br />
* Maximum tyre load rating deserves additional consideration, because using a tyre with significantly higher load rating than factory specified for a vehicle can introduce several negative side effects, while still being perfectly legal and technically acceptable.<br />
* Typical examples of tyres with significantly higher load bearing capacity than "ordinary" tyres of the same size are many '''C''' (Cargo / Commercial), '''LT''' (Light Truck), '''XL''' (eXtra Load) and '''RF''' (ReinForced) tyres.<br />
** Read the corresponding chapter on those tyre types further down below for more info about consequences of using tyres with significantly higher load bearing capacity than specified by the vehicle manufacturer.<br />
* Note: Maximum load rating of a tyre means just that - load above which it would burst, disintegrate and get completely destroyed due to excessive force which it has to handle. In everyday use, a tyre should never bear more than 50-70% of that load.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Choosing a proper tyre type for the desired usage ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Tyre designs for passenger and all terrain / light truck vehicles can be (among other ways) designed and built for:<br />
* Regular "on road" use (the vast majority of tyre models);<br />
* All-terrain use (to a certain extent);<br />
<br />
<br />
* The difference between those two design approaches is not just in the tread pattern (traction capability).<br />
* Another equally important aspect is the robustness of tyre's body (resistance to various types of trauma, which '''regularly''' occurs off the asphalt).<br />
** This is generally given dedicated design attention for all-terrain tyres (based on tyre's exploitation expectancy).<br />
** For ordinary road tyres, robustness is barely considered on itself.<br />
* Also, tyre's adaptability to different weather conditions is also sometimes given more design thought when designing all-terrain tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is no official standard to differentiate various kinds of all-terrain tyre designs.<br />
<br />
There are three "industry categories" of all terrain tyre designs, based on loose practical usage classifications (from "worse" to "best"):<br />
# HT - "Highway Terrain"<br />
# AT - "All Terrain"<br />
# MT - "Mud Terrain"<br />
<br />
<br />
Tyre manufacturers usually use this classification to position their all-terrain tyre models in their marketing catalogue.<br />
<br />
* HT tyres generally have the best on-road performance and worst off-road performance of all three categories.<br />
* MT tyres generally have the opposite performance characteristics.<br />
* AT tyres are generally in the middle - being good but not great for both.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since these are loose classifications, there are "weaker" and "stronger" tyre models in each category.<br />
** Therefore, each tyre model should be precisely evaluated on its own.<br />
*** For example, Dunlop Grandtrek AT20 could be classified either as a "mild AT tyre", or as an "extreme HT tyre" :).<br />
*** Another example is Uniroyal Laredo HD/T, which could be classified either as a "mild MT tyre" or as an "extreme AT tyre".<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some tyre models also exist in one or more of the following "heavy load" editions:<br />
** C (Commercial / Cargo);<br />
** LT (Light Truck);<br />
** XL ("eXtra Load);<br />
** RF (ReinForced);<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are '''not''' suitable for vehicles which are not heavily loaded on a regular basis.<br />
* Read more about tyres for heavy loads in the corresponding subchapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
* A special case are retreaded (remoulded, "protect") tyres.<br />
** Read more about them in the corresponding subchapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== HT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Highway terrain tyres are generally meant to be used predominantly on road, with only slight & light off road excursions (dirt roads, possibly rougher gravel at most, etc.).<br />
* The overall tread design and depth of HT tyres is generally quite similar to ordinary road tyres.<br />
** That means that HT tyres generally have equally proficient on-road performance and endurance even for sharp or very fast driving (and similar fuel economy).<br />
** That also means that HT tyres exhibit almost equally bad all-terrain performance as ordinary road tyres.<br />
* However, having the "terrain" part in their name, HT tyres should be slightly more robust than ordinary road tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For (almost) always on-road driven all terrain vehicles, HT tyres can be an optimal choice if the vehicles are driven sharply or at high speeds.<br />
* HT-class tyres are always recommended over ordinary on-road tyres for two reasons:<br />
*# They should be more robust;<br />
*# They at least formally "suit" the all-terrain image of the host vehicle;<br />
* However, AT tyres are definitely a better choice if proper all terrain driving is even occasionally performed, and/or if the vehicle is not driven fast or sharply.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== AT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All terrain tyres are generally meant to be used in mixed on-road and all terrain conditions (anywhere between 30% and 70% of time for either).<br />
* AT tyres usually have significantly rougher (and a bit deeper) tread design compared to HT and ordinary road tyres.<br />
* AT tyres are a performance compromise which is usually hard to achieve.<br />
* AT tyres are generally good on-road except for sharp or very fast driving, and generally good off-road except for boggy and/or harsh conditions (deep mud, deep snow, sharp rocks, river crossings ...).<br />
* AT tyres are usually significantly more robust than ordinary road tyres.<br />
* AT tyres should slightly impact fuel economy.<br />
* AT tyres can be a challenge to balance properly.<br />
* Many AT tyres are "all season", which further adds to their "all terrain" value.<br />
** For example, mountaineers can encounter ice and snow even as late as in June and as early as in September.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain vehicles which are used for everything - commuting, intercity travel, and various all terrain conditions, AT tyres are the solution.<br />
* AT-class tyres should not present a jeopardy on the road, and they should be a trusted companion off the road, in the sense of traction and in the sense of reliability.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== MT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Mud terrain tyres (also called "Maximum Traction") are generally meant to be used predominantly off road, with only slight easy-going on-road excursions.<br />
* MT tyres usually have very deep and striking ("tractor looking") tread and sidewall appearance, and very high robustness capability through various reinforcements.<br />
* MT tyres excel in boggy and/or harsh conditions (deep mud, deep snow, sharp rocks, tree roots, river crossings, etc.) and offer the best protection against punctures, cuts and chipping.<br />
* However, MT tyres are generally noisy on the road, wear faster and present a real jeopardy if not driven slowly and carefully on a wet road and especially on packed snow or ice.<br />
* Also, MT tyres usually significantly affect fuel economy.<br />
* Due to their coarse construction, MT tyres can be very hard or impossible to balance properly.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain vehicles which rarely touch the asphalt and are primarily used on rough terrain, MT tyres should be the weapon of choice.<br />
* However, MT-class tyres can be a jeopardy on regular road surfaces and they wear out faster and louder on road.<br />
* Also, if not balanced entirely, MT-class tyres will cause issues on road.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyres for heavy loads (C, LT, XL, RF, etc.) ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Fast info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Quick advice for lazy readers:<br />
* Avoid using tyres for heavy loads on a Jimny!<br />
** Typical designations: C - "commercial" / "cargo", LT - "light truck", XL - "extra load", RF - "reinforced".<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Detailed info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some tyre models also exist in a "C" ("commercial" / "cargo"), an LT ("light truck"), an XL ("extra load") and/or in an RF ("reinforced") edition (or a specific tyre model is exclusively built as such).<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are usually designed to bear significantly heavier loads for their size compared to "normal load" tyres of the same size.<br />
** The tread pattern of a C, LT, XL or RF tyre edition is usually identical or very similar to a "normal" tyre edition of the same tyre model.<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are meant to be used on vans, pick-up trucks and other vehicles which typically transport quite heavy loads and/or tow heavy trailers, as well as on those trailers.<br />
* Don't get mislead by the "light" attribute in the "LT" designation.<br />
** The "light" attribute stands in reference to '''heavy''' trucks.<br />
*** A vehicle with loaded weight of several tonnes is indeed ''light'' in comparison with a heavy truck which has a loaded weight of several dozen tonnes!<br />
* Beware that sometimes a certain tyre model might be offered in a "heavy load" edition as well, without having any of those C, LT, XL, RF or other special markers.<br />
** The only certain way to tell is to always check the load index which is printed on tyre's sidewall.<br />
*** Read the chapter on tyre load and velocity index ratings for details.<br />
<br />
<br />
* C tyres can usually be distinguished by having a "C" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''C'''</font><br />
* LT tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "LT" prefix before the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">'''LT''' 205 / 70 / R15</font><br />
* XL tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "XL" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''XL'''</font><br />
* RF tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "RF" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''RF'''</font><br />
* Another way to identify a C, LT, XL and RF tyres is to compare their load rating with typical load ratings of other tyre models of the same size.<br />
** If its load rating is more than a couple rating numbers higher than most other tyre models in the same size, than it's probably a C, LT, XL or RF tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
Typical difference in tyre's load rating for Jimny 3's stock size of <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> is:<br />
# A "normal load" tyre usually has <font face="Courier">"96"-"97"</font> (<font face="Courier">730-750 kg</font>) load rating;<br />
# C, LT, XL and RF tyres usually has <font face="Courier">"105"-"107"</font> (<font face="Courier">930-980 kg</font>) load rating;<br />
#* This is a quite significant '''30%''' increase in load bearing capability.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Advantages of tyres for heavy loads ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For regularly heavily loaded vehicles which are designed to bear that load, "heavy load" tyres are the tool of choice.<br />
* They have significantly stronger sidewalls and harder tread material to withstand heavy forces when rolling under heavy load.<br />
** Therefore, they should theoretically be able to withstand more abuse off road than ordinary on-road limousine tyres.<br />
** Due to harder tread material, they usually wear a lot slower when used on a very light vehicle which never loads them close to their designed load.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disadvantages of tyres for heavy loads ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Significantly more expensive than "normal load" tyres.<br />
** ''Well, you are probably making some money transporting all that heavy load, so a tyre manufacturer should also get a cut of the profit!''<br />
* If a vehicle is not heavily loaded, these tyres usually provide a much stiffer and harsher ride.<br />
** Reason is that their sidewalls are "too strong" and they almost don't flex at all when on light load, thus providing no cushioning for vehicle's suspension.<br />
** Harsher ride increases the wear of vehicle's suspension and other vibration-prone elements (as all of those have to "soak" most of the vibrations instead of the tyres).<br />
** A harsher ride also increases the wear of your teeth fillings.<br />
* Also, the theoretical advantage of better robustness off road of a "heavy load" tyre compared to an ordinary limousine tyre is quickly lost when an on-road "heavy load" tyre is compared with a "normal load" HT tyre or especially a "normal load" AT tyre.<br />
** Reason: many HT and especially AT tyres have sidewall puncture robustness built-in as a design, without making the sidewall too stiff.<br />
** Also, the compound (material) of the tread of HT and especially AT tyres is built to better withstand wear of harsh terrain (chips, cuts, bruises, etc.).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations are very light vehicles, especially in regards to the size of the tyres which they use.<br />
** The best proof of their relative lightness compared to the relatively large tyres which they use is the fact that factory on-road tyre pressures for Jimnys 3 are '''only''' about 1,7 bar per tyre.<br />
*** Additional explanation: The lighter the load on a tyre, the less air pressure inside is needed to bear that load properly.<br />
* Also, Jimny 3's load carrying capacity is only around 300 kg and Jimny 4's load carrying capacity is '''XXX''' kg.<br />
** This means that with four adult passengers and their baggage, the vehicle is already near the limit of its load carrying capacity.<br />
* Therefore, using "heavy load" tyres on a Jimny is (to say the least) ''superfluous'' and to say the most, ''idiotic'' (depending on tyre model).<br />
** The only good reason to use "heavy load" tyres on a Jimny is try to break some large kidney stones or gale bladder stones.<br />
** "Heavy load" tyres (depending on a model) will usually be so stiff on a Jimny that even significant (30-40%) pressure reduction to 1,1-1,2 bar will not provide significant improvement in vibration damping.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Forum user Bosanek has experienced all this while using C tyres in practice on a friend's Jimny 3.<br />
** Those tyres had load rating of 107 compared to Jimny's stock rating of 96 - more than 35% increase!<br />
** The friend bought C tyres by mistakenly believing that "more load bearing capacity" means better durability and robustness off road.<br />
** What he got in practice is super stiff ride, much more wear of suspension components and even squeaky interior body panels after some time.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Retreaded (remoulded, "protect") tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Fast info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Quick advice for lazy readers:<br />
* Do '''not''' use retreaded tyres on any vehicle, except if it's an off-roading toy!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Detailed info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A retreaded tyre is a recycled / revived tyre.<br />
** It is a previously used and worn out tyre, which had its worn tread surface grinded off, and a new tread (which can have completely different pattern from the old one) glued on.<br />
** The material of the new tread is specific to the retreading "factory".<br />
* Therefore, retreaded tyres are essentially "tyre zombies".<br />
** That means they are old, worn tyre carcasses which have been restitched and brought back to life like Frankenstein.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes on tread patterns:<br />
* Retreaded tyres are produced in all kinds of editions and flavors, with their treads typically mimicking a well known brand name tread pattern.<br />
** They can mimic any tread pattern, either of slick and smooth road tyres, summer or winter tread designs, as well as heavy-duty AT, MT or even more extreme agricultural and industrial tread patterns.<br />
* They can also be made with a custom tread design of any appearance that you can imagine.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Advantages of retreaded tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* They are quite cheap (usually cheaper than any brand name tyre).<br />
* They are ecological (recycled material).<br />
* There is a wide and colorful choice of tread patterns, especially the extreme traction ones. <br />
<br />
<br />
But there is a cost to pay. Read on.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disadvantages of retreaded tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bear in mind - if a tread appears the same like from a brand name tyre model, it does not mean that the materials and compositions of the tread are the same (affecting grip, wear rate, etc.).<br />
* Also, you hardly ever know which actual tyres were used for resurrection.<br />
** For all-terrain duty, the strength and robustness of tyre's sidewalls are equally important as the tread pattern.<br />
* There are also horror stories of retreaded tyres failing catastrophically during high speed driving.<br />
** The tread layer actually glues off from the tyre carcass.<br />
*** The consequences don't look pretty from any angle of view.<br />
* In some countries, an aggressive tread remoulded tyre could render an environmental fine in some back-country roads. <br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|<br>Beware that all Jimny generations (as most vehicles with solid front axles) are highly susceptible to developing a [[Death Wobble|"death wobble"]] issue produced by disbalance or play in their front suspension.<br>Improper wheel balance is highly likely to trigger it.<br>Retreaded tyres (even those with ordinary on-road treads) are notorious for being hard or impossible to balance.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-1RXKtrBykdw7V9X1WX3jLXpSdygKb8ji3y1WJZhR0g/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which summarises all arguments FOR and AGAINST using retreaded tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre tread symmetry and directionality ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The previous chapter dealt with tyre construction and tread pattern, primarily regarding robustness and heavy-duty performance.<br />
* This chapter deals with tyre tread layout, which is a common parameter of any tyre construction.<br />
* The issue of tread layouts is important for all-terrain use.<br />
** Reason: some layouts severely restrict tyre's usage flexibility for all-terrain use.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The tread design of each tyre has two important pattern layouts:'''<br />
* Symmetricity - it can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical;<br />
* Directionality - it can be either "uni-directional" (also called just "directional") or "bi-directional" (also called "non-directional");<br />
<br />
<br />
These two pattern layouts directly determine / constraint in which orientations and positions a certain tyre can be used on a vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Therefore, there are four possible tread layouts:'''<br />
# Symmetric bi/non-directional tread<br />
# Asymmetric bi/non-directional tread<br />
# Symmetric (uni)directional tread<br />
# Asymmetric (uni)directional tread<br />
<br />
<br />
The pelicularities of each layout will be discussed below.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Symmetric bi/non-directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* This has historically been the most common tyre tread pattern layout, but it's use is steadily decreasing in the 21st century.<br />
* It is still the most common layout for HT/AT/MT tyres.<br />
* No matter how the tyre is turned around or mounted, the tread looks just the same every time.<br />
* Therefore, this layout imposes '''no''' restrictions on how the tyre needs to be oriented when being mounted on a wheel, nor on which sides of the vehicle the tyre+wheel assembly can be used afterwards.<br />
* In other words, this layout provides complete flexibility regarding orientations when mounting tyres on wheels '''and''' when mounting the tyre+wheel assembly on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with symmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Hankook Optimo H724 - representative image.jpg|Hankook Optimo H724<br />
Tyre Bridgestone Potenza RE92 - representative image.jpg|Bridgestone Potenza RE92<br />
Tyre Bridgestone Turanza AR10 - representative image.jpg|Bridgestone Turanza AR10<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with symmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Yokohama-Geolandar-HT-S - representative image.jpg|Yokohama-Geolandar-HT-S<br />
Tyre General Grabber AT3 - representative image.jpg|General Grabber AT3<br />
Tyre Goodyear Wrangler AT-SA - representative image.jpg|Goodyear Wrangler AT-SA<br />
Tyre Falken Wildpeak WP AT01 - representative image.jpg|Falken Wildpeak WP AT01<br />
Tyre Kumho Road Venture MT51 - representative image.jpg|Kumho Road Venture MT51<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Asymmetric bi/non-directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When someone says or writes just "asymmetric tread", they usually refer to this layout, because most asymmetric treads are bi/non-directional.<br />
** However, there are notable exceptions (read below), so explicit mentioning of tread's directionality too is always desired.<br />
* When a tread is asymmetric, it means that the left and right portion of the tread are different when compared to one another.<br />
** The reason is that one side is optimized for one scenario (for example to handle cornering forces) and the other side for another scenario (for example for water ejection to evade "aquaplanning").<br />
* This means that asymmetric tread layouts generally provide more versatility and better optimization of available tyre tread surface than "plain" symmetric treads.<br />
* The "left" and "right" portion of the tread are usually designed for (and referred as) being the "inner" and "outer" side of the tread/tyre (when it is mounted on a vehicle).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Pirelli P-Zero System Asimmetrico.jpg|Pirelli P-Zero System Asimmetrico<br />
Tyre Continental WinterExtremeContact - representative image.jpg|Continental WinterExtremeContact<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Maxxis Escapade CUV - representative image.jpg|Maxxis Escapade CUV<br />
Tyre Michelin Latitude Cross - representative image.jpg|Michelin Latitude Cross<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional treads typically have an "Inside" and/or "Outside" inscriptions / markings on their sidewalls, indicating proper orientation when mounting them on a wheel.<br />
** Therefore, it is very important to always mount an asymmetric bi/non-directional tyre on a wheel in proper orientation.<br />
*** This means that the "outside" side of the tyre should be on the outer side of the wheel.<br />
* After that, such a tyre+wheel assembly can be used on any side of the vehicle, because the "outside" side of the tyre will always be ... well, on the outer side of the wheel.<br />
* In other words, this layout just requires simple caution to properly orientate a tyre when mounting it on a wheel, and after that it provides complete flexibility regarding positions and orientations when mounting the tyre+wheel assembly on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Symmetric (uni)directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When someone says or writes just "(uni)directional tread", they usually refer to this layout, because most (uni)directional treads are symmetric.<br />
* When a tread is (uni)directional, it means that its pattern is designed and optimized to do its work for just one tyre rolling direction.<br />
* Concentrating the design effort on only one direction of motion enables better optimization of the tread performance like directional stability, grip, "aquaplanning", wear rate, etc.<br />
* The appearance of (uni)directional treads usually vaguely or strikingly resembles a "V" shape.<br />
* Most winter tyres have this tread layout, because it enables significant optimization of tread performance for very slippery or wet conditions - where every bit of additional grip can make a difference.<br />
* This tread layout can also be encountered on many summer and all-season tyres as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with symmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 - representative image.jpg|Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110<br />
Tyre Continental WinterContact TS800 - representative image.jpg|Continental WinterContact TS800<br />
Tyre Fulda Kristall Control HP2 - representative image.jpg|Fulda Kristall Control HP2<br />
Tyre Goodyear UltraGrip plus SUV - representative image.jpg|Goodyear UltraGrip plus SUV<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with symmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Kumho Road Venture MT KL71 - representative image.jpg|Kumho Road Venture MT KL71<br />
Tyre Yokohama Geolandar MT - representative image.jpg|Yokohama Geolandar MT<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* (Uni)directional symmetrical tyres typically have a "Rotation" inscription / marking on their sidewalls combined with some directional marking (usually an embossed arrow shape).<br />
** This marking directly determines in which orientation a tyre needs to be mounted on a wheel, depending on which side of the vehicle will the wheel+tyre assembly be mounted afterwards.<br />
* Since a tyre can be mounted on a wheel with the "Rotation" marking pointing either to the left or to the right (when viewing the wheel from its outside/face side), such a tyre+wheel combination should then '''only''' be used '''either''' on the left '''or''' on the right side of the vehicle.<br />
** In other words, after such a tyre is mounted on a wheel, that assembly should be then used only on one side of the vehicle (depending on how was the tyre oriented when it was mounted on the wheel).<br />
*** This prevents the use of [[#Using five identical tyres|five identical tyres]].<br />
**** Reason: tyres can not be switched from one side of the vehicle to another without dismounting them from the wheel, turning them around and mounting them again - a cumbersome and expensive endeavor.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Asymmetric (uni)directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* This tread design layout is rather rare.<br />
* Although it theoretically provides the best possible potential for the optimization of the tread surface, it inherently invokes a layer of complexity for which 99% of the tyre market is not accustomed to.<br />
* Because '''both''' the "outside" parameter and the "rotation" parameter need to be respected simultaneously, the tyre model would have to be made in two distinct editions - with a tread layout for the left side of the vehicle and with the tread layout for the right side of the vehicle.<br />
** In other words, it would have to be like a left shoe and a right shoe for humans.<br />
* The seller / installer / buyer would have to be careful to always sell / install / buy such tyres in a "left" + "right" pairs.<br />
* In that case, each tyre marked as "left" from the factory would have to be mounted on a wheel while respecting its "outside" marking (and then used only on the left side of the vehicle), and the same analogy goes for each tyre marked "right" from the factory.<br />
** It should now be clear why this tread layout is rather rare, because of a high risk of improper mounting by trained monkeys (most tyre installers and car mechanics).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of tyres with asymmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Uniroyal RainSport 3 - representative image.jpg|Uniroyal RainSport 3<br />
Tyre Michelin Pilot Primacy - representative image.jpg|Michelin Pilot Primacy<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Tyre Michelin Pilot Primacy - two tyres on left and right positions.jpg|thumb|center|Example of a pair of Michelin Pilot Primacy tyres when mounted for a left and for a right position]]<br />
<br />
<br />
* For the few found tyre models with this layout, all of them exist either only in "left" or only in "right" tread layout (to keep the matters simple for the sellers / installers / buyers).<br />
* However this means that the tyres on one side of the vehicle will always be improperly mounted.<br />
** They will be either in reverse direction of motion, or with outside portion of the tread on the inside portion of the wheel!<br />
* That's exactly how each car with such tyres rolls around in practice! - seen and confirmed.<br />
* This interesting issue is still under investigation.<br />
* Why did those manufacturers dare to make such tyres when they knew that they can not be properly mounted on one side of the vehicle?<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Summary of tread layouts ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all terrain use, bi/non-directional treads (either symmetric or asymmetric) are definitely recommended.<br />
** Main reason: they are the prerequisite for the very good practice of [[#Using five identical tyres|using five identical tyres]].<br />
** Asymmetric treads are in theory better (more versatile) than symmetric treads, but this of course varies in practice, depending on a comparison between particular tyre models.<br />
* (Uni)directional treads should generally be avoided for all terrain use.<br />
** Main reason: they prevent you from [[#Using five identical tyres|using five identical tyres]].<br />
* (Uni)directional treads' performance virtues are typically best utilized in very high-speed summer tyres, in winter tyres when used in harsh snowy/icy conditions, or in MT tyres when used mostly in deep mud.<br />
** If that is the predominantly expected terrain, then (uni)directional tyres might be worthy of consideration.<br />
** If you will be using [[#Using six identical tyres|six identical tyres]], then (uni)directional tyres provide (almost) no restrictions when compared to bi/non-directional tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre suitability for different weather conditions ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* The primary ingredient in tyres is rubber.<br />
** Various important physical characteristics of rubber are quite susceptible to the ambient temperature - it's just in rubber's nature.<br />
* Therefore, it is extremely difficult (if not impossible) to make a tyre which performs (and wears out) equally well in all weather conditions and in all yearly seasons.<br />
* In certain parts of the world, the difference between maximum daily ambient temperatures in summer and minimum nightly temperatures in winter can be higher than 60 degrees Celsius!<br />
** The difference in road temperature can even be more than 100 degrees Celsius, because the road surface can get scorching hot during the summer.<br />
* On the other hand, in many other parts of the world, the difference in ambient and road temperatures between their summer and winter yearly seasons is much lower, sometimes as low as 10-15 degrees Celsius.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This large temperature discrepancy between different seasons in certain parts of the world is the reason why summer and winter tyres exist.<br />
** Life would be much simpler it there was no need for them.<br />
*** If you manage to invent a compound that can completely replace rubber in tyres and also completely eliminate their temperature dependency, you will be one of the richest and most celebrated persons on Earth, plus a Nobel prize winner.<br />
**** Imagine having personal airplanes, yachts, space shuttles, unlimited power, unlimited access to purest drugs, a brigade of slaves and of course more females in a grand harem than all Ottoman sultans and Arab sheiks have ever had combined! <br />
* However, in the recent decades, a special category of allegedly "all season" tyres has began to emerge.<br />
** Such tyres are advertised to be a universal solution which performs equally well in any weather condition or ambient temperature.<br />
** Numerous real world tests show that the effectiveness of all season tyres strongly depends on how "far" is their ambient temperature operating range "stretched".<br />
** In other words, an all season tyre might perform quite satisfactory (equally well) in all weather conditions if the difference between the extremes of those conditions is relatively small (like in tropical or mediterranean climates for example).<br />
** However, most all season tyres fail to perform even close to equally well when the ambient temperature difference between the "warm" and "cold" conditions is relatively high (like in some continental climates for example).<br />
* Another worthy note is that in practice, most "all season" tyres in the world wide tyre industry are actually winter tyres which have been "enhanced" to handle the warmer weather better than a standard winter tyre.<br />
** This means that most "all season" tyres are better suited for relatively cold regions than for relatively hot regions of the world.<br />
** One known exception to this design philosophy is Michelin's [https://www.michelinman.com/tire/michelin/cross-climate-plus CrossClimate Plus] (and its predecessor CrossClimate) all-season tyre model, which is a summer tyre which is enhanced for use in cold conditions. It got a lot of praise.<br />
* So to conclude, an all-season tyre is usually either a winter or a summer tyre that has improved / wider temperature operating range than an ordinary winter or summer tyre, but it's certainly not immune to differences in ambient temperature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since the difference between summer and winter ambient and road conditions varies significantly between various regions of the world (often even within the same country), there is no worldwide standard for determining and marking the suitability of tyres for all weather conditions.<br />
** In other words, there is no official standard to say what the "all season" claim would actually encompass in terms of actual weather conditions.<br />
* Therefore, each tyre manufacturer may label a certain tyre model as a "summer" or a "winter" tyre in one world market, and simultaneously label it as an "all season" tyre in another world market.<br />
* It all comes down to practical application - a winter / summer / spring / autumn on a Mediterranean coastline is certainly not the same as winter / summer / spring / autumn in the Alps for example.<br />
* So it is logical that a certain tyre model may be marketed as an all season tyre in Greece or in Portugal for example and as a summer only tyre in Poland or in Finland.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Possible inadequate performance of all-season tyres in extreme (hot / cold) operating conditions may be partially mitigated by having a leisure and defensive driving style.<br />
** Such driving style is generally recommended when driving any 4WD vehicle.<br />
*** Reason: most 4WD vehicles have high center of gravity, which increases their tendency to roll over in case of collisions or having to perform an evasive maneuver. They also have longer braking stopping distances than ordinary passenger vehicles, and they guzzle significantly more fuel when driven sharply.<br />
* Conclusion: Even if your local climate causes relatively high ambient temperature differences during different times of the year, using all-season tyres might still be quite a viable option if you always drive your vehicle defensively and carefully.<br />
** In other words, the weaknesses of all-season tyres in extremely warm or cold weather might not become so critical when driving slowly and carefully.<br />
* ''All-season'' tyre type is best combined with ''all-terrain'' carcass and tread construction - then it's truly a tyre for ''All and All''!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Choosing tyre size ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Reasons and benefits ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Why would you want to change your tyre size?<br />
* Well, for all terrain vehicles, the usual strive is to increase ground clearance.<br />
** Increasing wheel diameter by increasing tyre profile (the second number in tyre size marking) is the most effective way to achieve this.<br />
*** It lifts the entire vehicle (including the axles!), and is dead simple to do for mild increases.<br />
** There are additional advantages of increasing the tyre profile ("tyre height").<br />
*** This is mentioned in the [[#Tyre profiles|"Tyre profiles"]] chapter.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|When a wheel diameter is changed by a certain amount, the vehicle's (and the axles') ground clearance will change by only half as much (by the amount of wheel's radius change).<br> Basic school geometry explains why.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Issues and risks ===<br />
<br />
<br />
'''However, increasing the wheel circumference/radius incurs the following technical issues:'''<br />
# The vehicle will accelerate harder / slower and will move faster downhill on engine braking (in any gear);<br />
# Transmission will have a heavier duty to perform;<br />
#* This leads to premature wear in the long term;<br />
# Fuel economy is slightly decreased;<br />
#* This is mostly because of harder acceleration;<br />
# Speedometer and tachometer measurement will change as much as the circumference has changed;<br />
# Larger tyres might not fit;<br />
#* They might rub on the bodywork when the front wheels are turning left/right, or when the suspension is compressed on uneven terrain;<br />
# The larger spare tyre might not fit in its spare position (contact with some vehicle body parts) and/or in its case/cover;<br />
# Using snow/mud chains can be risky or impossible, because of (much) less available clearance between the wheels and the surrounding bodywork and mechanical components.<br />
#* However, 4WD vehicles might need snow/mud chains only on steep icy terrain, or for plowing very deep snow.<br />
#* A 4WD vehicle with AT tyres also could benefit of chains in deep soft muddy terrain. <br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* The extent / severity of these issues highly depends on how much the wheel radius has been increased.<br />
** They should be negligible to slight at most, if you stay roughly within +-3% of the factory size.<br />
* Using too wide tyres also induces some of these issues and risks.<br />
** Also, very wide tyres significantly increase the drag force when pulling a bogged vehicle from deep mud.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of these technical issues can be (and usually have to be) remedied in case of significant tyre size increases:<br />
# Impact on vehicle's acceleration and engine braking can be remedied by altering the transmission gears ("regearing").<br />
#* Regearing the transmission will also remedy the load on some parts of the transmission.<br />
#** However, some parts, like the wheel bearings for example, will remain under heavier duty;<br />
# Tyres can be made to fit properly by either or both of the two methods:<br />
## By lifting the vehicle's body or suspension;<br />
## By altering the bodywork (trimming the wheel arches, inner arch linings, etc.) (usually irreversibly), the extent of which highly depends on tyre size;<br />
# In Jimny's case, the larger spare tyre can be made to fit to the tailgate by installing a spacer on the tyre holder;<br />
#* However, the spare tyre vinyl cover or hard spare tyre case has to be custom-made (if badly needed);<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* Some of the mentioned remedies can be quite expensive to apply, and might also imply further modifications.<br />
** For example, higher suspension lifts require modified radius arm bushes, brake hoses, propeller shafts, adding wheel spacers, buying a new loan at the bank ....<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|Using a non-factory tyre size might be illegal or require some vehicle recertification, depending on country or region.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Impact of larger tyres on fuel economy ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Introduction ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using larger tyres certainly negatively impacts fuel economy.<br />
** However, calculating how much is not straightforward!<br />
* There is an important factor of calculation which most people do not take into account, and then they get skewed results.<br />
** The factor is that, with larger tyres, the odometer will record less distance than the vehicle has actually traveled.<br />
*** '''Without''' counting this factor in, the fuel consumption figures get skewed for the worse (the calculated consumption falsely shows to be even higher than it actually is).<br />
* To count this factor in, you have to calculate the percentage of odometer reading mismatch, and multiply it with the odometer reading (to correct the reading to the true value).<br />
** Read more below for the details.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Full details ====<br />
<br />
<br />
The standard method of calculating fuel consumption in practice (in "<font face="courier">l / 100 km</font>" measuring unit) is:<br />
# Fill in a full fuel tank of fuel.<br />
#* Then note the current odometer reading.<br />
# Drive until the fuel tank gets to a (preferably) reserve level.<br />
# Fill in a full fuel tank of fuel again.<br />
#* Then note the current odometer reading.<br />
#* Also note how much fuel was poured in.<br />
* The amount of poured fuel during the last fill is the parameter "<font face="courier">F</font>".<br />
* Calculate the difference between the two odometer readings.<br />
#* That is the parameter "<font face="courier">S</font>".<br />
* The formula to calculate the fuel consumption "<font face="courier">C</font>" is: <font face="courier">'''C = 100 * F / S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
An example:<br />
* After traveling for <font face="courier">385 km</font> since the last full fuel tank fill, the amount of poured fuel to fill a fuel tank was <font face="courier">34,5 l</font>.<br />
* The calculated fuel consumption: <font face="courier">C = 100 * 34,5 / 385 = '''8,96''' l / 100 km</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This method of calculation works just fine when using stock sized tyres.<br />
* When using larger tyres, the odometer (and speedometer) reading (parameter "<font face="courier">S</font>") is skewed (incorrect) because the device is calibrated for the stock tyre size (wheel ''circumference'').<br />
* The circumference of a wheel in fact represents exactly the path that the wheel travels for one full wheel rotation.<br />
* The speedometer and odometer only count the wheel rotations (by counting the rotations of some particular gear in the transmission), and they expect the wheel circumference to be close to the theoretical stock size (it always varies slightly due to tyre construction and varying tread depth).<br />
** Therefore, when a larger diameter wheel is used, the odometer will count less distance than the vehicle has actually traveled in real life.<br />
*** The amount of skew is directly proportional to the amount of wheel circumference change.<br />
<br />
<br />
An example:<br />
* The theoretical diameter "<font face="courier">D1</font>" of a stock sized tyre (<font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font>) is <font face="courier">668,0 mm</font>.<br />
** Its circumference "<font face="courier">C1</font>" is: <font face="courier">C1 = D1 * pi = 668,0 * pi = 2098,58 mm</font>.<br />
* The theoretical diameter "<font face="courier">D2</font>" of a <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> tyre is <font face="courier">703,5 mm</font>.<br />
** Its circumference "<font face="courier">C2</font>" is: <font face="courier">C2 = D2 * pi = 703,5 * pi = 2210,11 mm</font>.<br />
* The difference: <font face="courier">C2 - C1 = 111,53 mm = 11,2 cm</font>.<br />
** That is how much additional distance the larger wheel will travel with each wheel rotation!<br />
* It might not look like much for one wheel rotation, but it's actually a <font face="courier">(C2 / C1 - 1) * 100 = 5,31%</font> increase in wheel circumference.<br />
** This directly translates to <font face="courier">'''5,31%'''</font> increase in the path traveled, for <font face="courier">'''any'''</font> distance.<br />
*** That means, when your odometer shows that you have traveled <font face="courier">1000 km</font> with these larger tyres, you have actually traveled circa <font face="courier">1053 km</font>!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Now, if you keep on using the standard fuel consumption calculation formula with the larger tyres (without factoring in the skew in the odometer reading), you will get skewed results.<br />
** Because you have actually traveled more distance (and therefore used more fuel) than your odometer shows, the calculated fuel consumption will be higher than it actually is.<br />
* You will find many driver reports/complaints on the Internet of increased fuel consumption after installing larger tyres, where many drivers even provide "calculated" fuel consumption figures.<br />
** However, most of those people have not factored in this odometer reading skew, rendering their results incompetent.<br />
** If someone has not mentioned that they had factored in the skew in the odometer reading when calculating fuel consumption with larger tyres, than don't trust their fuel consumption figures.<br />
<br />
<br />
To continue on the above to examples:<br />
* You have <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> tyres.<br />
** Their theoretical circumference is <font face="courier">5,31%</font> larger than the theoretical circumference of stock-sized tyres (<font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font>).<br />
* The recorded odometer difference "<font face="courier">S</font>" between two full fuel tank fills is <font face="courier">385 km</font>.<br />
* The amount of filled fuel "<font face="courier">F</font>" during the last fuel fill was <font face="courier">34,5 l</font>.<br />
* Standard calculation (''without'' factoring the skew in odometer reading): <font face="courier">C = 100 * F / S = 100 * 34,5 / 385 = '''8,96''' l / 100 km</font>.<br />
* However, if you factor in the skew in the odometer reading: <font face="courier">S' = S * 1,0531</font><br />
* Now, the new ('''correct''') calculation: <font face="courier">C = 100 * F / S' = 100 * 34,5 / (385 * 1,0531) = '''8,51''' l / 100 km</font>!<br />
* This is a difference of <font face="courier">'''0,45''' l / 100 km</font>!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusion ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* While the fuel consumption does slightly increase with larger tyres, it isn't nearly as much as standard "calculations / measurements" would indicate.<br />
* To accurately calculate / measure the fuel consumption with larger than stock size tyres, you need to determine the percentage of change in wheel circumference compared to stock size, and then include that factor in the standard formula for calculating fuel consumption.<br />
* The percentage of change in wheel circumference is parameter "<font face="courier">P</font>".<br />
* The final formula (<font face="courier">l / 100 km</font> unit) is: <font face="courier">'''C = 100 * F / (S * (1 + P/100))'''</font><br />
<br />
<br />
The percentage of change in wheel circumference between stock tyre size and other commonly used sizes with Jimnys can be found in one of the tables in the chapter [[#Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny wheels|'''"Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny wheels"''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny factory wheel specification ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The specifications of both Jimny 3 and Jimny 4 OEM wheels (both alloy and steel) are <font face="courier">5.5Jx15 ET5</font>.<br />
<br />
Wheel stud mounting specification ("PCD" parameter) for Jimny 3 and Jimny 4 is <font face="courier">5 x 139.7</font>.<br />
<br />
{{note|Some Japanese domestic market (JDM) Jimny models might have different specifications than these.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny factory tyre specification and approved specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 factory tyre specification(s) ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
Valid for all Jimnys 3 (with exceptions noted below):<br />
* Tyre size is <font face="courier">'''205 / 70 / R15'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre load carrying index is <font face="courier">'''96'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre maximum velocity index is <font face="courier">'''S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
These are the known exceptions:<br />
* Some JDM (Japanese domestic market) models (possibly <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font>?, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** Some JDM Jimny models are smaller / lighter, and hence narrower tyres.<br />
** The Japanese Jimny XC/XG models manufactured in 2017 have a tyre size of <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R16</font> (unknown load and velocity).<br />
* Brazilian "4sport" and "4work" editions before 2017 production year (<font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** They have different front bumper, wheel arches and some body lift to accommodate the tyres.<br />
* 2WD/RWD-only "el-cheapo" Jimnys (without 4WD mechanics), produced from 1998 to approx 2001 (<font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font>, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** Suzuki probably chose this size to aid grip in wet and snowy conditions.<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes on factory specifications:<br />
<br />
* Size <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> is also the factory tyre size on Suzuki Vitara / Escudo / Sidekick 1 (1988-1998, somewhere up to 2004) and many Suzuki SJ413 / Samurai editions.<br />
** It is not known if Vitara and SJ41x models use the same load and velocity specifications or not.<br />
* While the size <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font> appears to be much smaller than <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> on a first "numeric" glance, the tyre radius (and implicitly ground clearance) is just 3,5 mm smaller.<br />
** So, the "smaller" size is actually quite competitive to the "normal" one.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 4 factory tyre specification(s) ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
Valid for all Jimnys 4 (with exceptions noted below):<br />
* Tyre size is <font face="courier">'''195 / 80 / R15'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre load carrying index is <font face="courier">'''96'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre maximum velocity index is <font face="courier">'''S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
These are the known exceptions:<br />
* ''Write any known exceptions here!''<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes on factory sizes:<br />
* ''Write any additional notes here!''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Approved non-factory tyre specifications ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* According to some South African and Australian forums (example: [http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/67086-Approved-Jimny-tires this forum topic]), their local Suzuki dealers' official policy is to allow +-3% variation in wheel diameter.<br />
** Therefore, if your Jimny is under warranty (or you want to be mechanically moral), +-3% is your expansion border.<br />
* As far as it is known, no vehicle manufacturer sets restrictions on using tyres with higher load and/or velocity rating(s) compared to factory specifications (they just restrict not to use lower than factory specified).<br />
** While a higher tyre velocity specification certainly can't hurt in any regard, a higher load specification '''can have''' negative consequences, especially on a super-light vehicle like any Jimny.<br />
*** Read the chapter about C and LT tyres for more info about consequences when using tyres with higher load rating than specified by vehicle manufacturer.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|If you want to be certain if a desired non-factory tyre specification would be officially approved, then check with your local Suzuki dealer!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny's stock wheels ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Quick and simple decision ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The three most popular, non-extreme size upgrades from Jimny 3's factory size of <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> are to:<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">205 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''10 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is +3%;<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">195 / 80 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''13 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is +3,8%;<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''18 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is a moderate +5,3%;<br />
<br />
<br />
Jimny 4's stock tyre size of <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> is already quite good for all-terrain use. The only possible non-extreme size upgrade from it is to:<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''5 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is only +1,5%, but tyre width increase is 2 cm;<br />
<br />
<br />
A side note: If your desired tyre model is not available in Jimny 4's stock size of <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font>, a good "close match" alternative is the size <font face="courier">205 / 75 / R15</font>. With that size, you will lose only a negligible 2 mm of ground clearance and the negative consequences of having (only) 5% wider track will not be significant.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, even these non-extreme size upgrades '''may''' impose certain risks of collisions between tyres and the vehicle body in some vehicle configurations.<br />
** That mostly depends if the vehicle has front mudflaps or not, if wheel spacers are used, etc.<br />
*** For Jimny 3, another factor of risk is if the vehicle has 2nd gen. front bumper or not.<br />
* For Jimny 3, the overall risk is generally the lowest with the first size in the list, and the highest with the third size in the list.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Any tyre size upgrade will also introduce certain deviations in vehicle's driving characteristics (road handling, acceleration, top speed, engine braking, transmission's stress).<br />
** However, for these three non-extreme size upgrades, those deviations range from "negligible" to "small".<br />
* For Jimny 3, the first size in the list is the least deviant, as it provides the smallest diameter change, while also keeping the same tyre width.<br />
* For Jimny 4, that only non-extreme size upgrade will definitely increase fuel consumption and possibly reduce traction on slippery roads, as the tyre profile is 10% wider than stock.<br />
** Wider tyre - more dry road rolling friction and weaker road holding on packed snow and ice.<br />
<br />
<br />
For Jimnys 3:<br />
* Bear in mind that while the first size '''might''' be allowed by Suzuki (depending on company's regional policy), the second and third sizes are definitely not allowed by Suzuki (regional exceptions may apply).<br />
<br />
For any Jimny generation:<br />
* Bear in mind that ANY tyre and/or wheel ("rim") sizes apart from those which are strictly specified in vehicle's handbook or vehicle's registration documents are prohibited in certain countries (example: Germany)!<br />
** In such cases, the vehicle usually has to be put through a state-prescribed certification process in order to legalize the use of a desired different tyre and/or wheel ("rim") size.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|MT class tyres, and especially "remoulded" (retreaded) tyres, typically deviate significantly from their theoretical sizes (they tend to be quite larger)!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Regarding "tyre vs. vehicle body" collision risks ====<br />
<br />
<br />
===== For Jimny 3 =====<br />
<br />
<br />
Sizes <font face="courier">205 / 75 / R15</font> and <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> generally have no risks of collisions with the vehicle's body, with two exceptions:<br />
# If you have a 2nd gen. front bumper (see below), you might have to straighten it if it is sagged, or trim it just slightly (invisibly) on the bottom (simple job with a grinding tool).<br />
# If you have front mud flaps, you might have to trim a plastic spacer behind them (which is easy to dismount and mount) by approx 10-15 mm.<br />
<br />
<br />
Size <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> could be more problematic:<br />
* It may require some trimming of the bottom of the front bumper, especially if it is a 2nd gen. bumper. <br />
* Front mudflaps will probably need to be removed.<br />
* The spare tyre might contact with the rear bumper.<br />
* Wheel arch trimming is generally not needed, except if wheel spacers are used without a lift.<br />
* Brazilian "HR" (2010-2012) "4sport" and "4work" (untill 2016) Jimny editions (which came with "<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>" tyres from the factory), also came with an approximate 25 mm body lift from the factory (to remedy the collision risks).<br />
** The Brazilian "4sport" edition also had a minimalist front bumper, which increased the clearance in front of front tyres (eliminating the collision risk when steering) and provided higher approach angle.<br />
<br />
<br />
===== For Jimny 4 =====<br />
<br />
<br />
''Write about any collission risks for the size 215 / 75 / R15 on a Jimny 4 here ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Final quick notes ====<br />
<br />
<br />
This was a quick and simple guide to the issue of tyre sizes.<br />
<br />
{{note|If you have or expect collision issues between your existing or planned tyres and the vehicle, you can remedy them by [[Lifting the vehicle|'''Lifting the vehicle''']] and/or by [[Wheel arch trimming|'''Trimming the wheel arches''']] and/or by trimming the front bumper.}}<br />
<br />
{{note|If you use a pendant-style tow bar mounted bicycle carrier, a wider spare tyre might collide with the bicycle carrier. This depends on how long the tow ball + tow neck section is.<br>Read [[Tow bar|"'''Tow bar'''"]] and [[Bicycle carriers|"'''Bicycle carriers'''"]] wiki articles for more information.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Thorough consideration ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}<br />
This chapter is for those who want to fully understand the possible effects and issues when using non-stock tyre sizes, and for those who intend to use significantly larger tyres than the stock size ones.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The following two tables contain detailed information on effects of various non-stock tyre sizes for Suzuki Jimny 2 (a.k.a. "Samurai" / SJ41x) and Suzuki Jimny 3 (a.k.a. SN41x).<br />
** Many of the effects and issues from the tables below are rarely taken into consideration until it is too late!<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, some general remarks about the tables below:<br />
* The two tables used to be a single large table, but it was split into two tables (a "left" part and a "right" part) in order to improve readability on-line and when printed.<br />
* The data in the first table is valid both for Jimny 2 and 3, as it mostly contains theoretically calculated mathematical figures and some general common comments.<br />
** Also, stated gearing deviations in the first table affect both vehicle models in a similar amount.<br />
** Some of the data from the first table could also be useful to Jimny 4 owners (for example: stated tyre dimensions for each tyre size).<br />
* All the data in the second table is Jimny 3 specific and deals only with the risks of collisions between the tyres (wheels) and Jimny 3's various body parts.<br />
** Reason: Jimny 2s typically have smaller body panels and therefore larger clearances around the wheels, so there are typically much lower risks of collisions.<br />
* All tyre sizes from these tables should fit on Jimny 2's and 3's stock steel and alloy wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The content of both tables was compiled by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek].<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bosanek sourced the data in the second table in smaller part from his personal experience, and in larger part from various forum topics here and there throughout the Internet.<br />
* Most of the collision risk evaluation comments in the second table should be taken as rough guidelines only, and not as precise statements.<br />
*# Reason 1: Every Jimny 3's "stance/posture" (and therefore clearance around the wheels) is slightly different (suspension sags a bit over time and use, the bumpers can get sagged too, etc.);<br />
*# Reason 2: There can be slight or even significant dimensional variations between different tyre models of the same theoretical size (read more below);<br />
<br />
<br />
Some additional notes:<br />
# Percentage of circumference / diameter change in the first table is also the percentage of speedometer and tachometer measurement change.<br />
# Suzuki's official allowed wheel diameter change (shown in the first table) for Jimny 3 is within +-3%.<br />
# Wheel diameter is most affected by the "H" parameter (tyre sidewall height). Tyre width is less important.<br />
#* For example, the diameter of a <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> tyre is larger than the diameter of a <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> tyre!<br />
#* The former tyre size is narrower but higher than the latter tyre size!<br />
# Tyre sizes in real life do not have to be 100% accurate as their theoretical measurements, because of variations in tyre construction for different tyre models.<br />
#* Tyres in AT class and especially MT class tend to deviate less or more from theoretical measurements, because of their "clunkier" and deeper treads and/or sidewalls.<br />
#* The most deviant by far (in terms of sizing) are "retreaded" tyres (remoulded, refurbrished, "protect", etc.). They are typically significantly larger than specified by standard sizing numbers.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="3" | Tyre size parameters<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>diameter<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>radius<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Sidewall<br>height<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>circumference<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Circumference<br>change from<br>stock size [%]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Fits into Suzuki's<br>+- 3% allowed variation?<br />
! rowspan="2" | Ground clearance<br>change from<br>stock size [mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | General comment<br />
! rowspan="2" | Gearing deviation<br>(acceleration, top speed, engine<br>braking, odo/speedo innacuracies)<br />
|-<br />
! W<br />
! H<br />
! R<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 65<br />
| 15<br />
| 634,5<br />
| 317,3<br />
| 126,8<br />
| 1993<br />
| -5,01<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| -17<br />
| Very cheap size for very cheapish owners<br />
| Significant, but not mechanically stressing as it is negative<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 654,0<br />
| 327,0<br />
| 136,5<br />
| 2055<br />
| -2,1<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| -7<br />
| Cheap size for cheapish owners<br />
| Negligible<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 673,5<br />
| 336,8<br />
| 146,3<br />
| 2116<br />
| +0,82<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| +3<br />
| No real benefit over factory size<br />
| Practically none<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 693,0<br />
| 346,5<br />
| 156,0<br />
| 2177<br />
| +3,74<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +13<br />
| Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Minor to small<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 82<br />
| 15<br />
| 700,8<br />
| 350,4<br />
| 159,9<br />
| 2202<br />
| +4,91<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +16<br />
| Rare size. Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Small to moderate<br />
|- style="background:#E6E6FF"<br />
| 205<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 668,0<br />
| 334,0<br />
| 143,5<br />
| 2099<br />
| 0<br />
| <span style="color: #0000FF;">'''HELL YES'''</span><br />
| 0<br />
| Factory Samurai / Jimny dimension<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFF2E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 688,5<br />
| 344,3<br />
| 153,8<br />
| 2163<br />
| +3,07<br />
| <span style="color: #FF9900;">'''PROBABLY YES'''</span><br />
| +10<br />
| Mild gains with rarely any collisions or deviations.<br><br>Recommended as the simplest upgrade.<br />
| Negligible to minor<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 709,0<br />
| 354,5<br />
| 164,0<br />
| 2227<br />
| +6,14<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +21<br />
| Rare size. Very good size for off roading.<br>Significant gains with moderate risks and deviations.<br />
| Significant, possibly mechanically stressing.<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 215<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 682,0<br />
| 341,0<br />
| 150,5<br />
| 2143<br />
| +2,1<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| +7<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Negligible<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 215<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 703,5<br />
| 351,8<br />
| 161,3<br />
| 2210<br />
| +5,31<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +18<br />
| Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Small to moderate<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 215<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 725,0<br />
| 362,5<br />
| 172,0<br />
| 2278<br />
| +8,53<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +29<br />
| Rare size. Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Large, requires regearing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 225<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 696,0<br />
| 348,0<br />
| 157,5<br />
| 2187<br />
| +4,19<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +14<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Minor to small<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 718,5<br />
| 359,3<br />
| 168,8<br />
| 2257<br />
| +7,56<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +25<br />
| Very good size for off roading.<br>Significant gains with moderate risks and deviations.<br />
| Large, needs regearing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 741,0<br />
| 370,5<br />
| 180,0<br />
| 2328<br />
| +10,93<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +37<br />
| Rare size. Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 710,0<br />
| 355,0<br />
| 164,5<br />
| 2231<br />
| +6,29<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +21<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Significant, mechanically stressing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 733,5<br />
| 366,8<br />
| 176,3<br />
| 2304<br />
| +9,81<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +33<br />
| Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 757,0<br />
| 378,5<br />
| 188,0<br />
| 2378<br />
| +13,32<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +45<br />
| Extremely good size for off roading.<br>Extreme gains with extreme risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="3" | Tyre size parameters<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs.<br>front bumper collision<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs. front mud flap collision<br>(if front mud flaps are fitted)<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs.<br>wheel arch collision<br />
! rowspan="2" | Risk of spare tyre vs.<br>rear door collision<br />
! rowspan="2" | Risk of spare tyre vs.<br>rear bumper collision<br />
|-<br />
! W<br />
! H<br />
! R<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
|-<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 65<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| If 2nd. gen front bumper is used, might require (invisible) minor front bumper bottom trimming.<br>Otherwise, no risk.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br>Some bottom trimming of front bumper cures it.<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| Very low<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 82<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br>Some bottom trimming of front bumper cures it.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| Low<br />
|- style="background:#E6E6FF"<br />
| 205<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFF2E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| None, except if the 2nd gen. bumper is sagged.<br />
| If 2nd. gen front bumper is used, might require (invisible) minor front bumper bottom trimming.<br>Otherwise, no risk.<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| ?<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| None<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 215<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| Usually none<br />
| None<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 215<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate to severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| Possible<br />
| None<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 215<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| None<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 225<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| ?<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate to severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The availability of different tyre models in a desired tyre size can vary significantly.<br>Not all tyres are manufactured in every listed tyre size for every market or all the time.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* As it is evident from the tables above, even if you choose to stay within Suzuki's alleged +3% allowed wheel diameter increase, there are several tyre profiles which can be used to achieve the goal of higher ground clearance.<br />
* It is preferred to achieve the goal by increasing sidewall height (second number in tyre profile sizing code) instead of altering tyre width (first number in tyre profile sizing code).<br />
* Maximum "gain" is achieved if both are increased at the same time.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre models in Jimny-compatible sizes ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* There is a wide variety of HT, AT and MT class tyre models which are available in Jimny-compatible sizes.<br />
** It would be a pity to use an ordinary limousine road tyre instead!<br />
<br />
<br />
* [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS8QK57r_0BElB4ZZNpcpr6DepJhhxnkl_8oSq8ZhJ29o8dHoknaYUi3H8nGBUlQWYyaHD_6qCHv8b_/pubhtml?gid=1&single=true '''This table'''] (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') contains the list of all brand-name HT, AT and MT tyres which he has found on the worldwide market.<br />
** In addition to the list of tyre models, that table also contains the availability of each tyre model in most popular Jimny-compatible sizes!<br />
* A lot of time has been spent populating that table, and adding custom remarks there.<br />
* The table is still incomplete in some details, but will be updated from time to time.<br />
** The sizing availability is the most incomplete, as it takes a lot of investigation to fill the required data for each tyre model.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Not all of those tyre models in the list are available in sizes which are compatible for Jimny. Sizing availability might depend on the market, and can change for better or worse at any time.}}<br />
<br />
Therefore, once you settle on your desired tyre size, now you can browse through tyre models and choose the one which is available in that size and suits your criteria the best.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== User experiences with certain tyre models ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Info about stock tyre models as fitted by Suzuki:<br />
* Stock tyre model on Jimny 3 and 4 is [https://www.bridgestone.co.uk/car-tyres/summer-tyres-dueler/h-t-684-ii/ Bridgestone Dueler H/T 684 II].<br />
* It is a summer HT tyre designed predominantly for on-road use.<br />
** Nothing remarkable at all.<br />
<br />
<br />
Here are the AT tyre models with which Jimny owners have had great or quite good experiences with:<br />
* Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+<br />
* General Grabber AT (not AT2!)<br />
* Continental ContiCrossContact AT<br />
* BF Goodrich AT/KO2<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* All of the above listed tyre models have proven themselves as being very good on-road in any time of year, while also proving to be rather versatile off road.<br />
* Also, General has recently (09/2016) released model '''AT3''', which looks very interesting indeed.<br />
** Avoid the model AT2, it is very old and deprecated one!<br />
*** Grabber AT2 is actually older than Grabber AT.<br />
* Many other AT tyre brands and models not mentioned above might also be quite good - investigate on your own!<br />
<br />
<br />
If you insist on heavy-duty off-road performance (but still want to retain '''some''' on-road credibility), there are three such MT class tyre models with which Jimny 3 owners have been relatively satisfied with:<br />
* BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2<br />
* Hankook Dynapro MT (RT03)<br />
* Kumho Road Venture KL71 (''(uni)directional!'')<br />
* [http://www.maxxis.co.uk/catalog/tyre-3-21-trepador-radial-m8060#sizes Maxxis Trepador M8060] (''(uni)directional!'') ''(Martin Lines comment: I have found these particularly good on a standard Jimny)''<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* Many other MT tyre brands and models not mentioned above might also be quite good - investigate on your own!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Spare wheel and tyre usage ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* All proper all terrain vehicles, like all Jimny generations, come with a full size matching spare wheel and tyre, which are the same (identical) as the other four wheels and tyres.<br />
** That is for a reason.<br />
** The reason is that (most) 4WD vehicles have to be driven on '''all four''' identical tyres '''all''' the time.<br />
*** The spare wheel and tyre will, sooner or later, (at least temporarily) take place of one of the usual four wheels and tyres.<br />
* Therefore, that spare wheel and tyre are not meant to be just carried around and sit idle all the time.<br />
* For all terrain vehicles, the spare wheel and tyre are not a fashion accessory nor a "dead cargo".<br />
** They are an important operational element of the vehicle, as well as an important safety device.<br />
* Therefore, the spare wheel and tyre must not be overlooked.<br />
** They should be actively used.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Otherwise, there are multiple risks of staying stranded in the event of the simplest tyre puncture, or even damaging vehicle's transmission in the event that the spare wheel and tyre do indeed have to be used!<br />
* If you use only four same tyres in a typical 4-tyre rotation scheme, you might easily end up with only three half-worn same tyres - useless for a 4WD vehicle.<br />
** For example, a sidewall puncture is generally impossible to repair properly.<br />
*** You will have to discard the remaining three tyres and buy all four/five new tyres - what a waste. <br />
<br />
<br />
However, there are some rules and restrictions when actively using five same tyres - read more in the following subchapters.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using five identical tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Buy and use five same (identical) tyres! The spare tyre should not sit idle all the time! That is even written in each Jimny's owner manual.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* The spare wheel and tyre should be actively and periodically rotated together with the other four wheels and tyres, and all should be the same.<br />
** In other words, the 5th wheel and tyre should play an equal role and importance as the other four wheels and tyres.<br />
* In case of an all-terrain vehicle like the Jimny, that gives you so much benefits.<br />
** There is only one downside - you pay 25% more at once when buying the tyre set.<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1svFOPe-Z1xS2BbiYvr3jQbAortqZevZy74VC9wdo9Dk/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which shows the actual 5-tyre rotation scheme, and also lists "FOR" and "AGAINST" reasons to actively use all five identical tyres in a 5-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is a good and handy practice to rotate the tyres with every engine oil change.<br />
* If you recently bought a set of four new identical tyres (they have not got worn more than 1-2 mm at most), you still have time to buy the fifth one.<br />
** Reason: the first tyre rotation schedule has not yet been performed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The five-tyre rotation scheme is especially suited to practice when using all-season tyres. Many AT-class tyres are all-season.}}<br />
<br />
{{warning|If you have a hard or soft spare wheel cover, you won't be able to use it with a spare tyre which is larger than the stock size.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Warning against using (uni)directional tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Five-tyre rotation scheme is '''not''' practical with tyres which have (uni)directional treads.<br />
** Reason: each such tyre must be used on only one side of the vehicle, depending on how it was oriented during its mounting on the wheel.<br />
* (Uni)directional tyres require a [[#Using six identical tyres|'''six''' tyre rotation scheme]] (or a plain four tyre single-side rotation scheme).<br />
** See the chapter [[#Тyre tread symmetry and directionality|"Тyre tread symmetry and directionality"]] for details.<br />
* Therefore, when using five tyres, always use bi/non-directional tyres.<br />
* Luckily, most HT, AT and MT tyre models have symmetrical treads, but there are exceptions.<br />
** Beware of this!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tread (a)symmetry is not related to the above note about tread directionality.<br />
** In other words, either symmetric or asymmetric treads can be used, as long as they are bi/non-directional.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using six identical tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using six identical tyres in a six tyre rotation scheme provides the most "advanced" (double) redundancy and robustness.<br />
* It is very recommended for extended overland expeditions in remote areas, or when frequently venturing in some really hard core off roading where tyre or wheel damage is a major operating risk.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The major disadvantage of a six tyre rotation scheme is that it requires the purchase of a 6th wheel, preferably the same one as the existing five wheels.<br />
* Additional disadvantage is the required space to carry the sixth wheel in/on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Qo5wIgLnsA8Tuq7rBJHqTyQhv8TNW7RwPFTOm3PbBjQ/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which shows the actual 6-tyre rotation schemes (separately for bi/non-directional and for (uni)directional tyres), and also lists "FOR" and "AGAINST" reasons to actively use all six identical tyres in a 6-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Considerations when using (uni)directional tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you want to use tyres which have (uni)directional treads, the six tyre rotation scheme is your only "advanced" option, apart from the plain four tyre single-side rotation scheme (not recommended).<br />
** See the chapter [[#Тyre tread symmetry and directionality|"Тyre tread symmetry and directionality"]] for details on tyre tread directionality.<br />
* When using (uni)directional tyres in a six tyre rotation scheme, the tyres are split into two groups, each containing three tyres.<br />
** One group of tyres is used only on the left side of the vehicle, while the other group of tyres is used only on the right side of the vehicle.<br />
* Therefore, you always have one spare tyre per one side of the vehicle.<br />
** That is unless you own a Mercedes G63 6x6.<br />
*** Then you need an eight tyre rotation scheme.<br />
**** But then you probably have servants or slaves doing that care for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using a non-matching spare tyre ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Introduction ====<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Using (periodically rotating) a matching spare tyre together with the other four tyres is strongly recommended, as per the above chapter [[#Using five identical tyres|"'''Using five identical tyres'''"]].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
However, if, for whatever reason, a non-matching spare tyre has to be used on a 4WD vehicle, special caution has to be applied in order to avoid expensive transmission damage!<br />
<br />
This subchapter is a guide what to do in this unfortunate event.<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, a ''non-matching'' tyre in this context means any of the following:<br />
* Different tyre size (width or height) than the other four tyres;<br />
* Different tyre model than the other four tyres;<br />
* Tyre's tread depth more than 1 mm or 2 mm different than the tread depth of the other four tyres;<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The cause of the issue with using a non-matching spare tyre:<br />
* Any 4WD transmission with a non-existing center differential (or when a center differential is locked) expects the same rotational speed and rotational friction from all four wheels.<br />
* If that is not the case, the gears and shafts of the transmission literally tension and wind up because of the discrepancies caused by a non-matching wheel.<br />
** If the tension and wind up become sufficiently high, something in the transmission '''will''' break.<br />
* With a non-matching spare wheel in the game, the breaking point could be just a few wheel turns away!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Installation position ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* With part-time 4WD vehicles like all Jimny generations, the non-matching spare wheel should always be used on the front axle.<br />
** The reason is that the front wheels are disconnected from the entire transmission when the vehicle is in 2WD and 2WD-L mode, and therefore using a smaller wheel does not impact the transmission then. <br />
<br />
<br />
So, if one of your '''front''' tyres get punctured, just replace that wheel with your non-matching spare wheel and tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
However, if one of your '''rear''' tyres gets punctured, the procedure would be:<br />
# Remove the punctured rear wheel;<br />
# Remove one good front wheel;<br />
# Install that front wheel in the place of the punctured rear wheel;<br />
# Install the spare non-matching wheel in the place of the removed front wheel.<br />
<br />
That's a lot of work if it's hot, cold, wet, dusty, raining, windy or night time! But it is the only proper way.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Now, when the non-matching spare tyre is on your front axle, as long as you don't engage 4WD, you should be fine.<br />
** So, do your best to get to the nearest tyre repair workshop strictly in 2WD mode.<br />
* If you have manually operating front wheel hubs, make sure that they are disengaged all the time.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Using 4WD mode with a non-matching spare tyre ====<br />
<br />
<br />
If you get a puncture in the middle of offroading where you need 4WD to get to civilization, you are in trouble.<br />
<br />
<br />
* After installing the spare non-matching wheel on the front axle per the above instructions, constrain the use of 4WD only when it is absolutely necessary.<br />
* Disengage 4WD as soon as it is not strictly necessary, and engage it later when necessary again, and so on.<br />
* If you have manually operating front wheel hubs, you have to engage and disengage them every time in sync with engaging and disengaging 4WD.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Alternatively, using 2WD-L mode would be safe in regards of the issue of non-matching spare tyre, and it might provide enough aid to get you trough difficult sections instead of using 4WD.<br />
** However, all Jimnys (made currently up to 2019 at least) have to be modified first in order to enable 2WD-L transmission mode.<br />
** See the chapter [[2WD-L transmission mode]] for details.<br />
<br />
<br />
* While 4WD is used, the size or friction discrepancy on one wheel will cause '''constant''' transmission wind up as long as the vehicle is moving in 4WD.<br />
** However, as long as 4WD is used on rather slippery ground (snow, mud, very loose gravel), the wind up should be able to constantly relieve itself, without harmful consequences.<br />
* In other words, one wheel will have to ''continously'' "underslip" in order to compensate for the discrepancy.<br />
** Only very slippery ground can enable that.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The most difficult situation would be with rather rocky or bumpy '''dry''' road, where you usually need to use 4WD-L 1st gear to pass slowly.<br />
* Because the road is '''dry and/or rather solid''', there is not enough chance for the transmission to relieve itself of the continuous discrepancy (for a wheel to continuously underslip).<br />
** Therefore, transmission damage in these conditions is quite likely!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, if you have to use a non-matching spare tyre on a dry rocky or bumpy road, the best option is 2WD-L 1st gear.<br />
** However, if your Jimny is not modified to have 2WD-L mode, it might be better to use 2WD 1st gear instead of 4WD-L 1st gear.<br />
*** That means you have to go through faster, or drive "improperly" by riding the clutch and/or the brakes.<br />
* It is the driver's decision whether to risk the damage to the suspension done by going faster through rocks and bumps, or to the clutch if riding it, or on the other hand, to risk damage to the transmission in 4WD-L mode. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre air pressures ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{note|Changing your tyre pressures to suit the (off)road conditions is the '''most effective''' vehicle mod ever!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Learn and use the skills of tyre pressure management.<br />
* In general terms, reducing tyre pressure by 20-30% from stock on-road pressure is the operating norm for hard (rough) gravel and general off-road conditions.<br />
** For deep mud, deep snow, sand and other boggy conditions, even more pressure reduction can be used (but with caution).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=480 heights=360 class=center caption="Example of Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+ 205 / 75 / R15 tyres on a Jimny 3, when deflated from stock 1,7 bar to 1,1 bar"><br />
Tyre with reduced air pressure on a Jimny - A01.jpg|Notice the relatively large contact area with the ground<br />
Tyre with reduced air pressure on a Jimny - A02.jpg|Notice how the tyre deforms to accommodate uneven ground under it<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Reducing air pressure in tyres from standard on-road pressure usually provides significant advantages when driving on unpaved surfaces and in off-road conditions.<br />
* However, there are a few potential disadvantages and risks too, depending on the situation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Advantages and benefits ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Increased contact area with the ground, thus:<br />
** Improving traction on most surfaces;<br />
** Improving flotation on soft ground;<br />
* Softer behavior of the tyre, so the tyre absorbs a much larger portion of impacts and vibrations, thus:<br />
** Improving ride comfort;<br />
** Reducing vehicle stress;<br />
* The tread surface acts less stiffly when contacting rough, sharp or pointy objects on the ground, instead deforming gently over them, with the following benefits:<br />
** Reduced risk of tyre tread damage (cutting, chipping);<br />
** Reduced risk of punctures through tyre tread;<br />
<br />
<br />
The following video shows tyre tread puncture tests performed at different tyre pressures for three different tyre constructions:<br />
<br />
<youtube>9Kz8mmLkeks</youtube><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Disadvantages and risks ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Vehicle's ground clearance decreases slightly (usually about 1 cm for Jimnys) when tyres' air pressure is reduced by ~30%.<br />
* Tyre's sidewall "bulges out" more when the air pressure is significantly reduced (see pictures above).<br />
** This increases the risk of contacting the sidewall with sharp objects along the road.<br />
* On roads where there is a significant risk of tyre sidewalls contacting rough/sharp objects (for example deep rutted tracks with a lot of debris in the walls of the ruts), it might be better not to decrease tyre air pressures significantly.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|When tyre pressures are reduced (for any reason), vehicle's top speed should be limited to approx '''50 km/h''' / '''30 mph''' on tarmac roads, or ~ '''40 km/h''' / '''20 mph''' on gravel roads. Otherwise, the tyres might overheat and disintegrate prematurely!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
Increased contact area between the tyre and the ground has two negative side effects as well:<br />
* Increased tyre tread wear;<br />
* Increased fuel consumption (because of higher friction);<br />
<br />
<br />
However, these two disadvantages are more than compensated by the following:<br />
* Significantly improved comfort;<br />
* Significantly reduced vehicle vibrations/stress;<br />
** By the way, increased tyre wear can be considered an issue only if you keep driving on-road (slowly) with reduced tyre air pressures for long distances.<br />
** What is cheaper:<br />
*** To spend a bit more fuel and to replace the tyres more often due to increased tread wear when driving off-road?<br />
*** To replace suspension components (and tooth fillings) more often due to excessive vibrations?<br />
<br />
<br />
When tyre air pressure is reduced quite significantly (say 40% or more), two special risks emerge:<br />
* Dislodging (dismounting) the tyre from the wheel when turning sharply during relatively high vehicle velocity;<br />
** This is because the air inside the tyre actually holds the tyre pressed onto the wheel rims.<br />
** With significantly reduced air pressure, the holding force is much smaller, and it is more easily defeated with significant side-cornering forces.<br />
* Turning the wheel without turning the tyre (the wheel turns along its rotational axis);<br />
** This usually happens when a sudden high torque is applied ("stomping" the throttle "''fast'n'furious''" style).<br />
** The wheel literally "slips" inside the tyre.<br />
** The tyre usually still stays on the wheel, with minimum to no air loss during the incident.<br />
*** However, if wheel balancing weights had been used to balance that wheel, the wheel balancing will be spoiled afterwards (because the correlation of the wheel balancing weights to the tyre has been skewed).<br />
** This incident is usually not noticeable when it happens, but the wheel disbalance which it causes certainly will be!<br />
*** If wheel balancing beads (pellets) had been used to balance that wheel, than wheel balancing will not be affected.<br />
* So, the point is that you should not drive sharply when air pressures are significantly reduced, and you should not have an issue.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Dependency of tyre pressures on axle load ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Required / recommended tyre pressure generally also changes with load (weight on the axle).<br />
** The heavier the load, the more pressure (air quantity in the tyres) on that axle is required to carry it.<br />
* For almost any vehicle, manufacturers specify different tyre pressures for different loads.<br />
** For example - with the driver only, with full passengers with cargo, when towing a trailer, with loaded cargo bay, etc.<br />
* For all Jimnys (as far as it is known), Suzuki has not specified different tyre pressures for empty and laden conditions.<br />
** That is probably because all Jimny generations have such a small load rating (for Jimny 3, cca 300 kg at most - roughly 150 kg per axle!) that it does not matter that much.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Specific tyre pressures for Jimnys ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For Jimny 3, the factory recommended on-road tyre pressure for stock size tyres (<font face="Courier">'''205 / 70 / R15'''</font>) is <font face="Courier">'''1,6 bar'''</font> front and <font face="Courier">'''1,8 bar'''</font> rear.<br />
** Some Jimny owners even the tyre pressures to <font face="Courier">'''1,7 bar'''</font> on all four tyres, for simplicity.<br />
* For Jimny 4, the factory recommended on-road tyre pressure for stock size tyres (<font face="Courier">'''195 / 80 / R15'''</font>) is <font face="Courier">'''1,8 bar'''</font> front and <font face="Courier">'''1,9 bar'''</font> rear.<br />
* When driving on gravel roads or general off road, it is completely fine (and even advisable) to reduce the tyre pressure by <font face="Courier">'''25-30%'''</font> to <font face="Courier">'''1,25-1,15 bar'''</font> (for Jimny 3) or to <font face="Courier">'''1,40-1,30 bar'''</font> (for Jimny 4).<br />
** The difference in ride quality is '''astonishing''', while the traction is significantly improved.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Effect of tyre size on tyre pressures ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When using tyres which are larger than stock size, all (both on-road and off-road) tyre pressures should be reduced from the above written numbers.<br />
** Because it is the air itself (air molecules) that carries all the weight, the concept is to always have the same number of air molecules in the tyre for certain road and load conditions.<br />
* The larger the tyre, the '''more''' air molecules fit inside for the '''same''' tyre pressure.<br />
** So, to achieve the presence of the '''same''' number of air molecules in the tyre regardless of tyre size, a '''lower''' tyre pressure has to be used with a '''larger''' tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is no simple formula for calculating how much the on-road (and implicitly off-road) tyre pressure should be reduced with certain larger tyre sizes.<br />
** This topic is still under investigation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre air pressure measurement, inflation and deflation ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Measurement ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is compulsory to carry a good quality tyre pressure measurement tool.<br />
* It is best to buy products for which there is some verified good customer feedback.<br />
** Example is when browsing on Amazon web stores, which have the integrated system of customer opinions on products which are on sale.<br />
*** Don't just glance over the "feedback stars" - read a few meaningful opinions!<br />
**** Reason: many people give a certain product "five stars" just because it was delivered quickly and the packaging was nice and shiny!<br />
** Other source of customer feedback on certain products can be from various Internet forums.<br />
<br />
<br />
The choice of an analogue vs. a digital pressure measurement tool comes down to this:<br />
* Analogue ones are larger and also more sensitive to shocks (if you drop them for example);<br />
* Digital ones are usually easier to read;<br />
** This is especially important during night time;<br />
*** That is when a digital tool with illuminated display really comes in handy;<br />
* Digital ones usually use batteries.<br />
** Some use non-replaceable batteries, meaning that, once the battery is depleted, the tool is wasted.<br />
** Since all batteries perform poorly in cold weather, a relatively weak battery can render a digital tool non-functional in cold weather;<br />
* Analogue tools are much less sensitive to cold/heat and also to getting wet.<br />
* Some analogue tools also have an "air release" valve, enabling tyre deflation to be performed while monitoring the air pressure in real time.<br />
<br />
<br />
Conclusion: It is best to have one analogue and one digital tool, to back-up one another.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Inflation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is also very desirable to have your own portable 12 V air compressor.<br />
** Portable 12 V air compressors exist in various qualities, capabilities and prices.<br />
*** See more below.<br />
* There are also fixed in-car air compressor installations available, for very advanced users.<br />
*** You also get those as a factory fitment on many military vehicles and on the Mercedes G63 AMG 6x6.<br />
** The (expensive) ARB differential locker comes with its own air compressor to operate it.<br />
*** That air compressor can also be utilized for tyre inflation.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Two most important operational parameters of an air compressor are:<br />
# The volume of air (in litres) per minute that it pumps.<br />
#* If you haven't figured out yet what that means, this translates to how fast it is.<br />
# For how long can it work before it has to be turned off to cool itself (to avoid overheating).<br />
#* If this time is too short for your application, you will have to make a long pause just before inflating the 4th (final) tyre ...<br />
<br />
<br />
Other attributes of a portable air compressor to consider are:<br />
* The length of its power cable and the length of its air hose;<br />
** Too long cable and hose might not be that much desirable;<br />
*** It takes more work to untangle and to store them, and they take up more space when stored.<br />
* The way that the cable and the hose pack inside the compressor's housing (or around it);<br />
* Compressor's housing size and proportions;<br />
* If it has a practical and not too bulky case to store it in while it is not used;<br />
* Optional adapters for the air hose, to inflate bicycle tyres, balls, air mattresses, your butt or your ego ...<br />
* The presence of an analogue or a digital air pressure gauge (and its accuracy);<br />
** Also if the gauge is back-illuminated or not;<br />
* If it has an air release button or valve;<br />
** It enables you to deflate the tyre while the compressor is connected to it;<br />
*** This is useful if you accidentally over-inflate a tyre;<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you want to get a cheap, but good quality portable 12V tyre air compressor, try asking around at vehicle junkyards.<br />
* They might have OEM portable 12V tyre air compressors extracted from some dead commercial vehicles (usually vans).<br />
** Some commercial vehicles were initially sold with such tools as additional equipment together with a standard wheel jack, triangle, tow rope, etc.<br />
*** Such air compressors get seldom if ever used during their lifetime.<br />
* Therefore, an (almost) unused Mercedes, Peugeot, Toyota or Iveco etc. OEM air compressor might be just the right deal.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres can be inflated at many fuel filling stations too.<br />
** It is recommended do to so whenever there is a fuel filling station with an air compressor nearby.<br />
*** Reason: their equipment is usually much quicker than portable personal air compressors.<br />
* However, pressure measurement instruments at fuel filling stations ''generally'' should not be trusted, as they could be '''wildly''' inaccurate!<br />
** There are local exceptions of course, but this is a general rule.<br />
* So, use the air compressors at fuel filling stations for speed, but check the outcome with your trusted pressure measurement gauge.<br />
** Trusting that a publicly (ab)used pressure measurement instrument at a fuel filling station is accurate is like trusting that a prostitute has no STD.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Deflation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyre deflation can simply be done by the stone age era method - using sticks and stones.<br />
* There are various cheap and expensive tools, which enable ''fast'' and/or ''controlled'' tyre deflation.<br />
** The quality and usefulness of those tools vary widely.<br />
* However, both the speed and control aspects, which some of those tools provide, can be achieved by other (free) means.<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding deflation speed:<br />
* Since tyres on all Jimny generations are relatively small (compared to most 4WD vehicles), the practice has shown that using the stone age method is generally not much slower than with the advanced tools.<br />
** In other words, the time savings provided by most tyre deflation tools are hardly worth the cost and effort on such relatively small tyres.<br />
* Employing a passenger to deflate two tyres in parallel with you (using sticks and stones) is almost as fast as using most of those tools.<br />
** Just tell them that there ain't no free 4WD ride - they have to break some sweat for it!<br />
* Also beware that the method, by which all of those "fast" deflators achieve their speed, is by temporarily removing (dislodging) the valve core while they are attached to the valve.<br />
** This has two negative aspects:<br />
**# It wears the valve core, and after many such deflations, the valve core can become significantly worn and susceptible to failure;<br />
**#* When a valve core fails, your tyre will lose all air quicker than you can read this sentence;<br />
**# The deflation speed is so fast that it can easily over-deflate if you are not very well timed (or if the automatic deflation control is not super reliable);<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding controlled deflation:<br />
* First of all, the term "''controlled deflation''" means either:<br />
** To get an indication when the desired pressure reduction has been achieved (in order to manually stop further deflation);<br />
** To have the deflation process stop automatically when desired pressure reduction is achieved; <br />
* Many tyre air deflation tools promise one of those methods of controlled deflation.<br />
** However, beware that the reliability of their deflation control mechanisms can be questionable, even with the expensive products!<br />
* Luckily, there is a cheap (free) alternative method of controlled deflation, which simply uses your own brains.<br />
** The concept is based on the fact that, after several inflation-deflation iterations (while using a proper tyre air pressure measurement tool), you should be able to roughly determine how much time you need to deflate your tyres from your typical on-road tyre pressure to your typical off-road tyre pressure.<br />
*** For example, one experience says that it takes approximately <font face="Courier">'''25 seconds'''</font> to reduce a <font face="Courier">'''205 / 75 / R15'''</font> tyre's pressure from <font face="Courier">'''1,7 bar'''</font> to <font face="Courier">'''1,20-1,15 bar'''</font>.<br />
*** When you gain such experience, you won't have to stop the deflation and check the tyre pressure several times with the pressure measurement tools when deflating each tyre.<br />
**** In fact, your wrist watch will become your main tool.<br />
**** This way, you will be able to deflate your tyres in one go with solid certainty in the amount of achieved deflation.<br />
**** Your tyre air pressure measurement instrument will just serve you for eventually double-checking the outcome.<br />
<br />
<br />
However, there is one type of tyre air deflation tool which is certainly worthy of consideration:<br />
* It is a "dumb" die-cast, push-pin, screw-on-valve tyre deflator.<br />
** Such tools are usually the cheapest of them all.<br />
** They are super reliable as they have no moving parts.<br />
** As a matter of fact, they are usually a single-piece cast metal.<br />
*** It can't get more robust than that!<br />
* Such deflators simply push the tyre valve's pin in (as you would do with a stone) all the time while they are screwed onto the valve.<br />
** This lets the air out of the tyre at the same rate (speed) as you would with a stone, until you unscrew them.<br />
*** So they are harmless to the valve, as they do not fiddle with the valve core to increase deflation speed, as all of the "super fast" deflators do.<br />
* In summary, these deflators do exactly the same thing as you would while pressing the valve pin with a stone, but in a more elegant manner.<br />
** They have no deflation control mechanisms, so the user must take care to unscrew them at the right time (to avoid over-deflation).<br />
* There are three advantages of this type of deflators over the stone age method:<br />
*# No need to crouch next to the tyre all the time during deflation;<br />
*# Also avoids having to endure the burst of freezing cold air from the tyre valve over your fingers all the time during deflation;<br />
*# If you are well organized and follow the timings, one person can deflate two tyres almost in parallel;<br />
*#* Тhis doubles the overall deflation speed and brings it practically on par as with the expensive fast tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
The procedure to perform an (almost) parallel two-tyre deflation with these tools:<br />
# First, you need two such deflators;<br />
#* They usually come in a set of four, so you'll even have spares.<br />
# Second, you need to know beforehand (from past experience) how much time is needed to perform the desired amount of deflation on your tyres.<br />
#* That time is the parameter "D";<br />
# Now, screw the 1st deflator onto the 1st tyre.<br />
#* Immediately note the current time on your watch;<br />
#** That time is the parameter "T1";<br />
# While the 1st tyre is being deflated, screw the 2nd deflator onto the 2nd tyre.<br />
#* Immediately note the current time on your watch;<br />
#** That time is the parameter "T2";<br />
#* If you are not being slow like a Jimny full of obese people, the time "T1+D" has not passed in the meantime.<br />
#* Now wait for the time "T1+D", and then unscrew the 1st tyre deflator.<br />
#* If you are not being clumsy like Suzuki's documentation writing bureaucrats, the time "T2+D" has not passed in the meantime.<br />
#* Wait for the time "T2+D", and then unscrew the 2nd tyre deflator.<br />
# Congratulations, you have successfully deflated two tyres almost in parallel.<br />
#* Be free to feel proud of yourself while every bystander looks at you and thinks you are a car-freak.<br />
# Now repeat the same procedure with the remaining two tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Draper 22487 dumb tyre deflation tool - A01.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Draper 22487 tyre deflator, serving as an example of a useful and cost-effective tyre deflation tool]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
* An example of such a "dumb", die-cast, "push-pin", "screw-on-valve" tyre deflator is [https://www.drapertools.com/product/22487/Expert-TPMS-Valve-Deflator-Tool Draper 22487].<br />
* While it says "TPMS" in the product's marketing name, there is nothing specific to TPMSes about it.<br />
** It does not require the presence of a TPMS system in a vehicle and it has no modes of operation or deflation control or whatever.<br />
** It is plainly dumb as a rock.<br />
* The price on manufacturer's website is unrealistically high for some reason (currently around 28 GBP), while it sells for a few pounds on most 3rd party web stores.<br />
* Forum user Bosanek has had excellent experience with this particular tool.<br />
* However there are other such products of the same type in the market.<br />
** Find and buy one of your own choice.<br />
*** Since they are a dumb die-cast single-piece of metal, they all have the same quality and performance.<br />
**** You can't go wrong with any of them!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel theft ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Wheels on Jimnys, especially alloy wheels, are interesting targets for theft just like on any other vehicle model.<br />
* One example is when someone needs one good wheel to replace their own damaged wheel or tyre.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read more on how to protect against wheel theft in '''[[Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts]]''' wiki article.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel balancing ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
All Jimny generations, as all vehicles with solid front axle suspensions, are susceptible of developing a "death wobble" vibration at a certain speed range.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read more about death wobble in '''[[Death Wobble]]''' wiki article.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
Since wheel disbalance can easily cause death wobble, you need to take additional considerations in order to balance your wheels properly.<br />
<br />
You can educate yourself about wheel balancing issues at the dedicated chapter "Wheel balancing" of the above mentioned death wobble wiki page: '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel balancing|Wheel balancing]]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel damages and repairs ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* In the context of this chapter, the term "''wheel''" refers to the entire metallic wheel/rim on which a rubber road tyre is mounted (without the tyre).<br />
* It is not unusual for a wheel to become damaged.<br />
* Generally, the risk is higher when driving on unpaved roads or off road.<br />
** For example on rough gravel roads or on rocky terrain.<br />
* However, the damage can occur even on a promenade.<br />
** For example when hitting a street curb or a pothole on the road.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on wheel (mis)alignment ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Forces sustained by strong wheel impacts or excessive vibrations can also cause the suspension / steering system to lose proper alignment.<br />
** Misaligned front suspension and steering system will cause improper steering.<br />
*** This means inaccurate self centering of the steering wheel, vehicle not going straight when the steering wheel is straight, excessive tyre wear, etc.<br />
** Misaligned front suspension and steering system can also cause '''[[Death Wobble|Death wobble]]'''. <br />
* In case of wheel misalignment, wheel re-alignment has to be performed in a professional workshop.<br />
** Read the chapter '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel alignment|Wheel alignment]]''' in the Death Wobble wiki article for some details about the process.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Types of wheel damages and repairs ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Scratches ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Wheels can get scratched, causing steel wheel to rust and alloy ones to lose appeal.<br />
** However, scratches do not present structural damage, so they are not given much attention in this article.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Bents ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The mildest (and most often) type of structural wheel damage is a '''b'''ent.<br />
* Bents cause the wheels to become warped.<br />
** Warped wheels cause rotational disbalance.<br />
*** Rotational wheel+tyre assembly disbalance is one of the most common causes of the '''[[Death Wobble]]''' phenomenon.<br />
* It is not always possible to detect a warped wheel, even to the trained eyes.<br />
** Professional measurement machinery is sometimes necessary.<br />
* In many cases of warped wheels, wheel+tyre assembly balancing measures can not compensate for the bent(s).<br />
** The distortions have to be remedied first.<br />
* Most ordinary wheel balancing machines can't even detect the warps.<br />
** That is because most of them measure the disbalance in only one plane of motion (longitudinal), and not the transverse "jerking" forces.<br />
** Such machines would complete the balancing process on a warped wheel just fine, and everything would appear to be perfectly balanced (according to the measurements of those machines).<br />
*** In reality, the wheel still (sometimes invisibly) wobbles from side to side while rotating.<br />
** There are specialized workshops and machines which can detect and correct the wheel bents, and therefore straighten the wheels (both the steel and alloy ones).<br />
* Only after those wheel straightening measures are applied, it makes sense to perform wheel+tyre assembly balancing.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Dents ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The medium type of structural wheel damage is a '''d'''ent.<br />
* Dents are usually obviously visible (if you care to look).<br />
* You should occasionally check your wheels for dents, scratches and mud/grit deposits from the inner side.<br />
** That is the side which is facing the brake disc / brake drum when the wheel is mounted.<br />
* A significant dent on a rim will usually be instantly noticeable.<br />
** Reason: it will allow the air to leak out from the tyre faster than you can fart when you least expect to.<br />
* Dents have a higher tendency to appear on steel wheels than on alloy wheels.<br />
** Dents on steel wheels are typically quite easy to repair.<br />
** Dents on alloy wheels are typically relatively difficult to repair (but more or less possible for sufficiently qualified and equipped servicemen).<br />
* After a wheel dent is repaired, the wheel should definitely be checked for distortions throughout (see the preceding chapter).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cracks ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The most extreme type of structural damage is a cracked or shattered wheel.<br />
** Steel wheels rarely, if ever, crack or shatter - they usually crunch.<br />
** Alloy wheels are more susceptible to cracking or shattering.<br />
*** The required force to cause an alloy wheel to crack or shatter is usually quite extreme (if good quality wheels are used).<br />
* Some specialized workshops can even mend (patch up) cracked and/or shattered wheels, even in most extreme cases.<br />
** An extreme case is when a wheel is brought to them as a collection of dozen pieces in a bag, and returned like it once used to be - at least visually.<br />
* The answer to the question "whether a mended cracked or shattered wheel will structurally be able to perform its intended duty (and be without any uncorrectable distortions)" is for you to ''discover''.<br />
** In this situation, you might be better off to buy a Land Rover ''Discovery'' (but without cracked wheels).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Additional considerations ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Importance of tyre profile ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The risk for any of these wheel damage types generally increases with lower profile tyres, and vice versa (less risk with higher profile tyres).<br />
*# Reason 1: With lower profile tyres, wheels are closer to the ground, and smaller rocks can reach them.<br />
*# Reason 2: With lower profile tyres, there is much less "cushioning" (damping) capacity in tyre's sidewalls when they hit a pothole, curb or a rock, leaving it on the rigid wheel to handle most of the shock.<br />
* Therefore, for general mixed terrain or off road use, '''higher profile''' tyres ("taller" tyres) are always more recommended over lower profile ones.<br />
** Higher profile tyres provide other additional benefits for all terrain use.<br />
*** Read the chapter [[#Tyre profiles|"Tyre profiles"]] for more information.<br />
* Now you start to get the idea why the 21st century breed of city-terrain steroid-pumped 4WD vehicles with factory-styled oversized wheels and low profile tyres are utterly absurd in the basic concept.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Importance of tyre air pressure ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Beware that the risk of wheel damage increases when the tyre air pressure is too high or too low.<br />
* When the tyre air pressure is too high, the tyre will be too stiff, having the following consequences:<br />
*# It will translate most (if not all) of the vibrations and shock loads to the wheel (and further on to suspension and steering components, the rest of the vehicle, up to your kidneys and teeth).<br />
*# It will not deform gently around a rough or sharp object (rough gravel, rocks, etc.) instead "attacking" it stiffly head on.<br />
*#* In such a clash, the tyre usually loses by having a piece of its tread torn off.<br />
* "Too high" tyre air pressure generally means higher than factory-recommended on-road tyre pressures.<br />
** The only reason to ever use too high tyre air pressures is if you want to cure your stone kidney disease. <br />
<br />
<br />
* When the tyre air pressure is too low, there is not enough air quantity inside to handle/cushion the '''sudden''' shock loads.<br />
** This leaves the wheel as the "first point of impact".<br />
* The "suddeness" of the shock load directly depends on the velocity of the vehicle.<br />
** Therefore, driving with partially deflated tyres is not a problem, as long as vehicle's speed is correspondingly reduced according to the terrain conditions.<br />
*** The lower the pressure, the slower the speed!<br />
* Read the chapter [[#Tyre pressures|"Tyre pressures"]] for more information on tyre air pressures.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre damages and repairs ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres are the most vulnerable part of a vehicle, and they definitely endure the most harshness when the vehicle is driven in all-terrain conditions.<br />
* To appreciate the role and life of your tyres, imagine or try running bare-footed on the same terrain where you drive on.<br />
* Tyres can sustain several types of damage, and not every type is instantly noticeable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Educate yourself more about tyre punctures and repairs through [https://rma.org/sites/default/files/prp_wallchart1111_0.pdf '''this article'''] from USA's Rubber Manufacturer Association and through [https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-repair '''this article and video'''] from the international Tire Industry Association.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Types of tyre damages and repairs ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Tread puncture ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* This is the most well known and classic tyre damage.<br />
* Tread surface, in the context of tread puncture repair, is considered to be the central 3/4s of the side of the tyre which regularly contacts the ground.<br />
** The remaining outer sections of the ground contact area are called "shoulder area".<br />
* For the predominant radial tyres, general tyre industry convention is that this shoulder area falls in the category of "tyre sidewall" considering puncture repair options (see below).<br />
* A tread puncture can happen either as a (more or less) round pierce (for example a nail), or as a cut (for example a large piece of glass).<br />
* Most tread punctures (if not overly large) can be successfully and permanently repaired by professionals in tyre repair workshops.<br />
<br />
<br />
* For a tread puncture repair to be proper and permanent, the tyre '''must''' be demounted from the wheel first, and the repair performed from the '''inside''' of the tyre.<br />
* The best type of a tread puncture repair is when two methods are combined - a plug (stem) and a patch.<br />
** Both of those repair methods should be performed from the inside of the tyre.<br />
* Applying just a plug or just a patch is not proper, but many "professional" tyre servicemen are lazy and just do one of the two.<br />
** Persuade them to use both (first plug, then patch)!<br />
*** If talking does not work, then money usually does.<br />
* A plug repair is when the punctured hole or cut is drilled through to clean it, and then a rubber strip (+ a glue cure) is inserted into the hole.<br />
* A patch repair is when a piece of rubber is glued onto the surface, and then "cooked" for a while to vulcanize (fuse) with the surface on which it is applied.<br />
<br />
<br />
* "Plug type" DIY tyre repair kits exist from infinite number of manufacturers, and they cost only a few coins.<br />
** They are handy to carry in the trunk, as they can be used for DIY "on the field" repair of tyre tread punctures.<br />
* However, using '''just''' a plug repair from the '''outside''' of the tyre (without demounting it from the wheel first) should be done only in an emergency when no other options are available.<br />
** It should be considered as a temporary measure until you get a first proper opportunity to have the tyre demounted, the old (temporary) plug drilled out, and the tyre properly repaired as described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using (recently) much advertized aerosol/liquid/gel tyre filler solutions is '''highly discouraged'''!<br />
* Those solutions are typically held in pressurized cans, which you connect to the tyre inflation valve and then spray the aerosol/liquid/gel inside the tyre.<br />
** The solution then spreads through the tyre and (in theory) plugs the puncture while you are pumping the tyre up.<br />
* Even if this succeeds, it is strictly a temporary measure just to get you out of the situation.<br />
* In most cases, tyres which have been treated with these liquid fillers can not be properly repaired afterwards.<br />
** Reason: The liquid has hardened all throughout the inside of the tyre and made a complete mess, especially regarding balancing.<br />
*** Cleaning all the hardened aerosol/liquid/gel out requires '''a lot''' of labor effort and cost.<br />
**** The cost of cleaning is usually more than half the value of a new tyre.<br />
* This renders your "temporarily repaired" tyre practically '''permanently ruined'''.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall puncture ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Sidewall puncture is the nastiest type of tyre damage.<br />
** Unfortunately, the risk of sidewall punctures is generally the highest when performing all terrain driving.<br />
* A sidewall puncture can happen either as a more or less round pierce (for example a nail), but much more often as a cut (for example a piece of a tree branch sticking out from the ground).<br />
* For the predominant radial tyres, general tyre industry convention is that '''any''' damage in the sidewall area '''can not''' be successfully repaired.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=640 heights=360 class=center caption="Examples of tyre sidewall punctures"><br />
Tyre sidewall damage - A01.jpg|Multiple damages in one picture<br />
Tyre sidewall damage - B01.jpg|A relatively small but terminal damage<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* However, there are tyre repair workshops which can repair sidewall damage on radial tyres, even in extreme damage cases.<br />
** Those are typically the same workshops which produce remoulded (retreaded) tyres, since the process of repairing a tyre sidewall is in some aspects similar to retreading a tyre.<br />
* The method of repairing tyre "shoulders" and sidewalls is called "section repair".<br />
** In short, the section repair consists of cutting out the damaged area, filling it with special raw rubber, then applying special (reinforced) patches from the inside, together with some special glues, and cooking (vulcanizing) all that with the sidewall for extended period of time, in a very similar process as when retreading a tyre.<br />
** The reinforced patches contain nets of some strong material (kevlar, titanium, etc. or hairs from Arabian horse tails) and require special raw rubber made from frog balls or from salmon sperm, with specially tailored glue made from bird milk or whatever to properly fuse with the tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Sidewall section repairs are typically applied to heavy duty tyres which are used on tractors, industrial machines and heavy-duty trucks which work in forestry, construction sites, excavation sites etc.<br />
* Sidewall section repairs have proven to be successful on much smaller and lighter tyres used on all-terrain vehicles.<br />
** However, it is (in most cases) highly discouraged to use such tyres on the road - restrict to using them '''off road only'''!<br />
** If you have to venture out on the road, keep the speed '''under''' cca '''40-50 km/h''' ('''25-30 mph''')!<br />
<br />
<br />
* General observation of tyre repair workshops (which perform these kinds of repairs) is that AT class and MT class all terrain tyres are much better suited to performing this kind of sidewall puncture repair than ordinary limousine road tyres.<br />
** The reason is that AT class and especially MT class tyres have certain degree of robustness and reinforcements as a part of their overall construction (aiding the infusion of the patch), while ordinary limousine road tyres have barely anything to "cling on to".<br />
<br />
<br />
* If a tyre sidewall repair fails later on, it usually fails suddenly (instantly) and catastrophically.<br />
** You '''do not''' want that to happen while your velocity is high!<br />
* If a tyre sidewall repair fails later on in a tricky off roading situation (undulated terrain, steep or sloped terrain, rocks, mud, shit, etc.) raising the vehicle to replace the wheel might turn into a grand project on itself.<br />
** "High lift" jacks are typically used to raise the vehicle in these difficult conditions, but Jimny 3 '''des not''' have suitable lifting points below the factory front and rear bumpers, and barely suitable ones on the sides!<br />
*** Suitability of Jimny 1, 2 and 4 for lifting with a high lift jack is unknown - add info here if you know something!<br />
<br />
<br />
Educate yourself more about tyre section repairs through [http://www.techtirerepairs.com/content/documents/RM-9---Radial-Truck-Sidewall-Repair-w-Mult-Cable-Damage-1.pdf this] and [http://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311921/knowing-what-not-to-repair this] article.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall bulge ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A bulge usually occurs on a tyre's sidewall.<br />
* The cause of a bulge can either be:<br />
** A rather heavy sudden shock load (for example hitting a street curb or a big pothole at speed);<br />
** A deficiency in the tyre itself (very hard to prove);<br />
* A bulge on a tyre means that its internal structure (cords, plies, etc.) has disintegrated in that section of the tyre.<br />
* Bulges are relatively hard to spot.<br />
** Reason: they do not leak air and you usually have to take a good look at the tyre to notice them, especially if the bulge is on the side of the tyre which faces vehicle's underbody.<br />
* Bulges are one of the main reasons why you should occasionally visually inspect all your tyres from both sides.<br />
* A bulge, if it's sufficiently large, can disturb wheel's balance.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bulges are much more dangerous than they appear!<br />
** They usually don't affect the operation of the tyre, and no air leaks through them.<br />
*** Because of this, even when they get noticed, they are usually not taken that seriously;<br />
**** ''"The tyre still serves just fine, doesn't it?"'';<br />
* However, when a bulge finally fails, it usually bursts suddenly and catastrophically!<br />
** You do not want that to happen to you when the vehicle's velocity is high!<br />
* Bulges usually fail at high speeds or at a next rough impact (street curbs, big potholes, hard gravel, etc.).<br />
** When a bulge fails on a front tyre at high speed, you'll suddenly get into a wrestling match with your steering wheel.<br />
** When a bulge fails on a rear tyre at high speed, you'll most probably get a spectacular theatrical movie-style rollover, with you in the best seat to experience it in full HD vision with surround 3D sound.<br />
<br />
<br />
* If the size of the bulge is quite small (approximately like a button on a shirt or a small coin), it can usually be treated so it does not expand and get worse from then on.<br />
** Such a tyre should be usable, but vehicle's speed should be limited to approximately '''80 km/h''' ('''45 mph''') just to be safe!<br />
* However, if the bulge is relatively large (like half of a finger or larger), it's a "FUBAR" case ("f**** up beyond repair").<br />
** Such a tyre '''should''' be discarded, or vehicle's speed kept under '''40-50 km/h''' ('''25-30 mph'''), while being prepared for the burst at any time!<br />
* It is best to consult a well reputed tyre repair specialist to assess your own case.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall indentation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A tyre might have a "vertical" indentation in a its sidewall (vertical means that the indentation runs orthogonally across the sidewall, from the bead to the tread of the tyre).<br />
* If the indentation is present from when the tyre was new (ever since it was mounted on the wheel and inflated for the first time), then it is typically a "feature".<br />
** It is a place where the internal plies and the cords of the sidewall overlap.<br />
** In that case, there is nothing to worry about, as such an indentation is not a weak spot in tyre's construction.<br />
* However, if you notice an indentation in the sidewall of your tyre in mid-use, and you are not certain if it was there since the tyre was new, you should have the tyre inspected by a reputable tyre repair specialist, just to be safe.<br />
<br />
{{note|Reference for the explanation of the nature of indentations in tyre's sidewall is [http://www.continental-tyres.co.za/car/technology/tyre-knowledge/lex-1-4 this article on Continental's web site].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cuts ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Chips ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disintegration ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cracking ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Tyre_selection_and_usage_-_best_practices&diff=9998
Tyre selection and usage - best practices
2023-02-09T12:01:44Z
<p>Bosanek: Corrected the factory wheel specification parameters for Jimny 3</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* One of the most common questions about improving vehicle's all-terrain performance and endurance is "what is the most effective modification to apply to my vehicle?".<br />
** Well, using proper tyres, and using them properly, is arguably the most effective vehicle "mod" for all-terrain use!<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|"Most effective" can generally mean in the context of cost, performance, simplicity or endurance.<br>Using '''proper''' tyres '''properly''' can be the most effective "mod" in all of those ways!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overview of the topics covered by this document ===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Choosing a proper tyre type for the desired usage;<br />
# Choosing a tyre size (with various factors);<br />
# List of various tyre models with remarks;<br />
# Best practices on tyre usage (wheel rotation, wheel balancing, air pressures, rim and tyre repairs);<br />
# Use of tyre chains for snow and mud conditions;<br />
# Special situations and combinations;<br />
<br />
<br />
== General remarks ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, some basic remarks about using tyres on four wheel drive vehicles. Each remark is explained in detail in various chapters of this article.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Constraints on tyre combinations ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Inherent restriction of most four wheel drive transmission systems (all Jimny's included) is that the vehicle has to use all four tyres of the same profile (size).<br />
** Furthermore, all four tyres should be the same model and have a very similar tread depth.<br />
*** Reason: Even small differences between rotational friction and wheel circumference among wheels can damage the 4WD transmission in the long term.<br />
* These restrictions limit the combinations when choosing (buying) tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== The spare (5th) tyre ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The stated restrictions also apply to the spare (5th) tyre, which must not be overlooked!<br />
** The spare wheel and tyre should be actively used in a 5-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
* Topic of spare tyre utilization has its own dedicated sub-chapter: [[#Spare wheel and tyre usage|Spare wheel and tyre usage]].<br />
* People who venture into serious expeditions and overland travels usually use '''six''' identical wheels and tyres in a six-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre (air) pressures ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Frequent checking (and adjusting) of tyre air pressures is much more important for all-terrain use than for ordinary on-road use.<br />
** Reason: tyre pressures significantly affect all-terrain traction as well as the risk of tyre damage.<br />
*** Tyres get hotter with low pressures, for example.<br />
* The topic of tyre air pressures has its own dedicated sub-chapter: [[#Tyre air pressures|Tyre air pressures]].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Wheel (dis)balancing ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Wheel (dis)balancing is a much more prominent issue for all-terrain use.<br />
** This is especially important for Jimnys, as all Jimny generations are notorious for developing a [[Death Wobble|"death wobble"]] issue.<br />
*** It is a genetic trait derived from their short wheelbase and solid (rigid) front axle suspension design.<br />
* See the sub-chapter [[#Wheel balancing|"Wheel balancing"]] for more details.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Wheel (mis)alignment ===<br />
<br />
* If wheels are not properly aligned, the usual consequence is excessive and uneven tyre wear.<br />
** Another significant consequence is improper steering.<br />
* Read the chapter '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel alignment|Wheel alignment]]''' in the Death Wobble wiki article for some details about the process of properly aligning the wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre profiles ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain use, '''higher profile''' tyres are always preferred against '''lower profile tyres'''.<br />
** Reasons:<br />
**# Higher profile tyres cushion the ride better on all-terrain both for the vehicle and for the passengers,<br />
**# They decrease the chance of rim damage, <br />
**# They allow better air pressure management.<br />
* The only disadvantage of "tall" tyres is worse performance when the vehicle corners fast in a bend.<br />
** However, it is insensible anyway to do so in a high, narrow, wobbly, jumpy, twitchy vehicle.<br />
* Therefore, putting oversized rims with thin tyres on a 4WD vehicle is like putting ballet shoes on a village farmer.<br />
<br />
<br />
* A "higher profile" means a "taller" tyre (taller tyre sidewall).<br />
* The '''second''' number in tyre's sizing specification determines its "tallness" as a percentage of its width.<br />
** An example: for a <font face="courier">205 / '''70''' / R15</font> tyre, the second number says that its sidewall height is <font face="courier">205 mm * '''0,7''' = 143,5 mm</font>.<br />
* Sometimes a narrower tyre with a higher second number is actually taller than a wider tyre with a lower second number!<br />
** An example: <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> is taller than <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> (<font face="courier">156 mm</font> sidewall height vs <font face="courier">143,5 mm</font> sidewall height).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre load index and velocity index ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* These two tyre specifications are often overlooked, as the sizing specification is getting all the attention.<br />
* Tyre load carrying capacity and maximum vehicle velocity specifications are always written just after the sizing specification.<br />
** For example: <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''96S'''</font>.<br />
*** '''96''' is the load carrying capacity index, while '''S''' is the maximum velocity index.<br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Tyre load capacity index classification<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
|-<br />
| 70<br />
| 335<br />
| 89<br />
| 580<br />
| 108<br />
| 1000<br />
|-<br />
| 71<br />
| 345<br />
| 90<br />
| 600<br />
| 109<br />
| 1030<br />
|-<br />
| 72<br />
| 355<br />
| 91<br />
| 615<br />
| 110<br />
| 1060<br />
|-<br />
| 73<br />
| 365<br />
| 92<br />
| 630<br />
| 111<br />
| 1090<br />
|-<br />
| 74<br />
| 375<br />
| 93<br />
| 650<br />
| 112<br />
| 1120<br />
|-<br />
| 75<br />
| 387<br />
| 94<br />
| 670<br />
| 113<br />
| 1150<br />
|-<br />
| 76<br />
| 400<br />
| 95<br />
| 690<br />
| 114<br />
| 1180<br />
|-<br />
| 77<br />
| 412<br />
| 96<br />
| 710<br />
| 115<br />
| 1215<br />
|-<br />
| 78<br />
| 425<br />
| 97<br />
| 730<br />
| 116<br />
| 1250<br />
|-<br />
| 79<br />
| 437<br />
| 98<br />
| 750<br />
| 117<br />
| 1285<br />
|-<br />
| 80<br />
| 450<br />
| 99<br />
| 775<br />
| 118<br />
| 1320<br />
|-<br />
| 81<br />
| 462<br />
| 100<br />
| 800<br />
| 119<br />
| 1360<br />
|-<br />
| 82<br />
| 475<br />
| 101<br />
| 825<br />
| 120<br />
| 1400<br />
|-<br />
| 83<br />
| 487<br />
| 102<br />
| 850<br />
| 121<br />
| 1450<br />
|-<br />
| 84<br />
| 500<br />
| 103<br />
| 875<br />
| 122<br />
| 1500<br />
|-<br />
| 85<br />
| 515<br />
| 104<br />
| 900<br />
| 123<br />
| 1550<br />
|-<br />
| 86<br />
| 530<br />
| 105<br />
| 925<br />
| 124<br />
| 1600<br />
|-<br />
| 87<br />
| 545<br />
| 106<br />
| 950<br />
| 125<br />
| 1650<br />
|-<br />
| 88<br />
| 560<br />
| 107<br />
| 975<br />
| 126<br />
| 1700<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Tyre velocity index classification<br />
! Velocity<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>velocity<br>[km/h]<br />
|-<br />
| N<br />
| 120<br />
|-<br />
| M<br />
| 130<br />
|-<br />
| N<br />
| 140<br />
|-<br />
| P<br />
| 150<br />
|-<br />
| Q<br />
| 160<br />
|-<br />
| R<br />
| 170<br />
|-<br />
| S<br />
| 180<br />
|-<br />
| T<br />
| 190<br />
|-<br />
| U<br />
| 200<br />
|-<br />
| H<br />
| 210<br />
|-<br />
| V<br />
| 240<br />
|-<br />
| W<br />
| 270<br />
|-<br />
| Y<br />
| 300<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
* Maximum tyre velocity is not really important for most 4WD vehicle applications, as such vehicles are rarely driven faster than 130 km/h, and most tyres (''except many MT tyres and retreaded tyres!'') usually sustain significantly higher velocities.<br />
** This means that most tyres on the market will have sufficient velocity rating for typical use on a 4WD vehicle.<br />
*** However, if you intend to drive your vehicle on motorway speeds, you should check the velocity rating on AT tyres and especially on MT tyres and retreaded tyres that you are considering to purchase (or already got on the vehicle). <br />
<br />
<br />
* Maximum tyre load rating deserves additional consideration, because using a tyre with significantly higher load rating than factory specified for a vehicle can introduce several negative side effects, while still being perfectly legal and technically acceptable.<br />
* Typical examples of tyres with significantly higher load bearing capacity than "ordinary" tyres of the same size are many '''C''' (Cargo / Commercial), '''LT''' (Light Truck), '''XL''' (eXtra Load) and '''RF''' (ReinForced) tyres.<br />
** Read the corresponding chapter on those tyre types further down below for more info about consequences of using tyres with significantly higher load bearing capacity than specified by the vehicle manufacturer.<br />
* Note: Maximum load rating of a tyre means just that - load above which it would burst, disintegrate and get completely destroyed due to excessive force which it has to handle. In everyday use, a tyre should never bear more than 50-70% of that load.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Choosing a proper tyre type for the desired usage ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Tyre designs for passenger and all terrain / light truck vehicles can be (among other ways) designed and built for:<br />
* Regular "on road" use (the vast majority of tyre models);<br />
* All-terrain use (to a certain extent);<br />
<br />
<br />
* The difference between those two design approaches is not just in the tread pattern (traction capability).<br />
* Another equally important aspect is the robustness of tyre's body (resistance to various types of trauma, which '''regularly''' occurs off the asphalt).<br />
** This is generally given dedicated design attention for all-terrain tyres (based on tyre's exploitation expectancy).<br />
** For ordinary road tyres, robustness is barely considered on itself.<br />
* Also, tyre's adaptability to different weather conditions is also sometimes given more design thought when designing all-terrain tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is no official standard to differentiate various kinds of all-terrain tyre designs.<br />
<br />
There are three "industry categories" of all terrain tyre designs, based on loose practical usage classifications (from "worse" to "best"):<br />
# HT - "Highway Terrain"<br />
# AT - "All Terrain"<br />
# MT - "Mud Terrain"<br />
<br />
<br />
Tyre manufacturers usually use this classification to position their all-terrain tyre models in their marketing catalogue.<br />
<br />
* HT tyres generally have the best on-road performance and worst off-road performance of all three categories.<br />
* MT tyres generally have the opposite performance characteristics.<br />
* AT tyres are generally in the middle - being good but not great for both.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since these are loose classifications, there are "weaker" and "stronger" tyre models in each category.<br />
** Therefore, each tyre model should be precisely evaluated on its own.<br />
*** For example, Dunlop Grandtrek AT20 could be classified either as a "mild AT tyre", or as an "extreme HT tyre" :).<br />
*** Another example is Uniroyal Laredo HD/T, which could be classified either as a "mild MT tyre" or as an "extreme AT tyre".<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some tyre models also exist in one or more of the following "heavy load" editions:<br />
** C (Commercial / Cargo);<br />
** LT (Light Truck);<br />
** XL ("eXtra Load);<br />
** RF (ReinForced);<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are '''not''' suitable for vehicles which are not heavily loaded on a regular basis.<br />
* Read more about tyres for heavy loads in the corresponding subchapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
* A special case are retreaded (remoulded, "protect") tyres.<br />
** Read more about them in the corresponding subchapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== HT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Highway terrain tyres are generally meant to be used predominantly on road, with only slight & light off road excursions (dirt roads, possibly rougher gravel at most, etc.).<br />
* The overall tread design and depth of HT tyres is generally quite similar to ordinary road tyres.<br />
** That means that HT tyres generally have equally proficient on-road performance and endurance even for sharp or very fast driving (and similar fuel economy).<br />
** That also means that HT tyres exhibit almost equally bad all-terrain performance as ordinary road tyres.<br />
* However, having the "terrain" part in their name, HT tyres should be slightly more robust than ordinary road tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For (almost) always on-road driven all terrain vehicles, HT tyres can be an optimal choice if the vehicles are driven sharply or at high speeds.<br />
* HT-class tyres are always recommended over ordinary on-road tyres for two reasons:<br />
*# They should be more robust;<br />
*# They at least formally "suit" the all-terrain image of the host vehicle;<br />
* However, AT tyres are definitely a better choice if proper all terrain driving is even occasionally performed, and/or if the vehicle is not driven fast or sharply.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== AT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All terrain tyres are generally meant to be used in mixed on-road and all terrain conditions (anywhere between 30% and 70% of time for either).<br />
* AT tyres usually have significantly rougher (and a bit deeper) tread design compared to HT and ordinary road tyres.<br />
* AT tyres are a performance compromise which is usually hard to achieve.<br />
* AT tyres are generally good on-road except for sharp or very fast driving, and generally good off-road except for boggy and/or harsh conditions (deep mud, deep snow, sharp rocks, river crossings ...).<br />
* AT tyres are usually significantly more robust than ordinary road tyres.<br />
* AT tyres should slightly impact fuel economy.<br />
* AT tyres can be a challenge to balance properly.<br />
* Many AT tyres are "all season", which further adds to their "all terrain" value.<br />
** For example, mountaineers can encounter ice and snow even as late as in June and as early as in September.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain vehicles which are used for everything - commuting, intercity travel, and various all terrain conditions, AT tyres are the solution.<br />
* AT-class tyres should not present a jeopardy on the road, and they should be a trusted companion off the road, in the sense of traction and in the sense of reliability.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== MT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Mud terrain tyres (also called "Maximum Traction") are generally meant to be used predominantly off road, with only slight easy-going on-road excursions.<br />
* MT tyres usually have very deep and striking ("tractor looking") tread and sidewall appearance, and very high robustness capability through various reinforcements.<br />
* MT tyres excel in boggy and/or harsh conditions (deep mud, deep snow, sharp rocks, tree roots, river crossings, etc.) and offer the best protection against punctures, cuts and chipping.<br />
* However, MT tyres are generally noisy on the road, wear faster and present a real jeopardy if not driven slowly and carefully on a wet road and especially on packed snow or ice.<br />
* Also, MT tyres usually significantly affect fuel economy.<br />
* Due to their coarse construction, MT tyres can be very hard or impossible to balance properly.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain vehicles which rarely touch the asphalt and are primarily used on rough terrain, MT tyres should be the weapon of choice.<br />
* However, MT-class tyres can be a jeopardy on regular road surfaces and they wear out faster and louder on road.<br />
* Also, if not balanced entirely, MT-class tyres will cause issues on road.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyres for heavy loads (C, LT, XL, RF, etc.) ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Fast info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Quick advice for lazy readers:<br />
* Avoid using tyres for heavy loads on a Jimny!<br />
** Typical designations: C - "commercial" / "cargo", LT - "light truck", XL - "extra load", RF - "reinforced".<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Detailed info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some tyre models also exist in a "C" ("commercial" / "cargo"), an LT ("light truck"), an XL ("extra load") and/or in an RF ("reinforced") edition (or a specific tyre model is exclusively built as such).<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are usually designed to bear significantly heavier loads for their size compared to "normal load" tyres of the same size.<br />
** The tread pattern of a C, LT, XL or RF tyre edition is usually identical or very similar to a "normal" tyre edition of the same tyre model.<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are meant to be used on vans, pick-up trucks and other vehicles which typically transport quite heavy loads and/or tow heavy trailers, as well as on those trailers.<br />
* Don't get mislead by the "light" attribute in the "LT" designation.<br />
** The "light" attribute stands in reference to '''heavy''' trucks.<br />
*** A vehicle with loaded weight of several tonnes is indeed ''light'' in comparison with a heavy truck which has a loaded weight of several dozen tonnes!<br />
* Beware that sometimes a certain tyre model might be offered in a "heavy load" edition as well, without having any of those C, LT, XL, RF or other special markers.<br />
** The only certain way to tell is to always check the load index which is printed on tyre's sidewall.<br />
*** Read the chapter on tyre load and velocity index ratings for details.<br />
<br />
<br />
* C tyres can usually be distinguished by having a "C" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''C'''</font><br />
* LT tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "LT" prefix before the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">'''LT''' 205 / 70 / R15</font><br />
* XL tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "XL" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''XL'''</font><br />
* RF tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "RF" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''RF'''</font><br />
* Another way to identify a C, LT, XL and RF tyres is to compare their load rating with typical load ratings of other tyre models of the same size.<br />
** If its load rating is more than a couple rating numbers higher than most other tyre models in the same size, than it's probably a C, LT, XL or RF tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
Typical difference in tyre's load rating for Jimny 3's stock size of <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> is:<br />
# A "normal load" tyre usually has <font face="Courier">"96"-"97"</font> (<font face="Courier">730-750 kg</font>) load rating;<br />
# C, LT, XL and RF tyres usually has <font face="Courier">"105"-"107"</font> (<font face="Courier">930-980 kg</font>) load rating;<br />
#* This is a quite significant '''30%''' increase in load bearing capability.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Advantages of tyres for heavy loads ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For regularly heavily loaded vehicles which are designed to bear that load, "heavy load" tyres are the tool of choice.<br />
* They have significantly stronger sidewalls and harder tread material to withstand heavy forces when rolling under heavy load.<br />
** Therefore, they should theoretically be able to withstand more abuse off road than ordinary on-road limousine tyres.<br />
** Due to harder tread material, they usually wear a lot slower when used on a very light vehicle which never loads them close to their designed load.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disadvantages of tyres for heavy loads ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Significantly more expensive than "normal load" tyres.<br />
** ''Well, you are probably making some money transporting all that heavy load, so a tyre manufacturer should also get a cut of the profit!''<br />
* If a vehicle is not heavily loaded, these tyres usually provide a much stiffer and harsher ride.<br />
** Reason is that their sidewalls are "too strong" and they almost don't flex at all when on light load, thus providing no cushioning for vehicle's suspension.<br />
** Harsher ride increases the wear of vehicle's suspension and other vibration-prone elements (as all of those have to "soak" most of the vibrations instead of the tyres).<br />
** A harsher ride also increases the wear of your teeth fillings.<br />
* Also, the theoretical advantage of better robustness off road of a "heavy load" tyre compared to an ordinary limousine tyre is quickly lost when an on-road "heavy load" tyre is compared with a "normal load" HT tyre or especially a "normal load" AT tyre.<br />
** Reason: many HT and especially AT tyres have sidewall puncture robustness built-in as a design, without making the sidewall too stiff.<br />
** Also, the compound (material) of the tread of HT and especially AT tyres is built to better withstand wear of harsh terrain (chips, cuts, bruises, etc.).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations are very light vehicles, especially in regards to the size of the tyres which they use.<br />
** The best proof of their relative lightness compared to the relatively large tyres which they use is the fact that factory on-road tyre pressures for Jimnys 3 are '''only''' about 1,7 bar per tyre.<br />
*** Additional explanation: The lighter the load on a tyre, the less air pressure inside is needed to bear that load properly.<br />
* Also, Jimny 3's load carrying capacity is only around 300 kg and Jimny 4's load carrying capacity is '''XXX''' kg.<br />
** This means that with four adult passengers and their baggage, the vehicle is already near the limit of its load carrying capacity.<br />
* Therefore, using "heavy load" tyres on a Jimny is (to say the least) ''superfluous'' and to say the most, ''idiotic'' (depending on tyre model).<br />
** The only good reason to use "heavy load" tyres on a Jimny is try to break some large kidney stones or gale bladder stones.<br />
** "Heavy load" tyres (depending on a model) will usually be so stiff on a Jimny that even significant (30-40%) pressure reduction to 1,1-1,2 bar will not provide significant improvement in vibration damping.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Forum user Bosanek has experienced all this while using C tyres in practice on a friend's Jimny 3.<br />
** Those tyres had load rating of 107 compared to Jimny's stock rating of 96 - more than 35% increase!<br />
** The friend bought C tyres by mistakenly believing that "more load bearing capacity" means better durability and robustness off road.<br />
** What he got in practice is super stiff ride, much more wear of suspension components and even squeaky interior body panels after some time.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Retreaded (remoulded, "protect") tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Fast info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Quick advice for lazy readers:<br />
* Do '''not''' use retreaded tyres on any vehicle, except if it's an off-roading toy!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Detailed info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A retreaded tyre is a recycled / revived tyre.<br />
** It is a previously used and worn out tyre, which had its worn tread surface grinded off, and a new tread (which can have completely different pattern from the old one) glued on.<br />
** The material of the new tread is specific to the retreading "factory".<br />
* Therefore, retreaded tyres are essentially "tyre zombies".<br />
** That means they are old, worn tyre carcasses which have been restitched and brought back to life like Frankenstein.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes on tread patterns:<br />
* Retreaded tyres are produced in all kinds of editions and flavors, with their treads typically mimicking a well known brand name tread pattern.<br />
** They can mimic any tread pattern, either of slick and smooth road tyres, summer or winter tread designs, as well as heavy-duty AT, MT or even more extreme agricultural and industrial tread patterns.<br />
* They can also be made with a custom tread design of any appearance that you can imagine.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Advantages of retreaded tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* They are quite cheap (usually cheaper than any brand name tyre).<br />
* They are ecological (recycled material).<br />
* There is a wide and colorful choice of tread patterns, especially the extreme traction ones. <br />
<br />
<br />
But there is a cost to pay. Read on.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disadvantages of retreaded tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bear in mind - if a tread appears the same like from a brand name tyre model, it does not mean that the materials and compositions of the tread are the same (affecting grip, wear rate, etc.).<br />
* Also, you hardly ever know which actual tyres were used for resurrection.<br />
** For all-terrain duty, the strength and robustness of tyre's sidewalls are equally important as the tread pattern.<br />
* There are also horror stories of retreaded tyres failing catastrophically during high speed driving.<br />
** The tread layer actually glues off from the tyre carcass.<br />
*** The consequences don't look pretty from any angle of view.<br />
* In some countries, an aggressive tread remoulded tyre could render an environmental fine in some back-country roads. <br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|<br>Beware that all Jimny generations (as most vehicles with solid front axles) are highly susceptible to developing a [[Death Wobble|"death wobble"]] issue produced by disbalance or play in their front suspension.<br>Improper wheel balance is highly likely to trigger it.<br>Retreaded tyres (even those with ordinary on-road treads) are notorious for being hard or impossible to balance.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-1RXKtrBykdw7V9X1WX3jLXpSdygKb8ji3y1WJZhR0g/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which summarises all arguments FOR and AGAINST using retreaded tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre tread symmetry and directionality ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The previous chapter dealt with tyre construction and tread pattern, primarily regarding robustness and heavy-duty performance.<br />
* This chapter deals with tyre tread layout, which is a common parameter of any tyre construction.<br />
* The issue of tread layouts is important for all-terrain use.<br />
** Reason: some layouts severely restrict tyre's usage flexibility for all-terrain use.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The tread design of each tyre has two important pattern layouts:'''<br />
* Symmetricity - it can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical;<br />
* Directionality - it can be either "uni-directional" (also called just "directional") or "bi-directional" (also called "non-directional");<br />
<br />
<br />
These two pattern layouts directly determine / constraint in which orientations and positions a certain tyre can be used on a vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Therefore, there are four possible tread layouts:'''<br />
# Symmetric bi/non-directional tread<br />
# Asymmetric bi/non-directional tread<br />
# Symmetric (uni)directional tread<br />
# Asymmetric (uni)directional tread<br />
<br />
<br />
The pelicularities of each layout will be discussed below.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Symmetric bi/non-directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* This has historically been the most common tyre tread pattern layout, but it's use is steadily decreasing in the 21st century.<br />
* It is still the most common layout for HT/AT/MT tyres.<br />
* No matter how the tyre is turned around or mounted, the tread looks just the same every time.<br />
* Therefore, this layout imposes '''no''' restrictions on how the tyre needs to be oriented when being mounted on a wheel, nor on which sides of the vehicle the tyre+wheel assembly can be used afterwards.<br />
* In other words, this layout provides complete flexibility regarding orientations when mounting tyres on wheels '''and''' when mounting the tyre+wheel assembly on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with symmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Hankook Optimo H724 - representative image.jpg|Hankook Optimo H724<br />
Tyre Bridgestone Potenza RE92 - representative image.jpg|Bridgestone Potenza RE92<br />
Tyre Bridgestone Turanza AR10 - representative image.jpg|Bridgestone Turanza AR10<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with symmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Yokohama-Geolandar-HT-S - representative image.jpg|Yokohama-Geolandar-HT-S<br />
Tyre General Grabber AT3 - representative image.jpg|General Grabber AT3<br />
Tyre Goodyear Wrangler AT-SA - representative image.jpg|Goodyear Wrangler AT-SA<br />
Tyre Falken Wildpeak WP AT01 - representative image.jpg|Falken Wildpeak WP AT01<br />
Tyre Kumho Road Venture MT51 - representative image.jpg|Kumho Road Venture MT51<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Asymmetric bi/non-directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When someone says or writes just "asymmetric tread", they usually refer to this layout, because most asymmetric treads are bi/non-directional.<br />
** However, there are notable exceptions (read below), so explicit mentioning of tread's directionality too is always desired.<br />
* When a tread is asymmetric, it means that the left and right portion of the tread are different when compared to one another.<br />
** The reason is that one side is optimized for one scenario (for example to handle cornering forces) and the other side for another scenario (for example for water ejection to evade "aquaplanning").<br />
* This means that asymmetric tread layouts generally provide more versatility and better optimization of available tyre tread surface than "plain" symmetric treads.<br />
* The "left" and "right" portion of the tread are usually designed for (and referred as) being the "inner" and "outer" side of the tread/tyre (when it is mounted on a vehicle).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Pirelli P-Zero System Asimmetrico.jpg|Pirelli P-Zero System Asimmetrico<br />
Tyre Continental WinterExtremeContact - representative image.jpg|Continental WinterExtremeContact<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Maxxis Escapade CUV - representative image.jpg|Maxxis Escapade CUV<br />
Tyre Michelin Latitude Cross - representative image.jpg|Michelin Latitude Cross<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional treads typically have an "Inside" and/or "Outside" inscriptions / markings on their sidewalls, indicating proper orientation when mounting them on a wheel.<br />
** Therefore, it is very important to always mount an asymmetric bi/non-directional tyre on a wheel in proper orientation.<br />
*** This means that the "outside" side of the tyre should be on the outer side of the wheel.<br />
* After that, such a tyre+wheel assembly can be used on any side of the vehicle, because the "outside" side of the tyre will always be ... well, on the outer side of the wheel.<br />
* In other words, this layout just requires simple caution to properly orientate a tyre when mounting it on a wheel, and after that it provides complete flexibility regarding positions and orientations when mounting the tyre+wheel assembly on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Symmetric (uni)directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When someone says or writes just "(uni)directional tread", they usually refer to this layout, because most (uni)directional treads are symmetric.<br />
* When a tread is (uni)directional, it means that its pattern is designed and optimized to do its work for just one tyre rolling direction.<br />
* Concentrating the design effort on only one direction of motion enables better optimization of the tread performance like directional stability, grip, "aquaplanning", wear rate, etc.<br />
* The appearance of (uni)directional treads usually vaguely or strikingly resembles a "V" shape.<br />
* Most winter tyres have this tread layout, because it enables significant optimization of tread performance for very slippery or wet conditions - where every bit of additional grip can make a difference.<br />
* This tread layout can also be encountered on many summer and all-season tyres as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with symmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 - representative image.jpg|Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110<br />
Tyre Continental WinterContact TS800 - representative image.jpg|Continental WinterContact TS800<br />
Tyre Fulda Kristall Control HP2 - representative image.jpg|Fulda Kristall Control HP2<br />
Tyre Goodyear UltraGrip plus SUV - representative image.jpg|Goodyear UltraGrip plus SUV<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with symmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Kumho Road Venture MT KL71 - representative image.jpg|Kumho Road Venture MT KL71<br />
Tyre Yokohama Geolandar MT - representative image.jpg|Yokohama Geolandar MT<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* (Uni)directional symmetrical tyres typically have a "Rotation" inscription / marking on their sidewalls combined with some directional marking (usually an embossed arrow shape).<br />
** This marking directly determines in which orientation a tyre needs to be mounted on a wheel, depending on which side of the vehicle will the wheel+tyre assembly be mounted afterwards.<br />
* Since a tyre can be mounted on a wheel with the "Rotation" marking pointing either to the left or to the right (when viewing the wheel from its outside/face side), such a tyre+wheel combination should then '''only''' be used '''either''' on the left '''or''' on the right side of the vehicle.<br />
** In other words, after such a tyre is mounted on a wheel, that assembly should be then used only on one side of the vehicle (depending on how was the tyre oriented when it was mounted on the wheel).<br />
*** This prevents the use of [[#Using five identical tyres|five identical tyres]].<br />
**** Reason: tyres can not be switched from one side of the vehicle to another without dismounting them from the wheel, turning them around and mounting them again - a cumbersome and expensive endeavor.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Asymmetric (uni)directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* This tread design layout is rather rare.<br />
* Although it theoretically provides the best possible potential for the optimization of the tread surface, it inherently invokes a layer of complexity for which 99% of the tyre market is not accustomed to.<br />
* Because '''both''' the "outside" parameter and the "rotation" parameter need to be respected simultaneously, the tyre model would have to be made in two distinct editions - with a tread layout for the left side of the vehicle and with the tread layout for the right side of the vehicle.<br />
** In other words, it would have to be like a left shoe and a right shoe for humans.<br />
* The seller / installer / buyer would have to be careful to always sell / install / buy such tyres in a "left" + "right" pairs.<br />
* In that case, each tyre marked as "left" from the factory would have to be mounted on a wheel while respecting its "outside" marking (and then used only on the left side of the vehicle), and the same analogy goes for each tyre marked "right" from the factory.<br />
** It should now be clear why this tread layout is rather rare, because of a high risk of improper mounting by trained monkeys (most tyre installers and car mechanics).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of tyres with asymmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Uniroyal RainSport 3 - representative image.jpg|Uniroyal RainSport 3<br />
Tyre Michelin Pilot Primacy - representative image.jpg|Michelin Pilot Primacy<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Tyre Michelin Pilot Primacy - two tyres on left and right positions.jpg|thumb|center|Example of a pair of Michelin Pilot Primacy tyres when mounted for a left and for a right position]]<br />
<br />
<br />
* For the few found tyre models with this layout, all of them exist either only in "left" or only in "right" tread layout (to keep the matters simple for the sellers / installers / buyers).<br />
* However this means that the tyres on one side of the vehicle will always be improperly mounted.<br />
** They will be either in reverse direction of motion, or with outside portion of the tread on the inside portion of the wheel!<br />
* That's exactly how each car with such tyres rolls around in practice! - seen and confirmed.<br />
* This interesting issue is still under investigation.<br />
* Why did those manufacturers dare to make such tyres when they knew that they can not be properly mounted on one side of the vehicle?<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Summary of tread layouts ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all terrain use, bi/non-directional treads (either symmetric or asymmetric) are definitely recommended.<br />
** Main reason: they are the prerequisite for the very good practice of [[#Using five identical tyres|using five identical tyres]].<br />
** Asymmetric treads are in theory better (more versatile) than symmetric treads, but this of course varies in practice, depending on a comparison between particular tyre models.<br />
* (Uni)directional treads should generally be avoided for all terrain use.<br />
** Main reason: they prevent you from [[#Using five identical tyres|using five identical tyres]].<br />
* (Uni)directional treads' performance virtues are typically best utilized in very high-speed summer tyres, in winter tyres when used in harsh snowy/icy conditions, or in MT tyres when used mostly in deep mud.<br />
** If that is the predominantly expected terrain, then (uni)directional tyres might be worthy of consideration.<br />
** If you will be using [[#Using six identical tyres|six identical tyres]], then (uni)directional tyres provide (almost) no restrictions when compared to bi/non-directional tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre suitability for different weather conditions ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* The primary ingredient in tyres is rubber.<br />
** Various important physical characteristics of rubber are quite susceptible to the ambient temperature - it's just in rubber's nature.<br />
* Therefore, it is extremely difficult (if not impossible) to make a tyre which performs (and wears out) equally well in all weather conditions and in all yearly seasons.<br />
* In certain parts of the world, the difference between maximum daily ambient temperatures in summer and minimum nightly temperatures in winter can be higher than 60 degrees Celsius!<br />
** The difference in road temperature can even be more than 100 degrees Celsius, because the road surface can get scorching hot during the summer.<br />
* On the other hand, in many other parts of the world, the difference in ambient and road temperatures between their summer and winter yearly seasons is much lower, sometimes as low as 10-15 degrees Celsius.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This large temperature discrepancy between different seasons in certain parts of the world is the reason why summer and winter tyres exist.<br />
** Life would be much simpler it there was no need for them.<br />
*** If you manage to invent a compound that can completely replace rubber in tyres and also completely eliminate their temperature dependency, you will be one of the richest and most celebrated persons on Earth, plus a Nobel prize winner.<br />
**** Imagine having personal airplanes, yachts, space shuttles, unlimited power, unlimited access to purest drugs, a brigade of slaves and of course more females in a grand harem than all Ottoman sultans and Arab sheiks have ever had combined! <br />
* However, in the recent decades, a special category of allegedly "all season" tyres has began to emerge.<br />
** Such tyres are advertised to be a universal solution which performs equally well in any weather condition or ambient temperature.<br />
** Numerous real world tests show that the effectiveness of all season tyres strongly depends on how "far" is their ambient temperature operating range "stretched".<br />
** In other words, an all season tyre might perform quite satisfactory (equally well) in all weather conditions if the difference between the extremes of those conditions is relatively small (like in tropical or mediterranean climates for example).<br />
** However, most all season tyres fail to perform even close to equally well when the ambient temperature difference between the "warm" and "cold" conditions is relatively high (like in some continental climates for example).<br />
* Another worthy note is that in practice, most "all season" tyres in the world wide tyre industry are actually winter tyres which have been "enhanced" to handle the warmer weather better than a standard winter tyre.<br />
** This means that most "all season" tyres are better suited for relatively cold regions than for relatively hot regions of the world.<br />
** One known exception to this design philosophy is Michelin's [https://www.michelinman.com/tire/michelin/cross-climate-plus CrossClimate Plus] (and its predecessor CrossClimate) all-season tyre model, which is a summer tyre which is enhanced for use in cold conditions. It got a lot of praise.<br />
* So to conclude, an all-season tyre is usually either a winter or a summer tyre that has improved / wider temperature operating range than an ordinary winter or summer tyre, but it's certainly not immune to differences in ambient temperature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since the difference between summer and winter ambient and road conditions varies significantly between various regions of the world (often even within the same country), there is no worldwide standard for determining and marking the suitability of tyres for all weather conditions.<br />
** In other words, there is no official standard to say what the "all season" claim would actually encompass in terms of actual weather conditions.<br />
* Therefore, each tyre manufacturer may label a certain tyre model as a "summer" or a "winter" tyre in one world market, and simultaneously label it as an "all season" tyre in another world market.<br />
* It all comes down to practical application - a winter / summer / spring / autumn on a Mediterranean coastline is certainly not the same as winter / summer / spring / autumn in the Alps for example.<br />
* So it is logical that a certain tyre model may be marketed as an all season tyre in Greece or in Portugal for example and as a summer only tyre in Poland or in Finland.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Possible inadequate performance of all-season tyres in extreme (hot / cold) operating conditions may be partially mitigated by having a leisure and defensive driving style.<br />
** Such driving style is generally recommended when driving any 4WD vehicle.<br />
*** Reason: most 4WD vehicles have high center of gravity, which increases their tendency to roll over in case of collisions or having to perform an evasive maneuver. They also have longer braking stopping distances than ordinary passenger vehicles, and they guzzle significantly more fuel when driven sharply.<br />
* Conclusion: Even if your local climate causes relatively high ambient temperature differences during different times of the year, using all-season tyres might still be quite a viable option if you always drive your vehicle defensively and carefully.<br />
** In other words, the weaknesses of all-season tyres in extremely warm or cold weather might not become so critical when driving slowly and carefully.<br />
* ''All-season'' tyre type is best combined with ''all-terrain'' carcass and tread construction - then it's truly a tyre for ''All and All''!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Choosing tyre size ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Reasons and benefits ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Why would you want to change your tyre size?<br />
* Well, for all terrain vehicles, the usual strive is to increase ground clearance.<br />
** Increasing wheel diameter by increasing tyre profile (the second number in tyre size marking) is the most effective way to achieve this.<br />
*** It lifts the entire vehicle (including the axles!), and is dead simple to do for mild increases.<br />
** There are additional advantages of increasing the tyre profile ("tyre height").<br />
*** This is mentioned in the [[#Tyre profiles|"Tyre profiles"]] chapter.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|When a wheel diameter is changed by a certain amount, the vehicle's (and the axles') ground clearance will change by only half as much (by the amount of wheel's radius change).<br> Basic school geometry explains why.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Issues and risks ===<br />
<br />
<br />
'''However, increasing the wheel circumference/radius incurs the following technical issues:'''<br />
# The vehicle will accelerate harder / slower and will move faster downhill on engine braking (in any gear);<br />
# Transmission will have a heavier duty to perform;<br />
#* This leads to premature wear in the long term;<br />
# Fuel economy is slightly decreased;<br />
#* This is mostly because of harder acceleration;<br />
# Speedometer and tachometer measurement will change as much as the circumference has changed;<br />
# Larger tyres might not fit;<br />
#* They might rub on the bodywork when the front wheels are turning left/right, or when the suspension is compressed on uneven terrain;<br />
# The larger spare tyre might not fit in its spare position (contact with some vehicle body parts) and/or in its case/cover;<br />
# Using snow/mud chains can be risky or impossible, because of (much) less available clearance between the wheels and the surrounding bodywork and mechanical components.<br />
#* However, 4WD vehicles might need snow/mud chains only on steep icy terrain, or for plowing very deep snow.<br />
#* A 4WD vehicle with AT tyres also could benefit of chains in deep soft muddy terrain. <br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* The extent / severity of these issues highly depends on how much the wheel radius has been increased.<br />
** They should be negligible to slight at most, if you stay roughly within +-3% of the factory size.<br />
* Using too wide tyres also induces some of these issues and risks.<br />
** Also, very wide tyres significantly increase the drag force when pulling a bogged vehicle from deep mud.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of these technical issues can be (and usually have to be) remedied in case of significant tyre size increases:<br />
# Impact on vehicle's acceleration and engine braking can be remedied by altering the transmission gears ("regearing").<br />
#* Regearing the transmission will also remedy the load on some parts of the transmission.<br />
#** However, some parts, like the wheel bearings for example, will remain under heavier duty;<br />
# Tyres can be made to fit properly by either or both of the two methods:<br />
## By lifting the vehicle's body or suspension;<br />
## By altering the bodywork (trimming the wheel arches, inner arch linings, etc.) (usually irreversibly), the extent of which highly depends on tyre size;<br />
# In Jimny's case, the larger spare tyre can be made to fit to the tailgate by installing a spacer on the tyre holder;<br />
#* However, the spare tyre vinyl cover or hard spare tyre case has to be custom-made (if badly needed);<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* Some of the mentioned remedies can be quite expensive to apply, and might also imply further modifications.<br />
** For example, higher suspension lifts require modified radius arm bushes, brake hoses, propeller shafts, adding wheel spacers, buying a new loan at the bank ....<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|Using a non-factory tyre size might be illegal or require some vehicle recertification, depending on country or region.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Impact of larger tyres on fuel economy ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Introduction ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using larger tyres certainly negatively impacts fuel economy.<br />
** However, calculating how much is not straightforward!<br />
* There is an important factor of calculation which most people do not take into account, and then they get skewed results.<br />
** The factor is that, with larger tyres, the odometer will record less distance than the vehicle has actually traveled.<br />
*** '''Without''' counting this factor in, the fuel consumption figures get skewed for the worse (the calculated consumption falsely shows to be even higher than it actually is).<br />
* To count this factor in, you have to calculate the percentage of odometer reading mismatch, and multiply it with the odometer reading (to correct the reading to the true value).<br />
** Read more below for the details.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Full details ====<br />
<br />
<br />
The standard method of calculating fuel consumption in practice (in "<font face="courier">l / 100 km</font>" measuring unit) is:<br />
# Fill in a full fuel tank of fuel.<br />
#* Then note the current odometer reading.<br />
# Drive until the fuel tank gets to a (preferably) reserve level.<br />
# Fill in a full fuel tank of fuel again.<br />
#* Then note the current odometer reading.<br />
#* Also note how much fuel was poured in.<br />
* The amount of poured fuel during the last fill is the parameter "<font face="courier">F</font>".<br />
* Calculate the difference between the two odometer readings.<br />
#* That is the parameter "<font face="courier">S</font>".<br />
* The formula to calculate the fuel consumption "<font face="courier">C</font>" is: <font face="courier">'''C = 100 * F / S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
An example:<br />
* After traveling for <font face="courier">385 km</font> since the last full fuel tank fill, the amount of poured fuel to fill a fuel tank was <font face="courier">34,5 l</font>.<br />
* The calculated fuel consumption: <font face="courier">C = 100 * 34,5 / 385 = '''8,96''' l / 100 km</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This method of calculation works just fine when using stock sized tyres.<br />
* When using larger tyres, the odometer (and speedometer) reading (parameter "<font face="courier">S</font>") is skewed (incorrect) because the device is calibrated for the stock tyre size (wheel ''circumference'').<br />
* The circumference of a wheel in fact represents exactly the path that the wheel travels for one full wheel rotation.<br />
* The speedometer and odometer only count the wheel rotations (by counting the rotations of some particular gear in the transmission), and they expect the wheel circumference to be close to the theoretical stock size (it always varies slightly due to tyre construction and varying tread depth).<br />
** Therefore, when a larger diameter wheel is used, the odometer will count less distance than the vehicle has actually traveled in real life.<br />
*** The amount of skew is directly proportional to the amount of wheel circumference change.<br />
<br />
<br />
An example:<br />
* The theoretical diameter "<font face="courier">D1</font>" of a stock sized tyre (<font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font>) is <font face="courier">668,0 mm</font>.<br />
** Its circumference "<font face="courier">C1</font>" is: <font face="courier">C1 = D1 * pi = 668,0 * pi = 2098,58 mm</font>.<br />
* The theoretical diameter "<font face="courier">D2</font>" of a <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> tyre is <font face="courier">703,5 mm</font>.<br />
** Its circumference "<font face="courier">C2</font>" is: <font face="courier">C2 = D2 * pi = 703,5 * pi = 2210,11 mm</font>.<br />
* The difference: <font face="courier">C2 - C1 = 111,53 mm = 11,2 cm</font>.<br />
** That is how much additional distance the larger wheel will travel with each wheel rotation!<br />
* It might not look like much for one wheel rotation, but it's actually a <font face="courier">(C2 / C1 - 1) * 100 = 5,31%</font> increase in wheel circumference.<br />
** This directly translates to <font face="courier">'''5,31%'''</font> increase in the path traveled, for <font face="courier">'''any'''</font> distance.<br />
*** That means, when your odometer shows that you have traveled <font face="courier">1000 km</font> with these larger tyres, you have actually traveled circa <font face="courier">1053 km</font>!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Now, if you keep on using the standard fuel consumption calculation formula with the larger tyres (without factoring in the skew in the odometer reading), you will get skewed results.<br />
** Because you have actually traveled more distance (and therefore used more fuel) than your odometer shows, the calculated fuel consumption will be higher than it actually is.<br />
* You will find many driver reports/complaints on the Internet of increased fuel consumption after installing larger tyres, where many drivers even provide "calculated" fuel consumption figures.<br />
** However, most of those people have not factored in this odometer reading skew, rendering their results incompetent.<br />
** If someone has not mentioned that they had factored in the skew in the odometer reading when calculating fuel consumption with larger tyres, than don't trust their fuel consumption figures.<br />
<br />
<br />
To continue on the above to examples:<br />
* You have <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> tyres.<br />
** Their theoretical circumference is <font face="courier">5,31%</font> larger than the theoretical circumference of stock-sized tyres (<font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font>).<br />
* The recorded odometer difference "<font face="courier">S</font>" between two full fuel tank fills is <font face="courier">385 km</font>.<br />
* The amount of filled fuel "<font face="courier">F</font>" during the last fuel fill was <font face="courier">34,5 l</font>.<br />
* Standard calculation (''without'' factoring the skew in odometer reading): <font face="courier">C = 100 * F / S = 100 * 34,5 / 385 = '''8,96''' l / 100 km</font>.<br />
* However, if you factor in the skew in the odometer reading: <font face="courier">S' = S * 1,0531</font><br />
* Now, the new ('''correct''') calculation: <font face="courier">C = 100 * F / S' = 100 * 34,5 / (385 * 1,0531) = '''8,51''' l / 100 km</font>!<br />
* This is a difference of <font face="courier">'''0,45''' l / 100 km</font>!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusion ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* While the fuel consumption does slightly increase with larger tyres, it isn't nearly as much as standard "calculations / measurements" would indicate.<br />
* To accurately calculate / measure the fuel consumption with larger than stock size tyres, you need to determine the percentage of change in wheel circumference compared to stock size, and then include that factor in the standard formula for calculating fuel consumption.<br />
* The percentage of change in wheel circumference is parameter "<font face="courier">P</font>".<br />
* The final formula (<font face="courier">l / 100 km</font> unit) is: <font face="courier">'''C = 100 * F / (S * (1 + P/100))'''</font><br />
<br />
<br />
The percentage of change in wheel circumference between stock tyre size and other commonly used sizes with Jimnys can be found in one of the tables in the chapter [[#Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny wheels|'''"Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny wheels"''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny factory wheel specification ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The specifications of both Jimny 3 and Jimny 4 OEM wheels (both alloy and steel) are <font face="courier">5.5Jx15 ET5</font>.<br />
<br />
Wheel stud mounting specification ("PCD" parameter) for Jimny 3 and Jimny 4 is <font face="courier">5 x 139.7</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny factory tyre specification and approved specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 factory tyre specification(s) ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
Valid for all Jimnys 3 (with exceptions noted below):<br />
* Tyre size is <font face="courier">'''205 / 70 / R15'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre load carrying index is <font face="courier">'''96'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre maximum velocity index is <font face="courier">'''S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
These are the known exceptions:<br />
* Some JDM (Japanese domestic market) models (possibly <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font>?, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** Some JDM Jimny models are smaller / lighter, and hence narrower tyres.<br />
** The Japanese Jimny XC/XG models manufactured in 2017 have a tyre size of <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R16</font> (unknown load and velocity).<br />
* Brazilian "4sport" and "4work" editions before 2017 production year (<font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** They have different front bumper, wheel arches and some body lift to accommodate the tyres.<br />
* 2WD/RWD-only "el-cheapo" Jimnys (without 4WD mechanics), produced from 1998 to approx 2001 (<font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font>, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** Suzuki probably chose this size to aid grip in wet and snowy conditions.<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes on factory specifications:<br />
<br />
* Size <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> is also the factory tyre size on Suzuki Vitara / Escudo / Sidekick 1 (1988-1998, somewhere up to 2004) and many Suzuki SJ413 / Samurai editions.<br />
** It is not known if Vitara and SJ41x models use the same load and velocity specifications or not.<br />
* While the size <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font> appears to be much smaller than <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> on a first "numeric" glance, the tyre radius (and implicitly ground clearance) is just 3,5 mm smaller.<br />
** So, the "smaller" size is actually quite competitive to the "normal" one.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 4 factory tyre specification(s) ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
Valid for all Jimnys 4 (with exceptions noted below):<br />
* Tyre size is <font face="courier">'''195 / 80 / R15'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre load carrying index is <font face="courier">'''96'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre maximum velocity index is <font face="courier">'''S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
These are the known exceptions:<br />
* ''Write any known exceptions here!''<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes on factory sizes:<br />
* ''Write any additional notes here!''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Approved non-factory tyre specifications ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* According to some South African and Australian forums (example: [http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/67086-Approved-Jimny-tires this forum topic]), their local Suzuki dealers' official policy is to allow +-3% variation in wheel diameter.<br />
** Therefore, if your Jimny is under warranty (or you want to be mechanically moral), +-3% is your expansion border.<br />
* As far as it is known, no vehicle manufacturer sets restrictions on using tyres with higher load and/or velocity rating(s) compared to factory specifications (they just restrict not to use lower than factory specified).<br />
** While a higher tyre velocity specification certainly can't hurt in any regard, a higher load specification '''can have''' negative consequences, especially on a super-light vehicle like any Jimny.<br />
*** Read the chapter about C and LT tyres for more info about consequences when using tyres with higher load rating than specified by vehicle manufacturer.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|If you want to be certain if a desired non-factory tyre specification would be officially approved, then check with your local Suzuki dealer!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny's stock wheels ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Quick and simple decision ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The three most popular, non-extreme size upgrades from Jimny 3's factory size of <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> are to:<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">205 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''10 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is +3%;<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">195 / 80 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''13 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is +3,8%;<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''18 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is a moderate +5,3%;<br />
<br />
<br />
Jimny 4's stock tyre size of <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> is already quite good for all-terrain use. The only possible non-extreme size upgrade from it is to:<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''5 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is only +1,5%, but tyre width increase is 2 cm;<br />
<br />
<br />
A side note: If your desired tyre model is not available in Jimny 4's stock size of <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font>, a good "close match" alternative is the size <font face="courier">205 / 75 / R15</font>. With that size, you will lose only a negligible 2 mm of ground clearance and the negative consequences of having (only) 5% wider track will not be significant.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, even these non-extreme size upgrades '''may''' impose certain risks of collisions between tyres and the vehicle body in some vehicle configurations.<br />
** That mostly depends if the vehicle has front mudflaps or not, if wheel spacers are used, etc.<br />
*** For Jimny 3, another factor of risk is if the vehicle has 2nd gen. front bumper or not.<br />
* For Jimny 3, the overall risk is generally the lowest with the first size in the list, and the highest with the third size in the list.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Any tyre size upgrade will also introduce certain deviations in vehicle's driving characteristics (road handling, acceleration, top speed, engine braking, transmission's stress).<br />
** However, for these three non-extreme size upgrades, those deviations range from "negligible" to "small".<br />
* For Jimny 3, the first size in the list is the least deviant, as it provides the smallest diameter change, while also keeping the same tyre width.<br />
* For Jimny 4, that only non-extreme size upgrade will definitely increase fuel consumption and possibly reduce traction on slippery roads, as the tyre profile is 10% wider than stock.<br />
** Wider tyre - more dry road rolling friction and weaker road holding on packed snow and ice.<br />
<br />
<br />
For Jimnys 3:<br />
* Bear in mind that while the first size '''might''' be allowed by Suzuki (depending on company's regional policy), the second and third sizes are definitely not allowed by Suzuki (regional exceptions may apply).<br />
<br />
For any Jimny generation:<br />
* Bear in mind that ANY tyre and/or wheel ("rim") sizes apart from those which are strictly specified in vehicle's handbook or vehicle's registration documents are prohibited in certain countries (example: Germany)!<br />
** In such cases, the vehicle usually has to be put through a state-prescribed certification process in order to legalize the use of a desired different tyre and/or wheel ("rim") size.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|MT class tyres, and especially "remoulded" (retreaded) tyres, typically deviate significantly from their theoretical sizes (they tend to be quite larger)!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Regarding "tyre vs. vehicle body" collision risks ====<br />
<br />
<br />
===== For Jimny 3 =====<br />
<br />
<br />
Sizes <font face="courier">205 / 75 / R15</font> and <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> generally have no risks of collisions with the vehicle's body, with two exceptions:<br />
# If you have a 2nd gen. front bumper (see below), you might have to straighten it if it is sagged, or trim it just slightly (invisibly) on the bottom (simple job with a grinding tool).<br />
# If you have front mud flaps, you might have to trim a plastic spacer behind them (which is easy to dismount and mount) by approx 10-15 mm.<br />
<br />
<br />
Size <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> could be more problematic:<br />
* It may require some trimming of the bottom of the front bumper, especially if it is a 2nd gen. bumper. <br />
* Front mudflaps will probably need to be removed.<br />
* The spare tyre might contact with the rear bumper.<br />
* Wheel arch trimming is generally not needed, except if wheel spacers are used without a lift.<br />
* Brazilian "HR" (2010-2012) "4sport" and "4work" (untill 2016) Jimny editions (which came with "<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>" tyres from the factory), also came with an approximate 25 mm body lift from the factory (to remedy the collision risks).<br />
** The Brazilian "4sport" edition also had a minimalist front bumper, which increased the clearance in front of front tyres (eliminating the collision risk when steering) and provided higher approach angle.<br />
<br />
<br />
===== For Jimny 4 =====<br />
<br />
<br />
''Write about any collission risks for the size 215 / 75 / R15 on a Jimny 4 here ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Final quick notes ====<br />
<br />
<br />
This was a quick and simple guide to the issue of tyre sizes.<br />
<br />
{{note|If you have or expect collision issues between your existing or planned tyres and the vehicle, you can remedy them by [[Lifting the vehicle|'''Lifting the vehicle''']] and/or by [[Wheel arch trimming|'''Trimming the wheel arches''']] and/or by trimming the front bumper.}}<br />
<br />
{{note|If you use a pendant-style tow bar mounted bicycle carrier, a wider spare tyre might collide with the bicycle carrier. This depends on how long the tow ball + tow neck section is.<br>Read [[Tow bar|"'''Tow bar'''"]] and [[Bicycle carriers|"'''Bicycle carriers'''"]] wiki articles for more information.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Thorough consideration ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}<br />
This chapter is for those who want to fully understand the possible effects and issues when using non-stock tyre sizes, and for those who intend to use significantly larger tyres than the stock size ones.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The following two tables contain detailed information on effects of various non-stock tyre sizes for Suzuki Jimny 2 (a.k.a. "Samurai" / SJ41x) and Suzuki Jimny 3 (a.k.a. SN41x).<br />
** Many of the effects and issues from the tables below are rarely taken into consideration until it is too late!<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, some general remarks about the tables below:<br />
* The two tables used to be a single large table, but it was split into two tables (a "left" part and a "right" part) in order to improve readability on-line and when printed.<br />
* The data in the first table is valid both for Jimny 2 and 3, as it mostly contains theoretically calculated mathematical figures and some general common comments.<br />
** Also, stated gearing deviations in the first table affect both vehicle models in a similar amount.<br />
** Some of the data from the first table could also be useful to Jimny 4 owners (for example: stated tyre dimensions for each tyre size).<br />
* All the data in the second table is Jimny 3 specific and deals only with the risks of collisions between the tyres (wheels) and Jimny 3's various body parts.<br />
** Reason: Jimny 2s typically have smaller body panels and therefore larger clearances around the wheels, so there are typically much lower risks of collisions.<br />
* All tyre sizes from these tables should fit on Jimny 2's and 3's stock steel and alloy wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The content of both tables was compiled by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek].<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bosanek sourced the data in the second table in smaller part from his personal experience, and in larger part from various forum topics here and there throughout the Internet.<br />
* Most of the collision risk evaluation comments in the second table should be taken as rough guidelines only, and not as precise statements.<br />
*# Reason 1: Every Jimny 3's "stance/posture" (and therefore clearance around the wheels) is slightly different (suspension sags a bit over time and use, the bumpers can get sagged too, etc.);<br />
*# Reason 2: There can be slight or even significant dimensional variations between different tyre models of the same theoretical size (read more below);<br />
<br />
<br />
Some additional notes:<br />
# Percentage of circumference / diameter change in the first table is also the percentage of speedometer and tachometer measurement change.<br />
# Suzuki's official allowed wheel diameter change (shown in the first table) for Jimny 3 is within +-3%.<br />
# Wheel diameter is most affected by the "H" parameter (tyre sidewall height). Tyre width is less important.<br />
#* For example, the diameter of a <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> tyre is larger than the diameter of a <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> tyre!<br />
#* The former tyre size is narrower but higher than the latter tyre size!<br />
# Tyre sizes in real life do not have to be 100% accurate as their theoretical measurements, because of variations in tyre construction for different tyre models.<br />
#* Tyres in AT class and especially MT class tend to deviate less or more from theoretical measurements, because of their "clunkier" and deeper treads and/or sidewalls.<br />
#* The most deviant by far (in terms of sizing) are "retreaded" tyres (remoulded, refurbrished, "protect", etc.). They are typically significantly larger than specified by standard sizing numbers.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="3" | Tyre size parameters<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>diameter<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>radius<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Sidewall<br>height<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>circumference<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Circumference<br>change from<br>stock size [%]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Fits into Suzuki's<br>+- 3% allowed variation?<br />
! rowspan="2" | Ground clearance<br>change from<br>stock size [mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | General comment<br />
! rowspan="2" | Gearing deviation<br>(acceleration, top speed, engine<br>braking, odo/speedo innacuracies)<br />
|-<br />
! W<br />
! H<br />
! R<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 65<br />
| 15<br />
| 634,5<br />
| 317,3<br />
| 126,8<br />
| 1993<br />
| -5,01<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| -17<br />
| Very cheap size for very cheapish owners<br />
| Significant, but not mechanically stressing as it is negative<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 654,0<br />
| 327,0<br />
| 136,5<br />
| 2055<br />
| -2,1<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| -7<br />
| Cheap size for cheapish owners<br />
| Negligible<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 673,5<br />
| 336,8<br />
| 146,3<br />
| 2116<br />
| +0,82<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| +3<br />
| No real benefit over factory size<br />
| Practically none<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 693,0<br />
| 346,5<br />
| 156,0<br />
| 2177<br />
| +3,74<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +13<br />
| Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Minor to small<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 82<br />
| 15<br />
| 700,8<br />
| 350,4<br />
| 159,9<br />
| 2202<br />
| +4,91<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +16<br />
| Rare size. Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Small to moderate<br />
|- style="background:#E6E6FF"<br />
| 205<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 668,0<br />
| 334,0<br />
| 143,5<br />
| 2099<br />
| 0<br />
| <span style="color: #0000FF;">'''HELL YES'''</span><br />
| 0<br />
| Factory Samurai / Jimny dimension<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFF2E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 688,5<br />
| 344,3<br />
| 153,8<br />
| 2163<br />
| +3,07<br />
| <span style="color: #FF9900;">'''PROBABLY YES'''</span><br />
| +10<br />
| Mild gains with rarely any collisions or deviations.<br><br>Recommended as the simplest upgrade.<br />
| Negligible to minor<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 709,0<br />
| 354,5<br />
| 164,0<br />
| 2227<br />
| +6,14<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +21<br />
| Rare size. Very good size for off roading.<br>Significant gains with moderate risks and deviations.<br />
| Significant, possibly mechanically stressing.<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 215<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 682,0<br />
| 341,0<br />
| 150,5<br />
| 2143<br />
| +2,1<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| +7<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Negligible<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 215<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 703,5<br />
| 351,8<br />
| 161,3<br />
| 2210<br />
| +5,31<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +18<br />
| Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Small to moderate<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 215<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 725,0<br />
| 362,5<br />
| 172,0<br />
| 2278<br />
| +8,53<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +29<br />
| Rare size. Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Large, requires regearing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 225<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 696,0<br />
| 348,0<br />
| 157,5<br />
| 2187<br />
| +4,19<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +14<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Minor to small<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 718,5<br />
| 359,3<br />
| 168,8<br />
| 2257<br />
| +7,56<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +25<br />
| Very good size for off roading.<br>Significant gains with moderate risks and deviations.<br />
| Large, needs regearing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 741,0<br />
| 370,5<br />
| 180,0<br />
| 2328<br />
| +10,93<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +37<br />
| Rare size. Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 710,0<br />
| 355,0<br />
| 164,5<br />
| 2231<br />
| +6,29<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +21<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Significant, mechanically stressing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 733,5<br />
| 366,8<br />
| 176,3<br />
| 2304<br />
| +9,81<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +33<br />
| Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 757,0<br />
| 378,5<br />
| 188,0<br />
| 2378<br />
| +13,32<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +45<br />
| Extremely good size for off roading.<br>Extreme gains with extreme risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="3" | Tyre size parameters<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs.<br>front bumper collision<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs. front mud flap collision<br>(if front mud flaps are fitted)<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs.<br>wheel arch collision<br />
! rowspan="2" | Risk of spare tyre vs.<br>rear door collision<br />
! rowspan="2" | Risk of spare tyre vs.<br>rear bumper collision<br />
|-<br />
! W<br />
! H<br />
! R<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
|-<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 65<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| If 2nd. gen front bumper is used, might require (invisible) minor front bumper bottom trimming.<br>Otherwise, no risk.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br>Some bottom trimming of front bumper cures it.<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| Very low<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 82<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br>Some bottom trimming of front bumper cures it.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| Low<br />
|- style="background:#E6E6FF"<br />
| 205<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFF2E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| None, except if the 2nd gen. bumper is sagged.<br />
| If 2nd. gen front bumper is used, might require (invisible) minor front bumper bottom trimming.<br>Otherwise, no risk.<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| ?<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| None<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 215<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| Usually none<br />
| None<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 215<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate to severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| Possible<br />
| None<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 215<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| None<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 225<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| ?<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate to severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The availability of different tyre models in a desired tyre size can vary significantly.<br>Not all tyres are manufactured in every listed tyre size for every market or all the time.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* As it is evident from the tables above, even if you choose to stay within Suzuki's alleged +3% allowed wheel diameter increase, there are several tyre profiles which can be used to achieve the goal of higher ground clearance.<br />
* It is preferred to achieve the goal by increasing sidewall height (second number in tyre profile sizing code) instead of altering tyre width (first number in tyre profile sizing code).<br />
* Maximum "gain" is achieved if both are increased at the same time.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre models in Jimny-compatible sizes ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* There is a wide variety of HT, AT and MT class tyre models which are available in Jimny-compatible sizes.<br />
** It would be a pity to use an ordinary limousine road tyre instead!<br />
<br />
<br />
* [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS8QK57r_0BElB4ZZNpcpr6DepJhhxnkl_8oSq8ZhJ29o8dHoknaYUi3H8nGBUlQWYyaHD_6qCHv8b_/pubhtml?gid=1&single=true '''This table'''] (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') contains the list of all brand-name HT, AT and MT tyres which he has found on the worldwide market.<br />
** In addition to the list of tyre models, that table also contains the availability of each tyre model in most popular Jimny-compatible sizes!<br />
* A lot of time has been spent populating that table, and adding custom remarks there.<br />
* The table is still incomplete in some details, but will be updated from time to time.<br />
** The sizing availability is the most incomplete, as it takes a lot of investigation to fill the required data for each tyre model.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Not all of those tyre models in the list are available in sizes which are compatible for Jimny. Sizing availability might depend on the market, and can change for better or worse at any time.}}<br />
<br />
Therefore, once you settle on your desired tyre size, now you can browse through tyre models and choose the one which is available in that size and suits your criteria the best.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== User experiences with certain tyre models ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Info about stock tyre models as fitted by Suzuki:<br />
* Stock tyre model on Jimny 3 and 4 is [https://www.bridgestone.co.uk/car-tyres/summer-tyres-dueler/h-t-684-ii/ Bridgestone Dueler H/T 684 II].<br />
* It is a summer HT tyre designed predominantly for on-road use.<br />
** Nothing remarkable at all.<br />
<br />
<br />
Here are the AT tyre models with which Jimny owners have had great or quite good experiences with:<br />
* Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+<br />
* General Grabber AT (not AT2!)<br />
* Continental ContiCrossContact AT<br />
* BF Goodrich AT/KO2<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* All of the above listed tyre models have proven themselves as being very good on-road in any time of year, while also proving to be rather versatile off road.<br />
* Also, General has recently (09/2016) released model '''AT3''', which looks very interesting indeed.<br />
** Avoid the model AT2, it is very old and deprecated one!<br />
*** Grabber AT2 is actually older than Grabber AT.<br />
* Many other AT tyre brands and models not mentioned above might also be quite good - investigate on your own!<br />
<br />
<br />
If you insist on heavy-duty off-road performance (but still want to retain '''some''' on-road credibility), there are three such MT class tyre models with which Jimny 3 owners have been relatively satisfied with:<br />
* BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2<br />
* Hankook Dynapro MT (RT03)<br />
* Kumho Road Venture KL71 (''(uni)directional!'')<br />
* [http://www.maxxis.co.uk/catalog/tyre-3-21-trepador-radial-m8060#sizes Maxxis Trepador M8060] (''(uni)directional!'') ''(Martin Lines comment: I have found these particularly good on a standard Jimny)''<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* Many other MT tyre brands and models not mentioned above might also be quite good - investigate on your own!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Spare wheel and tyre usage ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* All proper all terrain vehicles, like all Jimny generations, come with a full size matching spare wheel and tyre, which are the same (identical) as the other four wheels and tyres.<br />
** That is for a reason.<br />
** The reason is that (most) 4WD vehicles have to be driven on '''all four''' identical tyres '''all''' the time.<br />
*** The spare wheel and tyre will, sooner or later, (at least temporarily) take place of one of the usual four wheels and tyres.<br />
* Therefore, that spare wheel and tyre are not meant to be just carried around and sit idle all the time.<br />
* For all terrain vehicles, the spare wheel and tyre are not a fashion accessory nor a "dead cargo".<br />
** They are an important operational element of the vehicle, as well as an important safety device.<br />
* Therefore, the spare wheel and tyre must not be overlooked.<br />
** They should be actively used.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Otherwise, there are multiple risks of staying stranded in the event of the simplest tyre puncture, or even damaging vehicle's transmission in the event that the spare wheel and tyre do indeed have to be used!<br />
* If you use only four same tyres in a typical 4-tyre rotation scheme, you might easily end up with only three half-worn same tyres - useless for a 4WD vehicle.<br />
** For example, a sidewall puncture is generally impossible to repair properly.<br />
*** You will have to discard the remaining three tyres and buy all four/five new tyres - what a waste. <br />
<br />
<br />
However, there are some rules and restrictions when actively using five same tyres - read more in the following subchapters.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using five identical tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Buy and use five same (identical) tyres! The spare tyre should not sit idle all the time! That is even written in each Jimny's owner manual.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* The spare wheel and tyre should be actively and periodically rotated together with the other four wheels and tyres, and all should be the same.<br />
** In other words, the 5th wheel and tyre should play an equal role and importance as the other four wheels and tyres.<br />
* In case of an all-terrain vehicle like the Jimny, that gives you so much benefits.<br />
** There is only one downside - you pay 25% more at once when buying the tyre set.<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1svFOPe-Z1xS2BbiYvr3jQbAortqZevZy74VC9wdo9Dk/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which shows the actual 5-tyre rotation scheme, and also lists "FOR" and "AGAINST" reasons to actively use all five identical tyres in a 5-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is a good and handy practice to rotate the tyres with every engine oil change.<br />
* If you recently bought a set of four new identical tyres (they have not got worn more than 1-2 mm at most), you still have time to buy the fifth one.<br />
** Reason: the first tyre rotation schedule has not yet been performed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The five-tyre rotation scheme is especially suited to practice when using all-season tyres. Many AT-class tyres are all-season.}}<br />
<br />
{{warning|If you have a hard or soft spare wheel cover, you won't be able to use it with a spare tyre which is larger than the stock size.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Warning against using (uni)directional tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Five-tyre rotation scheme is '''not''' practical with tyres which have (uni)directional treads.<br />
** Reason: each such tyre must be used on only one side of the vehicle, depending on how it was oriented during its mounting on the wheel.<br />
* (Uni)directional tyres require a [[#Using six identical tyres|'''six''' tyre rotation scheme]] (or a plain four tyre single-side rotation scheme).<br />
** See the chapter [[#Тyre tread symmetry and directionality|"Тyre tread symmetry and directionality"]] for details.<br />
* Therefore, when using five tyres, always use bi/non-directional tyres.<br />
* Luckily, most HT, AT and MT tyre models have symmetrical treads, but there are exceptions.<br />
** Beware of this!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tread (a)symmetry is not related to the above note about tread directionality.<br />
** In other words, either symmetric or asymmetric treads can be used, as long as they are bi/non-directional.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using six identical tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using six identical tyres in a six tyre rotation scheme provides the most "advanced" (double) redundancy and robustness.<br />
* It is very recommended for extended overland expeditions in remote areas, or when frequently venturing in some really hard core off roading where tyre or wheel damage is a major operating risk.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The major disadvantage of a six tyre rotation scheme is that it requires the purchase of a 6th wheel, preferably the same one as the existing five wheels.<br />
* Additional disadvantage is the required space to carry the sixth wheel in/on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Qo5wIgLnsA8Tuq7rBJHqTyQhv8TNW7RwPFTOm3PbBjQ/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which shows the actual 6-tyre rotation schemes (separately for bi/non-directional and for (uni)directional tyres), and also lists "FOR" and "AGAINST" reasons to actively use all six identical tyres in a 6-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Considerations when using (uni)directional tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you want to use tyres which have (uni)directional treads, the six tyre rotation scheme is your only "advanced" option, apart from the plain four tyre single-side rotation scheme (not recommended).<br />
** See the chapter [[#Тyre tread symmetry and directionality|"Тyre tread symmetry and directionality"]] for details on tyre tread directionality.<br />
* When using (uni)directional tyres in a six tyre rotation scheme, the tyres are split into two groups, each containing three tyres.<br />
** One group of tyres is used only on the left side of the vehicle, while the other group of tyres is used only on the right side of the vehicle.<br />
* Therefore, you always have one spare tyre per one side of the vehicle.<br />
** That is unless you own a Mercedes G63 6x6.<br />
*** Then you need an eight tyre rotation scheme.<br />
**** But then you probably have servants or slaves doing that care for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using a non-matching spare tyre ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Introduction ====<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Using (periodically rotating) a matching spare tyre together with the other four tyres is strongly recommended, as per the above chapter [[#Using five identical tyres|"'''Using five identical tyres'''"]].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
However, if, for whatever reason, a non-matching spare tyre has to be used on a 4WD vehicle, special caution has to be applied in order to avoid expensive transmission damage!<br />
<br />
This subchapter is a guide what to do in this unfortunate event.<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, a ''non-matching'' tyre in this context means any of the following:<br />
* Different tyre size (width or height) than the other four tyres;<br />
* Different tyre model than the other four tyres;<br />
* Tyre's tread depth more than 1 mm or 2 mm different than the tread depth of the other four tyres;<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The cause of the issue with using a non-matching spare tyre:<br />
* Any 4WD transmission with a non-existing center differential (or when a center differential is locked) expects the same rotational speed and rotational friction from all four wheels.<br />
* If that is not the case, the gears and shafts of the transmission literally tension and wind up because of the discrepancies caused by a non-matching wheel.<br />
** If the tension and wind up become sufficiently high, something in the transmission '''will''' break.<br />
* With a non-matching spare wheel in the game, the breaking point could be just a few wheel turns away!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Installation position ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* With part-time 4WD vehicles like all Jimny generations, the non-matching spare wheel should always be used on the front axle.<br />
** The reason is that the front wheels are disconnected from the entire transmission when the vehicle is in 2WD and 2WD-L mode, and therefore using a smaller wheel does not impact the transmission then. <br />
<br />
<br />
So, if one of your '''front''' tyres get punctured, just replace that wheel with your non-matching spare wheel and tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
However, if one of your '''rear''' tyres gets punctured, the procedure would be:<br />
# Remove the punctured rear wheel;<br />
# Remove one good front wheel;<br />
# Install that front wheel in the place of the punctured rear wheel;<br />
# Install the spare non-matching wheel in the place of the removed front wheel.<br />
<br />
That's a lot of work if it's hot, cold, wet, dusty, raining, windy or night time! But it is the only proper way.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Now, when the non-matching spare tyre is on your front axle, as long as you don't engage 4WD, you should be fine.<br />
** So, do your best to get to the nearest tyre repair workshop strictly in 2WD mode.<br />
* If you have manually operating front wheel hubs, make sure that they are disengaged all the time.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Using 4WD mode with a non-matching spare tyre ====<br />
<br />
<br />
If you get a puncture in the middle of offroading where you need 4WD to get to civilization, you are in trouble.<br />
<br />
<br />
* After installing the spare non-matching wheel on the front axle per the above instructions, constrain the use of 4WD only when it is absolutely necessary.<br />
* Disengage 4WD as soon as it is not strictly necessary, and engage it later when necessary again, and so on.<br />
* If you have manually operating front wheel hubs, you have to engage and disengage them every time in sync with engaging and disengaging 4WD.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Alternatively, using 2WD-L mode would be safe in regards of the issue of non-matching spare tyre, and it might provide enough aid to get you trough difficult sections instead of using 4WD.<br />
** However, all Jimnys (made currently up to 2019 at least) have to be modified first in order to enable 2WD-L transmission mode.<br />
** See the chapter [[2WD-L transmission mode]] for details.<br />
<br />
<br />
* While 4WD is used, the size or friction discrepancy on one wheel will cause '''constant''' transmission wind up as long as the vehicle is moving in 4WD.<br />
** However, as long as 4WD is used on rather slippery ground (snow, mud, very loose gravel), the wind up should be able to constantly relieve itself, without harmful consequences.<br />
* In other words, one wheel will have to ''continously'' "underslip" in order to compensate for the discrepancy.<br />
** Only very slippery ground can enable that.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The most difficult situation would be with rather rocky or bumpy '''dry''' road, where you usually need to use 4WD-L 1st gear to pass slowly.<br />
* Because the road is '''dry and/or rather solid''', there is not enough chance for the transmission to relieve itself of the continuous discrepancy (for a wheel to continuously underslip).<br />
** Therefore, transmission damage in these conditions is quite likely!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, if you have to use a non-matching spare tyre on a dry rocky or bumpy road, the best option is 2WD-L 1st gear.<br />
** However, if your Jimny is not modified to have 2WD-L mode, it might be better to use 2WD 1st gear instead of 4WD-L 1st gear.<br />
*** That means you have to go through faster, or drive "improperly" by riding the clutch and/or the brakes.<br />
* It is the driver's decision whether to risk the damage to the suspension done by going faster through rocks and bumps, or to the clutch if riding it, or on the other hand, to risk damage to the transmission in 4WD-L mode. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre air pressures ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{note|Changing your tyre pressures to suit the (off)road conditions is the '''most effective''' vehicle mod ever!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Learn and use the skills of tyre pressure management.<br />
* In general terms, reducing tyre pressure by 20-30% from stock on-road pressure is the operating norm for hard (rough) gravel and general off-road conditions.<br />
** For deep mud, deep snow, sand and other boggy conditions, even more pressure reduction can be used (but with caution).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=480 heights=360 class=center caption="Example of Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+ 205 / 75 / R15 tyres on a Jimny 3, when deflated from stock 1,7 bar to 1,1 bar"><br />
Tyre with reduced air pressure on a Jimny - A01.jpg|Notice the relatively large contact area with the ground<br />
Tyre with reduced air pressure on a Jimny - A02.jpg|Notice how the tyre deforms to accommodate uneven ground under it<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Reducing air pressure in tyres from standard on-road pressure usually provides significant advantages when driving on unpaved surfaces and in off-road conditions.<br />
* However, there are a few potential disadvantages and risks too, depending on the situation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Advantages and benefits ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Increased contact area with the ground, thus:<br />
** Improving traction on most surfaces;<br />
** Improving flotation on soft ground;<br />
* Softer behavior of the tyre, so the tyre absorbs a much larger portion of impacts and vibrations, thus:<br />
** Improving ride comfort;<br />
** Reducing vehicle stress;<br />
* The tread surface acts less stiffly when contacting rough, sharp or pointy objects on the ground, instead deforming gently over them, with the following benefits:<br />
** Reduced risk of tyre tread damage (cutting, chipping);<br />
** Reduced risk of punctures through tyre tread;<br />
<br />
<br />
The following video shows tyre tread puncture tests performed at different tyre pressures for three different tyre constructions:<br />
<br />
<youtube>9Kz8mmLkeks</youtube><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Disadvantages and risks ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Vehicle's ground clearance decreases slightly (usually about 1 cm for Jimnys) when tyres' air pressure is reduced by ~30%.<br />
* Tyre's sidewall "bulges out" more when the air pressure is significantly reduced (see pictures above).<br />
** This increases the risk of contacting the sidewall with sharp objects along the road.<br />
* On roads where there is a significant risk of tyre sidewalls contacting rough/sharp objects (for example deep rutted tracks with a lot of debris in the walls of the ruts), it might be better not to decrease tyre air pressures significantly.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|When tyre pressures are reduced (for any reason), vehicle's top speed should be limited to approx '''50 km/h''' / '''30 mph''' on tarmac roads, or ~ '''40 km/h''' / '''20 mph''' on gravel roads. Otherwise, the tyres might overheat and disintegrate prematurely!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
Increased contact area between the tyre and the ground has two negative side effects as well:<br />
* Increased tyre tread wear;<br />
* Increased fuel consumption (because of higher friction);<br />
<br />
<br />
However, these two disadvantages are more than compensated by the following:<br />
* Significantly improved comfort;<br />
* Significantly reduced vehicle vibrations/stress;<br />
** By the way, increased tyre wear can be considered an issue only if you keep driving on-road (slowly) with reduced tyre air pressures for long distances.<br />
** What is cheaper:<br />
*** To spend a bit more fuel and to replace the tyres more often due to increased tread wear when driving off-road?<br />
*** To replace suspension components (and tooth fillings) more often due to excessive vibrations?<br />
<br />
<br />
When tyre air pressure is reduced quite significantly (say 40% or more), two special risks emerge:<br />
* Dislodging (dismounting) the tyre from the wheel when turning sharply during relatively high vehicle velocity;<br />
** This is because the air inside the tyre actually holds the tyre pressed onto the wheel rims.<br />
** With significantly reduced air pressure, the holding force is much smaller, and it is more easily defeated with significant side-cornering forces.<br />
* Turning the wheel without turning the tyre (the wheel turns along its rotational axis);<br />
** This usually happens when a sudden high torque is applied ("stomping" the throttle "''fast'n'furious''" style).<br />
** The wheel literally "slips" inside the tyre.<br />
** The tyre usually still stays on the wheel, with minimum to no air loss during the incident.<br />
*** However, if wheel balancing weights had been used to balance that wheel, the wheel balancing will be spoiled afterwards (because the correlation of the wheel balancing weights to the tyre has been skewed).<br />
** This incident is usually not noticeable when it happens, but the wheel disbalance which it causes certainly will be!<br />
*** If wheel balancing beads (pellets) had been used to balance that wheel, than wheel balancing will not be affected.<br />
* So, the point is that you should not drive sharply when air pressures are significantly reduced, and you should not have an issue.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Dependency of tyre pressures on axle load ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Required / recommended tyre pressure generally also changes with load (weight on the axle).<br />
** The heavier the load, the more pressure (air quantity in the tyres) on that axle is required to carry it.<br />
* For almost any vehicle, manufacturers specify different tyre pressures for different loads.<br />
** For example - with the driver only, with full passengers with cargo, when towing a trailer, with loaded cargo bay, etc.<br />
* For all Jimnys (as far as it is known), Suzuki has not specified different tyre pressures for empty and laden conditions.<br />
** That is probably because all Jimny generations have such a small load rating (for Jimny 3, cca 300 kg at most - roughly 150 kg per axle!) that it does not matter that much.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Specific tyre pressures for Jimnys ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For Jimny 3, the factory recommended on-road tyre pressure for stock size tyres (<font face="Courier">'''205 / 70 / R15'''</font>) is <font face="Courier">'''1,6 bar'''</font> front and <font face="Courier">'''1,8 bar'''</font> rear.<br />
** Some Jimny owners even the tyre pressures to <font face="Courier">'''1,7 bar'''</font> on all four tyres, for simplicity.<br />
* For Jimny 4, the factory recommended on-road tyre pressure for stock size tyres (<font face="Courier">'''195 / 80 / R15'''</font>) is <font face="Courier">'''1,8 bar'''</font> front and <font face="Courier">'''1,9 bar'''</font> rear.<br />
* When driving on gravel roads or general off road, it is completely fine (and even advisable) to reduce the tyre pressure by <font face="Courier">'''25-30%'''</font> to <font face="Courier">'''1,25-1,15 bar'''</font> (for Jimny 3) or to <font face="Courier">'''1,40-1,30 bar'''</font> (for Jimny 4).<br />
** The difference in ride quality is '''astonishing''', while the traction is significantly improved.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Effect of tyre size on tyre pressures ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When using tyres which are larger than stock size, all (both on-road and off-road) tyre pressures should be reduced from the above written numbers.<br />
** Because it is the air itself (air molecules) that carries all the weight, the concept is to always have the same number of air molecules in the tyre for certain road and load conditions.<br />
* The larger the tyre, the '''more''' air molecules fit inside for the '''same''' tyre pressure.<br />
** So, to achieve the presence of the '''same''' number of air molecules in the tyre regardless of tyre size, a '''lower''' tyre pressure has to be used with a '''larger''' tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is no simple formula for calculating how much the on-road (and implicitly off-road) tyre pressure should be reduced with certain larger tyre sizes.<br />
** This topic is still under investigation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre air pressure measurement, inflation and deflation ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Measurement ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is compulsory to carry a good quality tyre pressure measurement tool.<br />
* It is best to buy products for which there is some verified good customer feedback.<br />
** Example is when browsing on Amazon web stores, which have the integrated system of customer opinions on products which are on sale.<br />
*** Don't just glance over the "feedback stars" - read a few meaningful opinions!<br />
**** Reason: many people give a certain product "five stars" just because it was delivered quickly and the packaging was nice and shiny!<br />
** Other source of customer feedback on certain products can be from various Internet forums.<br />
<br />
<br />
The choice of an analogue vs. a digital pressure measurement tool comes down to this:<br />
* Analogue ones are larger and also more sensitive to shocks (if you drop them for example);<br />
* Digital ones are usually easier to read;<br />
** This is especially important during night time;<br />
*** That is when a digital tool with illuminated display really comes in handy;<br />
* Digital ones usually use batteries.<br />
** Some use non-replaceable batteries, meaning that, once the battery is depleted, the tool is wasted.<br />
** Since all batteries perform poorly in cold weather, a relatively weak battery can render a digital tool non-functional in cold weather;<br />
* Analogue tools are much less sensitive to cold/heat and also to getting wet.<br />
* Some analogue tools also have an "air release" valve, enabling tyre deflation to be performed while monitoring the air pressure in real time.<br />
<br />
<br />
Conclusion: It is best to have one analogue and one digital tool, to back-up one another.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Inflation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is also very desirable to have your own portable 12 V air compressor.<br />
** Portable 12 V air compressors exist in various qualities, capabilities and prices.<br />
*** See more below.<br />
* There are also fixed in-car air compressor installations available, for very advanced users.<br />
*** You also get those as a factory fitment on many military vehicles and on the Mercedes G63 AMG 6x6.<br />
** The (expensive) ARB differential locker comes with its own air compressor to operate it.<br />
*** That air compressor can also be utilized for tyre inflation.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Two most important operational parameters of an air compressor are:<br />
# The volume of air (in litres) per minute that it pumps.<br />
#* If you haven't figured out yet what that means, this translates to how fast it is.<br />
# For how long can it work before it has to be turned off to cool itself (to avoid overheating).<br />
#* If this time is too short for your application, you will have to make a long pause just before inflating the 4th (final) tyre ...<br />
<br />
<br />
Other attributes of a portable air compressor to consider are:<br />
* The length of its power cable and the length of its air hose;<br />
** Too long cable and hose might not be that much desirable;<br />
*** It takes more work to untangle and to store them, and they take up more space when stored.<br />
* The way that the cable and the hose pack inside the compressor's housing (or around it);<br />
* Compressor's housing size and proportions;<br />
* If it has a practical and not too bulky case to store it in while it is not used;<br />
* Optional adapters for the air hose, to inflate bicycle tyres, balls, air mattresses, your butt or your ego ...<br />
* The presence of an analogue or a digital air pressure gauge (and its accuracy);<br />
** Also if the gauge is back-illuminated or not;<br />
* If it has an air release button or valve;<br />
** It enables you to deflate the tyre while the compressor is connected to it;<br />
*** This is useful if you accidentally over-inflate a tyre;<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you want to get a cheap, but good quality portable 12V tyre air compressor, try asking around at vehicle junkyards.<br />
* They might have OEM portable 12V tyre air compressors extracted from some dead commercial vehicles (usually vans).<br />
** Some commercial vehicles were initially sold with such tools as additional equipment together with a standard wheel jack, triangle, tow rope, etc.<br />
*** Such air compressors get seldom if ever used during their lifetime.<br />
* Therefore, an (almost) unused Mercedes, Peugeot, Toyota or Iveco etc. OEM air compressor might be just the right deal.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres can be inflated at many fuel filling stations too.<br />
** It is recommended do to so whenever there is a fuel filling station with an air compressor nearby.<br />
*** Reason: their equipment is usually much quicker than portable personal air compressors.<br />
* However, pressure measurement instruments at fuel filling stations ''generally'' should not be trusted, as they could be '''wildly''' inaccurate!<br />
** There are local exceptions of course, but this is a general rule.<br />
* So, use the air compressors at fuel filling stations for speed, but check the outcome with your trusted pressure measurement gauge.<br />
** Trusting that a publicly (ab)used pressure measurement instrument at a fuel filling station is accurate is like trusting that a prostitute has no STD.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Deflation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyre deflation can simply be done by the stone age era method - using sticks and stones.<br />
* There are various cheap and expensive tools, which enable ''fast'' and/or ''controlled'' tyre deflation.<br />
** The quality and usefulness of those tools vary widely.<br />
* However, both the speed and control aspects, which some of those tools provide, can be achieved by other (free) means.<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding deflation speed:<br />
* Since tyres on all Jimny generations are relatively small (compared to most 4WD vehicles), the practice has shown that using the stone age method is generally not much slower than with the advanced tools.<br />
** In other words, the time savings provided by most tyre deflation tools are hardly worth the cost and effort on such relatively small tyres.<br />
* Employing a passenger to deflate two tyres in parallel with you (using sticks and stones) is almost as fast as using most of those tools.<br />
** Just tell them that there ain't no free 4WD ride - they have to break some sweat for it!<br />
* Also beware that the method, by which all of those "fast" deflators achieve their speed, is by temporarily removing (dislodging) the valve core while they are attached to the valve.<br />
** This has two negative aspects:<br />
**# It wears the valve core, and after many such deflations, the valve core can become significantly worn and susceptible to failure;<br />
**#* When a valve core fails, your tyre will lose all air quicker than you can read this sentence;<br />
**# The deflation speed is so fast that it can easily over-deflate if you are not very well timed (or if the automatic deflation control is not super reliable);<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding controlled deflation:<br />
* First of all, the term "''controlled deflation''" means either:<br />
** To get an indication when the desired pressure reduction has been achieved (in order to manually stop further deflation);<br />
** To have the deflation process stop automatically when desired pressure reduction is achieved; <br />
* Many tyre air deflation tools promise one of those methods of controlled deflation.<br />
** However, beware that the reliability of their deflation control mechanisms can be questionable, even with the expensive products!<br />
* Luckily, there is a cheap (free) alternative method of controlled deflation, which simply uses your own brains.<br />
** The concept is based on the fact that, after several inflation-deflation iterations (while using a proper tyre air pressure measurement tool), you should be able to roughly determine how much time you need to deflate your tyres from your typical on-road tyre pressure to your typical off-road tyre pressure.<br />
*** For example, one experience says that it takes approximately <font face="Courier">'''25 seconds'''</font> to reduce a <font face="Courier">'''205 / 75 / R15'''</font> tyre's pressure from <font face="Courier">'''1,7 bar'''</font> to <font face="Courier">'''1,20-1,15 bar'''</font>.<br />
*** When you gain such experience, you won't have to stop the deflation and check the tyre pressure several times with the pressure measurement tools when deflating each tyre.<br />
**** In fact, your wrist watch will become your main tool.<br />
**** This way, you will be able to deflate your tyres in one go with solid certainty in the amount of achieved deflation.<br />
**** Your tyre air pressure measurement instrument will just serve you for eventually double-checking the outcome.<br />
<br />
<br />
However, there is one type of tyre air deflation tool which is certainly worthy of consideration:<br />
* It is a "dumb" die-cast, push-pin, screw-on-valve tyre deflator.<br />
** Such tools are usually the cheapest of them all.<br />
** They are super reliable as they have no moving parts.<br />
** As a matter of fact, they are usually a single-piece cast metal.<br />
*** It can't get more robust than that!<br />
* Such deflators simply push the tyre valve's pin in (as you would do with a stone) all the time while they are screwed onto the valve.<br />
** This lets the air out of the tyre at the same rate (speed) as you would with a stone, until you unscrew them.<br />
*** So they are harmless to the valve, as they do not fiddle with the valve core to increase deflation speed, as all of the "super fast" deflators do.<br />
* In summary, these deflators do exactly the same thing as you would while pressing the valve pin with a stone, but in a more elegant manner.<br />
** They have no deflation control mechanisms, so the user must take care to unscrew them at the right time (to avoid over-deflation).<br />
* There are three advantages of this type of deflators over the stone age method:<br />
*# No need to crouch next to the tyre all the time during deflation;<br />
*# Also avoids having to endure the burst of freezing cold air from the tyre valve over your fingers all the time during deflation;<br />
*# If you are well organized and follow the timings, one person can deflate two tyres almost in parallel;<br />
*#* Тhis doubles the overall deflation speed and brings it practically on par as with the expensive fast tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
The procedure to perform an (almost) parallel two-tyre deflation with these tools:<br />
# First, you need two such deflators;<br />
#* They usually come in a set of four, so you'll even have spares.<br />
# Second, you need to know beforehand (from past experience) how much time is needed to perform the desired amount of deflation on your tyres.<br />
#* That time is the parameter "D";<br />
# Now, screw the 1st deflator onto the 1st tyre.<br />
#* Immediately note the current time on your watch;<br />
#** That time is the parameter "T1";<br />
# While the 1st tyre is being deflated, screw the 2nd deflator onto the 2nd tyre.<br />
#* Immediately note the current time on your watch;<br />
#** That time is the parameter "T2";<br />
#* If you are not being slow like a Jimny full of obese people, the time "T1+D" has not passed in the meantime.<br />
#* Now wait for the time "T1+D", and then unscrew the 1st tyre deflator.<br />
#* If you are not being clumsy like Suzuki's documentation writing bureaucrats, the time "T2+D" has not passed in the meantime.<br />
#* Wait for the time "T2+D", and then unscrew the 2nd tyre deflator.<br />
# Congratulations, you have successfully deflated two tyres almost in parallel.<br />
#* Be free to feel proud of yourself while every bystander looks at you and thinks you are a car-freak.<br />
# Now repeat the same procedure with the remaining two tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Draper 22487 dumb tyre deflation tool - A01.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Draper 22487 tyre deflator, serving as an example of a useful and cost-effective tyre deflation tool]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
* An example of such a "dumb", die-cast, "push-pin", "screw-on-valve" tyre deflator is [https://www.drapertools.com/product/22487/Expert-TPMS-Valve-Deflator-Tool Draper 22487].<br />
* While it says "TPMS" in the product's marketing name, there is nothing specific to TPMSes about it.<br />
** It does not require the presence of a TPMS system in a vehicle and it has no modes of operation or deflation control or whatever.<br />
** It is plainly dumb as a rock.<br />
* The price on manufacturer's website is unrealistically high for some reason (currently around 28 GBP), while it sells for a few pounds on most 3rd party web stores.<br />
* Forum user Bosanek has had excellent experience with this particular tool.<br />
* However there are other such products of the same type in the market.<br />
** Find and buy one of your own choice.<br />
*** Since they are a dumb die-cast single-piece of metal, they all have the same quality and performance.<br />
**** You can't go wrong with any of them!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel theft ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Wheels on Jimnys, especially alloy wheels, are interesting targets for theft just like on any other vehicle model.<br />
* One example is when someone needs one good wheel to replace their own damaged wheel or tyre.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read more on how to protect against wheel theft in '''[[Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts]]''' wiki article.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel balancing ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
All Jimny generations, as all vehicles with solid front axle suspensions, are susceptible of developing a "death wobble" vibration at a certain speed range.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read more about death wobble in '''[[Death Wobble]]''' wiki article.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
Since wheel disbalance can easily cause death wobble, you need to take additional considerations in order to balance your wheels properly.<br />
<br />
You can educate yourself about wheel balancing issues at the dedicated chapter "Wheel balancing" of the above mentioned death wobble wiki page: '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel balancing|Wheel balancing]]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel damages and repairs ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* In the context of this chapter, the term "''wheel''" refers to the entire metallic wheel/rim on which a rubber road tyre is mounted (without the tyre).<br />
* It is not unusual for a wheel to become damaged.<br />
* Generally, the risk is higher when driving on unpaved roads or off road.<br />
** For example on rough gravel roads or on rocky terrain.<br />
* However, the damage can occur even on a promenade.<br />
** For example when hitting a street curb or a pothole on the road.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on wheel (mis)alignment ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Forces sustained by strong wheel impacts or excessive vibrations can also cause the suspension / steering system to lose proper alignment.<br />
** Misaligned front suspension and steering system will cause improper steering.<br />
*** This means inaccurate self centering of the steering wheel, vehicle not going straight when the steering wheel is straight, excessive tyre wear, etc.<br />
** Misaligned front suspension and steering system can also cause '''[[Death Wobble|Death wobble]]'''. <br />
* In case of wheel misalignment, wheel re-alignment has to be performed in a professional workshop.<br />
** Read the chapter '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel alignment|Wheel alignment]]''' in the Death Wobble wiki article for some details about the process.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Types of wheel damages and repairs ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Scratches ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Wheels can get scratched, causing steel wheel to rust and alloy ones to lose appeal.<br />
** However, scratches do not present structural damage, so they are not given much attention in this article.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Bents ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The mildest (and most often) type of structural wheel damage is a '''b'''ent.<br />
* Bents cause the wheels to become warped.<br />
** Warped wheels cause rotational disbalance.<br />
*** Rotational wheel+tyre assembly disbalance is one of the most common causes of the '''[[Death Wobble]]''' phenomenon.<br />
* It is not always possible to detect a warped wheel, even to the trained eyes.<br />
** Professional measurement machinery is sometimes necessary.<br />
* In many cases of warped wheels, wheel+tyre assembly balancing measures can not compensate for the bent(s).<br />
** The distortions have to be remedied first.<br />
* Most ordinary wheel balancing machines can't even detect the warps.<br />
** That is because most of them measure the disbalance in only one plane of motion (longitudinal), and not the transverse "jerking" forces.<br />
** Such machines would complete the balancing process on a warped wheel just fine, and everything would appear to be perfectly balanced (according to the measurements of those machines).<br />
*** In reality, the wheel still (sometimes invisibly) wobbles from side to side while rotating.<br />
** There are specialized workshops and machines which can detect and correct the wheel bents, and therefore straighten the wheels (both the steel and alloy ones).<br />
* Only after those wheel straightening measures are applied, it makes sense to perform wheel+tyre assembly balancing.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Dents ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The medium type of structural wheel damage is a '''d'''ent.<br />
* Dents are usually obviously visible (if you care to look).<br />
* You should occasionally check your wheels for dents, scratches and mud/grit deposits from the inner side.<br />
** That is the side which is facing the brake disc / brake drum when the wheel is mounted.<br />
* A significant dent on a rim will usually be instantly noticeable.<br />
** Reason: it will allow the air to leak out from the tyre faster than you can fart when you least expect to.<br />
* Dents have a higher tendency to appear on steel wheels than on alloy wheels.<br />
** Dents on steel wheels are typically quite easy to repair.<br />
** Dents on alloy wheels are typically relatively difficult to repair (but more or less possible for sufficiently qualified and equipped servicemen).<br />
* After a wheel dent is repaired, the wheel should definitely be checked for distortions throughout (see the preceding chapter).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cracks ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The most extreme type of structural damage is a cracked or shattered wheel.<br />
** Steel wheels rarely, if ever, crack or shatter - they usually crunch.<br />
** Alloy wheels are more susceptible to cracking or shattering.<br />
*** The required force to cause an alloy wheel to crack or shatter is usually quite extreme (if good quality wheels are used).<br />
* Some specialized workshops can even mend (patch up) cracked and/or shattered wheels, even in most extreme cases.<br />
** An extreme case is when a wheel is brought to them as a collection of dozen pieces in a bag, and returned like it once used to be - at least visually.<br />
* The answer to the question "whether a mended cracked or shattered wheel will structurally be able to perform its intended duty (and be without any uncorrectable distortions)" is for you to ''discover''.<br />
** In this situation, you might be better off to buy a Land Rover ''Discovery'' (but without cracked wheels).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Additional considerations ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Importance of tyre profile ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The risk for any of these wheel damage types generally increases with lower profile tyres, and vice versa (less risk with higher profile tyres).<br />
*# Reason 1: With lower profile tyres, wheels are closer to the ground, and smaller rocks can reach them.<br />
*# Reason 2: With lower profile tyres, there is much less "cushioning" (damping) capacity in tyre's sidewalls when they hit a pothole, curb or a rock, leaving it on the rigid wheel to handle most of the shock.<br />
* Therefore, for general mixed terrain or off road use, '''higher profile''' tyres ("taller" tyres) are always more recommended over lower profile ones.<br />
** Higher profile tyres provide other additional benefits for all terrain use.<br />
*** Read the chapter [[#Tyre profiles|"Tyre profiles"]] for more information.<br />
* Now you start to get the idea why the 21st century breed of city-terrain steroid-pumped 4WD vehicles with factory-styled oversized wheels and low profile tyres are utterly absurd in the basic concept.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Importance of tyre air pressure ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Beware that the risk of wheel damage increases when the tyre air pressure is too high or too low.<br />
* When the tyre air pressure is too high, the tyre will be too stiff, having the following consequences:<br />
*# It will translate most (if not all) of the vibrations and shock loads to the wheel (and further on to suspension and steering components, the rest of the vehicle, up to your kidneys and teeth).<br />
*# It will not deform gently around a rough or sharp object (rough gravel, rocks, etc.) instead "attacking" it stiffly head on.<br />
*#* In such a clash, the tyre usually loses by having a piece of its tread torn off.<br />
* "Too high" tyre air pressure generally means higher than factory-recommended on-road tyre pressures.<br />
** The only reason to ever use too high tyre air pressures is if you want to cure your stone kidney disease. <br />
<br />
<br />
* When the tyre air pressure is too low, there is not enough air quantity inside to handle/cushion the '''sudden''' shock loads.<br />
** This leaves the wheel as the "first point of impact".<br />
* The "suddeness" of the shock load directly depends on the velocity of the vehicle.<br />
** Therefore, driving with partially deflated tyres is not a problem, as long as vehicle's speed is correspondingly reduced according to the terrain conditions.<br />
*** The lower the pressure, the slower the speed!<br />
* Read the chapter [[#Tyre pressures|"Tyre pressures"]] for more information on tyre air pressures.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre damages and repairs ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres are the most vulnerable part of a vehicle, and they definitely endure the most harshness when the vehicle is driven in all-terrain conditions.<br />
* To appreciate the role and life of your tyres, imagine or try running bare-footed on the same terrain where you drive on.<br />
* Tyres can sustain several types of damage, and not every type is instantly noticeable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Educate yourself more about tyre punctures and repairs through [https://rma.org/sites/default/files/prp_wallchart1111_0.pdf '''this article'''] from USA's Rubber Manufacturer Association and through [https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-repair '''this article and video'''] from the international Tire Industry Association.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Types of tyre damages and repairs ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Tread puncture ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* This is the most well known and classic tyre damage.<br />
* Tread surface, in the context of tread puncture repair, is considered to be the central 3/4s of the side of the tyre which regularly contacts the ground.<br />
** The remaining outer sections of the ground contact area are called "shoulder area".<br />
* For the predominant radial tyres, general tyre industry convention is that this shoulder area falls in the category of "tyre sidewall" considering puncture repair options (see below).<br />
* A tread puncture can happen either as a (more or less) round pierce (for example a nail), or as a cut (for example a large piece of glass).<br />
* Most tread punctures (if not overly large) can be successfully and permanently repaired by professionals in tyre repair workshops.<br />
<br />
<br />
* For a tread puncture repair to be proper and permanent, the tyre '''must''' be demounted from the wheel first, and the repair performed from the '''inside''' of the tyre.<br />
* The best type of a tread puncture repair is when two methods are combined - a plug (stem) and a patch.<br />
** Both of those repair methods should be performed from the inside of the tyre.<br />
* Applying just a plug or just a patch is not proper, but many "professional" tyre servicemen are lazy and just do one of the two.<br />
** Persuade them to use both (first plug, then patch)!<br />
*** If talking does not work, then money usually does.<br />
* A plug repair is when the punctured hole or cut is drilled through to clean it, and then a rubber strip (+ a glue cure) is inserted into the hole.<br />
* A patch repair is when a piece of rubber is glued onto the surface, and then "cooked" for a while to vulcanize (fuse) with the surface on which it is applied.<br />
<br />
<br />
* "Plug type" DIY tyre repair kits exist from infinite number of manufacturers, and they cost only a few coins.<br />
** They are handy to carry in the trunk, as they can be used for DIY "on the field" repair of tyre tread punctures.<br />
* However, using '''just''' a plug repair from the '''outside''' of the tyre (without demounting it from the wheel first) should be done only in an emergency when no other options are available.<br />
** It should be considered as a temporary measure until you get a first proper opportunity to have the tyre demounted, the old (temporary) plug drilled out, and the tyre properly repaired as described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using (recently) much advertized aerosol/liquid/gel tyre filler solutions is '''highly discouraged'''!<br />
* Those solutions are typically held in pressurized cans, which you connect to the tyre inflation valve and then spray the aerosol/liquid/gel inside the tyre.<br />
** The solution then spreads through the tyre and (in theory) plugs the puncture while you are pumping the tyre up.<br />
* Even if this succeeds, it is strictly a temporary measure just to get you out of the situation.<br />
* In most cases, tyres which have been treated with these liquid fillers can not be properly repaired afterwards.<br />
** Reason: The liquid has hardened all throughout the inside of the tyre and made a complete mess, especially regarding balancing.<br />
*** Cleaning all the hardened aerosol/liquid/gel out requires '''a lot''' of labor effort and cost.<br />
**** The cost of cleaning is usually more than half the value of a new tyre.<br />
* This renders your "temporarily repaired" tyre practically '''permanently ruined'''.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall puncture ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Sidewall puncture is the nastiest type of tyre damage.<br />
** Unfortunately, the risk of sidewall punctures is generally the highest when performing all terrain driving.<br />
* A sidewall puncture can happen either as a more or less round pierce (for example a nail), but much more often as a cut (for example a piece of a tree branch sticking out from the ground).<br />
* For the predominant radial tyres, general tyre industry convention is that '''any''' damage in the sidewall area '''can not''' be successfully repaired.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=640 heights=360 class=center caption="Examples of tyre sidewall punctures"><br />
Tyre sidewall damage - A01.jpg|Multiple damages in one picture<br />
Tyre sidewall damage - B01.jpg|A relatively small but terminal damage<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* However, there are tyre repair workshops which can repair sidewall damage on radial tyres, even in extreme damage cases.<br />
** Those are typically the same workshops which produce remoulded (retreaded) tyres, since the process of repairing a tyre sidewall is in some aspects similar to retreading a tyre.<br />
* The method of repairing tyre "shoulders" and sidewalls is called "section repair".<br />
** In short, the section repair consists of cutting out the damaged area, filling it with special raw rubber, then applying special (reinforced) patches from the inside, together with some special glues, and cooking (vulcanizing) all that with the sidewall for extended period of time, in a very similar process as when retreading a tyre.<br />
** The reinforced patches contain nets of some strong material (kevlar, titanium, etc. or hairs from Arabian horse tails) and require special raw rubber made from frog balls or from salmon sperm, with specially tailored glue made from bird milk or whatever to properly fuse with the tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Sidewall section repairs are typically applied to heavy duty tyres which are used on tractors, industrial machines and heavy-duty trucks which work in forestry, construction sites, excavation sites etc.<br />
* Sidewall section repairs have proven to be successful on much smaller and lighter tyres used on all-terrain vehicles.<br />
** However, it is (in most cases) highly discouraged to use such tyres on the road - restrict to using them '''off road only'''!<br />
** If you have to venture out on the road, keep the speed '''under''' cca '''40-50 km/h''' ('''25-30 mph''')!<br />
<br />
<br />
* General observation of tyre repair workshops (which perform these kinds of repairs) is that AT class and MT class all terrain tyres are much better suited to performing this kind of sidewall puncture repair than ordinary limousine road tyres.<br />
** The reason is that AT class and especially MT class tyres have certain degree of robustness and reinforcements as a part of their overall construction (aiding the infusion of the patch), while ordinary limousine road tyres have barely anything to "cling on to".<br />
<br />
<br />
* If a tyre sidewall repair fails later on, it usually fails suddenly (instantly) and catastrophically.<br />
** You '''do not''' want that to happen while your velocity is high!<br />
* If a tyre sidewall repair fails later on in a tricky off roading situation (undulated terrain, steep or sloped terrain, rocks, mud, shit, etc.) raising the vehicle to replace the wheel might turn into a grand project on itself.<br />
** "High lift" jacks are typically used to raise the vehicle in these difficult conditions, but Jimny 3 '''des not''' have suitable lifting points below the factory front and rear bumpers, and barely suitable ones on the sides!<br />
*** Suitability of Jimny 1, 2 and 4 for lifting with a high lift jack is unknown - add info here if you know something!<br />
<br />
<br />
Educate yourself more about tyre section repairs through [http://www.techtirerepairs.com/content/documents/RM-9---Radial-Truck-Sidewall-Repair-w-Mult-Cable-Damage-1.pdf this] and [http://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311921/knowing-what-not-to-repair this] article.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall bulge ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A bulge usually occurs on a tyre's sidewall.<br />
* The cause of a bulge can either be:<br />
** A rather heavy sudden shock load (for example hitting a street curb or a big pothole at speed);<br />
** A deficiency in the tyre itself (very hard to prove);<br />
* A bulge on a tyre means that its internal structure (cords, plies, etc.) has disintegrated in that section of the tyre.<br />
* Bulges are relatively hard to spot.<br />
** Reason: they do not leak air and you usually have to take a good look at the tyre to notice them, especially if the bulge is on the side of the tyre which faces vehicle's underbody.<br />
* Bulges are one of the main reasons why you should occasionally visually inspect all your tyres from both sides.<br />
* A bulge, if it's sufficiently large, can disturb wheel's balance.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bulges are much more dangerous than they appear!<br />
** They usually don't affect the operation of the tyre, and no air leaks through them.<br />
*** Because of this, even when they get noticed, they are usually not taken that seriously;<br />
**** ''"The tyre still serves just fine, doesn't it?"'';<br />
* However, when a bulge finally fails, it usually bursts suddenly and catastrophically!<br />
** You do not want that to happen to you when the vehicle's velocity is high!<br />
* Bulges usually fail at high speeds or at a next rough impact (street curbs, big potholes, hard gravel, etc.).<br />
** When a bulge fails on a front tyre at high speed, you'll suddenly get into a wrestling match with your steering wheel.<br />
** When a bulge fails on a rear tyre at high speed, you'll most probably get a spectacular theatrical movie-style rollover, with you in the best seat to experience it in full HD vision with surround 3D sound.<br />
<br />
<br />
* If the size of the bulge is quite small (approximately like a button on a shirt or a small coin), it can usually be treated so it does not expand and get worse from then on.<br />
** Such a tyre should be usable, but vehicle's speed should be limited to approximately '''80 km/h''' ('''45 mph''') just to be safe!<br />
* However, if the bulge is relatively large (like half of a finger or larger), it's a "FUBAR" case ("f**** up beyond repair").<br />
** Such a tyre '''should''' be discarded, or vehicle's speed kept under '''40-50 km/h''' ('''25-30 mph'''), while being prepared for the burst at any time!<br />
* It is best to consult a well reputed tyre repair specialist to assess your own case.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall indentation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A tyre might have a "vertical" indentation in a its sidewall (vertical means that the indentation runs orthogonally across the sidewall, from the bead to the tread of the tyre).<br />
* If the indentation is present from when the tyre was new (ever since it was mounted on the wheel and inflated for the first time), then it is typically a "feature".<br />
** It is a place where the internal plies and the cords of the sidewall overlap.<br />
** In that case, there is nothing to worry about, as such an indentation is not a weak spot in tyre's construction.<br />
* However, if you notice an indentation in the sidewall of your tyre in mid-use, and you are not certain if it was there since the tyre was new, you should have the tyre inspected by a reputable tyre repair specialist, just to be safe.<br />
<br />
{{note|Reference for the explanation of the nature of indentations in tyre's sidewall is [http://www.continental-tyres.co.za/car/technology/tyre-knowledge/lex-1-4 this article on Continental's web site].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cuts ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Chips ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disintegration ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cracking ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=9997
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T09:53:10Z
<p>Bosanek: Minor phrase corrections</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-nut set instead of a five-nut set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-nut set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-nut set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Tyre_selection_and_usage_-_best_practices&diff=9996
Tyre selection and usage - best practices
2023-02-09T09:50:18Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a new chapter on wheel theft</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* One of the most common questions about improving vehicle's all-terrain performance and endurance is "what is the most effective modification to apply to my vehicle?".<br />
** Well, using proper tyres, and using them properly, is arguably the most effective vehicle "mod" for all-terrain use!<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|"Most effective" can generally mean in the context of cost, performance, simplicity or endurance.<br>Using '''proper''' tyres '''properly''' can be the most effective "mod" in all of those ways!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overview of the topics covered by this document ===<br />
<br />
<br />
# Choosing a proper tyre type for the desired usage;<br />
# Choosing a tyre size (with various factors);<br />
# List of various tyre models with remarks;<br />
# Best practices on tyre usage (wheel rotation, wheel balancing, air pressures, rim and tyre repairs);<br />
# Use of tyre chains for snow and mud conditions;<br />
# Special situations and combinations;<br />
<br />
<br />
== General remarks ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, some basic remarks about using tyres on four wheel drive vehicles. Each remark is explained in detail in various chapters of this article.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Constraints on tyre combinations ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Inherent restriction of most four wheel drive transmission systems (all Jimny's included) is that the vehicle has to use all four tyres of the same profile (size).<br />
** Furthermore, all four tyres should be the same model and have a very similar tread depth.<br />
*** Reason: Even small differences between rotational friction and wheel circumference among wheels can damage the 4WD transmission in the long term.<br />
* These restrictions limit the combinations when choosing (buying) tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== The spare (5th) tyre ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The stated restrictions also apply to the spare (5th) tyre, which must not be overlooked!<br />
** The spare wheel and tyre should be actively used in a 5-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
* Topic of spare tyre utilization has its own dedicated sub-chapter: [[#Spare wheel and tyre usage|Spare wheel and tyre usage]].<br />
* People who venture into serious expeditions and overland travels usually use '''six''' identical wheels and tyres in a six-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre (air) pressures ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Frequent checking (and adjusting) of tyre air pressures is much more important for all-terrain use than for ordinary on-road use.<br />
** Reason: tyre pressures significantly affect all-terrain traction as well as the risk of tyre damage.<br />
*** Tyres get hotter with low pressures, for example.<br />
* The topic of tyre air pressures has its own dedicated sub-chapter: [[#Tyre air pressures|Tyre air pressures]].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Wheel (dis)balancing ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Wheel (dis)balancing is a much more prominent issue for all-terrain use.<br />
** This is especially important for Jimnys, as all Jimny generations are notorious for developing a [[Death Wobble|"death wobble"]] issue.<br />
*** It is a genetic trait derived from their short wheelbase and solid (rigid) front axle suspension design.<br />
* See the sub-chapter [[#Wheel balancing|"Wheel balancing"]] for more details.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Wheel (mis)alignment ===<br />
<br />
* If wheels are not properly aligned, the usual consequence is excessive and uneven tyre wear.<br />
** Another significant consequence is improper steering.<br />
* Read the chapter '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel alignment|Wheel alignment]]''' in the Death Wobble wiki article for some details about the process of properly aligning the wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre profiles ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain use, '''higher profile''' tyres are always preferred against '''lower profile tyres'''.<br />
** Reasons:<br />
**# Higher profile tyres cushion the ride better on all-terrain both for the vehicle and for the passengers,<br />
**# They decrease the chance of rim damage, <br />
**# They allow better air pressure management.<br />
* The only disadvantage of "tall" tyres is worse performance when the vehicle corners fast in a bend.<br />
** However, it is insensible anyway to do so in a high, narrow, wobbly, jumpy, twitchy vehicle.<br />
* Therefore, putting oversized rims with thin tyres on a 4WD vehicle is like putting ballet shoes on a village farmer.<br />
<br />
<br />
* A "higher profile" means a "taller" tyre (taller tyre sidewall).<br />
* The '''second''' number in tyre's sizing specification determines its "tallness" as a percentage of its width.<br />
** An example: for a <font face="courier">205 / '''70''' / R15</font> tyre, the second number says that its sidewall height is <font face="courier">205 mm * '''0,7''' = 143,5 mm</font>.<br />
* Sometimes a narrower tyre with a higher second number is actually taller than a wider tyre with a lower second number!<br />
** An example: <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> is taller than <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> (<font face="courier">156 mm</font> sidewall height vs <font face="courier">143,5 mm</font> sidewall height).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre load index and velocity index ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* These two tyre specifications are often overlooked, as the sizing specification is getting all the attention.<br />
* Tyre load carrying capacity and maximum vehicle velocity specifications are always written just after the sizing specification.<br />
** For example: <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''96S'''</font>.<br />
*** '''96''' is the load carrying capacity index, while '''S''' is the maximum velocity index.<br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Tyre load capacity index classification<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
! Load<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>load<br>[kg]<br />
|-<br />
| 70<br />
| 335<br />
| 89<br />
| 580<br />
| 108<br />
| 1000<br />
|-<br />
| 71<br />
| 345<br />
| 90<br />
| 600<br />
| 109<br />
| 1030<br />
|-<br />
| 72<br />
| 355<br />
| 91<br />
| 615<br />
| 110<br />
| 1060<br />
|-<br />
| 73<br />
| 365<br />
| 92<br />
| 630<br />
| 111<br />
| 1090<br />
|-<br />
| 74<br />
| 375<br />
| 93<br />
| 650<br />
| 112<br />
| 1120<br />
|-<br />
| 75<br />
| 387<br />
| 94<br />
| 670<br />
| 113<br />
| 1150<br />
|-<br />
| 76<br />
| 400<br />
| 95<br />
| 690<br />
| 114<br />
| 1180<br />
|-<br />
| 77<br />
| 412<br />
| 96<br />
| 710<br />
| 115<br />
| 1215<br />
|-<br />
| 78<br />
| 425<br />
| 97<br />
| 730<br />
| 116<br />
| 1250<br />
|-<br />
| 79<br />
| 437<br />
| 98<br />
| 750<br />
| 117<br />
| 1285<br />
|-<br />
| 80<br />
| 450<br />
| 99<br />
| 775<br />
| 118<br />
| 1320<br />
|-<br />
| 81<br />
| 462<br />
| 100<br />
| 800<br />
| 119<br />
| 1360<br />
|-<br />
| 82<br />
| 475<br />
| 101<br />
| 825<br />
| 120<br />
| 1400<br />
|-<br />
| 83<br />
| 487<br />
| 102<br />
| 850<br />
| 121<br />
| 1450<br />
|-<br />
| 84<br />
| 500<br />
| 103<br />
| 875<br />
| 122<br />
| 1500<br />
|-<br />
| 85<br />
| 515<br />
| 104<br />
| 900<br />
| 123<br />
| 1550<br />
|-<br />
| 86<br />
| 530<br />
| 105<br />
| 925<br />
| 124<br />
| 1600<br />
|-<br />
| 87<br />
| 545<br />
| 106<br />
| 950<br />
| 125<br />
| 1650<br />
|-<br />
| 88<br />
| 560<br />
| 107<br />
| 975<br />
| 126<br />
| 1700<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Tyre velocity index classification<br />
! Velocity<br>index<br />
! Maximum<br>velocity<br>[km/h]<br />
|-<br />
| N<br />
| 120<br />
|-<br />
| M<br />
| 130<br />
|-<br />
| N<br />
| 140<br />
|-<br />
| P<br />
| 150<br />
|-<br />
| Q<br />
| 160<br />
|-<br />
| R<br />
| 170<br />
|-<br />
| S<br />
| 180<br />
|-<br />
| T<br />
| 190<br />
|-<br />
| U<br />
| 200<br />
|-<br />
| H<br />
| 210<br />
|-<br />
| V<br />
| 240<br />
|-<br />
| W<br />
| 270<br />
|-<br />
| Y<br />
| 300<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
* Maximum tyre velocity is not really important for most 4WD vehicle applications, as such vehicles are rarely driven faster than 130 km/h, and most tyres (''except many MT tyres and retreaded tyres!'') usually sustain significantly higher velocities.<br />
** This means that most tyres on the market will have sufficient velocity rating for typical use on a 4WD vehicle.<br />
*** However, if you intend to drive your vehicle on motorway speeds, you should check the velocity rating on AT tyres and especially on MT tyres and retreaded tyres that you are considering to purchase (or already got on the vehicle). <br />
<br />
<br />
* Maximum tyre load rating deserves additional consideration, because using a tyre with significantly higher load rating than factory specified for a vehicle can introduce several negative side effects, while still being perfectly legal and technically acceptable.<br />
* Typical examples of tyres with significantly higher load bearing capacity than "ordinary" tyres of the same size are many '''C''' (Cargo / Commercial), '''LT''' (Light Truck), '''XL''' (eXtra Load) and '''RF''' (ReinForced) tyres.<br />
** Read the corresponding chapter on those tyre types further down below for more info about consequences of using tyres with significantly higher load bearing capacity than specified by the vehicle manufacturer.<br />
* Note: Maximum load rating of a tyre means just that - load above which it would burst, disintegrate and get completely destroyed due to excessive force which it has to handle. In everyday use, a tyre should never bear more than 50-70% of that load.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Choosing a proper tyre type for the desired usage ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Tyre designs for passenger and all terrain / light truck vehicles can be (among other ways) designed and built for:<br />
* Regular "on road" use (the vast majority of tyre models);<br />
* All-terrain use (to a certain extent);<br />
<br />
<br />
* The difference between those two design approaches is not just in the tread pattern (traction capability).<br />
* Another equally important aspect is the robustness of tyre's body (resistance to various types of trauma, which '''regularly''' occurs off the asphalt).<br />
** This is generally given dedicated design attention for all-terrain tyres (based on tyre's exploitation expectancy).<br />
** For ordinary road tyres, robustness is barely considered on itself.<br />
* Also, tyre's adaptability to different weather conditions is also sometimes given more design thought when designing all-terrain tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is no official standard to differentiate various kinds of all-terrain tyre designs.<br />
<br />
There are three "industry categories" of all terrain tyre designs, based on loose practical usage classifications (from "worse" to "best"):<br />
# HT - "Highway Terrain"<br />
# AT - "All Terrain"<br />
# MT - "Mud Terrain"<br />
<br />
<br />
Tyre manufacturers usually use this classification to position their all-terrain tyre models in their marketing catalogue.<br />
<br />
* HT tyres generally have the best on-road performance and worst off-road performance of all three categories.<br />
* MT tyres generally have the opposite performance characteristics.<br />
* AT tyres are generally in the middle - being good but not great for both.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since these are loose classifications, there are "weaker" and "stronger" tyre models in each category.<br />
** Therefore, each tyre model should be precisely evaluated on its own.<br />
*** For example, Dunlop Grandtrek AT20 could be classified either as a "mild AT tyre", or as an "extreme HT tyre" :).<br />
*** Another example is Uniroyal Laredo HD/T, which could be classified either as a "mild MT tyre" or as an "extreme AT tyre".<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some tyre models also exist in one or more of the following "heavy load" editions:<br />
** C (Commercial / Cargo);<br />
** LT (Light Truck);<br />
** XL ("eXtra Load);<br />
** RF (ReinForced);<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are '''not''' suitable for vehicles which are not heavily loaded on a regular basis.<br />
* Read more about tyres for heavy loads in the corresponding subchapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
* A special case are retreaded (remoulded, "protect") tyres.<br />
** Read more about them in the corresponding subchapter below.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== HT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Highway terrain tyres are generally meant to be used predominantly on road, with only slight & light off road excursions (dirt roads, possibly rougher gravel at most, etc.).<br />
* The overall tread design and depth of HT tyres is generally quite similar to ordinary road tyres.<br />
** That means that HT tyres generally have equally proficient on-road performance and endurance even for sharp or very fast driving (and similar fuel economy).<br />
** That also means that HT tyres exhibit almost equally bad all-terrain performance as ordinary road tyres.<br />
* However, having the "terrain" part in their name, HT tyres should be slightly more robust than ordinary road tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For (almost) always on-road driven all terrain vehicles, HT tyres can be an optimal choice if the vehicles are driven sharply or at high speeds.<br />
* HT-class tyres are always recommended over ordinary on-road tyres for two reasons:<br />
*# They should be more robust;<br />
*# They at least formally "suit" the all-terrain image of the host vehicle;<br />
* However, AT tyres are definitely a better choice if proper all terrain driving is even occasionally performed, and/or if the vehicle is not driven fast or sharply.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== AT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All terrain tyres are generally meant to be used in mixed on-road and all terrain conditions (anywhere between 30% and 70% of time for either).<br />
* AT tyres usually have significantly rougher (and a bit deeper) tread design compared to HT and ordinary road tyres.<br />
* AT tyres are a performance compromise which is usually hard to achieve.<br />
* AT tyres are generally good on-road except for sharp or very fast driving, and generally good off-road except for boggy and/or harsh conditions (deep mud, deep snow, sharp rocks, river crossings ...).<br />
* AT tyres are usually significantly more robust than ordinary road tyres.<br />
* AT tyres should slightly impact fuel economy.<br />
* AT tyres can be a challenge to balance properly.<br />
* Many AT tyres are "all season", which further adds to their "all terrain" value.<br />
** For example, mountaineers can encounter ice and snow even as late as in June and as early as in September.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain vehicles which are used for everything - commuting, intercity travel, and various all terrain conditions, AT tyres are the solution.<br />
* AT-class tyres should not present a jeopardy on the road, and they should be a trusted companion off the road, in the sense of traction and in the sense of reliability.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== MT tyre class ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Main traits ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Mud terrain tyres (also called "Maximum Traction") are generally meant to be used predominantly off road, with only slight easy-going on-road excursions.<br />
* MT tyres usually have very deep and striking ("tractor looking") tread and sidewall appearance, and very high robustness capability through various reinforcements.<br />
* MT tyres excel in boggy and/or harsh conditions (deep mud, deep snow, sharp rocks, tree roots, river crossings, etc.) and offer the best protection against punctures, cuts and chipping.<br />
* However, MT tyres are generally noisy on the road, wear faster and present a real jeopardy if not driven slowly and carefully on a wet road and especially on packed snow or ice.<br />
* Also, MT tyres usually significantly affect fuel economy.<br />
* Due to their coarse construction, MT tyres can be very hard or impossible to balance properly.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all-terrain vehicles which rarely touch the asphalt and are primarily used on rough terrain, MT tyres should be the weapon of choice.<br />
* However, MT-class tyres can be a jeopardy on regular road surfaces and they wear out faster and louder on road.<br />
* Also, if not balanced entirely, MT-class tyres will cause issues on road.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyres for heavy loads (C, LT, XL, RF, etc.) ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Fast info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Quick advice for lazy readers:<br />
* Avoid using tyres for heavy loads on a Jimny!<br />
** Typical designations: C - "commercial" / "cargo", LT - "light truck", XL - "extra load", RF - "reinforced".<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Detailed info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Some tyre models also exist in a "C" ("commercial" / "cargo"), an LT ("light truck"), an XL ("extra load") and/or in an RF ("reinforced") edition (or a specific tyre model is exclusively built as such).<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are usually designed to bear significantly heavier loads for their size compared to "normal load" tyres of the same size.<br />
** The tread pattern of a C, LT, XL or RF tyre edition is usually identical or very similar to a "normal" tyre edition of the same tyre model.<br />
* C, LT, XL and RF tyres are meant to be used on vans, pick-up trucks and other vehicles which typically transport quite heavy loads and/or tow heavy trailers, as well as on those trailers.<br />
* Don't get mislead by the "light" attribute in the "LT" designation.<br />
** The "light" attribute stands in reference to '''heavy''' trucks.<br />
*** A vehicle with loaded weight of several tonnes is indeed ''light'' in comparison with a heavy truck which has a loaded weight of several dozen tonnes!<br />
* Beware that sometimes a certain tyre model might be offered in a "heavy load" edition as well, without having any of those C, LT, XL, RF or other special markers.<br />
** The only certain way to tell is to always check the load index which is printed on tyre's sidewall.<br />
*** Read the chapter on tyre load and velocity index ratings for details.<br />
<br />
<br />
* C tyres can usually be distinguished by having a "C" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''C'''</font><br />
* LT tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "LT" prefix before the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">'''LT''' 205 / 70 / R15</font><br />
* XL tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "XL" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''XL'''</font><br />
* RF tyres can usually be distinguished by having an "RF" suffix after the diameter number in their marking naming.<br />
** Example: <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15 '''RF'''</font><br />
* Another way to identify a C, LT, XL and RF tyres is to compare their load rating with typical load ratings of other tyre models of the same size.<br />
** If its load rating is more than a couple rating numbers higher than most other tyre models in the same size, than it's probably a C, LT, XL or RF tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
Typical difference in tyre's load rating for Jimny 3's stock size of <font face="Courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> is:<br />
# A "normal load" tyre usually has <font face="Courier">"96"-"97"</font> (<font face="Courier">730-750 kg</font>) load rating;<br />
# C, LT, XL and RF tyres usually has <font face="Courier">"105"-"107"</font> (<font face="Courier">930-980 kg</font>) load rating;<br />
#* This is a quite significant '''30%''' increase in load bearing capability.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Advantages of tyres for heavy loads ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For regularly heavily loaded vehicles which are designed to bear that load, "heavy load" tyres are the tool of choice.<br />
* They have significantly stronger sidewalls and harder tread material to withstand heavy forces when rolling under heavy load.<br />
** Therefore, they should theoretically be able to withstand more abuse off road than ordinary on-road limousine tyres.<br />
** Due to harder tread material, they usually wear a lot slower when used on a very light vehicle which never loads them close to their designed load.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disadvantages of tyres for heavy loads ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Significantly more expensive than "normal load" tyres.<br />
** ''Well, you are probably making some money transporting all that heavy load, so a tyre manufacturer should also get a cut of the profit!''<br />
* If a vehicle is not heavily loaded, these tyres usually provide a much stiffer and harsher ride.<br />
** Reason is that their sidewalls are "too strong" and they almost don't flex at all when on light load, thus providing no cushioning for vehicle's suspension.<br />
** Harsher ride increases the wear of vehicle's suspension and other vibration-prone elements (as all of those have to "soak" most of the vibrations instead of the tyres).<br />
** A harsher ride also increases the wear of your teeth fillings.<br />
* Also, the theoretical advantage of better robustness off road of a "heavy load" tyre compared to an ordinary limousine tyre is quickly lost when an on-road "heavy load" tyre is compared with a "normal load" HT tyre or especially a "normal load" AT tyre.<br />
** Reason: many HT and especially AT tyres have sidewall puncture robustness built-in as a design, without making the sidewall too stiff.<br />
** Also, the compound (material) of the tread of HT and especially AT tyres is built to better withstand wear of harsh terrain (chips, cuts, bruises, etc.).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All Jimny generations are very light vehicles, especially in regards to the size of the tyres which they use.<br />
** The best proof of their relative lightness compared to the relatively large tyres which they use is the fact that factory on-road tyre pressures for Jimnys 3 are '''only''' about 1,7 bar per tyre.<br />
*** Additional explanation: The lighter the load on a tyre, the less air pressure inside is needed to bear that load properly.<br />
* Also, Jimny 3's load carrying capacity is only around 300 kg and Jimny 4's load carrying capacity is '''XXX''' kg.<br />
** This means that with four adult passengers and their baggage, the vehicle is already near the limit of its load carrying capacity.<br />
* Therefore, using "heavy load" tyres on a Jimny is (to say the least) ''superfluous'' and to say the most, ''idiotic'' (depending on tyre model).<br />
** The only good reason to use "heavy load" tyres on a Jimny is try to break some large kidney stones or gale bladder stones.<br />
** "Heavy load" tyres (depending on a model) will usually be so stiff on a Jimny that even significant (30-40%) pressure reduction to 1,1-1,2 bar will not provide significant improvement in vibration damping.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Forum user Bosanek has experienced all this while using C tyres in practice on a friend's Jimny 3.<br />
** Those tyres had load rating of 107 compared to Jimny's stock rating of 96 - more than 35% increase!<br />
** The friend bought C tyres by mistakenly believing that "more load bearing capacity" means better durability and robustness off road.<br />
** What he got in practice is super stiff ride, much more wear of suspension components and even squeaky interior body panels after some time.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Retreaded (remoulded, "protect") tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Fast info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
Quick advice for lazy readers:<br />
* Do '''not''' use retreaded tyres on any vehicle, except if it's an off-roading toy!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Detailed info ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A retreaded tyre is a recycled / revived tyre.<br />
** It is a previously used and worn out tyre, which had its worn tread surface grinded off, and a new tread (which can have completely different pattern from the old one) glued on.<br />
** The material of the new tread is specific to the retreading "factory".<br />
* Therefore, retreaded tyres are essentially "tyre zombies".<br />
** That means they are old, worn tyre carcasses which have been restitched and brought back to life like Frankenstein.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes on tread patterns:<br />
* Retreaded tyres are produced in all kinds of editions and flavors, with their treads typically mimicking a well known brand name tread pattern.<br />
** They can mimic any tread pattern, either of slick and smooth road tyres, summer or winter tread designs, as well as heavy-duty AT, MT or even more extreme agricultural and industrial tread patterns.<br />
* They can also be made with a custom tread design of any appearance that you can imagine.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Advantages of retreaded tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* They are quite cheap (usually cheaper than any brand name tyre).<br />
* They are ecological (recycled material).<br />
* There is a wide and colorful choice of tread patterns, especially the extreme traction ones. <br />
<br />
<br />
But there is a cost to pay. Read on.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disadvantages of retreaded tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bear in mind - if a tread appears the same like from a brand name tyre model, it does not mean that the materials and compositions of the tread are the same (affecting grip, wear rate, etc.).<br />
* Also, you hardly ever know which actual tyres were used for resurrection.<br />
** For all-terrain duty, the strength and robustness of tyre's sidewalls are equally important as the tread pattern.<br />
* There are also horror stories of retreaded tyres failing catastrophically during high speed driving.<br />
** The tread layer actually glues off from the tyre carcass.<br />
*** The consequences don't look pretty from any angle of view.<br />
* In some countries, an aggressive tread remoulded tyre could render an environmental fine in some back-country roads. <br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|<br>Beware that all Jimny generations (as most vehicles with solid front axles) are highly susceptible to developing a [[Death Wobble|"death wobble"]] issue produced by disbalance or play in their front suspension.<br>Improper wheel balance is highly likely to trigger it.<br>Retreaded tyres (even those with ordinary on-road treads) are notorious for being hard or impossible to balance.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-1RXKtrBykdw7V9X1WX3jLXpSdygKb8ji3y1WJZhR0g/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which summarises all arguments FOR and AGAINST using retreaded tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre tread symmetry and directionality ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The previous chapter dealt with tyre construction and tread pattern, primarily regarding robustness and heavy-duty performance.<br />
* This chapter deals with tyre tread layout, which is a common parameter of any tyre construction.<br />
* The issue of tread layouts is important for all-terrain use.<br />
** Reason: some layouts severely restrict tyre's usage flexibility for all-terrain use.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The tread design of each tyre has two important pattern layouts:'''<br />
* Symmetricity - it can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical;<br />
* Directionality - it can be either "uni-directional" (also called just "directional") or "bi-directional" (also called "non-directional");<br />
<br />
<br />
These two pattern layouts directly determine / constraint in which orientations and positions a certain tyre can be used on a vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Therefore, there are four possible tread layouts:'''<br />
# Symmetric bi/non-directional tread<br />
# Asymmetric bi/non-directional tread<br />
# Symmetric (uni)directional tread<br />
# Asymmetric (uni)directional tread<br />
<br />
<br />
The pelicularities of each layout will be discussed below.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Symmetric bi/non-directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* This has historically been the most common tyre tread pattern layout, but it's use is steadily decreasing in the 21st century.<br />
* It is still the most common layout for HT/AT/MT tyres.<br />
* No matter how the tyre is turned around or mounted, the tread looks just the same every time.<br />
* Therefore, this layout imposes '''no''' restrictions on how the tyre needs to be oriented when being mounted on a wheel, nor on which sides of the vehicle the tyre+wheel assembly can be used afterwards.<br />
* In other words, this layout provides complete flexibility regarding orientations when mounting tyres on wheels '''and''' when mounting the tyre+wheel assembly on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with symmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Hankook Optimo H724 - representative image.jpg|Hankook Optimo H724<br />
Tyre Bridgestone Potenza RE92 - representative image.jpg|Bridgestone Potenza RE92<br />
Tyre Bridgestone Turanza AR10 - representative image.jpg|Bridgestone Turanza AR10<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with symmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Yokohama-Geolandar-HT-S - representative image.jpg|Yokohama-Geolandar-HT-S<br />
Tyre General Grabber AT3 - representative image.jpg|General Grabber AT3<br />
Tyre Goodyear Wrangler AT-SA - representative image.jpg|Goodyear Wrangler AT-SA<br />
Tyre Falken Wildpeak WP AT01 - representative image.jpg|Falken Wildpeak WP AT01<br />
Tyre Kumho Road Venture MT51 - representative image.jpg|Kumho Road Venture MT51<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Asymmetric bi/non-directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When someone says or writes just "asymmetric tread", they usually refer to this layout, because most asymmetric treads are bi/non-directional.<br />
** However, there are notable exceptions (read below), so explicit mentioning of tread's directionality too is always desired.<br />
* When a tread is asymmetric, it means that the left and right portion of the tread are different when compared to one another.<br />
** The reason is that one side is optimized for one scenario (for example to handle cornering forces) and the other side for another scenario (for example for water ejection to evade "aquaplanning").<br />
* This means that asymmetric tread layouts generally provide more versatility and better optimization of available tyre tread surface than "plain" symmetric treads.<br />
* The "left" and "right" portion of the tread are usually designed for (and referred as) being the "inner" and "outer" side of the tread/tyre (when it is mounted on a vehicle).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Pirelli P-Zero System Asimmetrico.jpg|Pirelli P-Zero System Asimmetrico<br />
Tyre Continental WinterExtremeContact - representative image.jpg|Continental WinterExtremeContact<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Maxxis Escapade CUV - representative image.jpg|Maxxis Escapade CUV<br />
Tyre Michelin Latitude Cross - representative image.jpg|Michelin Latitude Cross<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres with asymmetric bi/non-directional treads typically have an "Inside" and/or "Outside" inscriptions / markings on their sidewalls, indicating proper orientation when mounting them on a wheel.<br />
** Therefore, it is very important to always mount an asymmetric bi/non-directional tyre on a wheel in proper orientation.<br />
*** This means that the "outside" side of the tyre should be on the outer side of the wheel.<br />
* After that, such a tyre+wheel assembly can be used on any side of the vehicle, because the "outside" side of the tyre will always be ... well, on the outer side of the wheel.<br />
* In other words, this layout just requires simple caution to properly orientate a tyre when mounting it on a wheel, and after that it provides complete flexibility regarding positions and orientations when mounting the tyre+wheel assembly on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Symmetric (uni)directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When someone says or writes just "(uni)directional tread", they usually refer to this layout, because most (uni)directional treads are symmetric.<br />
* When a tread is (uni)directional, it means that its pattern is designed and optimized to do its work for just one tyre rolling direction.<br />
* Concentrating the design effort on only one direction of motion enables better optimization of the tread performance like directional stability, grip, "aquaplanning", wear rate, etc.<br />
* The appearance of (uni)directional treads usually vaguely or strikingly resembles a "V" shape.<br />
* Most winter tyres have this tread layout, because it enables significant optimization of tread performance for very slippery or wet conditions - where every bit of additional grip can make a difference.<br />
* This tread layout can also be encountered on many summer and all-season tyres as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of ordinary road tyres with symmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 - representative image.jpg|Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110<br />
Tyre Continental WinterContact TS800 - representative image.jpg|Continental WinterContact TS800<br />
Tyre Fulda Kristall Control HP2 - representative image.jpg|Fulda Kristall Control HP2<br />
Tyre Goodyear UltraGrip plus SUV - representative image.jpg|Goodyear UltraGrip plus SUV<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of HT/AT/MT tyres with symmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Kumho Road Venture MT KL71 - representative image.jpg|Kumho Road Venture MT KL71<br />
Tyre Yokohama Geolandar MT - representative image.jpg|Yokohama Geolandar MT<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* (Uni)directional symmetrical tyres typically have a "Rotation" inscription / marking on their sidewalls combined with some directional marking (usually an embossed arrow shape).<br />
** This marking directly determines in which orientation a tyre needs to be mounted on a wheel, depending on which side of the vehicle will the wheel+tyre assembly be mounted afterwards.<br />
* Since a tyre can be mounted on a wheel with the "Rotation" marking pointing either to the left or to the right (when viewing the wheel from its outside/face side), such a tyre+wheel combination should then '''only''' be used '''either''' on the left '''or''' on the right side of the vehicle.<br />
** In other words, after such a tyre is mounted on a wheel, that assembly should be then used only on one side of the vehicle (depending on how was the tyre oriented when it was mounted on the wheel).<br />
*** This prevents the use of [[#Using five identical tyres|five identical tyres]].<br />
**** Reason: tyres can not be switched from one side of the vehicle to another without dismounting them from the wheel, turning them around and mounting them again - a cumbersome and expensive endeavor.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Asymmetric (uni)directional tread ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* This tread design layout is rather rare.<br />
* Although it theoretically provides the best possible potential for the optimization of the tread surface, it inherently invokes a layer of complexity for which 99% of the tyre market is not accustomed to.<br />
* Because '''both''' the "outside" parameter and the "rotation" parameter need to be respected simultaneously, the tyre model would have to be made in two distinct editions - with a tread layout for the left side of the vehicle and with the tread layout for the right side of the vehicle.<br />
** In other words, it would have to be like a left shoe and a right shoe for humans.<br />
* The seller / installer / buyer would have to be careful to always sell / install / buy such tyres in a "left" + "right" pairs.<br />
* In that case, each tyre marked as "left" from the factory would have to be mounted on a wheel while respecting its "outside" marking (and then used only on the left side of the vehicle), and the same analogy goes for each tyre marked "right" from the factory.<br />
** It should now be clear why this tread layout is rather rare, because of a high risk of improper mounting by trained monkeys (most tyre installers and car mechanics).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=256 heights=320 class=center caption="Examples of tyres with asymmetric (uni)directional tread layouts"><br />
Tyre Uniroyal RainSport 3 - representative image.jpg|Uniroyal RainSport 3<br />
Tyre Michelin Pilot Primacy - representative image.jpg|Michelin Pilot Primacy<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Tyre Michelin Pilot Primacy - two tyres on left and right positions.jpg|thumb|center|Example of a pair of Michelin Pilot Primacy tyres when mounted for a left and for a right position]]<br />
<br />
<br />
* For the few found tyre models with this layout, all of them exist either only in "left" or only in "right" tread layout (to keep the matters simple for the sellers / installers / buyers).<br />
* However this means that the tyres on one side of the vehicle will always be improperly mounted.<br />
** They will be either in reverse direction of motion, or with outside portion of the tread on the inside portion of the wheel!<br />
* That's exactly how each car with such tyres rolls around in practice! - seen and confirmed.<br />
* This interesting issue is still under investigation.<br />
* Why did those manufacturers dare to make such tyres when they knew that they can not be properly mounted on one side of the vehicle?<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Summary of tread layouts ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For all terrain use, bi/non-directional treads (either symmetric or asymmetric) are definitely recommended.<br />
** Main reason: they are the prerequisite for the very good practice of [[#Using five identical tyres|using five identical tyres]].<br />
** Asymmetric treads are in theory better (more versatile) than symmetric treads, but this of course varies in practice, depending on a comparison between particular tyre models.<br />
* (Uni)directional treads should generally be avoided for all terrain use.<br />
** Main reason: they prevent you from [[#Using five identical tyres|using five identical tyres]].<br />
* (Uni)directional treads' performance virtues are typically best utilized in very high-speed summer tyres, in winter tyres when used in harsh snowy/icy conditions, or in MT tyres when used mostly in deep mud.<br />
** If that is the predominantly expected terrain, then (uni)directional tyres might be worthy of consideration.<br />
** If you will be using [[#Using six identical tyres|six identical tyres]], then (uni)directional tyres provide (almost) no restrictions when compared to bi/non-directional tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre suitability for different weather conditions ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* The primary ingredient in tyres is rubber.<br />
** Various important physical characteristics of rubber are quite susceptible to the ambient temperature - it's just in rubber's nature.<br />
* Therefore, it is extremely difficult (if not impossible) to make a tyre which performs (and wears out) equally well in all weather conditions and in all yearly seasons.<br />
* In certain parts of the world, the difference between maximum daily ambient temperatures in summer and minimum nightly temperatures in winter can be higher than 60 degrees Celsius!<br />
** The difference in road temperature can even be more than 100 degrees Celsius, because the road surface can get scorching hot during the summer.<br />
* On the other hand, in many other parts of the world, the difference in ambient and road temperatures between their summer and winter yearly seasons is much lower, sometimes as low as 10-15 degrees Celsius.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This large temperature discrepancy between different seasons in certain parts of the world is the reason why summer and winter tyres exist.<br />
** Life would be much simpler it there was no need for them.<br />
*** If you manage to invent a compound that can completely replace rubber in tyres and also completely eliminate their temperature dependency, you will be one of the richest and most celebrated persons on Earth, plus a Nobel prize winner.<br />
**** Imagine having personal airplanes, yachts, space shuttles, unlimited power, unlimited access to purest drugs, a brigade of slaves and of course more females in a grand harem than all Ottoman sultans and Arab sheiks have ever had combined! <br />
* However, in the recent decades, a special category of allegedly "all season" tyres has began to emerge.<br />
** Such tyres are advertised to be a universal solution which performs equally well in any weather condition or ambient temperature.<br />
** Numerous real world tests show that the effectiveness of all season tyres strongly depends on how "far" is their ambient temperature operating range "stretched".<br />
** In other words, an all season tyre might perform quite satisfactory (equally well) in all weather conditions if the difference between the extremes of those conditions is relatively small (like in tropical or mediterranean climates for example).<br />
** However, most all season tyres fail to perform even close to equally well when the ambient temperature difference between the "warm" and "cold" conditions is relatively high (like in some continental climates for example).<br />
* Another worthy note is that in practice, most "all season" tyres in the world wide tyre industry are actually winter tyres which have been "enhanced" to handle the warmer weather better than a standard winter tyre.<br />
** This means that most "all season" tyres are better suited for relatively cold regions than for relatively hot regions of the world.<br />
** One known exception to this design philosophy is Michelin's [https://www.michelinman.com/tire/michelin/cross-climate-plus CrossClimate Plus] (and its predecessor CrossClimate) all-season tyre model, which is a summer tyre which is enhanced for use in cold conditions. It got a lot of praise.<br />
* So to conclude, an all-season tyre is usually either a winter or a summer tyre that has improved / wider temperature operating range than an ordinary winter or summer tyre, but it's certainly not immune to differences in ambient temperature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since the difference between summer and winter ambient and road conditions varies significantly between various regions of the world (often even within the same country), there is no worldwide standard for determining and marking the suitability of tyres for all weather conditions.<br />
** In other words, there is no official standard to say what the "all season" claim would actually encompass in terms of actual weather conditions.<br />
* Therefore, each tyre manufacturer may label a certain tyre model as a "summer" or a "winter" tyre in one world market, and simultaneously label it as an "all season" tyre in another world market.<br />
* It all comes down to practical application - a winter / summer / spring / autumn on a Mediterranean coastline is certainly not the same as winter / summer / spring / autumn in the Alps for example.<br />
* So it is logical that a certain tyre model may be marketed as an all season tyre in Greece or in Portugal for example and as a summer only tyre in Poland or in Finland.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Possible inadequate performance of all-season tyres in extreme (hot / cold) operating conditions may be partially mitigated by having a leisure and defensive driving style.<br />
** Such driving style is generally recommended when driving any 4WD vehicle.<br />
*** Reason: most 4WD vehicles have high center of gravity, which increases their tendency to roll over in case of collisions or having to perform an evasive maneuver. They also have longer braking stopping distances than ordinary passenger vehicles, and they guzzle significantly more fuel when driven sharply.<br />
* Conclusion: Even if your local climate causes relatively high ambient temperature differences during different times of the year, using all-season tyres might still be quite a viable option if you always drive your vehicle defensively and carefully.<br />
** In other words, the weaknesses of all-season tyres in extremely warm or cold weather might not become so critical when driving slowly and carefully.<br />
* ''All-season'' tyre type is best combined with ''all-terrain'' carcass and tread construction - then it's truly a tyre for ''All and All''!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Choosing tyre size ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Reasons and benefits ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Why would you want to change your tyre size?<br />
* Well, for all terrain vehicles, the usual strive is to increase ground clearance.<br />
** Increasing wheel diameter by increasing tyre profile (the second number in tyre size marking) is the most effective way to achieve this.<br />
*** It lifts the entire vehicle (including the axles!), and is dead simple to do for mild increases.<br />
** There are additional advantages of increasing the tyre profile ("tyre height").<br />
*** This is mentioned in the [[#Tyre profiles|"Tyre profiles"]] chapter.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|When a wheel diameter is changed by a certain amount, the vehicle's (and the axles') ground clearance will change by only half as much (by the amount of wheel's radius change).<br> Basic school geometry explains why.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Issues and risks ===<br />
<br />
<br />
'''However, increasing the wheel circumference/radius incurs the following technical issues:'''<br />
# The vehicle will accelerate harder / slower and will move faster downhill on engine braking (in any gear);<br />
# Transmission will have a heavier duty to perform;<br />
#* This leads to premature wear in the long term;<br />
# Fuel economy is slightly decreased;<br />
#* This is mostly because of harder acceleration;<br />
# Speedometer and tachometer measurement will change as much as the circumference has changed;<br />
# Larger tyres might not fit;<br />
#* They might rub on the bodywork when the front wheels are turning left/right, or when the suspension is compressed on uneven terrain;<br />
# The larger spare tyre might not fit in its spare position (contact with some vehicle body parts) and/or in its case/cover;<br />
# Using snow/mud chains can be risky or impossible, because of (much) less available clearance between the wheels and the surrounding bodywork and mechanical components.<br />
#* However, 4WD vehicles might need snow/mud chains only on steep icy terrain, or for plowing very deep snow.<br />
#* A 4WD vehicle with AT tyres also could benefit of chains in deep soft muddy terrain. <br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* The extent / severity of these issues highly depends on how much the wheel radius has been increased.<br />
** They should be negligible to slight at most, if you stay roughly within +-3% of the factory size.<br />
* Using too wide tyres also induces some of these issues and risks.<br />
** Also, very wide tyres significantly increase the drag force when pulling a bogged vehicle from deep mud.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of these technical issues can be (and usually have to be) remedied in case of significant tyre size increases:<br />
# Impact on vehicle's acceleration and engine braking can be remedied by altering the transmission gears ("regearing").<br />
#* Regearing the transmission will also remedy the load on some parts of the transmission.<br />
#** However, some parts, like the wheel bearings for example, will remain under heavier duty;<br />
# Tyres can be made to fit properly by either or both of the two methods:<br />
## By lifting the vehicle's body or suspension;<br />
## By altering the bodywork (trimming the wheel arches, inner arch linings, etc.) (usually irreversibly), the extent of which highly depends on tyre size;<br />
# In Jimny's case, the larger spare tyre can be made to fit to the tailgate by installing a spacer on the tyre holder;<br />
#* However, the spare tyre vinyl cover or hard spare tyre case has to be custom-made (if badly needed);<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* Some of the mentioned remedies can be quite expensive to apply, and might also imply further modifications.<br />
** For example, higher suspension lifts require modified radius arm bushes, brake hoses, propeller shafts, adding wheel spacers, buying a new loan at the bank ....<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|Using a non-factory tyre size might be illegal or require some vehicle recertification, depending on country or region.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Impact of larger tyres on fuel economy ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Introduction ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using larger tyres certainly negatively impacts fuel economy.<br />
** However, calculating how much is not straightforward!<br />
* There is an important factor of calculation which most people do not take into account, and then they get skewed results.<br />
** The factor is that, with larger tyres, the odometer will record less distance than the vehicle has actually traveled.<br />
*** '''Without''' counting this factor in, the fuel consumption figures get skewed for the worse (the calculated consumption falsely shows to be even higher than it actually is).<br />
* To count this factor in, you have to calculate the percentage of odometer reading mismatch, and multiply it with the odometer reading (to correct the reading to the true value).<br />
** Read more below for the details.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Full details ====<br />
<br />
<br />
The standard method of calculating fuel consumption in practice (in "<font face="courier">l / 100 km</font>" measuring unit) is:<br />
# Fill in a full fuel tank of fuel.<br />
#* Then note the current odometer reading.<br />
# Drive until the fuel tank gets to a (preferably) reserve level.<br />
# Fill in a full fuel tank of fuel again.<br />
#* Then note the current odometer reading.<br />
#* Also note how much fuel was poured in.<br />
* The amount of poured fuel during the last fill is the parameter "<font face="courier">F</font>".<br />
* Calculate the difference between the two odometer readings.<br />
#* That is the parameter "<font face="courier">S</font>".<br />
* The formula to calculate the fuel consumption "<font face="courier">C</font>" is: <font face="courier">'''C = 100 * F / S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
An example:<br />
* After traveling for <font face="courier">385 km</font> since the last full fuel tank fill, the amount of poured fuel to fill a fuel tank was <font face="courier">34,5 l</font>.<br />
* The calculated fuel consumption: <font face="courier">C = 100 * 34,5 / 385 = '''8,96''' l / 100 km</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
* This method of calculation works just fine when using stock sized tyres.<br />
* When using larger tyres, the odometer (and speedometer) reading (parameter "<font face="courier">S</font>") is skewed (incorrect) because the device is calibrated for the stock tyre size (wheel ''circumference'').<br />
* The circumference of a wheel in fact represents exactly the path that the wheel travels for one full wheel rotation.<br />
* The speedometer and odometer only count the wheel rotations (by counting the rotations of some particular gear in the transmission), and they expect the wheel circumference to be close to the theoretical stock size (it always varies slightly due to tyre construction and varying tread depth).<br />
** Therefore, when a larger diameter wheel is used, the odometer will count less distance than the vehicle has actually traveled in real life.<br />
*** The amount of skew is directly proportional to the amount of wheel circumference change.<br />
<br />
<br />
An example:<br />
* The theoretical diameter "<font face="courier">D1</font>" of a stock sized tyre (<font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font>) is <font face="courier">668,0 mm</font>.<br />
** Its circumference "<font face="courier">C1</font>" is: <font face="courier">C1 = D1 * pi = 668,0 * pi = 2098,58 mm</font>.<br />
* The theoretical diameter "<font face="courier">D2</font>" of a <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> tyre is <font face="courier">703,5 mm</font>.<br />
** Its circumference "<font face="courier">C2</font>" is: <font face="courier">C2 = D2 * pi = 703,5 * pi = 2210,11 mm</font>.<br />
* The difference: <font face="courier">C2 - C1 = 111,53 mm = 11,2 cm</font>.<br />
** That is how much additional distance the larger wheel will travel with each wheel rotation!<br />
* It might not look like much for one wheel rotation, but it's actually a <font face="courier">(C2 / C1 - 1) * 100 = 5,31%</font> increase in wheel circumference.<br />
** This directly translates to <font face="courier">'''5,31%'''</font> increase in the path traveled, for <font face="courier">'''any'''</font> distance.<br />
*** That means, when your odometer shows that you have traveled <font face="courier">1000 km</font> with these larger tyres, you have actually traveled circa <font face="courier">1053 km</font>!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Now, if you keep on using the standard fuel consumption calculation formula with the larger tyres (without factoring in the skew in the odometer reading), you will get skewed results.<br />
** Because you have actually traveled more distance (and therefore used more fuel) than your odometer shows, the calculated fuel consumption will be higher than it actually is.<br />
* You will find many driver reports/complaints on the Internet of increased fuel consumption after installing larger tyres, where many drivers even provide "calculated" fuel consumption figures.<br />
** However, most of those people have not factored in this odometer reading skew, rendering their results incompetent.<br />
** If someone has not mentioned that they had factored in the skew in the odometer reading when calculating fuel consumption with larger tyres, than don't trust their fuel consumption figures.<br />
<br />
<br />
To continue on the above to examples:<br />
* You have <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> tyres.<br />
** Their theoretical circumference is <font face="courier">5,31%</font> larger than the theoretical circumference of stock-sized tyres (<font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font>).<br />
* The recorded odometer difference "<font face="courier">S</font>" between two full fuel tank fills is <font face="courier">385 km</font>.<br />
* The amount of filled fuel "<font face="courier">F</font>" during the last fuel fill was <font face="courier">34,5 l</font>.<br />
* Standard calculation (''without'' factoring the skew in odometer reading): <font face="courier">C = 100 * F / S = 100 * 34,5 / 385 = '''8,96''' l / 100 km</font>.<br />
* However, if you factor in the skew in the odometer reading: <font face="courier">S' = S * 1,0531</font><br />
* Now, the new ('''correct''') calculation: <font face="courier">C = 100 * F / S' = 100 * 34,5 / (385 * 1,0531) = '''8,51''' l / 100 km</font>!<br />
* This is a difference of <font face="courier">'''0,45''' l / 100 km</font>!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Conclusion ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* While the fuel consumption does slightly increase with larger tyres, it isn't nearly as much as standard "calculations / measurements" would indicate.<br />
* To accurately calculate / measure the fuel consumption with larger than stock size tyres, you need to determine the percentage of change in wheel circumference compared to stock size, and then include that factor in the standard formula for calculating fuel consumption.<br />
* The percentage of change in wheel circumference is parameter "<font face="courier">P</font>".<br />
* The final formula (<font face="courier">l / 100 km</font> unit) is: <font face="courier">'''C = 100 * F / (S * (1 + P/100))'''</font><br />
<br />
<br />
The percentage of change in wheel circumference between stock tyre size and other commonly used sizes with Jimnys can be found in one of the tables in the chapter [[#Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny wheels|'''"Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny wheels"''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny factory wheel specification ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
Depending upon trim level, Jimnys 3 are supplied with either alloy or steel wheels, sized <font face="courier">5.5Jx15 ET22</font>.<br />
<br />
Gen4 Jimny standard wheels (both alloy and steel) are <font face="courier">5.5Jx15 ET5</font>.<br />
<br />
Wheel stud mounting specification ("PCD" parameter) for both Jimny generations is <font face="courier">5 x 139.7</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny factory tyre specification and approved specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 factory tyre specification(s) ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
Valid for all Jimnys 3 (with exceptions noted below):<br />
* Tyre size is <font face="courier">'''205 / 70 / R15'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre load carrying index is <font face="courier">'''96'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre maximum velocity index is <font face="courier">'''S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
These are the known exceptions:<br />
* Some JDM (Japanese domestic market) models (possibly <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font>?, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** Some JDM Jimny models are smaller / lighter, and hence narrower tyres.<br />
** The Japanese Jimny XC/XG models manufactured in 2017 have a tyre size of <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R16</font> (unknown load and velocity).<br />
* Brazilian "4sport" and "4work" editions before 2017 production year (<font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** They have different front bumper, wheel arches and some body lift to accommodate the tyres.<br />
* 2WD/RWD-only "el-cheapo" Jimnys (without 4WD mechanics), produced from 1998 to approx 2001 (<font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font>, unknown load and velocity).<br />
** Suzuki probably chose this size to aid grip in wet and snowy conditions.<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes on factory specifications:<br />
<br />
* Size <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> is also the factory tyre size on Suzuki Vitara / Escudo / Sidekick 1 (1988-1998, somewhere up to 2004) and many Suzuki SJ413 / Samurai editions.<br />
** It is not known if Vitara and SJ41x models use the same load and velocity specifications or not.<br />
* While the size <font face="courier">175 / 80 / R15</font> appears to be much smaller than <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> on a first "numeric" glance, the tyre radius (and implicitly ground clearance) is just 3,5 mm smaller.<br />
** So, the "smaller" size is actually quite competitive to the "normal" one.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 4 factory tyre specification(s) ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
Valid for all Jimnys 4 (with exceptions noted below):<br />
* Tyre size is <font face="courier">'''195 / 80 / R15'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre load carrying index is <font face="courier">'''96'''</font>.<br />
* Tyre maximum velocity index is <font face="courier">'''S'''</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
These are the known exceptions:<br />
* ''Write any known exceptions here!''<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes on factory sizes:<br />
* ''Write any additional notes here!''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Approved non-factory tyre specifications ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* According to some South African and Australian forums (example: [http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/67086-Approved-Jimny-tires this forum topic]), their local Suzuki dealers' official policy is to allow +-3% variation in wheel diameter.<br />
** Therefore, if your Jimny is under warranty (or you want to be mechanically moral), +-3% is your expansion border.<br />
* As far as it is known, no vehicle manufacturer sets restrictions on using tyres with higher load and/or velocity rating(s) compared to factory specifications (they just restrict not to use lower than factory specified).<br />
** While a higher tyre velocity specification certainly can't hurt in any regard, a higher load specification '''can have''' negative consequences, especially on a super-light vehicle like any Jimny.<br />
*** Read the chapter about C and LT tyres for more info about consequences when using tyres with higher load rating than specified by vehicle manufacturer.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|If you want to be certain if a desired non-factory tyre specification would be officially approved, then check with your local Suzuki dealer!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible & interesting tyre sizes for Jimny's stock wheels ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Quick and simple decision ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The three most popular, non-extreme size upgrades from Jimny 3's factory size of <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> are to:<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">205 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''10 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is +3%;<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">195 / 80 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''13 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is +3,8%;<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''18 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is a moderate +5,3%;<br />
<br />
<br />
Jimny 4's stock tyre size of <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> is already quite good for all-terrain use. The only possible non-extreme size upgrade from it is to:<br />
# '''<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>'''<br />
#* Ground clearance and tyre's sidewall height increase by cca. '''5 mm''';<br />
#** Wheel circumference increase is only +1,5%, but tyre width increase is 2 cm;<br />
<br />
<br />
A side note: If your desired tyre model is not available in Jimny 4's stock size of <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font>, a good "close match" alternative is the size <font face="courier">205 / 75 / R15</font>. With that size, you will lose only a negligible 2 mm of ground clearance and the negative consequences of having (only) 5% wider track will not be significant.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, even these non-extreme size upgrades '''may''' impose certain risks of collisions between tyres and the vehicle body in some vehicle configurations.<br />
** That mostly depends if the vehicle has front mudflaps or not, if wheel spacers are used, etc.<br />
*** For Jimny 3, another factor of risk is if the vehicle has 2nd gen. front bumper or not.<br />
* For Jimny 3, the overall risk is generally the lowest with the first size in the list, and the highest with the third size in the list.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Any tyre size upgrade will also introduce certain deviations in vehicle's driving characteristics (road handling, acceleration, top speed, engine braking, transmission's stress).<br />
** However, for these three non-extreme size upgrades, those deviations range from "negligible" to "small".<br />
* For Jimny 3, the first size in the list is the least deviant, as it provides the smallest diameter change, while also keeping the same tyre width.<br />
* For Jimny 4, that only non-extreme size upgrade will definitely increase fuel consumption and possibly reduce traction on slippery roads, as the tyre profile is 10% wider than stock.<br />
** Wider tyre - more dry road rolling friction and weaker road holding on packed snow and ice.<br />
<br />
<br />
For Jimnys 3:<br />
* Bear in mind that while the first size '''might''' be allowed by Suzuki (depending on company's regional policy), the second and third sizes are definitely not allowed by Suzuki (regional exceptions may apply).<br />
<br />
For any Jimny generation:<br />
* Bear in mind that ANY tyre and/or wheel ("rim") sizes apart from those which are strictly specified in vehicle's handbook or vehicle's registration documents are prohibited in certain countries (example: Germany)!<br />
** In such cases, the vehicle usually has to be put through a state-prescribed certification process in order to legalize the use of a desired different tyre and/or wheel ("rim") size.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|MT class tyres, and especially "remoulded" (retreaded) tyres, typically deviate significantly from their theoretical sizes (they tend to be quite larger)!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Regarding "tyre vs. vehicle body" collision risks ====<br />
<br />
<br />
===== For Jimny 3 =====<br />
<br />
<br />
Sizes <font face="courier">205 / 75 / R15</font> and <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> generally have no risks of collisions with the vehicle's body, with two exceptions:<br />
# If you have a 2nd gen. front bumper (see below), you might have to straighten it if it is sagged, or trim it just slightly (invisibly) on the bottom (simple job with a grinding tool).<br />
# If you have front mud flaps, you might have to trim a plastic spacer behind them (which is easy to dismount and mount) by approx 10-15 mm.<br />
<br />
<br />
Size <font face="courier">215 / 75 / R15</font> could be more problematic:<br />
* It may require some trimming of the bottom of the front bumper, especially if it is a 2nd gen. bumper. <br />
* Front mudflaps will probably need to be removed.<br />
* The spare tyre might contact with the rear bumper.<br />
* Wheel arch trimming is generally not needed, except if wheel spacers are used without a lift.<br />
* Brazilian "HR" (2010-2012) "4sport" and "4work" (untill 2016) Jimny editions (which came with "<font face="Courier">215 / 75 / R15</font>" tyres from the factory), also came with an approximate 25 mm body lift from the factory (to remedy the collision risks).<br />
** The Brazilian "4sport" edition also had a minimalist front bumper, which increased the clearance in front of front tyres (eliminating the collision risk when steering) and provided higher approach angle.<br />
<br />
<br />
===== For Jimny 4 =====<br />
<br />
<br />
''Write about any collission risks for the size 215 / 75 / R15 on a Jimny 4 here ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Final quick notes ====<br />
<br />
<br />
This was a quick and simple guide to the issue of tyre sizes.<br />
<br />
{{note|If you have or expect collision issues between your existing or planned tyres and the vehicle, you can remedy them by [[Lifting the vehicle|'''Lifting the vehicle''']] and/or by [[Wheel arch trimming|'''Trimming the wheel arches''']] and/or by trimming the front bumper.}}<br />
<br />
{{note|If you use a pendant-style tow bar mounted bicycle carrier, a wider spare tyre might collide with the bicycle carrier. This depends on how long the tow ball + tow neck section is.<br>Read [[Tow bar|"'''Tow bar'''"]] and [[Bicycle carriers|"'''Bicycle carriers'''"]] wiki articles for more information.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Thorough consideration ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}<br />
This chapter is for those who want to fully understand the possible effects and issues when using non-stock tyre sizes, and for those who intend to use significantly larger tyres than the stock size ones.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The following two tables contain detailed information on effects of various non-stock tyre sizes for Suzuki Jimny 2 (a.k.a. "Samurai" / SJ41x) and Suzuki Jimny 3 (a.k.a. SN41x).<br />
** Many of the effects and issues from the tables below are rarely taken into consideration until it is too late!<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, some general remarks about the tables below:<br />
* The two tables used to be a single large table, but it was split into two tables (a "left" part and a "right" part) in order to improve readability on-line and when printed.<br />
* The data in the first table is valid both for Jimny 2 and 3, as it mostly contains theoretically calculated mathematical figures and some general common comments.<br />
** Also, stated gearing deviations in the first table affect both vehicle models in a similar amount.<br />
** Some of the data from the first table could also be useful to Jimny 4 owners (for example: stated tyre dimensions for each tyre size).<br />
* All the data in the second table is Jimny 3 specific and deals only with the risks of collisions between the tyres (wheels) and Jimny 3's various body parts.<br />
** Reason: Jimny 2s typically have smaller body panels and therefore larger clearances around the wheels, so there are typically much lower risks of collisions.<br />
* All tyre sizes from these tables should fit on Jimny 2's and 3's stock steel and alloy wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The content of both tables was compiled by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek].<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bosanek sourced the data in the second table in smaller part from his personal experience, and in larger part from various forum topics here and there throughout the Internet.<br />
* Most of the collision risk evaluation comments in the second table should be taken as rough guidelines only, and not as precise statements.<br />
*# Reason 1: Every Jimny 3's "stance/posture" (and therefore clearance around the wheels) is slightly different (suspension sags a bit over time and use, the bumpers can get sagged too, etc.);<br />
*# Reason 2: There can be slight or even significant dimensional variations between different tyre models of the same theoretical size (read more below);<br />
<br />
<br />
Some additional notes:<br />
# Percentage of circumference / diameter change in the first table is also the percentage of speedometer and tachometer measurement change.<br />
# Suzuki's official allowed wheel diameter change (shown in the first table) for Jimny 3 is within +-3%.<br />
# Wheel diameter is most affected by the "H" parameter (tyre sidewall height). Tyre width is less important.<br />
#* For example, the diameter of a <font face="courier">195 / 80 / R15</font> tyre is larger than the diameter of a <font face="courier">205 / 70 / R15</font> tyre!<br />
#* The former tyre size is narrower but higher than the latter tyre size!<br />
# Tyre sizes in real life do not have to be 100% accurate as their theoretical measurements, because of variations in tyre construction for different tyre models.<br />
#* Tyres in AT class and especially MT class tend to deviate less or more from theoretical measurements, because of their "clunkier" and deeper treads and/or sidewalls.<br />
#* The most deviant by far (in terms of sizing) are "retreaded" tyres (remoulded, refurbrished, "protect", etc.). They are typically significantly larger than specified by standard sizing numbers.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="3" | Tyre size parameters<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>diameter<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>radius<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Sidewall<br>height<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Wheel<br>circumference<br>[mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Circumference<br>change from<br>stock size [%]<br />
! rowspan="2" | Fits into Suzuki's<br>+- 3% allowed variation?<br />
! rowspan="2" | Ground clearance<br>change from<br>stock size [mm]<br />
! rowspan="2" | General comment<br />
! rowspan="2" | Gearing deviation<br>(acceleration, top speed, engine<br>braking, odo/speedo innacuracies)<br />
|-<br />
! W<br />
! H<br />
! R<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 65<br />
| 15<br />
| 634,5<br />
| 317,3<br />
| 126,8<br />
| 1993<br />
| -5,01<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| -17<br />
| Very cheap size for very cheapish owners<br />
| Significant, but not mechanically stressing as it is negative<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 654,0<br />
| 327,0<br />
| 136,5<br />
| 2055<br />
| -2,1<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| -7<br />
| Cheap size for cheapish owners<br />
| Negligible<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 673,5<br />
| 336,8<br />
| 146,3<br />
| 2116<br />
| +0,82<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| +3<br />
| No real benefit over factory size<br />
| Practically none<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 693,0<br />
| 346,5<br />
| 156,0<br />
| 2177<br />
| +3,74<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +13<br />
| Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Minor to small<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 82<br />
| 15<br />
| 700,8<br />
| 350,4<br />
| 159,9<br />
| 2202<br />
| +4,91<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +16<br />
| Rare size. Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Small to moderate<br />
|- style="background:#E6E6FF"<br />
| 205<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 668,0<br />
| 334,0<br />
| 143,5<br />
| 2099<br />
| 0<br />
| <span style="color: #0000FF;">'''HELL YES'''</span><br />
| 0<br />
| Factory Samurai / Jimny dimension<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFF2E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 688,5<br />
| 344,3<br />
| 153,8<br />
| 2163<br />
| +3,07<br />
| <span style="color: #FF9900;">'''PROBABLY YES'''</span><br />
| +10<br />
| Mild gains with rarely any collisions or deviations.<br><br>Recommended as the simplest upgrade.<br />
| Negligible to minor<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 709,0<br />
| 354,5<br />
| 164,0<br />
| 2227<br />
| +6,14<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +21<br />
| Rare size. Very good size for off roading.<br>Significant gains with moderate risks and deviations.<br />
| Significant, possibly mechanically stressing.<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 215<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 682,0<br />
| 341,0<br />
| 150,5<br />
| 2143<br />
| +2,1<br />
| <span style="color: #008000;">'''YES'''</span><br />
| +7<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Negligible<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 215<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 703,5<br />
| 351,8<br />
| 161,3<br />
| 2210<br />
| +5,31<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +18<br />
| Quite good size for off roading.<br>Moderate gains with some collisions and deviations.<br />
| Small to moderate<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 215<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 725,0<br />
| 362,5<br />
| 172,0<br />
| 2278<br />
| +8,53<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +29<br />
| Rare size. Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Large, requires regearing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 225<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 696,0<br />
| 348,0<br />
| 157,5<br />
| 2187<br />
| +4,19<br />
| <span style="color: #FF0000;">'''NO'''</span><br />
| +14<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Minor to small<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 718,5<br />
| 359,3<br />
| 168,8<br />
| 2257<br />
| +7,56<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +25<br />
| Very good size for off roading.<br>Significant gains with moderate risks and deviations.<br />
| Large, needs regearing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 741,0<br />
| 370,5<br />
| 180,0<br />
| 2328<br />
| +10,93<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +37<br />
| Rare size. Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| 710,0<br />
| 355,0<br />
| 164,5<br />
| 2231<br />
| +6,29<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +21<br />
| Relatively low effective gain -<br>height does not increase a lot compared to width increase.<br />
| Significant, mechanically stressing<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| 733,5<br />
| 366,8<br />
| 176,3<br />
| 2304<br />
| +9,81<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +33<br />
| Exceptionally good size for off roading.<br>Quite significant gains with significant risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| 757,0<br />
| 378,5<br />
| 188,0<br />
| 2378<br />
| +13,32<br />
| <span style="color: #660066;">'''HELL NO'''</span><br />
| +45<br />
| Extremely good size for off roading.<br>Extreme gains with extreme risks and deviations.<br />
| Extreme and requires regearing,<br>plus wheel bearing and CV joint improvements.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="3" | Tyre size parameters<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs.<br>front bumper collision<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs. front mud flap collision<br>(if front mud flaps are fitted)<br />
! colspan="2" | Risk of tyre vs.<br>wheel arch collision<br />
! rowspan="2" | Risk of spare tyre vs.<br>rear door collision<br />
! rowspan="2" | Risk of spare tyre vs.<br>rear bumper collision<br />
|-<br />
! W<br />
! H<br />
! R<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! Without 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
! With 3 cm<br>wheel spacers<br />
|-<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 65<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 195<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| If 2nd. gen front bumper is used, might require (invisible) minor front bumper bottom trimming.<br>Otherwise, no risk.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br>Some bottom trimming of front bumper cures it.<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| Very low<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 195<br />
| 82<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br>Some bottom trimming of front bumper cures it.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| Low<br />
|- style="background:#E6E6FF"<br />
| 205<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFF2E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| None, except if the 2nd gen. bumper is sagged.<br />
| If 2nd. gen front bumper is used, might require (invisible) minor front bumper bottom trimming.<br>Otherwise, no risk.<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 205<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| ?<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| None<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#EBFAEB"<br />
| 215<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| None<br />
| Usually none<br />
| None<br />
| Requires minor trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
| None<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 215<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Might require minor or moderate trimming of the bottom of the front bumper (especially if 2nd gen. front bumper is used).<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate to severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| None<br />
| Possible<br />
| None<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 215<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| None<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6E6"<br />
| 225<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| ?<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires moderate trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Requires moderate to severe trimming of front mud flap spacers.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 225<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Possible.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 70<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires moderate or significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Probably requires some trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 75<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|- style="background:#FFE6FF"<br />
| 235<br />
| 80<br />
| 15<br />
| Requires significant trimming of the front bumper.<br />
| Wheel spacers increase the risk for all bumper generations.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires removal of front mud flaps.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Requires significant trimming of front wheel arches.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
| Will collide.<br>Use of a spacer mount resolves it.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The availability of different tyre models in a desired tyre size can vary significantly.<br>Not all tyres are manufactured in every listed tyre size for every market or all the time.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* As it is evident from the tables above, even if you choose to stay within Suzuki's alleged +3% allowed wheel diameter increase, there are several tyre profiles which can be used to achieve the goal of higher ground clearance.<br />
* It is preferred to achieve the goal by increasing sidewall height (second number in tyre profile sizing code) instead of altering tyre width (first number in tyre profile sizing code).<br />
* Maximum "gain" is achieved if both are increased at the same time.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre models in Jimny-compatible sizes ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* There is a wide variety of HT, AT and MT class tyre models which are available in Jimny-compatible sizes.<br />
** It would be a pity to use an ordinary limousine road tyre instead!<br />
<br />
<br />
* [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS8QK57r_0BElB4ZZNpcpr6DepJhhxnkl_8oSq8ZhJ29o8dHoknaYUi3H8nGBUlQWYyaHD_6qCHv8b_/pubhtml?gid=1&single=true '''This table'''] (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') contains the list of all brand-name HT, AT and MT tyres which he has found on the worldwide market.<br />
** In addition to the list of tyre models, that table also contains the availability of each tyre model in most popular Jimny-compatible sizes!<br />
* A lot of time has been spent populating that table, and adding custom remarks there.<br />
* The table is still incomplete in some details, but will be updated from time to time.<br />
** The sizing availability is the most incomplete, as it takes a lot of investigation to fill the required data for each tyre model.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Not all of those tyre models in the list are available in sizes which are compatible for Jimny. Sizing availability might depend on the market, and can change for better or worse at any time.}}<br />
<br />
Therefore, once you settle on your desired tyre size, now you can browse through tyre models and choose the one which is available in that size and suits your criteria the best.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== User experiences with certain tyre models ===<br />
<br />
<br />
Info about stock tyre models as fitted by Suzuki:<br />
* Stock tyre model on Jimny 3 and 4 is [https://www.bridgestone.co.uk/car-tyres/summer-tyres-dueler/h-t-684-ii/ Bridgestone Dueler H/T 684 II].<br />
* It is a summer HT tyre designed predominantly for on-road use.<br />
** Nothing remarkable at all.<br />
<br />
<br />
Here are the AT tyre models with which Jimny owners have had great or quite good experiences with:<br />
* Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+<br />
* General Grabber AT (not AT2!)<br />
* Continental ContiCrossContact AT<br />
* BF Goodrich AT/KO2<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* All of the above listed tyre models have proven themselves as being very good on-road in any time of year, while also proving to be rather versatile off road.<br />
* Also, General has recently (09/2016) released model '''AT3''', which looks very interesting indeed.<br />
** Avoid the model AT2, it is very old and deprecated one!<br />
*** Grabber AT2 is actually older than Grabber AT.<br />
* Many other AT tyre brands and models not mentioned above might also be quite good - investigate on your own!<br />
<br />
<br />
If you insist on heavy-duty off-road performance (but still want to retain '''some''' on-road credibility), there are three such MT class tyre models with which Jimny 3 owners have been relatively satisfied with:<br />
* BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2<br />
* Hankook Dynapro MT (RT03)<br />
* Kumho Road Venture KL71 (''(uni)directional!'')<br />
* [http://www.maxxis.co.uk/catalog/tyre-3-21-trepador-radial-m8060#sizes Maxxis Trepador M8060] (''(uni)directional!'') ''(Martin Lines comment: I have found these particularly good on a standard Jimny)''<br />
<br />
<br />
Additional notes:<br />
* Many other MT tyre brands and models not mentioned above might also be quite good - investigate on your own!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Spare wheel and tyre usage ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* All proper all terrain vehicles, like all Jimny generations, come with a full size matching spare wheel and tyre, which are the same (identical) as the other four wheels and tyres.<br />
** That is for a reason.<br />
** The reason is that (most) 4WD vehicles have to be driven on '''all four''' identical tyres '''all''' the time.<br />
*** The spare wheel and tyre will, sooner or later, (at least temporarily) take place of one of the usual four wheels and tyres.<br />
* Therefore, that spare wheel and tyre are not meant to be just carried around and sit idle all the time.<br />
* For all terrain vehicles, the spare wheel and tyre are not a fashion accessory nor a "dead cargo".<br />
** They are an important operational element of the vehicle, as well as an important safety device.<br />
* Therefore, the spare wheel and tyre must not be overlooked.<br />
** They should be actively used.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Otherwise, there are multiple risks of staying stranded in the event of the simplest tyre puncture, or even damaging vehicle's transmission in the event that the spare wheel and tyre do indeed have to be used!<br />
* If you use only four same tyres in a typical 4-tyre rotation scheme, you might easily end up with only three half-worn same tyres - useless for a 4WD vehicle.<br />
** For example, a sidewall puncture is generally impossible to repair properly.<br />
*** You will have to discard the remaining three tyres and buy all four/five new tyres - what a waste. <br />
<br />
<br />
However, there are some rules and restrictions when actively using five same tyres - read more in the following subchapters.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using five identical tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Buy and use five same (identical) tyres! The spare tyre should not sit idle all the time! That is even written in each Jimny's owner manual.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* The spare wheel and tyre should be actively and periodically rotated together with the other four wheels and tyres, and all should be the same.<br />
** In other words, the 5th wheel and tyre should play an equal role and importance as the other four wheels and tyres.<br />
* In case of an all-terrain vehicle like the Jimny, that gives you so much benefits.<br />
** There is only one downside - you pay 25% more at once when buying the tyre set.<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1svFOPe-Z1xS2BbiYvr3jQbAortqZevZy74VC9wdo9Dk/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which shows the actual 5-tyre rotation scheme, and also lists "FOR" and "AGAINST" reasons to actively use all five identical tyres in a 5-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is a good and handy practice to rotate the tyres with every engine oil change.<br />
* If you recently bought a set of four new identical tyres (they have not got worn more than 1-2 mm at most), you still have time to buy the fifth one.<br />
** Reason: the first tyre rotation schedule has not yet been performed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The five-tyre rotation scheme is especially suited to practice when using all-season tyres. Many AT-class tyres are all-season.}}<br />
<br />
{{warning|If you have a hard or soft spare wheel cover, you won't be able to use it with a spare tyre which is larger than the stock size.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Warning against using (uni)directional tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Five-tyre rotation scheme is '''not''' practical with tyres which have (uni)directional treads.<br />
** Reason: each such tyre must be used on only one side of the vehicle, depending on how it was oriented during its mounting on the wheel.<br />
* (Uni)directional tyres require a [[#Using six identical tyres|'''six''' tyre rotation scheme]] (or a plain four tyre single-side rotation scheme).<br />
** See the chapter [[#Тyre tread symmetry and directionality|"Тyre tread symmetry and directionality"]] for details.<br />
* Therefore, when using five tyres, always use bi/non-directional tyres.<br />
* Luckily, most HT, AT and MT tyre models have symmetrical treads, but there are exceptions.<br />
** Beware of this!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tread (a)symmetry is not related to the above note about tread directionality.<br />
** In other words, either symmetric or asymmetric treads can be used, as long as they are bi/non-directional.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using six identical tyres ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using six identical tyres in a six tyre rotation scheme provides the most "advanced" (double) redundancy and robustness.<br />
* It is very recommended for extended overland expeditions in remote areas, or when frequently venturing in some really hard core off roading where tyre or wheel damage is a major operating risk.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The major disadvantage of a six tyre rotation scheme is that it requires the purchase of a 6th wheel, preferably the same one as the existing five wheels.<br />
* Additional disadvantage is the required space to carry the sixth wheel in/on the vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Qo5wIgLnsA8Tuq7rBJHqTyQhv8TNW7RwPFTOm3PbBjQ/pubhtml '''Here'''] is a document (''made by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile?view=user&userid=16580 Bosanek]'') which shows the actual 6-tyre rotation schemes (separately for bi/non-directional and for (uni)directional tyres), and also lists "FOR" and "AGAINST" reasons to actively use all six identical tyres in a 6-tyre rotation scheme.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Considerations when using (uni)directional tyres ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you want to use tyres which have (uni)directional treads, the six tyre rotation scheme is your only "advanced" option, apart from the plain four tyre single-side rotation scheme (not recommended).<br />
** See the chapter [[#Тyre tread symmetry and directionality|"Тyre tread symmetry and directionality"]] for details on tyre tread directionality.<br />
* When using (uni)directional tyres in a six tyre rotation scheme, the tyres are split into two groups, each containing three tyres.<br />
** One group of tyres is used only on the left side of the vehicle, while the other group of tyres is used only on the right side of the vehicle.<br />
* Therefore, you always have one spare tyre per one side of the vehicle.<br />
** That is unless you own a Mercedes G63 6x6.<br />
*** Then you need an eight tyre rotation scheme.<br />
**** But then you probably have servants or slaves doing that care for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Using a non-matching spare tyre ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Introduction ====<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|Using (periodically rotating) a matching spare tyre together with the other four tyres is strongly recommended, as per the above chapter [[#Using five identical tyres|"'''Using five identical tyres'''"]].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
However, if, for whatever reason, a non-matching spare tyre has to be used on a 4WD vehicle, special caution has to be applied in order to avoid expensive transmission damage!<br />
<br />
This subchapter is a guide what to do in this unfortunate event.<br />
<br />
<br />
First of all, a ''non-matching'' tyre in this context means any of the following:<br />
* Different tyre size (width or height) than the other four tyres;<br />
* Different tyre model than the other four tyres;<br />
* Tyre's tread depth more than 1 mm or 2 mm different than the tread depth of the other four tyres;<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The cause of the issue with using a non-matching spare tyre:<br />
* Any 4WD transmission with a non-existing center differential (or when a center differential is locked) expects the same rotational speed and rotational friction from all four wheels.<br />
* If that is not the case, the gears and shafts of the transmission literally tension and wind up because of the discrepancies caused by a non-matching wheel.<br />
** If the tension and wind up become sufficiently high, something in the transmission '''will''' break.<br />
* With a non-matching spare wheel in the game, the breaking point could be just a few wheel turns away!<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Installation position ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* With part-time 4WD vehicles like all Jimny generations, the non-matching spare wheel should always be used on the front axle.<br />
** The reason is that the front wheels are disconnected from the entire transmission when the vehicle is in 2WD and 2WD-L mode, and therefore using a smaller wheel does not impact the transmission then. <br />
<br />
<br />
So, if one of your '''front''' tyres get punctured, just replace that wheel with your non-matching spare wheel and tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
However, if one of your '''rear''' tyres gets punctured, the procedure would be:<br />
# Remove the punctured rear wheel;<br />
# Remove one good front wheel;<br />
# Install that front wheel in the place of the punctured rear wheel;<br />
# Install the spare non-matching wheel in the place of the removed front wheel.<br />
<br />
That's a lot of work if it's hot, cold, wet, dusty, raining, windy or night time! But it is the only proper way.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Now, when the non-matching spare tyre is on your front axle, as long as you don't engage 4WD, you should be fine.<br />
** So, do your best to get to the nearest tyre repair workshop strictly in 2WD mode.<br />
* If you have manually operating front wheel hubs, make sure that they are disengaged all the time.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Using 4WD mode with a non-matching spare tyre ====<br />
<br />
<br />
If you get a puncture in the middle of offroading where you need 4WD to get to civilization, you are in trouble.<br />
<br />
<br />
* After installing the spare non-matching wheel on the front axle per the above instructions, constrain the use of 4WD only when it is absolutely necessary.<br />
* Disengage 4WD as soon as it is not strictly necessary, and engage it later when necessary again, and so on.<br />
* If you have manually operating front wheel hubs, you have to engage and disengage them every time in sync with engaging and disengaging 4WD.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Alternatively, using 2WD-L mode would be safe in regards of the issue of non-matching spare tyre, and it might provide enough aid to get you trough difficult sections instead of using 4WD.<br />
** However, all Jimnys (made currently up to 2019 at least) have to be modified first in order to enable 2WD-L transmission mode.<br />
** See the chapter [[2WD-L transmission mode]] for details.<br />
<br />
<br />
* While 4WD is used, the size or friction discrepancy on one wheel will cause '''constant''' transmission wind up as long as the vehicle is moving in 4WD.<br />
** However, as long as 4WD is used on rather slippery ground (snow, mud, very loose gravel), the wind up should be able to constantly relieve itself, without harmful consequences.<br />
* In other words, one wheel will have to ''continously'' "underslip" in order to compensate for the discrepancy.<br />
** Only very slippery ground can enable that.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The most difficult situation would be with rather rocky or bumpy '''dry''' road, where you usually need to use 4WD-L 1st gear to pass slowly.<br />
* Because the road is '''dry and/or rather solid''', there is not enough chance for the transmission to relieve itself of the continuous discrepancy (for a wheel to continuously underslip).<br />
** Therefore, transmission damage in these conditions is quite likely!<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, if you have to use a non-matching spare tyre on a dry rocky or bumpy road, the best option is 2WD-L 1st gear.<br />
** However, if your Jimny is not modified to have 2WD-L mode, it might be better to use 2WD 1st gear instead of 4WD-L 1st gear.<br />
*** That means you have to go through faster, or drive "improperly" by riding the clutch and/or the brakes.<br />
* It is the driver's decision whether to risk the damage to the suspension done by going faster through rocks and bumps, or to the clutch if riding it, or on the other hand, to risk damage to the transmission in 4WD-L mode. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre air pressures ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
{{note|Changing your tyre pressures to suit the (off)road conditions is the '''most effective''' vehicle mod ever!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Learn and use the skills of tyre pressure management.<br />
* In general terms, reducing tyre pressure by 20-30% from stock on-road pressure is the operating norm for hard (rough) gravel and general off-road conditions.<br />
** For deep mud, deep snow, sand and other boggy conditions, even more pressure reduction can be used (but with caution).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=480 heights=360 class=center caption="Example of Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+ 205 / 75 / R15 tyres on a Jimny 3, when deflated from stock 1,7 bar to 1,1 bar"><br />
Tyre with reduced air pressure on a Jimny - A01.jpg|Notice the relatively large contact area with the ground<br />
Tyre with reduced air pressure on a Jimny - A02.jpg|Notice how the tyre deforms to accommodate uneven ground under it<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* Reducing air pressure in tyres from standard on-road pressure usually provides significant advantages when driving on unpaved surfaces and in off-road conditions.<br />
* However, there are a few potential disadvantages and risks too, depending on the situation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Advantages and benefits ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Increased contact area with the ground, thus:<br />
** Improving traction on most surfaces;<br />
** Improving flotation on soft ground;<br />
* Softer behavior of the tyre, so the tyre absorbs a much larger portion of impacts and vibrations, thus:<br />
** Improving ride comfort;<br />
** Reducing vehicle stress;<br />
* The tread surface acts less stiffly when contacting rough, sharp or pointy objects on the ground, instead deforming gently over them, with the following benefits:<br />
** Reduced risk of tyre tread damage (cutting, chipping);<br />
** Reduced risk of punctures through tyre tread;<br />
<br />
<br />
The following video shows tyre tread puncture tests performed at different tyre pressures for three different tyre constructions:<br />
<br />
<youtube>9Kz8mmLkeks</youtube><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Disadvantages and risks ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Vehicle's ground clearance decreases slightly (usually about 1 cm for Jimnys) when tyres' air pressure is reduced by ~30%.<br />
* Tyre's sidewall "bulges out" more when the air pressure is significantly reduced (see pictures above).<br />
** This increases the risk of contacting the sidewall with sharp objects along the road.<br />
* On roads where there is a significant risk of tyre sidewalls contacting rough/sharp objects (for example deep rutted tracks with a lot of debris in the walls of the ruts), it might be better not to decrease tyre air pressures significantly.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{warning|When tyre pressures are reduced (for any reason), vehicle's top speed should be limited to approx '''50 km/h''' / '''30 mph''' on tarmac roads, or ~ '''40 km/h''' / '''20 mph''' on gravel roads. Otherwise, the tyres might overheat and disintegrate prematurely!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
Increased contact area between the tyre and the ground has two negative side effects as well:<br />
* Increased tyre tread wear;<br />
* Increased fuel consumption (because of higher friction);<br />
<br />
<br />
However, these two disadvantages are more than compensated by the following:<br />
* Significantly improved comfort;<br />
* Significantly reduced vehicle vibrations/stress;<br />
** By the way, increased tyre wear can be considered an issue only if you keep driving on-road (slowly) with reduced tyre air pressures for long distances.<br />
** What is cheaper:<br />
*** To spend a bit more fuel and to replace the tyres more often due to increased tread wear when driving off-road?<br />
*** To replace suspension components (and tooth fillings) more often due to excessive vibrations?<br />
<br />
<br />
When tyre air pressure is reduced quite significantly (say 40% or more), two special risks emerge:<br />
* Dislodging (dismounting) the tyre from the wheel when turning sharply during relatively high vehicle velocity;<br />
** This is because the air inside the tyre actually holds the tyre pressed onto the wheel rims.<br />
** With significantly reduced air pressure, the holding force is much smaller, and it is more easily defeated with significant side-cornering forces.<br />
* Turning the wheel without turning the tyre (the wheel turns along its rotational axis);<br />
** This usually happens when a sudden high torque is applied ("stomping" the throttle "''fast'n'furious''" style).<br />
** The wheel literally "slips" inside the tyre.<br />
** The tyre usually still stays on the wheel, with minimum to no air loss during the incident.<br />
*** However, if wheel balancing weights had been used to balance that wheel, the wheel balancing will be spoiled afterwards (because the correlation of the wheel balancing weights to the tyre has been skewed).<br />
** This incident is usually not noticeable when it happens, but the wheel disbalance which it causes certainly will be!<br />
*** If wheel balancing beads (pellets) had been used to balance that wheel, than wheel balancing will not be affected.<br />
* So, the point is that you should not drive sharply when air pressures are significantly reduced, and you should not have an issue.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Dependency of tyre pressures on axle load ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Required / recommended tyre pressure generally also changes with load (weight on the axle).<br />
** The heavier the load, the more pressure (air quantity in the tyres) on that axle is required to carry it.<br />
* For almost any vehicle, manufacturers specify different tyre pressures for different loads.<br />
** For example - with the driver only, with full passengers with cargo, when towing a trailer, with loaded cargo bay, etc.<br />
* For all Jimnys (as far as it is known), Suzuki has not specified different tyre pressures for empty and laden conditions.<br />
** That is probably because all Jimny generations have such a small load rating (for Jimny 3, cca 300 kg at most - roughly 150 kg per axle!) that it does not matter that much.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Specific tyre pressures for Jimnys ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* For Jimny 3, the factory recommended on-road tyre pressure for stock size tyres (<font face="Courier">'''205 / 70 / R15'''</font>) is <font face="Courier">'''1,6 bar'''</font> front and <font face="Courier">'''1,8 bar'''</font> rear.<br />
** Some Jimny owners even the tyre pressures to <font face="Courier">'''1,7 bar'''</font> on all four tyres, for simplicity.<br />
* For Jimny 4, the factory recommended on-road tyre pressure for stock size tyres (<font face="Courier">'''195 / 80 / R15'''</font>) is <font face="Courier">'''1,8 bar'''</font> front and <font face="Courier">'''1,9 bar'''</font> rear.<br />
* When driving on gravel roads or general off road, it is completely fine (and even advisable) to reduce the tyre pressure by <font face="Courier">'''25-30%'''</font> to <font face="Courier">'''1,25-1,15 bar'''</font> (for Jimny 3) or to <font face="Courier">'''1,40-1,30 bar'''</font> (for Jimny 4).<br />
** The difference in ride quality is '''astonishing''', while the traction is significantly improved.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Effect of tyre size on tyre pressures ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* When using tyres which are larger than stock size, all (both on-road and off-road) tyre pressures should be reduced from the above written numbers.<br />
** Because it is the air itself (air molecules) that carries all the weight, the concept is to always have the same number of air molecules in the tyre for certain road and load conditions.<br />
* The larger the tyre, the '''more''' air molecules fit inside for the '''same''' tyre pressure.<br />
** So, to achieve the presence of the '''same''' number of air molecules in the tyre regardless of tyre size, a '''lower''' tyre pressure has to be used with a '''larger''' tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is no simple formula for calculating how much the on-road (and implicitly off-road) tyre pressure should be reduced with certain larger tyre sizes.<br />
** This topic is still under investigation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Tyre air pressure measurement, inflation and deflation ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Measurement ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is compulsory to carry a good quality tyre pressure measurement tool.<br />
* It is best to buy products for which there is some verified good customer feedback.<br />
** Example is when browsing on Amazon web stores, which have the integrated system of customer opinions on products which are on sale.<br />
*** Don't just glance over the "feedback stars" - read a few meaningful opinions!<br />
**** Reason: many people give a certain product "five stars" just because it was delivered quickly and the packaging was nice and shiny!<br />
** Other source of customer feedback on certain products can be from various Internet forums.<br />
<br />
<br />
The choice of an analogue vs. a digital pressure measurement tool comes down to this:<br />
* Analogue ones are larger and also more sensitive to shocks (if you drop them for example);<br />
* Digital ones are usually easier to read;<br />
** This is especially important during night time;<br />
*** That is when a digital tool with illuminated display really comes in handy;<br />
* Digital ones usually use batteries.<br />
** Some use non-replaceable batteries, meaning that, once the battery is depleted, the tool is wasted.<br />
** Since all batteries perform poorly in cold weather, a relatively weak battery can render a digital tool non-functional in cold weather;<br />
* Analogue tools are much less sensitive to cold/heat and also to getting wet.<br />
* Some analogue tools also have an "air release" valve, enabling tyre deflation to be performed while monitoring the air pressure in real time.<br />
<br />
<br />
Conclusion: It is best to have one analogue and one digital tool, to back-up one another.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Inflation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is also very desirable to have your own portable 12 V air compressor.<br />
** Portable 12 V air compressors exist in various qualities, capabilities and prices.<br />
*** See more below.<br />
* There are also fixed in-car air compressor installations available, for very advanced users.<br />
*** You also get those as a factory fitment on many military vehicles and on the Mercedes G63 AMG 6x6.<br />
** The (expensive) ARB differential locker comes with its own air compressor to operate it.<br />
*** That air compressor can also be utilized for tyre inflation.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Two most important operational parameters of an air compressor are:<br />
# The volume of air (in litres) per minute that it pumps.<br />
#* If you haven't figured out yet what that means, this translates to how fast it is.<br />
# For how long can it work before it has to be turned off to cool itself (to avoid overheating).<br />
#* If this time is too short for your application, you will have to make a long pause just before inflating the 4th (final) tyre ...<br />
<br />
<br />
Other attributes of a portable air compressor to consider are:<br />
* The length of its power cable and the length of its air hose;<br />
** Too long cable and hose might not be that much desirable;<br />
*** It takes more work to untangle and to store them, and they take up more space when stored.<br />
* The way that the cable and the hose pack inside the compressor's housing (or around it);<br />
* Compressor's housing size and proportions;<br />
* If it has a practical and not too bulky case to store it in while it is not used;<br />
* Optional adapters for the air hose, to inflate bicycle tyres, balls, air mattresses, your butt or your ego ...<br />
* The presence of an analogue or a digital air pressure gauge (and its accuracy);<br />
** Also if the gauge is back-illuminated or not;<br />
* If it has an air release button or valve;<br />
** It enables you to deflate the tyre while the compressor is connected to it;<br />
*** This is useful if you accidentally over-inflate a tyre;<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you want to get a cheap, but good quality portable 12V tyre air compressor, try asking around at vehicle junkyards.<br />
* They might have OEM portable 12V tyre air compressors extracted from some dead commercial vehicles (usually vans).<br />
** Some commercial vehicles were initially sold with such tools as additional equipment together with a standard wheel jack, triangle, tow rope, etc.<br />
*** Such air compressors get seldom if ever used during their lifetime.<br />
* Therefore, an (almost) unused Mercedes, Peugeot, Toyota or Iveco etc. OEM air compressor might be just the right deal.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres can be inflated at many fuel filling stations too.<br />
** It is recommended do to so whenever there is a fuel filling station with an air compressor nearby.<br />
*** Reason: their equipment is usually much quicker than portable personal air compressors.<br />
* However, pressure measurement instruments at fuel filling stations ''generally'' should not be trusted, as they could be '''wildly''' inaccurate!<br />
** There are local exceptions of course, but this is a general rule.<br />
* So, use the air compressors at fuel filling stations for speed, but check the outcome with your trusted pressure measurement gauge.<br />
** Trusting that a publicly (ab)used pressure measurement instrument at a fuel filling station is accurate is like trusting that a prostitute has no STD.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Deflation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyre deflation can simply be done by the stone age era method - using sticks and stones.<br />
* There are various cheap and expensive tools, which enable ''fast'' and/or ''controlled'' tyre deflation.<br />
** The quality and usefulness of those tools vary widely.<br />
* However, both the speed and control aspects, which some of those tools provide, can be achieved by other (free) means.<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding deflation speed:<br />
* Since tyres on all Jimny generations are relatively small (compared to most 4WD vehicles), the practice has shown that using the stone age method is generally not much slower than with the advanced tools.<br />
** In other words, the time savings provided by most tyre deflation tools are hardly worth the cost and effort on such relatively small tyres.<br />
* Employing a passenger to deflate two tyres in parallel with you (using sticks and stones) is almost as fast as using most of those tools.<br />
** Just tell them that there ain't no free 4WD ride - they have to break some sweat for it!<br />
* Also beware that the method, by which all of those "fast" deflators achieve their speed, is by temporarily removing (dislodging) the valve core while they are attached to the valve.<br />
** This has two negative aspects:<br />
**# It wears the valve core, and after many such deflations, the valve core can become significantly worn and susceptible to failure;<br />
**#* When a valve core fails, your tyre will lose all air quicker than you can read this sentence;<br />
**# The deflation speed is so fast that it can easily over-deflate if you are not very well timed (or if the automatic deflation control is not super reliable);<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding controlled deflation:<br />
* First of all, the term "''controlled deflation''" means either:<br />
** To get an indication when the desired pressure reduction has been achieved (in order to manually stop further deflation);<br />
** To have the deflation process stop automatically when desired pressure reduction is achieved; <br />
* Many tyre air deflation tools promise one of those methods of controlled deflation.<br />
** However, beware that the reliability of their deflation control mechanisms can be questionable, even with the expensive products!<br />
* Luckily, there is a cheap (free) alternative method of controlled deflation, which simply uses your own brains.<br />
** The concept is based on the fact that, after several inflation-deflation iterations (while using a proper tyre air pressure measurement tool), you should be able to roughly determine how much time you need to deflate your tyres from your typical on-road tyre pressure to your typical off-road tyre pressure.<br />
*** For example, one experience says that it takes approximately <font face="Courier">'''25 seconds'''</font> to reduce a <font face="Courier">'''205 / 75 / R15'''</font> tyre's pressure from <font face="Courier">'''1,7 bar'''</font> to <font face="Courier">'''1,20-1,15 bar'''</font>.<br />
*** When you gain such experience, you won't have to stop the deflation and check the tyre pressure several times with the pressure measurement tools when deflating each tyre.<br />
**** In fact, your wrist watch will become your main tool.<br />
**** This way, you will be able to deflate your tyres in one go with solid certainty in the amount of achieved deflation.<br />
**** Your tyre air pressure measurement instrument will just serve you for eventually double-checking the outcome.<br />
<br />
<br />
However, there is one type of tyre air deflation tool which is certainly worthy of consideration:<br />
* It is a "dumb" die-cast, push-pin, screw-on-valve tyre deflator.<br />
** Such tools are usually the cheapest of them all.<br />
** They are super reliable as they have no moving parts.<br />
** As a matter of fact, they are usually a single-piece cast metal.<br />
*** It can't get more robust than that!<br />
* Such deflators simply push the tyre valve's pin in (as you would do with a stone) all the time while they are screwed onto the valve.<br />
** This lets the air out of the tyre at the same rate (speed) as you would with a stone, until you unscrew them.<br />
*** So they are harmless to the valve, as they do not fiddle with the valve core to increase deflation speed, as all of the "super fast" deflators do.<br />
* In summary, these deflators do exactly the same thing as you would while pressing the valve pin with a stone, but in a more elegant manner.<br />
** They have no deflation control mechanisms, so the user must take care to unscrew them at the right time (to avoid over-deflation).<br />
* There are three advantages of this type of deflators over the stone age method:<br />
*# No need to crouch next to the tyre all the time during deflation;<br />
*# Also avoids having to endure the burst of freezing cold air from the tyre valve over your fingers all the time during deflation;<br />
*# If you are well organized and follow the timings, one person can deflate two tyres almost in parallel;<br />
*#* Тhis doubles the overall deflation speed and brings it practically on par as with the expensive fast tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
The procedure to perform an (almost) parallel two-tyre deflation with these tools:<br />
# First, you need two such deflators;<br />
#* They usually come in a set of four, so you'll even have spares.<br />
# Second, you need to know beforehand (from past experience) how much time is needed to perform the desired amount of deflation on your tyres.<br />
#* That time is the parameter "D";<br />
# Now, screw the 1st deflator onto the 1st tyre.<br />
#* Immediately note the current time on your watch;<br />
#** That time is the parameter "T1";<br />
# While the 1st tyre is being deflated, screw the 2nd deflator onto the 2nd tyre.<br />
#* Immediately note the current time on your watch;<br />
#** That time is the parameter "T2";<br />
#* If you are not being slow like a Jimny full of obese people, the time "T1+D" has not passed in the meantime.<br />
#* Now wait for the time "T1+D", and then unscrew the 1st tyre deflator.<br />
#* If you are not being clumsy like Suzuki's documentation writing bureaucrats, the time "T2+D" has not passed in the meantime.<br />
#* Wait for the time "T2+D", and then unscrew the 2nd tyre deflator.<br />
# Congratulations, you have successfully deflated two tyres almost in parallel.<br />
#* Be free to feel proud of yourself while every bystander looks at you and thinks you are a car-freak.<br />
# Now repeat the same procedure with the remaining two tyres.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Draper 22487 dumb tyre deflation tool - A01.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Draper 22487 tyre deflator, serving as an example of a useful and cost-effective tyre deflation tool]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
* An example of such a "dumb", die-cast, "push-pin", "screw-on-valve" tyre deflator is [https://www.drapertools.com/product/22487/Expert-TPMS-Valve-Deflator-Tool Draper 22487].<br />
* While it says "TPMS" in the product's marketing name, there is nothing specific to TPMSes about it.<br />
** It does not require the presence of a TPMS system in a vehicle and it has no modes of operation or deflation control or whatever.<br />
** It is plainly dumb as a rock.<br />
* The price on manufacturer's website is unrealistically high for some reason (currently around 28 GBP), while it sells for a few pounds on most 3rd party web stores.<br />
* Forum user Bosanek has had excellent experience with this particular tool.<br />
* However there are other such products of the same type in the market.<br />
** Find and buy one of your own choice.<br />
*** Since they are a dumb die-cast single-piece of metal, they all have the same quality and performance.<br />
**** You can't go wrong with any of them!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel theft ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Wheels on Jimnys, especially alloy wheels, are interesting targets for theft just like on any other vehicle model.<br />
* One example is when someone needs one good wheel to replace their own damaged wheel or tyre.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read more on how to protect against wheel theft in '''[[Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts]]''' wiki article.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel balancing ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
All Jimny generations, as all vehicles with solid front axle suspensions, are susceptible of developing a "death wobble" vibration at a certain speed range.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read more about death wobble in '''[[Death Wobble]]''' wiki article.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
Since wheel disbalance can easily cause death wobble, you need to take additional considerations in order to balance your wheels properly.<br />
<br />
You can educate yourself about wheel balancing issues at the dedicated chapter "Wheel balancing" of the above mentioned death wobble wiki page: '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel balancing|Wheel balancing]]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel damages and repairs ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* In the context of this chapter, the term "''wheel''" refers to the entire metallic wheel/rim on which a rubber road tyre is mounted (without the tyre).<br />
* It is not unusual for a wheel to become damaged.<br />
* Generally, the risk is higher when driving on unpaved roads or off road.<br />
** For example on rough gravel roads or on rocky terrain.<br />
* However, the damage can occur even on a promenade.<br />
** For example when hitting a street curb or a pothole on the road.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on wheel (mis)alignment ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Forces sustained by strong wheel impacts or excessive vibrations can also cause the suspension / steering system to lose proper alignment.<br />
** Misaligned front suspension and steering system will cause improper steering.<br />
*** This means inaccurate self centering of the steering wheel, vehicle not going straight when the steering wheel is straight, excessive tyre wear, etc.<br />
** Misaligned front suspension and steering system can also cause '''[[Death Wobble|Death wobble]]'''. <br />
* In case of wheel misalignment, wheel re-alignment has to be performed in a professional workshop.<br />
** Read the chapter '''[[Death Wobble#Wheel alignment|Wheel alignment]]''' in the Death Wobble wiki article for some details about the process.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Types of wheel damages and repairs ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Scratches ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Wheels can get scratched, causing steel wheel to rust and alloy ones to lose appeal.<br />
** However, scratches do not present structural damage, so they are not given much attention in this article.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Bents ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The mildest (and most often) type of structural wheel damage is a '''b'''ent.<br />
* Bents cause the wheels to become warped.<br />
** Warped wheels cause rotational disbalance.<br />
*** Rotational wheel+tyre assembly disbalance is one of the most common causes of the '''[[Death Wobble]]''' phenomenon.<br />
* It is not always possible to detect a warped wheel, even to the trained eyes.<br />
** Professional measurement machinery is sometimes necessary.<br />
* In many cases of warped wheels, wheel+tyre assembly balancing measures can not compensate for the bent(s).<br />
** The distortions have to be remedied first.<br />
* Most ordinary wheel balancing machines can't even detect the warps.<br />
** That is because most of them measure the disbalance in only one plane of motion (longitudinal), and not the transverse "jerking" forces.<br />
** Such machines would complete the balancing process on a warped wheel just fine, and everything would appear to be perfectly balanced (according to the measurements of those machines).<br />
*** In reality, the wheel still (sometimes invisibly) wobbles from side to side while rotating.<br />
** There are specialized workshops and machines which can detect and correct the wheel bents, and therefore straighten the wheels (both the steel and alloy ones).<br />
* Only after those wheel straightening measures are applied, it makes sense to perform wheel+tyre assembly balancing.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Dents ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The medium type of structural wheel damage is a '''d'''ent.<br />
* Dents are usually obviously visible (if you care to look).<br />
* You should occasionally check your wheels for dents, scratches and mud/grit deposits from the inner side.<br />
** That is the side which is facing the brake disc / brake drum when the wheel is mounted.<br />
* A significant dent on a rim will usually be instantly noticeable.<br />
** Reason: it will allow the air to leak out from the tyre faster than you can fart when you least expect to.<br />
* Dents have a higher tendency to appear on steel wheels than on alloy wheels.<br />
** Dents on steel wheels are typically quite easy to repair.<br />
** Dents on alloy wheels are typically relatively difficult to repair (but more or less possible for sufficiently qualified and equipped servicemen).<br />
* After a wheel dent is repaired, the wheel should definitely be checked for distortions throughout (see the preceding chapter).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cracks ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The most extreme type of structural damage is a cracked or shattered wheel.<br />
** Steel wheels rarely, if ever, crack or shatter - they usually crunch.<br />
** Alloy wheels are more susceptible to cracking or shattering.<br />
*** The required force to cause an alloy wheel to crack or shatter is usually quite extreme (if good quality wheels are used).<br />
* Some specialized workshops can even mend (patch up) cracked and/or shattered wheels, even in most extreme cases.<br />
** An extreme case is when a wheel is brought to them as a collection of dozen pieces in a bag, and returned like it once used to be - at least visually.<br />
* The answer to the question "whether a mended cracked or shattered wheel will structurally be able to perform its intended duty (and be without any uncorrectable distortions)" is for you to ''discover''.<br />
** In this situation, you might be better off to buy a Land Rover ''Discovery'' (but without cracked wheels).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Additional considerations ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Importance of tyre profile ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The risk for any of these wheel damage types generally increases with lower profile tyres, and vice versa (less risk with higher profile tyres).<br />
*# Reason 1: With lower profile tyres, wheels are closer to the ground, and smaller rocks can reach them.<br />
*# Reason 2: With lower profile tyres, there is much less "cushioning" (damping) capacity in tyre's sidewalls when they hit a pothole, curb or a rock, leaving it on the rigid wheel to handle most of the shock.<br />
* Therefore, for general mixed terrain or off road use, '''higher profile''' tyres ("taller" tyres) are always more recommended over lower profile ones.<br />
** Higher profile tyres provide other additional benefits for all terrain use.<br />
*** Read the chapter [[#Tyre profiles|"Tyre profiles"]] for more information.<br />
* Now you start to get the idea why the 21st century breed of city-terrain steroid-pumped 4WD vehicles with factory-styled oversized wheels and low profile tyres are utterly absurd in the basic concept.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Importance of tyre air pressure ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Beware that the risk of wheel damage increases when the tyre air pressure is too high or too low.<br />
* When the tyre air pressure is too high, the tyre will be too stiff, having the following consequences:<br />
*# It will translate most (if not all) of the vibrations and shock loads to the wheel (and further on to suspension and steering components, the rest of the vehicle, up to your kidneys and teeth).<br />
*# It will not deform gently around a rough or sharp object (rough gravel, rocks, etc.) instead "attacking" it stiffly head on.<br />
*#* In such a clash, the tyre usually loses by having a piece of its tread torn off.<br />
* "Too high" tyre air pressure generally means higher than factory-recommended on-road tyre pressures.<br />
** The only reason to ever use too high tyre air pressures is if you want to cure your stone kidney disease. <br />
<br />
<br />
* When the tyre air pressure is too low, there is not enough air quantity inside to handle/cushion the '''sudden''' shock loads.<br />
** This leaves the wheel as the "first point of impact".<br />
* The "suddeness" of the shock load directly depends on the velocity of the vehicle.<br />
** Therefore, driving with partially deflated tyres is not a problem, as long as vehicle's speed is correspondingly reduced according to the terrain conditions.<br />
*** The lower the pressure, the slower the speed!<br />
* Read the chapter [[#Tyre pressures|"Tyre pressures"]] for more information on tyre air pressures.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tyre damages and repairs ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen1|}}{{Gen2|}}{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tyres are the most vulnerable part of a vehicle, and they definitely endure the most harshness when the vehicle is driven in all-terrain conditions.<br />
* To appreciate the role and life of your tyres, imagine or try running bare-footed on the same terrain where you drive on.<br />
* Tyres can sustain several types of damage, and not every type is instantly noticeable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Educate yourself more about tyre punctures and repairs through [https://rma.org/sites/default/files/prp_wallchart1111_0.pdf '''this article'''] from USA's Rubber Manufacturer Association and through [https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-repair '''this article and video'''] from the international Tire Industry Association.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Types of tyre damages and repairs ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Tread puncture ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* This is the most well known and classic tyre damage.<br />
* Tread surface, in the context of tread puncture repair, is considered to be the central 3/4s of the side of the tyre which regularly contacts the ground.<br />
** The remaining outer sections of the ground contact area are called "shoulder area".<br />
* For the predominant radial tyres, general tyre industry convention is that this shoulder area falls in the category of "tyre sidewall" considering puncture repair options (see below).<br />
* A tread puncture can happen either as a (more or less) round pierce (for example a nail), or as a cut (for example a large piece of glass).<br />
* Most tread punctures (if not overly large) can be successfully and permanently repaired by professionals in tyre repair workshops.<br />
<br />
<br />
* For a tread puncture repair to be proper and permanent, the tyre '''must''' be demounted from the wheel first, and the repair performed from the '''inside''' of the tyre.<br />
* The best type of a tread puncture repair is when two methods are combined - a plug (stem) and a patch.<br />
** Both of those repair methods should be performed from the inside of the tyre.<br />
* Applying just a plug or just a patch is not proper, but many "professional" tyre servicemen are lazy and just do one of the two.<br />
** Persuade them to use both (first plug, then patch)!<br />
*** If talking does not work, then money usually does.<br />
* A plug repair is when the punctured hole or cut is drilled through to clean it, and then a rubber strip (+ a glue cure) is inserted into the hole.<br />
* A patch repair is when a piece of rubber is glued onto the surface, and then "cooked" for a while to vulcanize (fuse) with the surface on which it is applied.<br />
<br />
<br />
* "Plug type" DIY tyre repair kits exist from infinite number of manufacturers, and they cost only a few coins.<br />
** They are handy to carry in the trunk, as they can be used for DIY "on the field" repair of tyre tread punctures.<br />
* However, using '''just''' a plug repair from the '''outside''' of the tyre (without demounting it from the wheel first) should be done only in an emergency when no other options are available.<br />
** It should be considered as a temporary measure until you get a first proper opportunity to have the tyre demounted, the old (temporary) plug drilled out, and the tyre properly repaired as described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Using (recently) much advertized aerosol/liquid/gel tyre filler solutions is '''highly discouraged'''!<br />
* Those solutions are typically held in pressurized cans, which you connect to the tyre inflation valve and then spray the aerosol/liquid/gel inside the tyre.<br />
** The solution then spreads through the tyre and (in theory) plugs the puncture while you are pumping the tyre up.<br />
* Even if this succeeds, it is strictly a temporary measure just to get you out of the situation.<br />
* In most cases, tyres which have been treated with these liquid fillers can not be properly repaired afterwards.<br />
** Reason: The liquid has hardened all throughout the inside of the tyre and made a complete mess, especially regarding balancing.<br />
*** Cleaning all the hardened aerosol/liquid/gel out requires '''a lot''' of labor effort and cost.<br />
**** The cost of cleaning is usually more than half the value of a new tyre.<br />
* This renders your "temporarily repaired" tyre practically '''permanently ruined'''.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall puncture ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Sidewall puncture is the nastiest type of tyre damage.<br />
** Unfortunately, the risk of sidewall punctures is generally the highest when performing all terrain driving.<br />
* A sidewall puncture can happen either as a more or less round pierce (for example a nail), but much more often as a cut (for example a piece of a tree branch sticking out from the ground).<br />
* For the predominant radial tyres, general tyre industry convention is that '''any''' damage in the sidewall area '''can not''' be successfully repaired.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=640 heights=360 class=center caption="Examples of tyre sidewall punctures"><br />
Tyre sidewall damage - A01.jpg|Multiple damages in one picture<br />
Tyre sidewall damage - B01.jpg|A relatively small but terminal damage<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
* However, there are tyre repair workshops which can repair sidewall damage on radial tyres, even in extreme damage cases.<br />
** Those are typically the same workshops which produce remoulded (retreaded) tyres, since the process of repairing a tyre sidewall is in some aspects similar to retreading a tyre.<br />
* The method of repairing tyre "shoulders" and sidewalls is called "section repair".<br />
** In short, the section repair consists of cutting out the damaged area, filling it with special raw rubber, then applying special (reinforced) patches from the inside, together with some special glues, and cooking (vulcanizing) all that with the sidewall for extended period of time, in a very similar process as when retreading a tyre.<br />
** The reinforced patches contain nets of some strong material (kevlar, titanium, etc. or hairs from Arabian horse tails) and require special raw rubber made from frog balls or from salmon sperm, with specially tailored glue made from bird milk or whatever to properly fuse with the tyre.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Sidewall section repairs are typically applied to heavy duty tyres which are used on tractors, industrial machines and heavy-duty trucks which work in forestry, construction sites, excavation sites etc.<br />
* Sidewall section repairs have proven to be successful on much smaller and lighter tyres used on all-terrain vehicles.<br />
** However, it is (in most cases) highly discouraged to use such tyres on the road - restrict to using them '''off road only'''!<br />
** If you have to venture out on the road, keep the speed '''under''' cca '''40-50 km/h''' ('''25-30 mph''')!<br />
<br />
<br />
* General observation of tyre repair workshops (which perform these kinds of repairs) is that AT class and MT class all terrain tyres are much better suited to performing this kind of sidewall puncture repair than ordinary limousine road tyres.<br />
** The reason is that AT class and especially MT class tyres have certain degree of robustness and reinforcements as a part of their overall construction (aiding the infusion of the patch), while ordinary limousine road tyres have barely anything to "cling on to".<br />
<br />
<br />
* If a tyre sidewall repair fails later on, it usually fails suddenly (instantly) and catastrophically.<br />
** You '''do not''' want that to happen while your velocity is high!<br />
* If a tyre sidewall repair fails later on in a tricky off roading situation (undulated terrain, steep or sloped terrain, rocks, mud, shit, etc.) raising the vehicle to replace the wheel might turn into a grand project on itself.<br />
** "High lift" jacks are typically used to raise the vehicle in these difficult conditions, but Jimny 3 '''des not''' have suitable lifting points below the factory front and rear bumpers, and barely suitable ones on the sides!<br />
*** Suitability of Jimny 1, 2 and 4 for lifting with a high lift jack is unknown - add info here if you know something!<br />
<br />
<br />
Educate yourself more about tyre section repairs through [http://www.techtirerepairs.com/content/documents/RM-9---Radial-Truck-Sidewall-Repair-w-Mult-Cable-Damage-1.pdf this] and [http://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311921/knowing-what-not-to-repair this] article.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall bulge ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A bulge usually occurs on a tyre's sidewall.<br />
* The cause of a bulge can either be:<br />
** A rather heavy sudden shock load (for example hitting a street curb or a big pothole at speed);<br />
** A deficiency in the tyre itself (very hard to prove);<br />
* A bulge on a tyre means that its internal structure (cords, plies, etc.) has disintegrated in that section of the tyre.<br />
* Bulges are relatively hard to spot.<br />
** Reason: they do not leak air and you usually have to take a good look at the tyre to notice them, especially if the bulge is on the side of the tyre which faces vehicle's underbody.<br />
* Bulges are one of the main reasons why you should occasionally visually inspect all your tyres from both sides.<br />
* A bulge, if it's sufficiently large, can disturb wheel's balance.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Bulges are much more dangerous than they appear!<br />
** They usually don't affect the operation of the tyre, and no air leaks through them.<br />
*** Because of this, even when they get noticed, they are usually not taken that seriously;<br />
**** ''"The tyre still serves just fine, doesn't it?"'';<br />
* However, when a bulge finally fails, it usually bursts suddenly and catastrophically!<br />
** You do not want that to happen to you when the vehicle's velocity is high!<br />
* Bulges usually fail at high speeds or at a next rough impact (street curbs, big potholes, hard gravel, etc.).<br />
** When a bulge fails on a front tyre at high speed, you'll suddenly get into a wrestling match with your steering wheel.<br />
** When a bulge fails on a rear tyre at high speed, you'll most probably get a spectacular theatrical movie-style rollover, with you in the best seat to experience it in full HD vision with surround 3D sound.<br />
<br />
<br />
* If the size of the bulge is quite small (approximately like a button on a shirt or a small coin), it can usually be treated so it does not expand and get worse from then on.<br />
** Such a tyre should be usable, but vehicle's speed should be limited to approximately '''80 km/h''' ('''45 mph''') just to be safe!<br />
* However, if the bulge is relatively large (like half of a finger or larger), it's a "FUBAR" case ("f**** up beyond repair").<br />
** Such a tyre '''should''' be discarded, or vehicle's speed kept under '''40-50 km/h''' ('''25-30 mph'''), while being prepared for the burst at any time!<br />
* It is best to consult a well reputed tyre repair specialist to assess your own case.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Sidewall indentation ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* A tyre might have a "vertical" indentation in a its sidewall (vertical means that the indentation runs orthogonally across the sidewall, from the bead to the tread of the tyre).<br />
* If the indentation is present from when the tyre was new (ever since it was mounted on the wheel and inflated for the first time), then it is typically a "feature".<br />
** It is a place where the internal plies and the cords of the sidewall overlap.<br />
** In that case, there is nothing to worry about, as such an indentation is not a weak spot in tyre's construction.<br />
* However, if you notice an indentation in the sidewall of your tyre in mid-use, and you are not certain if it was there since the tyre was new, you should have the tyre inspected by a reputable tyre repair specialist, just to be safe.<br />
<br />
{{note|Reference for the explanation of the nature of indentations in tyre's sidewall is [http://www.continental-tyres.co.za/car/technology/tyre-knowledge/lex-1-4 this article on Continental's web site].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cuts ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Chips ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Disintegration ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Cracking ====<br />
<br />
<br />
To be written ...<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=9995
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T09:43:48Z
<p>Bosanek: Minor phrase corrections</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-piece set instead of a five-piece set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-piece set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-piece set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG <font face="Courier">82 92 7058</font> (see below).<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103</font> is a four-nut set.<br />
#* Model <font face="Courier">LN103/5</font> is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein <font face="Courier">27058</font> (see above).<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=9994
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T09:41:16Z
<p>Bosanek: Typos</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-piece set instead of a five-piece set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-piece set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
#* This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
#** It's a pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-piece set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG 82 92 7058 (see below).<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* LN103 is a four-nut set.<br />
#* LN103/5 is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein 27058 (see above).<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=9993
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T09:37:32Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a list of compatible aftermarket security nuts</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-piece set instead of a five-piece set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-piece set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
* The un/locking tool should be compatible with 19 mm hex socket wrenches.<br />
** Most of them are, with some being dual 17 mm / 19 mm compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is exceptionally difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* The only disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts come with hex-alike caps, so that they on a first glance appear like regular plain wheel nuts.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are closed-ended and some are open-ended.<br />
* This means if the end of the nut toward the outside world is open (so that you can see the stud bolt through it when bolted on) or if it is closed.<br />
* Closed ended is better to prevent crud / mud build up in the nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Some nuts are "tuner type":<br />
* Such nuts are narrower than regular nuts and are usually of design B.<br />
* They are meant for aftermarket wheels which have narrower holes for the wheel studs than OEM wheels.<br />
** A regular nut could not be used with such wheels, as there would be no space for the wrench or the un/locking tool to fit around the nut.<br />
* Internet literature generally suggests NOT to use tuner type nuts with OEM wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Compatible locking wheel nut products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) the following locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicurit".<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
** Four-nut set.<br />
** Design C - the premium model.<br />
#* Suzuki's market name of this product is "Sicustar".<br />
** This product was used by forum user Bosanek and it is very high quality, made in Italy.<br />
*** Pity that it does not have a 5th nut.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market (in alphabetical order):<br />
# Evo5 (also known as Evo MK5) model 479/5<br />
#* Design C.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Allegedly also a five-piece set exists, but [https://www.evoautomotive.com manufacturer's web site] contains very little data about anything.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/27058 Febi Bilstein 27058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as SWAG 82 92 7058 (see below).<br />
# [http://www.grayston.biz/wltechspecpage.htm Grayston LN103 and LN103/5]<br />
#* LN103 is a four-nut set.<br />
#* LN103/5 is a five-nut set!<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1343-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html Heyner StilBull 650]<br />
#* Precise model name: <font face="Courier">856670(DGI)</font><br />
#** Model <font face="Courier">[https://heynershop.co.uk/locking-wheel-nuts-bolts/1387-set-of-4-wheel-locking-nuts-m12x125-key-5060001601403.html 856670(R)]</font> should also be compatible.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
# [https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/SWAG/82%2092%207058 SWAG 82 92 7058].<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Identical product as Febi Bilstein 27058 (see above).<br />
# [https://www.wolfrace.co.uk/accessories Wolfrace AC-005]<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
#* The suitability of this product for Jimnys is not confirmed.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{note|The above list is incomplete.<br>Add other compatible manufacturers and models if you find them.<br>In theory, any wheel nuts which conform to the [[#Wheel nut specifications|specifications]] from this article will suit.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Locking_(anti-theft)_wheel_nuts&diff=9992
Locking (anti-theft) wheel nuts
2023-02-09T07:27:42Z
<p>Bosanek: Brand new article</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Other people's automotive wheels and tyres are on many thieves' list of desirable items to take possession of.<br />
* Another case when someone may want to steal a wheel and/or tyre from your car is when their wheel or tyre gets damaged.<br />
* Even Jimny wheels get stolen, usually for the second motive described above.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, a suitable anti-theft protection for the wheels is highly recommended.<br />
* That protection means to have at least one locking / security (anti-theft) wheel nut installed per wheel, including the spare wheel.<br />
* As a matter of fact, the spare wheel might be the first target of a thief, as it is by far easier and quicker to remove from the car than any of the road wheels.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The problem is that most locking / security wheel nut products on the market come in sets of four.<br />
** Five-nut sets are uncommon.<br />
* Therefore, if you obtain a four-piece set instead of a five-piece set, it might be more logical to install one locking nut onto the spare wheel at the cost of omitting one road wheel.<br />
** Forum user Bosanek made a mistake of omitting the spare wheel instead with his four-piece set (in order to protect all four road wheels), and learned the hard way later on why that was a mistake ...<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wheel nut specifications ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not all wheel nuts are compatible with every vehicle.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimnys require wheel nuts (not bolts!) with specifications <font face="Courier">M12 x 1.25.</font><br />
** The 1st number represents the wheel stud bolt thickness in millimeters.<br />
** The 2nd number represents how coarse the bolt / nut thread is.<br />
* The wheel nut should be tapered at 60 degrees on its end which goes towards the wheel hub.<br />
* The height / length of the wheel nut should be at least 30 mm.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of locking wheel nuts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Regarding their security design, there are generally three types of locking wheel nuts.<br />
# '''Design A''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the outside of the nut.<br />
#* This is the most common and generally the cheapest design.<br />
#* The major disadvantage of this design is that a skilled thief may be able to undo the nut using forcible methods (heavy duty pliers etc.) because the outside grooves on the nut allow them to get a very good grip on the nut.<br />
# '''Design B''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut. The outside of the nut is a plain barrel.<br />
#* This type of nut is more difficult to forcibly undo with pliers etc., as the "plain barrel" outside shape of the nut does not allow a very good grip to be obtained.<br />
# '''Design C''' - the grooves on the nut (for the unlocking tool to bite on during un/locking) are positioned on the inside of the nut (as in design B). Additionally, the outside surface of the nut is a freely rotatable ring.<br />
#* This is typically the most expensive design because of the freely rotatable outside ring.<br />
#* This type of nut is very difficult if not impossible to remove using forcible methods.<br />
#* A disadvantage of this design is if you lose or damage the un/locking tool.<br />
#** In that case, it will be quite difficult and/or expensive to remove the locking nuts even at specialist workshops where they typically offer forcible locking nut removal services.<br />
#** However, if you buy brand name locking wheel nuts, you should be able to order replacement matching un/locking tool from the manufacturer if you still have the original key code which you had received with your locking nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Locking wheel nuts products ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki sells (or used to sell) four locking wheel nut models for Jimnys 3:<br />
# <font face="Courier">00800-63242-000</font><br />
#* Design A.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* An older model, offered for example in Suzuki's catalogue <font face="Courier">99F00-20M21-001</font> from year 2006.<br />
# <font face="Courier">99000-990Y7-013</font><br />
#* Appears to be design B.<br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J49-000</font><br />
#* Four-nut set.<br />
#* Appears to be design A.<br />
# <font face="Courier">990E0-59J47-000</font><br />
** Design C - the premium model.<br />
** Four-nut set.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suitable known aftermarket products on the British market:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Regular_maintenance_intervals_and_consumables&diff=9986
Regular maintenance intervals and consumables
2022-10-17T13:14:38Z
<p>Bosanek: Typo</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article contains precise information about required specifications and quantities of consumables used during regular vehicle maintenance, as well as regular maintenance intervals.<br />
** Please ensure that this information applies to your specific vehicle and country, as variations can occur.<br />
<br />
{{warning|No guarantee is given for the accuracy of any data presented in this article!}}<br />
{{note|Before you drain any fluid, '''first''' check if the filler plug, screw or cap for that fluid can be completely removed.<br>Sometimes it can't be unscrewed due to age or curse!<br>You do not want to end up stranded with a drained system which you can not refill!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* Because Jimnys 3 have been in production for 20 years, and in various revisions and editions, there are several consumables specification tables, depending on a particular vehicle edition.<br />
* If you want to be absolutely certain about the exact fluid specifications for your particular vehicle, the required fluid specifications and quantities are written in the owner's manual.<br />
<br />
{{note|If you don't have the original owner's manual for your particular vehicle, you can determine the name of the correct manual in the wiki page [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and Owners Guides'''"]].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes for new owners of second-hand Jimnys ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
If you recently bought a second-hand Jimny and you are not confident in its service history, change '''ALL''' fluids and filters, the sooner the better.<br />
All fluids and filters stated below should be periodically changed anyway.<br />
<br />
<br />
This means oils in:<br />
* engine;<br />
* front axle;<br />
* rear axle;<br />
* gear box;<br />
* transfer box;<br />
* power steering;<br />
* brakes;<br />
* air conditioning compressor oil and coolant (if AC is fitted);<br />
* don't forget the engine coolant as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
Filters are:<br />
* engine oil filter;<br />
* engine air intake filter;<br />
* [[Cabin filter change|cabin (pollen, air conditioning) filter]];<br />
* fuel filter for DDiS (diesel) Jimnys;<br />
<br />
<br />
It is also advised to change all engine belts (and accompanying tensioners if applicable) and also visually check upon spark plugs in petrol engines.<br />
<br />
<br />
== General awareness about proper fluid and filter selection ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Beware that selecting a '''suitable / properly matching''' fluid and filter (oil, coolant, etc.) is '''vital''' for the longevity of the mechanical systems which use those fluids!<br />
** For example, the longevity of the engine, gearbox, etc. is highly dependent on what exact oil type is used.<br />
* Using a high quality fluid from a good manufacturer is one thing, but equally as important is using a '''properly matching''' type of fluid.<br />
** However, selecting a '''properly matching''' fluid type can be a rather tricky endeavor, as there can be ''significant'' differences among seemingly unimportant specification details.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read the wiki article [[Fluids and filters - proper selection|"'''Fluids and filters - proper selection'''"]] for full info including recommendations!}}<br />
<br />
{{note|If you are considering using some additives for the engine oil and/or for transmission oils, read the wiki article [[Oil additives (engine, transmission)|"'''Oil additives (engine, transmission)'''"]] first.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Regular maintenance not mentioned in official recommendations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The list below contains regular maintenance which is strongly advised to be practiced from common experience, and which is rarely (if at all) mentioned in the official vehicle documentation:<br />
# Road tyre rotation.<br />
#* Good practice is to do it during every engine oil change.<br />
#* This is actually properly explained in the official documentation, but is often overlooked, so here is another mention.<br />
# Checking tyre pressures regularly.<br />
# Underbody anti-rust protection.<br />
#* First time should be done thoroughly and as soon as possible after the vehicle leaves the factory, then regular checking and touch-up once a year.<br />
# Regular washing of the underbody, especially during winter.<br />
#* This should preferably be done a bit further away from home, so that the underbody can dry after the wash during the trip back home.<br />
# Use the 4WD system from time to time to check if it works and to prevent its parts from sticking or deteriorating due to chronic dormancy.<br />
# Cleaning or replacement of the [[Cabin filter change|cabin air filter]].<br />
# Waxing the painted body at least twice a year.<br />
# Filling up the car battery with distilled water before and after every summer.<br />
#* Applicable only if the battery has removable cell caps.<br />
# Using the hand brake at least once a month.<br />
#* There are people who never use it - this reminder is for them.<br />
# Cleaning and nourishing the seats at least twice a year.<br />
#* Applicable only if the seats are made of real or synthetic leather.<br />
# Putting fuel in before it gets to reserve level in the tank.<br />
# Driving off road at least once a month.<br />
# Getting stuck in snow or mud at least once a year.<br />
# Visiting this forum and wiki at least once a week. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Fluid specifications and replacement intervals ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Important common notes for all the tables ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes about tables' content ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities and specifications are direct copies from original Suzuki's user manuals.<br />
** Exceptions are stated OEM part numbers for all the filters and belts.<br />
*** These have been taken from Suzuki's online spare parts catalogue.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All replacement intervals are direct copies from original Suzuki's user manuals for '''normal driving conditions'''.<br />
* In some cases, this data has been supplemented with advised "practical" intervals from the "community / street experience" (in '''normal''' driving conditions).<br />
** In such cases, it is generally recommended to adhere to advised "practical" intervals instead to official factory intervals.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Notes for some tables below mention certain Jimny "types" (production model revisions).<br />
* To learn more about those types, and to determine to which type your Jimny belongs, read the wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides#Factory types by VINs|"'''Manuals and owner's guides (chapter about types)'''"]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes about severe driving conditions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Replacement intervals for many parts and fluids are significantly shorter if the vehicle ''regularly'' endures one or more driving conditions which are classified as '''"severe"'''.<br />
* In that case, you should consult your original Suzuki user manual (chapter 8 - "Inspection and maintenance"), which contains detailed info about shortened replacement intervals in severe driving conditions.<br />
* Many aspects of all-terrain driving fall under one or more classifications of "severe driving conditions"!<br />
<br />
<br />
There are several driving conditions which user manuals classify as "severe conditions":<br />
# Repeated short trips;<br />
# Driving on rough and/or muddy roads;<br />
# Driving on dusty roads;<br />
# Driving in extremely cold weather and/or salty roads;<br />
# Repeated short trips in extremely cold weather;<br />
# Leaded petrol fuel use;<br />
# Low quality diesel fuel use;<br />
# Towing a trailer (or otherwise working under heavy load);<br />
# Also, driving like an ignorant idiot.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not each type of condition is applicable to every fluid's or part's shortened replacement interval.<br />
* Read your factory user manual for full info!<br />
** If you don't have your factory user manual, the wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and owner's guides'''"]] contains info on how to obtain a matching copy.<br />
<br />
<br />
The replacement intervals of these parts and fluids are negatively affected by one or more severe driving conditions:<br />
* Engine air filter;<br />
* Engine oil and oil filter;<br />
* Manual gear box oil;<br />
* Automatic gear box oil;<br />
* Transfer gear box oil;<br />
* Differential oil (front);<br />
* Differential oil (rear);<br />
* Engine accessory drive belt(s);<br />
* Engine camshaft timing belt (and tensioner);<br />
* Spark plugs (nickel);<br />
* Spark plugs (iridium);<br />
* Diesel fuel filter;<br />
<br />
<br />
It might be shorter to list parts and fluids whose replacement intervals are '''not''' affected by any of the severe driving conditions:<br />
* Engine coolant;<br />
* Power steering fluid;<br />
* Brake fluid;<br />
* Petrol fuel filter;<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on engine air filter ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Engine air filter should officially be changed on every 3rd engine oil replacement (and air-blown during the intermediate ones).<br />
* However, driving in dusty or smoggy conditions can severely shorten air filter's service life.<br />
** Therefore, change the air filter more often (at least every 2nd engine oil change), by evaluating its condition.<br />
*** A dirty air filter causes lower engine power, higher fuel consumption and long term engine damage.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on cabin air filter ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The factory does not specify a regular replacement interval for the cabin air filter.<br />
** (It is also called "pollen" filter or "air conditioning" filter).<br />
* That is because a cabin air filter is unimportant for the vehicle.<br />
** It is a filter for the human respiratory system.<br />
* As far as the vehicle (and its manufacturer) is/are concerned, you do not need to change a cabin air filter ever.<br />
** You can even discard it and drive indefinitely without it.<br />
*** Many Jimnys don't even come with a cabin air filter installed from the factory!<br />
*** The (lack of) presence of a cabin air filter or its heavy dirtiness does not mechanically negatively affect anything in the vehicle. <br />
* However, if you value your health and therefore the longevity and quality of your only life, you should change the cabin air filter regularly too.<br />
** A sensible replacement interval might be every 20 000 km or two years - just guessing.<br />
*** Choose whichever replacement interval makes you feel responsible to yourself - perhaps on the basis of periodically removing the filter and checking its condition.<br />
* The wiki article [[Cabin filter change|'''"Cabin filter change"''']] contains all the required information (including part numbers) and a "how to" replacement guide.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on engine coolant ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For Jimny 3 types 1-4 (1998-2005), Suzuki did not place any specific requirements for the type of engine coolant during their production era, apart that it has to be ethylene-glycol based (98% of engine coolants are).<br />
* However, ever since Jimny 3 type 5 (produced in 2005) until the end of Jimny 3 production in 2018, Suzuki has added a clear warning in the user manuals that only '''silicate-free''' ethylene-glycol coolants should be used both in petrol and in diesel Jimnys 3.<br />
* To make the story short, it turned out that the manufacturer learned (through several years of experience) that ''silicated'' engine coolants do long term damage to its engines cooling systems.<br />
** Therefore, the requirement to use a '''non-silicated''' engine coolant should be "retroactively" applied to every Jimny 3 ever produced since 1998 (as is stated in all the tables below).<br />
*** Another thing which Suzuki does not mention explicitly, but rather implicitly (by strongly recommending its own genuine engine coolant to eliminate the risks of engine damage) is that the coolant should preferably also be phosphated and 2-EHA free.<br />
* All this high-tech babble is more thoroughly elaborated in the wiki article [[Fluids and filters - proper selection|'''"Fluids and filters - proper selection"''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Other notes ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Calculate miles from kilometers by dividing kilometers by 1.61.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with G13BB petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* G13BB engine has 59 kW / 80 HP of power and 1298 cm3 capacity.<br />
* All Jimnys 3 used this engine from year 1998 to year 2000/2001/2002 (depending on market), when G13BB engine was superseded with M13A engine.<br />
** However, G13BB engine was still used in many "cabrio" / soft top Jimnys 3 even until year 2005/2006.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|3.7 l ('1)<br>4.2 l ('2)<br />
|API SH or SJ ('3)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (normal climate)<br>or 5W-30 (cold climate)<br>or 10W-40 (hot climate)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|1.0 l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|160 000 km;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-4 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|0.7 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|4.5 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('4)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U<br>NGK BKR6E<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('5)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('5)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|V belt: 30 000 km or 2 years<br>V-rib belt: 90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 12761-70C00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|100 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) Official quantity specification for type 1 Jimnys 3 with G13BB engine;<br />
* ('2) Official quantity specification for type 2 Jimnys 3 with G13BB engine;<br />
* ('3) These are old, deprecated API engine oil classifications.<br />
** They have been superseded for a long time by any newer API S'''X''' classification where "X" is a "later" letter than J (like SL, SM, SN, etc.)<br />
* ('4) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('5) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with M13A (non-VVT) petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* M13A engine has 60 kW / 82 HP of power and 1328 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Engine capacity is the same as in the newer VVT edition, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2000/2001 (depending on market) and it was superseded with improved M13A VVT engine in year 2005/2006 (depending on market).<br />
** Most regular ("closed top" / "tin top") petrol Jimnys 3 used this engine in the specified time period, but many "cabrio" / "soft top" Jimnys 3 still used the older G13BB engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|API SJ or SL ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (normal climate)<br>or 5W-30 (cold climate)<br>or 10W-40 (hot climate)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|1.0 l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|165 000 km;<br>In practice: 75 000 km or 4-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|0.8 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|5.2 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('2)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U11<br>NGK BKR6E-11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, iridium<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso SK16PR-A11 ('3)<br>NGK IFR5E11 ('4)<br>NGK IFR6E11 ('5)<br>NGK IFR6J11 ('6)<br />
|With O2 sensor: 60 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('7)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('7)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) These are old, deprecated API engine oil classifications.<br />
** They have been superseded for a long time by any newer API S'''X''' classification where "X" is a "later" letter than L (like SM, SN, etc.)<br />
* ('2) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* Factory prefers iridium spark plugs, especially if the vehicle is used in colder climates.<br />
* ('3)('4) Recommended only in factory documentation for type 2 Jimnys 3 with M13A engine.<br />
* ('5)('6) Recommended in factory documentation for type 3 and type 4 Jimnys 3 with M13A engine.<br />
* All things considered, when choosing iridium spark plugs, it would probably be better to use spark plugs ('5) or ('6) instead of ('3) or ('4)<br />
** Reason: Newer documentation (with more experience from the manufacturer) for the same engine type.<br />
** To further simplify the choice - use NGK IFR6J11, as that spark plug has been exclusively recommended by Suzuki for M13A engine since year 2006 onwards.<br />
* ('7) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with M13A (VVT) petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 63 kW / 86 HP of power and 1328 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Engine capacity is the same as in the older non-VVT edition, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
** Note: Engine power is the same as in K9K 266 diesel engine - do not be an idiot and mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2005/2006, depending on market, and kept being used unchanged until the last produced Jimny 3 in year 2018.<br />
** All petrol Jimnys 3 from year 2007 to 2018 used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2006, and a few built in 2005.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|API SL or SM ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (good)<br>or 5W-30 (best for off-road driving)<br>or 0W-20 (best for cold climate & fuel eco.)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|150 000 km or 10 years;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|3.7 l ('2)<br>5.7 l ('3)<br />
|Suzuki ATF3317<br>or Mobil ATF3309<br>or Dexron III<br />
|165 000 km;<br>In practice: 75 000 km or 4-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.13 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|5.2 l ('4)<br>5.9 l ('5)<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|For non-phosphated non-HOAT coolants: 45 000 km or 3 years<br>For phosphated HOAT coolants: 75 000 km or 4 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('6)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U11<br>NGK BKR6E-11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km ('7)<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, iridium<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|NGK IFR6J11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 60 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 45 000 km ('7)<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('8)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('8)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) These API engine oil classifications might become obsolete, but newer API engine oil classifications are backwards compatible.<br />
** So, if by the time you read this, API SM classification becomes obsolete, just use any newer API S'''X''' classification, where '''X''' is a "later" letter.<br />
** The current API petrol engine oil classification as of 2018 is SN. In future it could be SO, SP, etc.<br />
* ('2) Official capacity specification for type 6 and type 7 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('3) Official capacity specification for type 8 and type 9 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('4) Official capacity specification only for type 6 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('5) Official capacity specification for type 7 and newer Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('6) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* Factory prefers iridium spark plugs, especially if the vehicle is used in colder climates.<br />
* ('7) As far as it is known, all Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine have been sold '''with''' an O2 sensor (at least in European Union).<br />
** However, there might be some Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine and without an O2 sensor in other world markets.<br />
* ('8) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DDiS Jimny 3 with K9K 700 diesel engine, continental Europe ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 48 kW / 63 HP of power and 1461 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Capacity is the same as in the newer K9K 266 engine, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2003 and was superseded with K9K 266 engine in late 2005/2006.<br />
** All diesel Jimnys 3 from year 2003 to year 2004 used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2005, while only a few built/sold in 2006 used it.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 16510-84A11<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|ACEA B3 or B4 ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-40 (good)<br>or 5W-40 (better)<br>or 0W-40 (best)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 8000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.9 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.2 l ('2)<br>1.13 l ('3)<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|7.0 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('4)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 49180-84A80<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt and tensioner<br />
|1 set ('5)<br />
|Suzuki 12760-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Diesel fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15410-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 30 000 km or 2 years ('6)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* The user manual for DDiS Jimnys 3 strongly warns '''against using''' engine oils with "X"W-'''30''' viscosity, as engine damage is promised in that case.<br />
* ('1) If you can not find ACEA B3 or B4 engine oil, imperfect alternative is ACEA C3.<br />
** ACEA C3 engine oils ''might not'' provide adequate engine wear protection if top quality (very low sulphur) diesel fuel is not used.<br />
* ('2) Official specification for DDiS K9K-700 engined Jimnys 3 with lever operated transfer box.<br />
* ('3) Official specification for DDiS K9K-700 engined Jimnys 3 with bush button operated transfer box.<br />
* ('4) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('5) Shouldn't the engine coolant pump also be replaced every time as a part of this set / procedure?<br />
** User manual does not mention any replacement interval for the engine coolant pump, but most aftermarket manufacturers offer this spare part set as "coolant pump + timing belt + tensioner".<br />
* ('6) If the diesel fuel filter has a water drain valve, drain the water from it during every engine oil change.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DDiS Jimny 3 with K9K 266 diesel engine, continental Europe ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 63 kW / 86 HP of power and 1461 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Capacity is the same as in the older K9K 700 engine, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
** Note: Engine power is the same as in the M13A VVT petrol engine - do not be an idiot and mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2005/2006 and was used unchanged until the last produced diesel Jimny 3 in year 2010.<br />
** All diesel Jimnys 3 from year 2007 to 2010 (or early 2011) used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2006, and a few built in late 2005.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 16510-84A11<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.9 l<br />
|ACEA B3 or B4 ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-40 (good)<br>or 5W-40 (better)<br>or 0W-40 (best)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 8000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.9 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.13 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|7.3 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('2)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki ?????-?????<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt and tensioner<br />
|1 set ('3)<br />
|Suzuki 12760-84A50<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Diesel fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15410-84A51<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 30 000 km or 2 years ('4)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* The user manual for DDiS Jimnys 3 strongly warns '''against using''' engine oils with "X"W-'''30''' viscosity, as engine damage is promised in that case.<br />
* ('1) If you can not find ACEA B3 or B4 engine oil, imperfect alternative is ACEA C3.<br />
** ACEA C3 engine oils ''might not'' provide adequate engine wear protection if top quality (very low sulphur) diesel fuel is not used.<br />
* ('2) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('3) Shouldn't the engine coolant pump also be replaced every time as a part of this set / procedure?<br />
** User manual does not mention any replacement interval for the engine coolant pump, but most aftermarket manufacturers offer this spare part set as "coolant pump + timing belt + tensioner".<br />
* ('4) If the diesel fuel filter has a water drain valve, drain the water from it during every engine oil change.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 4 with K15B petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info missing...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Regular_maintenance_intervals_and_consumables&diff=9985
Regular maintenance intervals and consumables
2022-10-17T13:14:02Z
<p>Bosanek: Increased engine air filter replacement interval in practice</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article contains precise information about required specifications and quantities of consumables used during regular vehicle maintenance, as well as regular maintenance intervals.<br />
** Please ensure that this information applies to your specific vehicle and country, as variations can occur.<br />
<br />
{{warning|No guarantee is given for the accuracy of any data presented in this article!}}<br />
{{note|Before you drain any fluid, '''first''' check if the filler plug, screw or cap for that fluid can be completely removed.<br>Sometimes it can't be unscrewed due to age or curse!<br>You do not want to end up stranded with a drained system which you can not refill!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* Because Jimnys 3 have been in production for 20 years, and in various revisions and editions, there are several consumables specification tables, depending on a particular vehicle edition.<br />
* If you want to be absolutely certain about the exact fluid specifications for your particular vehicle, the required fluid specifications and quantities are written in the owner's manual.<br />
<br />
{{note|If you don't have the original owner's manual for your particular vehicle, you can determine the name of the correct manual in the wiki page [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and Owners Guides'''"]].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes for new owners of second-hand Jimnys ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
If you recently bought a second-hand Jimny and you are not confident in its service history, change '''ALL''' fluids and filters, the sooner the better.<br />
All fluids and filters stated below should be periodically changed anyway.<br />
<br />
<br />
This means oils in:<br />
* engine;<br />
* front axle;<br />
* rear axle;<br />
* gear box;<br />
* transfer box;<br />
* power steering;<br />
* brakes;<br />
* air conditioning compressor oil and coolant (if AC is fitted);<br />
* don't forget the engine coolant as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
Filters are:<br />
* engine oil filter;<br />
* engine air intake filter;<br />
* [[Cabin filter change|cabin (pollen, air conditioning) filter]];<br />
* fuel filter for DDiS (diesel) Jimnys;<br />
<br />
<br />
It is also advised to change all engine belts (and accompanying tensioners if applicable) and also visually check upon spark plugs in petrol engines.<br />
<br />
<br />
== General awareness about proper fluid and filter selection ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Beware that selecting a '''suitable / properly matching''' fluid and filter (oil, coolant, etc.) is '''vital''' for the longevity of the mechanical systems which use those fluids!<br />
** For example, the longevity of the engine, gearbox, etc. is highly dependent on what exact oil type is used.<br />
* Using a high quality fluid from a good manufacturer is one thing, but equally as important is using a '''properly matching''' type of fluid.<br />
** However, selecting a '''properly matching''' fluid type can be a rather tricky endeavor, as there can be ''significant'' differences among seemingly unimportant specification details.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read the wiki article [[Fluids and filters - proper selection|"'''Fluids and filters - proper selection'''"]] for full info including recommendations!}}<br />
<br />
{{note|If you are considering using some additives for the engine oil and/or for transmission oils, read the wiki article [[Oil additives (engine, transmission)|"'''Oil additives (engine, transmission)'''"]] first.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Regular maintenance not mentioned in official recommendations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The list below contains regular maintenance which is strongly advised to be practiced from common experience, and which is rarely (if at all) mentioned in the official vehicle documentation:<br />
# Road tyre rotation.<br />
#* Good practice is to do it during every engine oil change.<br />
#* This is actually properly explained in the official documentation, but is often overlooked, so here is another mention.<br />
# Checking tyre pressures regularly.<br />
# Underbody anti-rust protection.<br />
#* First time should be done thoroughly and as soon as possible after the vehicle leaves the factory, then regular checking and touch-up once a year.<br />
# Regular washing of the underbody, especially during winter.<br />
#* This should preferably be done a bit further away from home, so that the underbody can dry after the wash during the trip back home.<br />
# Use the 4WD system from time to time to check if it works and to prevent its parts from sticking or deteriorating due to chronic dormancy.<br />
# Cleaning or replacement of the [[Cabin filter change|cabin air filter]].<br />
# Waxing the painted body at least twice a year.<br />
# Filling up the car battery with distilled water before and after every summer.<br />
#* Applicable only if the battery has removable cell caps.<br />
# Using the hand brake at least once a month.<br />
#* There are people who never use it - this reminder is for them.<br />
# Cleaning and nourishing the seats at least twice a year.<br />
#* Applicable only if the seats are made of real or synthetic leather.<br />
# Putting fuel in before it gets to reserve level in the tank.<br />
# Driving off road at least once a month.<br />
# Getting stuck in snow or mud at least once a year.<br />
# Visiting this forum and wiki at least once a week. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Fluid specifications and replacement intervals ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Important common notes for all the tables ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes about tables' content ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities and specifications are direct copies from original Suzuki's user manuals.<br />
** Exceptions are stated OEM part numbers for all the filters and belts.<br />
*** These have been taken from Suzuki's online spare parts catalogue.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All replacement intervals are direct copies from original Suzuki's user manuals for '''normal driving conditions'''.<br />
* In some cases, this data has been supplemented with advised "practical" intervals from the "community / street experience" (in '''normal''' driving conditions).<br />
** In such cases, it is generally recommended to adhere to advised "practical" intervals instead to official factory intervals.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Notes for some tables below mention certain Jimny "types" (production model revisions).<br />
* To learn more about those types, and to determine to which type your Jimny belongs, read the wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides#Factory types by VINs|"'''Manuals and owner's guides (chapter about types)'''"]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes about severe driving conditions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Replacement intervals for many parts and fluids are significantly shorter if the vehicle ''regularly'' endures one or more driving conditions which are classified as '''"severe"'''.<br />
* In that case, you should consult your original Suzuki user manual (chapter 8 - "Inspection and maintenance"), which contains detailed info about shortened replacement intervals in severe driving conditions.<br />
* Many aspects of all-terrain driving fall under one or more classifications of "severe driving conditions"!<br />
<br />
<br />
There are several driving conditions which user manuals classify as "severe conditions":<br />
# Repeated short trips;<br />
# Driving on rough and/or muddy roads;<br />
# Driving on dusty roads;<br />
# Driving in extremely cold weather and/or salty roads;<br />
# Repeated short trips in extremely cold weather;<br />
# Leaded petrol fuel use;<br />
# Low quality diesel fuel use;<br />
# Towing a trailer (or otherwise working under heavy load);<br />
# Also, driving like an ignorant idiot.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not each type of condition is applicable to every fluid's or part's shortened replacement interval.<br />
* Read your factory user manual for full info!<br />
** If you don't have your factory user manual, the wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and owner's guides'''"]] contains info on how to obtain a matching copy.<br />
<br />
<br />
The replacement intervals of these parts and fluids are negatively affected by one or more severe driving conditions:<br />
* Engine air filter;<br />
* Engine oil and oil filter;<br />
* Manual gear box oil;<br />
* Automatic gear box oil;<br />
* Transfer gear box oil;<br />
* Differential oil (front);<br />
* Differential oil (rear);<br />
* Engine accessory drive belt(s);<br />
* Engine camshaft timing belt (and tensioner);<br />
* Spark plugs (nickel);<br />
* Spark plugs (iridium);<br />
* Diesel fuel filter;<br />
<br />
<br />
It might be shorter to list parts and fluids whose replacement intervals are '''not''' affected by any of the severe driving conditions:<br />
* Engine coolant;<br />
* Power steering fluid;<br />
* Brake fluid;<br />
* Petrol fuel filter;<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on engine air filter ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Engine air filter should officially be changed on every 3rd engine oil replacement (and air-blown during the intermediate ones).<br />
* However, driving in dusty or smoggy conditions can severely shorten air filter's service life.<br />
** Therefore, change the air filter more often (at least every 2nd engine oil change), by evaluating its condition.<br />
*** A dirty air filter causes lower engine power, higher fuel consumption and long term engine damage.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on cabin air filter ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The factory does not specify a regular replacement interval for the cabin air filter.<br />
** (It is also called "pollen" filter or "air conditioning" filter).<br />
* That is because a cabin air filter is unimportant for the vehicle.<br />
** It is a filter for the human respiratory system.<br />
* As far as the vehicle (and its manufacturer) is/are concerned, you do not need to change a cabin air filter ever.<br />
** You can even discard it and drive indefinitely without it.<br />
*** Many Jimnys don't even come with a cabin air filter installed from the factory!<br />
*** The (lack of) presence of a cabin air filter or its heavy dirtiness does not mechanically negatively affect anything in the vehicle. <br />
* However, if you value your health and therefore the longevity and quality of your only life, you should change the cabin air filter regularly too.<br />
** A sensible replacement interval might be every 20 000 km or two years - just guessing.<br />
*** Choose whichever replacement interval makes you feel responsible to yourself - perhaps on the basis of periodically removing the filter and checking its condition.<br />
* The wiki article [[Cabin filter change|'''"Cabin filter change"''']] contains all the required information (including part numbers) and a "how to" replacement guide.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on engine coolant ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For Jimny 3 types 1-4 (1998-2005), Suzuki did not place any specific requirements for the type of engine coolant during their production era, apart that it has to be ethylene-glycol based (98% of engine coolants are).<br />
* However, ever since Jimny 3 type 5 (produced in 2005) until the end of Jimny 3 production in 2018, Suzuki has added a clear warning in the user manuals that only '''silicate-free''' ethylene-glycol coolants should be used both in petrol and in diesel Jimnys 3.<br />
* To make the story short, it turned out that the manufacturer learned (through several years of experience) that ''silicated'' engine coolants do long term damage to its engines cooling systems.<br />
** Therefore, the requirement to use a '''non-silicated''' engine coolant should be "retroactively" applied to every Jimny 3 ever produced since 1998 (as is stated in all the tables below).<br />
*** Another thing which Suzuki does not mention explicitly, but rather implicitly (by strongly recommending its own genuine engine coolant to eliminate the risks of engine damage) is that the coolant should preferably also be phosphated and 2-EHA free.<br />
* All this high-tech babble is more thoroughly elaborated in the wiki article [[Fluids and filters - proper selection|'''"Fluids and filters - proper selection"''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Other notes ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Calculate miles from kilometers by dividing kilometers by 1.61.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with G13BB petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* G13BB engine has 59 kW / 80 HP of power and 1298 cm3 capacity.<br />
* All Jimnys 3 used this engine from year 1998 to year 2000/2001/2002 (depending on market), when G13BB engine was superseded with M13A engine.<br />
** However, G13BB engine was still used in many "cabrio" / soft top Jimnys 3 even until year 2005/2006.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|3.7 l ('1)<br>4.2 l ('2)<br />
|API SH or SJ ('3)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (normal climate)<br>or 5W-30 (cold climate)<br>or 10W-40 (hot climate)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|1.0 l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|160 000 km;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-4 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|0.7 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|4.5 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('4)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U<br>NGK BKR6E<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('5)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('5)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|V belt: 30 000 km or 2 years<br>V-rib belt: 90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 12761-70C00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|100 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) Official quantity specification for type 1 Jimnys 3 with G13BB engine;<br />
* ('2) Official quantity specification for type 2 Jimnys 3 with G13BB engine;<br />
* ('3) These are old, deprecated API engine oil classifications.<br />
** They have been superseded for a long time by any newer API S'''X''' classification where "X" is a "later" letter than J (like SL, SM, SN, etc.)<br />
* ('4) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('5) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with M13A (non-VVT) petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* M13A engine has 60 kW / 82 HP of power and 1328 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Engine capacity is the same as in the newer VVT edition, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2000/2001 (depending on market) and it was superseded with improved M13A VVT engine in year 2005/2006 (depending on market).<br />
** Most regular ("closed top" / "tin top") petrol Jimnys 3 used this engine in the specified time period, but many "cabrio" / "soft top" Jimnys 3 still used the older G13BB engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|API SJ or SL ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (normal climate)<br>or 5W-30 (cold climate)<br>or 10W-40 (hot climate)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|1.0 l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|165 000 km;<br>In practice: 75 000 km or 4-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|0.8 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|5.2 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('2)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U11<br>NGK BKR6E-11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, iridium<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso SK16PR-A11 ('3)<br>NGK IFR5E11 ('4)<br>NGK IFR6E11 ('5)<br>NGK IFR6J11 ('6)<br />
|With O2 sensor: 60 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('7)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('7)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) These are old, deprecated API engine oil classifications.<br />
** They have been superseded for a long time by any newer API S'''X''' classification where "X" is a "later" letter than L (like SM, SN, etc.)<br />
* ('2) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* Factory prefers iridium spark plugs, especially if the vehicle is used in colder climates.<br />
* ('3)('4) Recommended only in factory documentation for type 2 Jimnys 3 with M13A engine.<br />
* ('5)('6) Recommended in factory documentation for type 3 and type 4 Jimnys 3 with M13A engine.<br />
* All things considered, when choosing iridium spark plugs, it would probably be better to use spark plugs ('5) or ('6) instead of ('3) or ('4)<br />
** Reason: Newer documentation (with more experience from the manufacturer) for the same engine type.<br />
** To further simplify the choice - use NGK IFR6J11, as that spark plug has been exclusively recommended by Suzuki for M13A engine since year 2006 onwards.<br />
* ('7) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with M13A (VVT) petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 63 kW / 86 HP of power and 1328 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Engine capacity is the same as in the older non-VVT edition, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
** Note: Engine power is the same as in K9K 266 diesel engine - do not be an idiot and mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2005/2006, depending on market, and kept being used unchanged until the last produced Jimny 3 in year 2018.<br />
** All petrol Jimnys 3 from year 2007 to 2018 used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2006, and a few built in 2005.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|API SL or SM ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (good)<br>or 5W-30 (best for off-road driving)<br>or 0W-20 (best for cold climate & fuel eco.)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|150 000 km or 10 years;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|3.7 l ('2)<br>5.7 l ('3)<br />
|Suzuki ATF3317<br>or Mobil ATF3309<br>or Dexron III<br />
|165 000 km;<br>In practice: 75 000 km or 4-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.13 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|5.2 l ('4)<br>5.9 l ('5)<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|For non-phosphated non-HOAT coolants: 45 000 km or 3 years<br>For phosphated HOAT coolants: 75 000 km or 4 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('6)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U11<br>NGK BKR6E-11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km ('7)<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, iridium<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|NGK IFR6J11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 60 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 45 000 km ('7)<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('8)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('8)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) These API engine oil classifications might become obsolete, but newer API engine oil classifications are backwards compatible.<br />
** So, if by the time you read this, API SM classification becomes obsolete, just use any newer API S'''X''' classification, where '''X''' is a "later" letter.<br />
** The current API petrol engine oil classification as of 2018 is SN. In future it could be SO, SP, etc.<br />
* ('2) Official capacity specification for type 6 and type 7 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('3) Official capacity specification for type 8 and type 9 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('4) Official capacity specification only for type 6 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('5) Official capacity specification for type 7 and newer Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('6) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* Factory prefers iridium spark plugs, especially if the vehicle is used in colder climates.<br />
* ('7) As far as it is known, all Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine have been sold '''with''' an O2 sensor (at least in European Union).<br />
** However, there might be some Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine and without an O2 sensor in other world markets.<br />
* ('8) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DDiS Jimny 3 with K9K 700 diesel engine, continental Europe ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 48 kW / 63 HP of power and 1461 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Capacity is the same as in the newer K9K 266 engine, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2003 and was superseded with K9K 266 engine in late 2005/2006.<br />
** All diesel Jimnys 3 from year 2003 to year 2004 used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2005, while only a few built/sold in 2006 used it.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 16510-84A11<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|ACEA B3 or B4 ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-40 (good)<br>or 5W-40 (better)<br>or 0W-40 (best)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 8000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.9 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.2 l ('2)<br>1.13 l ('3)<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|7.0 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('4)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 49180-84A80<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt and tensioner<br />
|1 set ('5)<br />
|Suzuki 12760-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Diesel fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15410-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 30 000 km or 2 years ('6)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* The user manual for DDiS Jimnys 3 strongly warns '''against using''' engine oils with "X"W-'''30''' viscosity, as engine damage is promised in that case.<br />
* ('1) If you can not find ACEA B3 or B4 engine oil, imperfect alternative is ACEA C3.<br />
** ACEA C3 engine oils ''might not'' provide adequate engine wear protection if top quality (very low sulphur) diesel fuel is not used.<br />
* ('2) Official specification for DDiS K9K-700 engined Jimnys 3 with lever operated transfer box.<br />
* ('3) Official specification for DDiS K9K-700 engined Jimnys 3 with bush button operated transfer box.<br />
* ('4) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('5) Shouldn't the engine coolant pump also be replaced every time as a part of this set / procedure?<br />
** User manual does not mention any replacement interval for the engine coolant pump, but most aftermarket manufacturers offer this spare part set as "coolant pump + timing belt + tensioner".<br />
* ('6) If the diesel fuel filter has a water drain valve, drain the water from it during every engine oil change.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DDiS Jimny 3 with K9K 266 diesel engine, continental Europe ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 63 kW / 86 HP of power and 1461 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Capacity is the same as in the older K9K 700 engine, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
** Note: Engine power is the same as in the M13A VVT petrol engine - do not be an idiot and mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2005/2006 and was used unchanged until the last produced diesel Jimny 3 in year 2010.<br />
** All diesel Jimnys 3 from year 2007 to 2010 (or early 2011) used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2006, and a few built in late 2005.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 25 000 - 3000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 16510-84A11<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.9 l<br />
|ACEA B3 or B4 ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-40 (good)<br>or 5W-40 (better)<br>or 0W-40 (best)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 8000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.9 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.13 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|7.3 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('2)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki ?????-?????<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt and tensioner<br />
|1 set ('3)<br />
|Suzuki 12760-84A50<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Diesel fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15410-84A51<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 30 000 km or 2 years ('4)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* The user manual for DDiS Jimnys 3 strongly warns '''against using''' engine oils with "X"W-'''30''' viscosity, as engine damage is promised in that case.<br />
* ('1) If you can not find ACEA B3 or B4 engine oil, imperfect alternative is ACEA C3.<br />
** ACEA C3 engine oils ''might not'' provide adequate engine wear protection if top quality (very low sulphur) diesel fuel is not used.<br />
* ('2) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('3) Shouldn't the engine coolant pump also be replaced every time as a part of this set / procedure?<br />
** User manual does not mention any replacement interval for the engine coolant pump, but most aftermarket manufacturers offer this spare part set as "coolant pump + timing belt + tensioner".<br />
* ('4) If the diesel fuel filter has a water drain valve, drain the water from it during every engine oil change.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 4 with K15B petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info missing...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Regular_maintenance_intervals_and_consumables&diff=9984
Regular maintenance intervals and consumables
2022-10-17T13:05:51Z
<p>Bosanek: Typo</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article contains precise information about required specifications and quantities of consumables used during regular vehicle maintenance, as well as regular maintenance intervals.<br />
** Please ensure that this information applies to your specific vehicle and country, as variations can occur.<br />
<br />
{{warning|No guarantee is given for the accuracy of any data presented in this article!}}<br />
{{note|Before you drain any fluid, '''first''' check if the filler plug, screw or cap for that fluid can be completely removed.<br>Sometimes it can't be unscrewed due to age or curse!<br>You do not want to end up stranded with a drained system which you can not refill!}}<br />
<br />
<br />
* Because Jimnys 3 have been in production for 20 years, and in various revisions and editions, there are several consumables specification tables, depending on a particular vehicle edition.<br />
* If you want to be absolutely certain about the exact fluid specifications for your particular vehicle, the required fluid specifications and quantities are written in the owner's manual.<br />
<br />
{{note|If you don't have the original owner's manual for your particular vehicle, you can determine the name of the correct manual in the wiki page [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and Owners Guides'''"]].}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes for new owners of second-hand Jimnys ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
If you recently bought a second-hand Jimny and you are not confident in its service history, change '''ALL''' fluids and filters, the sooner the better.<br />
All fluids and filters stated below should be periodically changed anyway.<br />
<br />
<br />
This means oils in:<br />
* engine;<br />
* front axle;<br />
* rear axle;<br />
* gear box;<br />
* transfer box;<br />
* power steering;<br />
* brakes;<br />
* air conditioning compressor oil and coolant (if AC is fitted);<br />
* don't forget the engine coolant as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
Filters are:<br />
* engine oil filter;<br />
* engine air intake filter;<br />
* [[Cabin filter change|cabin (pollen, air conditioning) filter]];<br />
* fuel filter for DDiS (diesel) Jimnys;<br />
<br />
<br />
It is also advised to change all engine belts (and accompanying tensioners if applicable) and also visually check upon spark plugs in petrol engines.<br />
<br />
<br />
== General awareness about proper fluid and filter selection ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* Beware that selecting a '''suitable / properly matching''' fluid and filter (oil, coolant, etc.) is '''vital''' for the longevity of the mechanical systems which use those fluids!<br />
** For example, the longevity of the engine, gearbox, etc. is highly dependent on what exact oil type is used.<br />
* Using a high quality fluid from a good manufacturer is one thing, but equally as important is using a '''properly matching''' type of fluid.<br />
** However, selecting a '''properly matching''' fluid type can be a rather tricky endeavor, as there can be ''significant'' differences among seemingly unimportant specification details.<br />
<br />
{{note|Read the wiki article [[Fluids and filters - proper selection|"'''Fluids and filters - proper selection'''"]] for full info including recommendations!}}<br />
<br />
{{note|If you are considering using some additives for the engine oil and/or for transmission oils, read the wiki article [[Oil additives (engine, transmission)|"'''Oil additives (engine, transmission)'''"]] first.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Regular maintenance not mentioned in official recommendations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The list below contains regular maintenance which is strongly advised to be practiced from common experience, and which is rarely (if at all) mentioned in the official vehicle documentation:<br />
# Road tyre rotation.<br />
#* Good practice is to do it during every engine oil change.<br />
#* This is actually properly explained in the official documentation, but is often overlooked, so here is another mention.<br />
# Checking tyre pressures regularly.<br />
# Underbody anti-rust protection.<br />
#* First time should be done thoroughly and as soon as possible after the vehicle leaves the factory, then regular checking and touch-up once a year.<br />
# Regular washing of the underbody, especially during winter.<br />
#* This should preferably be done a bit further away from home, so that the underbody can dry after the wash during the trip back home.<br />
# Use the 4WD system from time to time to check if it works and to prevent its parts from sticking or deteriorating due to chronic dormancy.<br />
# Cleaning or replacement of the [[Cabin filter change|cabin air filter]].<br />
# Waxing the painted body at least twice a year.<br />
# Filling up the car battery with distilled water before and after every summer.<br />
#* Applicable only if the battery has removable cell caps.<br />
# Using the hand brake at least once a month.<br />
#* There are people who never use it - this reminder is for them.<br />
# Cleaning and nourishing the seats at least twice a year.<br />
#* Applicable only if the seats are made of real or synthetic leather.<br />
# Putting fuel in before it gets to reserve level in the tank.<br />
# Driving off road at least once a month.<br />
# Getting stuck in snow or mud at least once a year.<br />
# Visiting this forum and wiki at least once a week. <br />
<br />
<br />
== Fluid specifications and replacement intervals ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== Important common notes for all the tables ===<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes about tables' content ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities and specifications are direct copies from original Suzuki's user manuals.<br />
** Exceptions are stated OEM part numbers for all the filters and belts.<br />
*** These have been taken from Suzuki's online spare parts catalogue.<br />
<br />
<br />
* All replacement intervals are direct copies from original Suzuki's user manuals for '''normal driving conditions'''.<br />
* In some cases, this data has been supplemented with advised "practical" intervals from the "community / street experience" (in '''normal''' driving conditions).<br />
** In such cases, it is generally recommended to adhere to advised "practical" intervals instead to official factory intervals.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Notes for some tables below mention certain Jimny "types" (production model revisions).<br />
* To learn more about those types, and to determine to which type your Jimny belongs, read the wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides#Factory types by VINs|"'''Manuals and owner's guides (chapter about types)'''"]].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes about severe driving conditions ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Replacement intervals for many parts and fluids are significantly shorter if the vehicle ''regularly'' endures one or more driving conditions which are classified as '''"severe"'''.<br />
* In that case, you should consult your original Suzuki user manual (chapter 8 - "Inspection and maintenance"), which contains detailed info about shortened replacement intervals in severe driving conditions.<br />
* Many aspects of all-terrain driving fall under one or more classifications of "severe driving conditions"!<br />
<br />
<br />
There are several driving conditions which user manuals classify as "severe conditions":<br />
# Repeated short trips;<br />
# Driving on rough and/or muddy roads;<br />
# Driving on dusty roads;<br />
# Driving in extremely cold weather and/or salty roads;<br />
# Repeated short trips in extremely cold weather;<br />
# Leaded petrol fuel use;<br />
# Low quality diesel fuel use;<br />
# Towing a trailer (or otherwise working under heavy load);<br />
# Also, driving like an ignorant idiot.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Not each type of condition is applicable to every fluid's or part's shortened replacement interval.<br />
* Read your factory user manual for full info!<br />
** If you don't have your factory user manual, the wiki article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|"'''Manuals and owner's guides'''"]] contains info on how to obtain a matching copy.<br />
<br />
<br />
The replacement intervals of these parts and fluids are negatively affected by one or more severe driving conditions:<br />
* Engine air filter;<br />
* Engine oil and oil filter;<br />
* Manual gear box oil;<br />
* Automatic gear box oil;<br />
* Transfer gear box oil;<br />
* Differential oil (front);<br />
* Differential oil (rear);<br />
* Engine accessory drive belt(s);<br />
* Engine camshaft timing belt (and tensioner);<br />
* Spark plugs (nickel);<br />
* Spark plugs (iridium);<br />
* Diesel fuel filter;<br />
<br />
<br />
It might be shorter to list parts and fluids whose replacement intervals are '''not''' affected by any of the severe driving conditions:<br />
* Engine coolant;<br />
* Power steering fluid;<br />
* Brake fluid;<br />
* Petrol fuel filter;<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on engine air filter ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Engine air filter should officially be changed on every 3rd engine oil replacement (and air-blown during the intermediate ones).<br />
* However, driving in dusty or smoggy conditions can severely shorten air filter's service life.<br />
** Therefore, change the air filter more often (at least every 2nd engine oil change), by evaluating its condition.<br />
*** A dirty air filter causes lower engine power, higher fuel consumption and long term engine damage.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on cabin air filter ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* The factory does not specify a regular replacement interval for the cabin air filter.<br />
** (It is also called "pollen" filter or "air conditioning" filter).<br />
* That is because a cabin air filter is unimportant for the vehicle.<br />
** It is a filter for the human respiratory system.<br />
* As far as the vehicle (and its manufacturer) is/are concerned, you do not need to change a cabin air filter ever.<br />
** You can even discard it and drive indefinitely without it.<br />
*** Many Jimnys don't even come with a cabin air filter installed from the factory!<br />
*** The (lack of) presence of a cabin air filter or its heavy dirtiness does not mechanically negatively affect anything in the vehicle. <br />
* However, if you value your health and therefore the longevity and quality of your only life, you should change the cabin air filter regularly too.<br />
** A sensible replacement interval might be every 20 000 km or two years - just guessing.<br />
*** Choose whichever replacement interval makes you feel responsible to yourself - perhaps on the basis of periodically removing the filter and checking its condition.<br />
* The wiki article [[Cabin filter change|'''"Cabin filter change"''']] contains all the required information (including part numbers) and a "how to" replacement guide.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Notes on engine coolant ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* For Jimny 3 types 1-4 (1998-2005), Suzuki did not place any specific requirements for the type of engine coolant during their production era, apart that it has to be ethylene-glycol based (98% of engine coolants are).<br />
* However, ever since Jimny 3 type 5 (produced in 2005) until the end of Jimny 3 production in 2018, Suzuki has added a clear warning in the user manuals that only '''silicate-free''' ethylene-glycol coolants should be used both in petrol and in diesel Jimnys 3.<br />
* To make the story short, it turned out that the manufacturer learned (through several years of experience) that ''silicated'' engine coolants do long term damage to its engines cooling systems.<br />
** Therefore, the requirement to use a '''non-silicated''' engine coolant should be "retroactively" applied to every Jimny 3 ever produced since 1998 (as is stated in all the tables below).<br />
*** Another thing which Suzuki does not mention explicitly, but rather implicitly (by strongly recommending its own genuine engine coolant to eliminate the risks of engine damage) is that the coolant should preferably also be phosphated and 2-EHA free.<br />
* All this high-tech babble is more thoroughly elaborated in the wiki article [[Fluids and filters - proper selection|'''"Fluids and filters - proper selection"''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Other notes ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Calculate miles from kilometers by dividing kilometers by 1.61.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with G13BB petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* G13BB engine has 59 kW / 80 HP of power and 1298 cm3 capacity.<br />
* All Jimnys 3 used this engine from year 1998 to year 2000/2001/2002 (depending on market), when G13BB engine was superseded with M13A engine.<br />
** However, G13BB engine was still used in many "cabrio" / soft top Jimnys 3 even until year 2005/2006.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 20 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|3.7 l ('1)<br>4.2 l ('2)<br />
|API SH or SJ ('3)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (normal climate)<br>or 5W-30 (cold climate)<br>or 10W-40 (hot climate)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|1.0 l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|160 000 km;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-4 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|0.7 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|4.5 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('4)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U<br>NGK BKR6E<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('5)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('5)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|V belt: 30 000 km or 2 years<br>V-rib belt: 90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 12761-70C00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|100 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) Official quantity specification for type 1 Jimnys 3 with G13BB engine;<br />
* ('2) Official quantity specification for type 2 Jimnys 3 with G13BB engine;<br />
* ('3) These are old, deprecated API engine oil classifications.<br />
** They have been superseded for a long time by any newer API S'''X''' classification where "X" is a "later" letter than J (like SL, SM, SN, etc.)<br />
* ('4) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('5) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with M13A (non-VVT) petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* M13A engine has 60 kW / 82 HP of power and 1328 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Engine capacity is the same as in the newer VVT edition, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2000/2001 (depending on market) and it was superseded with improved M13A VVT engine in year 2005/2006 (depending on market).<br />
** Most regular ("closed top" / "tin top") petrol Jimnys 3 used this engine in the specified time period, but many "cabrio" / "soft top" Jimnys 3 still used the older G13BB engine.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 20 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|API SJ or SL ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (normal climate)<br>or 5W-30 (cold climate)<br>or 10W-40 (hot climate)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|1.0 l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|165 000 km;<br>In practice: 75 000 km or 4-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|0.8 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.1 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|5.2 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('2)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U11<br>NGK BKR6E-11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, iridium<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso SK16PR-A11 ('3)<br>NGK IFR5E11 ('4)<br>NGK IFR6E11 ('5)<br>NGK IFR6J11 ('6)<br />
|With O2 sensor: 60 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('7)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('7)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) These are old, deprecated API engine oil classifications.<br />
** They have been superseded for a long time by any newer API S'''X''' classification where "X" is a "later" letter than L (like SM, SN, etc.)<br />
* ('2) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* Factory prefers iridium spark plugs, especially if the vehicle is used in colder climates.<br />
* ('3)('4) Recommended only in factory documentation for type 2 Jimnys 3 with M13A engine.<br />
* ('5)('6) Recommended in factory documentation for type 3 and type 4 Jimnys 3 with M13A engine.<br />
* All things considered, when choosing iridium spark plugs, it would probably be better to use spark plugs ('5) or ('6) instead of ('3) or ('4)<br />
** Reason: Newer documentation (with more experience from the manufacturer) for the same engine type.<br />
** To further simplify the choice - use NGK IFR6J11, as that spark plug has been exclusively recommended by Suzuki for M13A engine since year 2006 onwards.<br />
* ('7) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 3 with M13A (VVT) petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 63 kW / 86 HP of power and 1328 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Engine capacity is the same as in the older non-VVT edition, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
** Note: Engine power is the same as in K9K 266 diesel engine - do not be an idiot and mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2005/2006, depending on market, and kept being used unchanged until the last produced Jimny 3 in year 2018.<br />
** All petrol Jimnys 3 from year 2007 to 2018 used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2006, and a few built in 2005.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-81A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 20 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Factory recommended:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A31<br><br>Also compatible:<br>Suzuki 16510-61A01<br>Suzuki 16510-61A20<br>Suzuki 16510-61A21<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|API SL or SM ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-30 (good)<br>or 5W-30 (best for off-road driving)<br>or 0W-20 (best for cold climate & fuel eco.)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 10 000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.3 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|150 000 km or 10 years;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Automatic gear box oil<br />
|3.7 l ('2)<br>5.7 l ('3)<br />
|Suzuki ATF3317<br>or Mobil ATF3309<br>or Dexron III<br />
|165 000 km;<br>In practice: 75 000 km or 4-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.13 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|5.2 l ('4)<br>5.9 l ('5)<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|For non-phosphated non-HOAT coolants: 45 000 km or 3 years<br>For phosphated HOAT coolants: 75 000 km or 4 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('6)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, nickel<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|Denso K20PR-U11<br>NGK BKR6E-11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 45 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 30 000 km ('7)<br />
|-<br />
|Spark plugs, iridium<br />
|4 pieces<br />
|NGK IFR6J11<br />
|With O2 sensor: 60 000 km<br>Without O2 sensor: 45 000 km ('7)<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 or 2 pcs. ('8)<br />
|Several Suzuki OEM P.N.s ('8)<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|90 000 km or 6 years<br />
|-<br />
|Petrol fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15310-81A02<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|210 000 km<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* ('1) These API engine oil classifications might become obsolete, but newer API engine oil classifications are backwards compatible.<br />
** So, if by the time you read this, API SM classification becomes obsolete, just use any newer API S'''X''' classification, where '''X''' is a "later" letter.<br />
** The current API petrol engine oil classification as of 2018 is SN. In future it could be SO, SP, etc.<br />
* ('2) Official capacity specification for type 6 and type 7 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('3) Official capacity specification for type 8 and type 9 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('4) Official capacity specification only for type 6 Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('5) Official capacity specification for type 7 and newer Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine.<br />
* ('6) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* Factory prefers iridium spark plugs, especially if the vehicle is used in colder climates.<br />
* ('7) As far as it is known, all Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine have been sold '''with''' an O2 sensor (at least in European Union).<br />
** However, there might be some Jimnys 3 with M13A VVT engine and without an O2 sensor in other world markets.<br />
* ('8) Can depend if the vehicle has power steering and/or air conditioning or not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DDiS Jimny 3 with K9K 700 diesel engine, continental Europe ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 48 kW / 63 HP of power and 1461 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Capacity is the same as in the newer K9K 266 engine, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2003 and was superseded with K9K 266 engine in late 2005/2006.<br />
** All diesel Jimnys 3 from year 2003 to year 2004 used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2005, while only a few built/sold in 2006 used it.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 20 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 16510-84A11<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.0 l<br />
|ACEA B3 or B4 ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-40 (good)<br>or 5W-40 (better)<br>or 0W-40 (best)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 8000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.9 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.2 l ('2)<br>1.13 l ('3)<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|7.0 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('4)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 49180-84A80<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt and tensioner<br />
|1 set ('5)<br />
|Suzuki 12760-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Diesel fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15410-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 30 000 km or 2 years ('6)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* The user manual for DDiS Jimnys 3 strongly warns '''against using''' engine oils with "X"W-'''30''' viscosity, as engine damage is promised in that case.<br />
* ('1) If you can not find ACEA B3 or B4 engine oil, imperfect alternative is ACEA C3.<br />
** ACEA C3 engine oils ''might not'' provide adequate engine wear protection if top quality (very low sulphur) diesel fuel is not used.<br />
* ('2) Official specification for DDiS K9K-700 engined Jimnys 3 with lever operated transfer box.<br />
* ('3) Official specification for DDiS K9K-700 engined Jimnys 3 with bush button operated transfer box.<br />
* ('4) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('5) Shouldn't the engine coolant pump also be replaced every time as a part of this set / procedure?<br />
** User manual does not mention any replacement interval for the engine coolant pump, but most aftermarket manufacturers offer this spare part set as "coolant pump + timing belt + tensioner".<br />
* ('6) If the diesel fuel filter has a water drain valve, drain the water from it during every engine oil change.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DDiS Jimny 3 with K9K 266 diesel engine, continental Europe ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* This engine has 63 kW / 86 HP of power and 1461 cm3 capacity.<br />
** Note: Capacity is the same as in the older K9K 700 engine, so be careful not to mix them up!<br />
** Note: Engine power is the same as in the M13A VVT petrol engine - do not be an idiot and mix them up!<br />
* This engine was introduced in year 2005/2006 and was used unchanged until the last produced diesel Jimny 3 in year 2010.<br />
** All diesel Jimnys 3 from year 2007 to 2010 (or early 2011) used exclusively this engine, as did most of those built in 2006, and a few built in late 2005.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" vertical-align:top;<br />
!Consumable material<br />
!Quantity<br />
!Specification<br />
!Replacement interval<br />
|-<br />
|Engine air filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 13780-84A00<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 20 000 km<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 16510-84A11<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|During every engine oil change<br />
|-<br />
|Engine oil<br />
|4.9 l<br />
|ACEA B3 or B4 ('1)<br><br>Also:<br>SAE 10W-40 (good)<br>or 5W-40 (better)<br>or 0W-40 (best)<br />
|15 000 km or 12 months;<br>In practice: 8000 km or 12 months<br />
|-<br />
|Manual gear box oil<br />
|1.9 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years<br />
|-<br />
|Transfer gear box oil<br />
|1.13 l<br />
|API GL-4, SAE 75W-90<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (front)<br />
|1.65 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Differential oil (rear)<br />
|1.35 l<br />
|API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, hypoid<br />
|Never;<br>In practice: 50 000 km or 3-5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine coolant<br />
|7.3 l<br />
|Ethylene glycol,<br>also ''strictly'' silicate-free,<br>also preferably 2-EHA free,<br>also preferably phosphated<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Power steering fluid<br />
|? l<br />
|Dexron IIE or Dexron III<br />
|Not mentioned / defined<br />
|-<br />
|Brake fluid<br />
|~0.9 l ('2)<br />
|SAE J1703 or DOT-3<br />
|30 000 km or 2 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine accessory drive belt(s)<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki ?????-?????<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Engine camshaft timing belt and tensioner<br />
|1 set ('3)<br />
|Suzuki 12760-84A50<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|75 000 km or 5 years<br />
|-<br />
|Diesel fuel filter<br />
|1 piece<br />
|Suzuki 15410-84A51<br>Various aftermarket equivalents<br />
|45 000 km or 3 years;<br>In practice: 30 000 km or 2 years ('4)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* The user manual for DDiS Jimnys 3 strongly warns '''against using''' engine oils with "X"W-'''30''' viscosity, as engine damage is promised in that case.<br />
* ('1) If you can not find ACEA B3 or B4 engine oil, imperfect alternative is ACEA C3.<br />
** ACEA C3 engine oils ''might not'' provide adequate engine wear protection if top quality (very low sulphur) diesel fuel is not used.<br />
* ('2) Nowhere officially specified - measured in practice.<br />
* ('3) Shouldn't the engine coolant pump also be replaced every time as a part of this set / procedure?<br />
** User manual does not mention any replacement interval for the engine coolant pump, but most aftermarket manufacturers offer this spare part set as "coolant pump + timing belt + tensioner".<br />
* ('4) If the diesel fuel filter has a water drain valve, drain the water from it during every engine oil change.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Jimny 4 with K15B petrol engine, UK ===<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info missing...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen2]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen2]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:FAQ - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Reference_Data - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Drive_belts&diff=9978
Drive belts
2022-07-31T08:20:22Z
<p>Bosanek: Minor improvements</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article deals with the engine drive belts and associated tensioners, their configurations and adjustment.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Petrol Jimnys have an auxiliary belt (fan belt) and a power steering belt.<br />
** There are a number of combinations and it is essential you get the correct belt.<br />
* Diesel Jimnys have one auxiliary belt which drives all auxiliary engine devices.<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct belt for '''your''' vehicle elsewhere.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Nomenclature ==<br />
<br />
<br />
For shorter naming, these abbreviations and designations will be used in this article:<br />
* P.S. - Power Steering<br />
* A.C. - Air Conditioning<br />
* G13BB - petrol engine, used in very early petrol Jimnys 3 and many cabrio / open top petrol Jimnys 3;<br />
* M13A / M13AA / M13A VVT - family of petrol engines, used in most petrol Jimnys 3 from 2001 to 2018;<br />
** All variants of this engine are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K9K - Renault's diesel engine, used in all diesel Jimnys 3;<br />
** This engine exists in two variants, but both are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K15B - petrol engine, used in Jimnys 4;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Belt configurations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S.]]<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between pump and crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Adjust horizontal (TOP) of belt to 3 – 4 mm (0.12 – 0.16 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S. belt - part number is '''17521-84H00''' ('''4PK 850''') or '''49180-60B20''' ('''4PK 850''')<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between Pump and Crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA without P.S. but with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* A.C. belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''49181-60A00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 790''')<br />
* A.C.: Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon_PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S.+ A.C. belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''17521-52E00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 950''')<br />
* Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== K9K ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== K15B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
There basically two types of tensioners for petrol Jimnys 3:<br />
* One with a small center;<br />
** These are more common on the G13B engines;<br />
* One with a large center;<br />
** There are more common on the M13A family of engines;<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct tensioner for your vehicle.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Small hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13B_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-82A00.<br />
* If the bearing has worn, then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Large hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-81A00.<br />
* This tensioner is commonly called a "smilely tensioner" because of the appearance.<br />
* If the bearing has worn then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out of the outer rim and pressing the smilely centre out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing-m13a.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
==== Replacements ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* First of all, the BigJimny shop has a high quality replacement bearing for sale (read above).<br />
<br />
* However, if you for some reason want to replace the entire tensioner assembly (generally a lot more expensive), you can either buy the original Suzuki P.N. 49160-81A00, or one of the aftermarket tensioners.<br />
** Example aftermarket tensioner is [https://www.vsm.skf.com/uk/en/products/VKM66009 SKF VKM66009]<br />
<br />
<br />
* Universal specification for a fully compatible bearing from any aftermarket manufacturer (SKF, Timken, FAG, Koyo, etc.) is: <font face="Courier">60102RS</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The bearing which Suzuki originally installs in this tensioner is <font face="Courier">NSK 6010DU2</font> (that's at least the case in M13A engined Jimnys made in 2013).<br />
** That bearing has rubber seals on both sides.<br />
** Specifications are: single-row, ball bearings, deep groove, 50 x 80 x 16 mm<br />
* NSK has allegedly superseded it with the bearing model [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_DD&yobi=6010DDU 6010DDU].<br />
** However, since the specifications of those two bearings appear to be the same, it could very well be the same bearing, but just a changed naming nomenclature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is also a "premium" edition of this NSK bearing.<br />
** It is [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_VV&yobi=6010VV NSK 6010VV].<br />
* The "VV" suffix means that is has special "contactless" double sided rubber seals (and made of some super tech rubber), which effectively allow far higher bearing RPMs and operating temperatures.<br />
** However, this premium bearing is about 3x more expensive than the "ordinary" one.<br />
* This premium bearing may be an "overkill" for this application (in other words, the standard bearing may be sufficient), but an expert should give an opinion.<br />
** However, if someone wants to indulge themselves with this premium bearing edition (instead of using chocolate or sex dolls for a change), then buy NSK 6010VV.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Torque Settings ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Engine | reference data]]<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Drive_belts&diff=9977
Drive belts
2022-07-29T12:43:19Z
<p>Bosanek: Added generic specification for a fully compatible large tensioner bearing for Jimny 3</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article deals with the engine drive belts and associated tensioners, their configurations and adjustment.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Petrol Jimnys have an auxiliary belt (fan belt) and a power steering belt.<br />
** There are a number of combinations and it is essential you get the correct belt.<br />
* Diesel Jimnys have one auxiliary belt which drives all auxiliary engine devices.<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct belt for '''your''' vehicle elsewhere.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Nomenclature ==<br />
<br />
<br />
For shorter naming, these abbreviations and designations will be used in this article:<br />
* P.S. - Power Steering<br />
* A.C. - Air Conditioning<br />
* G13BB - petrol engine, used in very early petrol Jimnys 3 and many cabrio / open top petrol Jimnys 3;<br />
* M13A / M13AA / M13A VVT - family of petrol engines, used in most petrol Jimnys 3 from 2001 to 2018;<br />
** All variants of this engine are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K9K - Renault's diesel engine, used in all diesel Jimnys 3;<br />
** This engine exists in two variants, but both are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K15B - petrol engine, used in Jimnys 4;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Belt configurations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S.]]<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between pump and crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Adjust horizontal (TOP) of belt to 3 – 4 mm (0.12 – 0.16 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S. belt - part number is '''17521-84H00''' ('''4PK 850''') or '''49180-60B20''' ('''4PK 850''')<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between Pump and Crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA without P.S. but with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* A.C. belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''49181-60A00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 790''')<br />
* A.C.: Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon_PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S.+ A.C. belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''17521-52E00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 950''')<br />
* Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== K9K ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== K15B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
There basically two types of tensioners for petrol Jimnys 3:<br />
* One with a small center;<br />
** These are more common on the G13B engines;<br />
* One with a large center;<br />
** There are more common on the M13A family of engines;<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct tensioner for your vehicle.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Small hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13B_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-82A00.<br />
* If the bearing has worn, then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Large hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-81A00.<br />
* This tensioner is commonly called a "smilely tensioner" because of the appearance.<br />
* If the bearing has worn then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out of the outer rim and pressing the smilely centre out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing-m13a.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
==== Replacements ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* First of all, the BigJimny shop has a high quality replacement bearing for sale (read above).<br />
* However, if you for some reason want to replace the entire tensioner assembly (generally a lot more expensive), you can either buy the original Suzuki P.N. 49160-81A00, or one of the aftermarket tensioners.<br />
** Example aftermarket tensioner is [https://www.vsm.skf.com/uk/en/products/VKM66009 SKF VKM66009]<br />
<br />
<br />
* By the way, the bearing which Suzuki originally installs in this tensioner is NSK 6010DU2 (that's at least the case in M13A engined Jimnys made in 2013).<br />
** That bearing has rubber seals on both sides.<br />
** Specifications are: single-row, ball bearings, deep groove, 50 x 80 x 16 mm<br />
* NSK has allegedly superseded it with the bearing model [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_DD&yobi=6010DDU 6010DDU].<br />
** However, since the specifications of those two bearings appear to be the same, it could very well be the same bearing, but just a changed naming nomenclature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is also a "premium" edition of this bearing.<br />
** It is [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_VV&yobi=6010VV NSK 6010VV].<br />
* The "VV" suffix means that is has special "contactless" double sided rubber seals (and made of some super tech rubber), which effectively allow far higher bearing RPMs and operating temperatures.<br />
** However, this premium bearing is about 3x more expensive than the "ordinary" one.<br />
* This premium bearing may be an "overkill" for this application (in other words, the standard bearing may be sufficient), but an expert should give an opinion.<br />
** However, if someone wants to indulge themselves with this premium bearing edition (instead of using chocolate or sex dolls for a change), then buy NSK 6010VV.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Allegedly, universal specification for a fully compatible bearing from any other manufacturer (SKF, Timken, FAG, Koyo, etc.) is: 60102RS.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Torque Settings ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Engine | reference data]]<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9976
Battery
2022-07-29T09:33:29Z
<p>Bosanek: Typo</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">'''+'''</font>) terminal to the '''right''' of the negative (<font face="Courier">'''-'''</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
** See the picture of the terminal layout further below in the article.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Battery terminal layouts ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layouts - A01.png|528px|thumb|left|Positioning layouts of battery terminals on suitable battery types for Jimny 3]]<br />
* The layout shows the terminal positioning of both 054 batteries (discussed earlier in the article) and 155 batteries (discussed later in the article).<br />
* Note that the positioning of the terminals in 155 type batteries is inverse when compared to 054 batteries.<br />
* This means that a 155 type battery has to be installed in an "inverse" position in the engine bay (in relation to how a 054 battery would be installed) in order for the cables to reach the battery terminals.<br />
* Being in an "inverse" position in the engine bay is not a problem and the cables still can reach the battery terminals.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges at <font face="Courier">60-80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating at approx. <font face="Courier">550-750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Bear in mind that larger capacity and / or CCA rating generally implies a heavier battery.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (British sizing code <font face="Courier">155</font>) have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
*** Such batteries usually have capacity in the range of <font face="Courier">45-55 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating <font face="Courier">330-500 A</font>.<br />
** The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">'''+'''</font>) terminal to the '''left''' of the negative (<font face="Courier">'''-'''</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
*** See the picture of the terminal layout earlier above in the article.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system (two batteries in the engine bay).<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9975
Battery
2022-07-19T08:15:21Z
<p>Bosanek: Corrected and expanded the text relating to the positioning of the battery terminals</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">'''+'''</font>) terminal to the '''right''' of the negative (<font face="Courier">'''-'''</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
** See the picture of the terminal layout further below in the article.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Battery terminal layouts ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layouts - A01.png|160px|thumb|left|Positioning layouts of battery terminals on suitable battery types for Jimny 3]]<br />
* The layout shows the terminal positioning of both 054 batteries (discussed earlier in the article) and 155 batteries (discussed later in the article).<br />
* Note that the positioning of the terminals in 155 type batteries is inverse when compared to 054 batteries.<br />
* This means that a 155 type battery has to be installed in an "inverse" position in the engine bay (in relation to how a 054 battery would be installed) in order for the cables to reach the battery terminals.<br />
* Being in an "inverse" position in the engine bay is not a problem and the cables still can reach the battery terminals.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges at <font face="Courier">60-80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating at approx. <font face="Courier">550-750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Bear in mind that larger capacity and / or CCA rating generally implies a heavier battery.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (British sizing code <font face="Courier">155</font>) have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
*** Such batteries usually have capacity in the range of <font face="Courier">45-55 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating <font face="Courier">330-500 A</font>.<br />
** The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">'''+'''</font>) terminal to the '''left''' of the negative (<font face="Courier">'''-'''</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
*** See the picture of the terminal layout earlier above in the article.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system (two batteries in the engine bay).<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Suzuki_Jimny_3_-_battery_terminal_positioning_layouts_-_A01.png&diff=9974
File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layouts - A01.png
2022-07-19T07:51:24Z
<p>Bosanek: Compatible battery terminal positioning layouts for Jimny 3.
Picture intended for the specific wiki article.</p>
<hr />
<div>== Summary ==<br />
Compatible battery terminal positioning layouts for Jimny 3.<br />
<br />
Picture intended for the specific wiki article.</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9972
Battery
2022-07-19T07:22:17Z
<p>Bosanek: Corrected the CCA EN rating range of 155 sized batteries</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">+</font>) terminal to the left of the negative (<font face="Courier">-</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layout - A01.jpg|224px|thumb|left|Positioning layout of battery terminals on a suitable battery for Jimny 3]]<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges at <font face="Courier">60-80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating at approx. <font face="Courier">550-750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Bear in mind that larger capacity and / or CCA rating generally implies a heavier battery.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (British sizing code <font face="Courier">155</font>) have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
*** Such batteries usually have capacity in the range of <font face="Courier">45-55 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating <font face="Courier">330-500 A</font>.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system (two batteries in the engine bay).<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9971
Battery
2022-07-18T13:14:03Z
<p>Bosanek: Typo</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">+</font>) terminal to the left of the negative (<font face="Courier">-</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layout - A01.jpg|224px|thumb|left|Positioning layout of battery terminals on a suitable battery for Jimny 3]]<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges at <font face="Courier">60-80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating at approx. <font face="Courier">550-750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Bear in mind that larger capacity and / or CCA rating generally implies a heavier battery.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (British sizing code <font face="Courier">155</font>) have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
*** Such batteries usually have capacity in the range of <font face="Courier">45-55 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating <font face="Courier">400-500 A</font>.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system.<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9970
Battery
2022-07-18T13:11:35Z
<p>Bosanek: More info on battery sizes</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">|JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">+</font>) terminal to the left of the negative (<font face="Courier">-</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layout - A01.jpg|224px|thumb|left|Positioning layout of battery terminals on a suitable battery for Jimny 3]]<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges at <font face="Courier">60-80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating at approx. <font face="Courier">550-750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (British sizing code <font face="Courier">155</font>) have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
*** Such batteries usually have capacity in the range of <font face="Courier">45-55 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA EN</font> rating <font face="Courier">400-500 A</font>.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system.<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic.<br />
* Bear in mind that larger capacity and / or CCA rating generally implies a heavier battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9969
Battery
2022-07-18T13:03:25Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a picture</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are the relatively small Japanese (<font face="Courier">|JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">+</font>) terminal to the left of the negative (<font face="Courier">-</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Suzuki Jimny 3 - battery terminal positioning layout - A01.jpg|224px|thumb|left|Positioning layout of battery terminals on a suitable battery for Jimny 3]]<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing 054 batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges from <font face="Courier">60 Ah</font> to <font face="Courier">80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating from approx. <font face="Courier">550 A</font> to <font face="Courier">750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (UK sizing code have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system.<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9965
Battery
2022-07-18T12:51:14Z
<p>Bosanek: Corrected the wrong statement of positioning (left/right) of the positive and negative battery terminals in a 054 battery</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (British sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are Japanese (<font face="Courier">JIS</font>) post type with the positive (<font face="Courier">+</font>) terminal to the left of the negative (<font face="Courier">-</font>) as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The British sizing <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing 054 batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges from <font face="Courier">60 Ah</font> to <font face="Courier">80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating from approx. <font face="Courier">550 A</font> to <font face="Courier">750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> (UK sizing code have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system.<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9964
Battery
2022-07-18T12:36:40Z
<p>Bosanek: Expanded the chapter on higher battery requirements</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (UK sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font>.<br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are Japanese post type with the positive terminal to the right of the negative as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing 054 batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges from <font face="Courier">60 Ah</font> to <font face="Courier">80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating from approx. <font face="Courier">550 A</font> to <font face="Courier">750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimnys ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required, much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* Examples of requirements for higher electrical output:<br />
*# Sustained winching;<br />
*# In-cabin dash camera(s) with parking recording functionality, where the vehicle is driven relatively rarely (days between runs);<br />
*# Remote "motorhome"-style camping in the wilderness;<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 3 ===<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
** Batteries with dimensions of <font face="Courier">236L x 127W x 227H</font> have been used in Jimnys 3 without any fitment issues.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system.<br />
** There is an interesting [https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/138922-Dual-battery-for-a-Jimny forum topic 1] in an external forum in South African Republic. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solutions in petrol Jimny 4 ===<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Battery&diff=9963
Battery
2022-07-18T08:46:54Z
<p>Bosanek: More info on sizes of standard Jimny 3 batteires</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
The purpose of this article is to give insight about issues and solutions regarding battery usage in Jimnys.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* The standard battery type, as fitted to all petrol versions of the Jimny 3 from 1998 to 2018 is an <font face="Courier">054</font> (UK sizing standard).<br />
* The dimensions are <font face="Courier">196L x 127W x 227H</font><br />
** Some other sources claim the length of <font face="Courier">054</font> batteries to be <font face="Courier">187 mm</font>.<br />
*** In general case anyway, there is certainly at least <font face="Courier">+-5 mm</font> tolerance in sizing when dealing with car batteries.<br />
* The terminals are Japanese post type with the positive terminal to the right of the negative as you hold the battery with the terminals closest to you.<br />
* The <font face="Courier">054</font> is a common battery type used on many small Japanese and Korean cars.<br />
* It is readily available from car battery suppliers and typically inexpensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The performance of batteries varies between manufacturers.<br />
* Typically the lowest performing 054 batteries have a capacity of <font face="Courier">30 Ah</font> and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of around <font face="Courier">260 A</font>.<br />
* This adequately meets the standard electrical load requirements for the Jimny in a "normal climate".<br />
* There are higher performing batteries of this size, up to approx. <font face="Courier">45 Ah</font> and approx. <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating of <font face="Courier">400 A</font>.<br />
** Higher performing batteries are even officially recommended by Suzuki (in the owner's manual) for "cold climates".<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in diesel (DDiS) Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* Diesel (DDiS) Jimnys 3 use much larger and more powerful battery as standard.<br />
* The size of factory battery in DDiS Jimnys 3 is approx <font face="Courier">225L x 175W x 220H</font>.<br />
* Capacity in this size ranges from <font face="Courier">60 Ah</font> to <font face="Courier">80 Ah</font>, and <font face="Courier">CCA</font> rating from approx. <font face="Courier">550 A</font> to <font face="Courier">750 A</font>.<br />
** The colder the climate, the more powerful battery should be used.<br />
* This kind of battery should provide sufficient power of high power loads like winching.<br />
** Note that there is '''no''' space in the engine bay of DDiS Jimnys 3 for an additional battery.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Standard battery in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in petrol Jimny 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
* In situations where higher electrical output may be ''regularly'' required (sustained winching for example), much higher spec or larger batteries should be considered.<br />
* In petrol Jimny 3, the standard battery tray in the engine bay can accommodate a slightly larger battery.<br />
* Aftermarket battery trays that mount in the nearside of the engine bay offer the ability to fit a single large battery or to run a twin battery system.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Solutions for higher battery requirements in Jimny 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen4|}}<br />
<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clips_and_bits_for_body_and_trim_elements&diff=9961
Clips and bits for body and trim elements
2022-04-26T13:15:55Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a note about Internet searches</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki Jimny is a modern, plastic-infused vehicle. <br />
* Therefore, most Jimny's body and trim panels are interconnected by plastic clips and/or rivets as opposed to screws, as is the case with most modern vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The reason for that is that in the 21st century, screws (which usually have to be visible) have become unstylish, old-fashioned, distasteful, ugly, vulgar, repugnant, blasphemous and they break the design contours.<br />
* Therefore, since screws are highly undesireable for all the mentioned reasons, vehicle designers have come up with another interconnecting method for various body and trim panels - plastic clips of various shapes and latching designs.<br />
<br />
* Clips and rivets are futuristic, high-tech, sexy, sensual, smart, slick, smooth, unobtrusive and above all can be easily hidden or obscured, and therefore they do not spoil the design contours and do not distract people from enjoying the beauties of life when spending their precious time in their all-lookalike disposable vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, since clips are usually hidden, they are also usually inaccessible to dismount when separating body panels or trim pieces.<br />
* Even when a clip or rivet is accessible, it is usually quite tricky to de-latch it (dismount it) without damaging the clip or spending an excessive amount of time gently fiddling with it.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, it is quite common to break or lose a lot of clips or rivets when dismounting certain vehicle or body trim panels.<br />
* However, finding a matching replacement can be quite an effort, since many clips and rivet types look alike on a first (and even second and third) glance.<br />
* However, looking similar is not important, but fitting exactly is important.<br />
** In order for a replacement rivet or clip to fit exactly, it usually has to have exact same shapes and contours in order to latch properly.<br />
** That is why this article exists - to help you find exactly matching replacement clips for the needed type of clips for a Jimny.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Clip and rivet types ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables in this article contain the data compiled from official Suzuki's parts catalogues and diagrams about various types of clips and rivets used in Jimnys.<br />
* The situation in your Jimny might differ from the data stated below if you have some relatively rare edition (possibly some Santana Jimnys from Spain, some cabrio Jimnys, or whatnot).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on vehicle "types" / revisions ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since Jimnys have been in production for 20 years, there have been many revisions along.<br />
** Therefore, many clips, bolts, screws etc. differ for different Jimny revisions / types.<br />
** This article has tried to cover and distinguish as much of those differences as possible.<br />
*** However, there is no guarantee about the accuracy of any data regarding compatibility of a certain part with a certain Jimny vehicle.<br />
* The article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|'''"Manuals and owners guides"''']] explains the story about various Jimny editions and types in great detail.<br />
** For lazy readers - in (very) short, all Jimny revisions can be classified into three groups:<br />
**# Oldest group from 1998 to 2005 (types 1-4, partially type 5);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 1st model front bumper and 1st edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# Intermediate group from 2005 to 2013 (partially type 5, types 6-8, partially type 9);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 2nd model front bumper and 2nd edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# The newest group from 2013 to 2018 (partially type 9, types 10-12).<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 3rd model front bumper and 3rd edition front interior (instrument panel, steering wheel).<br />
** The tables below contain the data with which Jimny types a certain part is compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny clips, bolts and bits ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Note: When searching any mentioned part numbers on the Internet, also try searching for them excluding spaces and/or hyphens in the part number.<br />
** This way you might get some better / more relevant search results.<br />
** Example: search for <font face="courier">"0940907332"</font> instead of for <font face="courier">"09409-07332"</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front hood ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from the Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Front hood panel";<br />
* "Body -> Garnish".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front hood<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-04304<br />
|1-12<br />
|10<br />
|Holds the scoop where the front end of the front bumper rests on?<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07311<br />
|1-4<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07332<br />
|5-12<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Clip, Connects part of the fake power bulge to the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|9-12<br />
|3<br />
|Holds the cover on the front cross-member below the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-8<br />
|5<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on upper part;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on lower part;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables below contain some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front bumper".<br />
* Each of the three bumper models / editions has their own dedicated table.<br />
* See the wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for more details about front bumper models.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 1st model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66004<br />
|1-5<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for l-bracket under bumper and also for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumber section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|02142-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3 <br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|1<br />
|Bolt to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 2nd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front crossmember;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09125-06121<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616B<br />
|6-12<br />
|3<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for the skid plate extension;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 3rd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|71761-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around left front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|71751-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around right front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for securing the lowest section of the bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|1-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Also connects the front center grille to cross-member;<br>Replaces and improves upon older compatible P.N. 09409-07332;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616A<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw, for connecting front grille to crossmember;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Rear bumper".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear bumper<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06061<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw (6x20), connects rear bumper to rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the rear bumper to the rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Screw, for license plate holder;<br>Should be interchangeable with screw P.N. 03541-0512A;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06094<br />
|6-7<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06245<br />
|7-12<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front side fender ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front fender".<br />
* All quantities in the table are for both fenders together.<br />
** Divide quantities by 2 for a single fender.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front side fender<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06123<br />
|1-5<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|01550-0612A<br />
|6-12<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the clip or screw which connects the front inner wheel arch to the front fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|14-20<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to fender;<br>Quantity depends on vehicle type;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08327<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, connects fender cover in the engine bay to fender;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along front wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08328<br />
|1-12<br />
|26<br />
|Clip, connects side door moulding to side door;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door sill moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard" and in the diagram category "Body -> Garnish".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door sill moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|4?<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09250-10016<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Cap in the bottom of side door sill;<br>Purpuse is to enable water drainage while preventing water ingress from below;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along rear wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects rear wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Interior trim ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Roof lining";<br />
* "Body -> Front door panel";<br />
* "Body -> Back door panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Instrument panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Interior trim";<br />
<br />
<br />
Most of the clips, rivets and screws from the dash board and instrument panel have not been included in the table, as it is a massive collection there which would take days to investigate!<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Interior trim<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-05307-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|5<br />
|Rivet, connects rear part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06310<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects front part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br>Replaced by interchangeable rivet P.N. 09409-06326-xxx;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|14<br />
|Clip, connects side door trim card to door frame;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08308-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, secures side door trim card to door frame;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix are T01 and P4Z, indicating some grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A01-xxx<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is T01 indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A50-xxx<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03542-06253<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0625A<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06024<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|11<br />
|Clip, connects rear door interior trim card to rear door frame;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08326<br />
|5-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip which connects the garnish around radio and heating controls to dash board;<br>Interchangeable P.N. is 09409-08332; <br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, holds inner trim at "A" pillar in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06322-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, holds the trim cover in front of front speaker in place;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|24<br />
|Clip, connects upper rear side inner trim (around rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08322<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Example source: [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-E-CO-Spoiler-Fastener-Clips-SUZUKI-Jimny-71525-0940908322000/252791103565?epid=716626627&hash=item3adb86204d:g:FHMAAOSw3v5YsEj7 Ebay item];<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Deep clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|03141-0512A<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-05044<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Nut for screw 03141-0512A;<br>Used by only one screw per vehicle side;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Lamps ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* Electrical -> Front fog lamp;<br />
* Electrical -> Rear lamp;<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities are per individual lamp.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Lamps<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|02112-7516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|35665-81A10<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, fixes lower rear lamp to rear bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|71812-78F00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper left rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|35684-81A00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper right rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
== Aftermarket clips & bits sources ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The lists below contain specific links to sources of original OEM parts as well as aftermarket equivalents.<br />
** Articles written in '''bold typeface''' are the original OEM parts or aftermarket equivalents which have been tested by a Jimny owner as being fully compatible and of good quality.<br />
** Articles written in ''italic typeface'' are aftermarket equivalents which have not been tested by a Jimny user, but should (by all seller statements and item pictures) fit just fine.<br />
* No affiliation (should) exists between the person who added a certain article into this table and those who sell it.<br />
** All articles are sorted alphabetically.<br />
* The purpose is simply to aid the community with specific finds on cheap, compatible clips and bits as an alternative to buying expensive original clips and bits from Suzuki dealers.<br />
** There might be even cheaper and still fully compatible and good quality alternatives available elsewhere.<br />
*** Add them here if you find them!<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09132-06022</font>:<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/surub-caroserie-jimny-09132-06022.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> and <font face="courier">09409-07340</font> (mutually compatible, the latter one is an improved revision):<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267117</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-ug ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 3'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-Mazda-9s9-AK-07332/131134615405 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.de/itm/20x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-FIAT-SUZUKI-MAZDA/131134620864 '''A larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/15x-BEFESTIGUNGSCLIPS-SUZUKI-FIAT-TOYOTA-RADHAUS-HALTERUNG-KLIPS-0940907332-NEU/171327846732 '''Ebay DE seller "myba-shop"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-8mm-Hole-Wheel-Arch-Liner-Clips-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Inner-Wing-Subaru/291699535162 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-SUZUKI-INTERIOR-PANEL-PUSH-TRIM-CLIP-BODY-DOOR-7-8MM-/331805229166 ''Ebay UK seller "procarparts4u"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-SUZUKI-TOYOTA-MAZDA-LEXUS-WHEEL-ARCH-BUMPER-SPLASHGUARD-TRIM-CLIPS-1004683/142053647078 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07332-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Mazda P.N. <font face="courier">9S9AK-07332</font> is verified to be the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
* Note: The following products ''should be'' the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>:<br />
** Fiat P.N. <font face="courier">71 741 883</font> and <font face="courier">71 768 111</font>;<br />
** Honda P.N. <font face="courier">73155-SS0-004</font> and <font face="courier">91512-SX0-003</font>;<br />
** Mitsubishi P.N. <font face="courier">MU000319</font>;<br />
** Subaru P.N. <font face="courier">50267117</font>;<br />
** Toyota & Lexus P.N. <font face="courier">90467-07164</font>;<br />
* Note: The following products should be technically compatible with Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> (same shape and fits the same holes, but different appearance):<br />
** Citroen & Peugeot P.N. <font face="courier">6822N2</font>;<br />
* Note: Aftermarket product [https://www.romix.pl/kolek-rozporowy-b23143-p7026.html Romix B23143] should be the same as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07308</font>:<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267219</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-t01-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-5pk-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/371405314724 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708894 '''Larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708888 '''Super large set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-7mm-BLACK-RIVET-TRIM-CLIPS-for-SUZUKI-FRONT-REAR-BUMPER-SILL-SIDE-SKIRT-SILL/323809252204 ''Ebay UK seller "adl-componentsltd"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162801266114 Ebay UK seller ''"nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 1'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUZUKI-MITSUBISHI-G-M-BUMPER-SIDESKIRT-FRONT-GRILL-TRIM-CLIPS-X10/162801271468 ''Ebay UK seller "nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-MITSUBISHI-SUZUKI-TRIM-RIVET-BUMPER-MOUNTING-CLIPS-1000609/142115770161 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Volvo P.N. <font face="courier">987789</font> should also be the same part as this Suzuki part.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08320</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ubg ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ukjb ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10X-TOYOTA-67771-02030-SUZUKI-09409-08320-TURVERKLEIDUNG-INNEN-VERKLEIDUNG-CLIP/141282093628 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-TOYOTA-LEXUS-SUZUKI-GM-INTERIOR-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-RETAINER-CLIPS-1009069/142190717043 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08320-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08308</font>:<br />
* [https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-Nylon-Black-Fastener-Fender-Bumper-Fairing-Trim-Cover-Clips-Fit-6-8mm-Hole/322929074551 ''Ebay China seller "lixibin2017_8"'']<br />
** This set contains mix of two different rivet types, of which one should be equivalent to this Suzuki part number.<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Suzuki-Fairing-Shield-Trim-Cover-Clips-for-GSX-Bergman-V-Strom/371783087561 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-09304</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-09304 ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket part'']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki-p323.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Arch-Mouldings/371405333825 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 1''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-Arch-Mouldings-/371405333823 '''Super large set of the same clips from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Prado-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/391217719328 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/371405333842 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 3'']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-09304.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Toyota P.N. <font face="courier">90904-67037</font> is the same part as this Suzuki P.N.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08328</font>:<br />
* [http://zekkert.de/en/ Zekkert] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="Courier">[http://zekkert.de/en/Catalogue/Detail/BE-3529 BE-3529]</font><br />
* [https://gloveboxdirect.com/suzuki/sx4/09409-08328-000/p2/ '''Glovebox from UK''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine-Suzuki-SX4-BUMPER-ARCH-TRIM-CLIPS-CLIP-WHITE-09409-08328-PACK-OF-10-/183558160800 '''Ebay UK seller "parts_sims_suzuki"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08328.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* [https://www.monotaro.sg/p/19519456/ '''Monotaro.sg store''']<br />
* [http://www.grtgroup.net/suzuki-patenti-kopce-i-zabice/suzuki-jimny-kopce-za-ukrasnu-lajsnu '''GRT Group from Serbia''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328-urb ''Alkatreszparadicsom from Hungary'']<br />
* [https://www.suzukialkatresz.com/en/spd/S-09409-08328-E/Suzuki-Swift-2005-gt-SX4-diszlec-kuszob-boritas-pa '''Suzukialkatresz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.teszvesz.hu/patent-diszlec-suzuki-jimny-13x8x16mm-feher-187574-09409-08328-2513342582.html '''Teszvesz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/suzuki/clip-0940908328000 '''Megazip store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-06324</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-06324 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08326</font> and <font face="courier">09409-08332</font> (should be mutually compatible):<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/radio-facia-retaining-clips.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.motointegrator.de/artikel/1123318-befestigung-romix-c60640-10-stueck ''Motointegrator.de'']<br />
* Note: Aftermarket product [https://www.romix.pl/gniazdo-montazowe-c60640-p7716.html Romix C60640] should be the same as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-08332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
A Polish company [http://www.romix.pl Romix] produces various automotive clips, rivets, fasteners etc. They produce some compatible clips for Jimnys 3. You can search through their catalogue [https://www.romix.pl/search_ajax,n-82 here].<br />
* Example 1: [https://www.romix.pl/gniazdo-montazowe-c60640-p7716.html Romix C60640] as a substitute for Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-08332</font>.<br />
* Example 2: [https://www.romix.pl/kolek-rozporowy-b23143-p7026.html Romix B23143] as a substitute for Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Body - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clips_and_bits_for_body_and_trim_elements&diff=9960
Clips and bits for body and trim elements
2022-04-26T08:43:25Z
<p>Bosanek: Added info about Romix B23143</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki Jimny is a modern, plastic-infused vehicle. <br />
* Therefore, most Jimny's body and trim panels are interconnected by plastic clips and/or rivets as opposed to screws, as is the case with most modern vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The reason for that is that in the 21st century, screws (which usually have to be visible) have become unstylish, old-fashioned, distasteful, ugly, vulgar, repugnant, blasphemous and they break the design contours.<br />
* Therefore, since screws are highly undesireable for all the mentioned reasons, vehicle designers have come up with another interconnecting method for various body and trim panels - plastic clips of various shapes and latching designs.<br />
<br />
* Clips and rivets are futuristic, high-tech, sexy, sensual, smart, slick, smooth, unobtrusive and above all can be easily hidden or obscured, and therefore they do not spoil the design contours and do not distract people from enjoying the beauties of life when spending their precious time in their all-lookalike disposable vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, since clips are usually hidden, they are also usually inaccessible to dismount when separating body panels or trim pieces.<br />
* Even when a clip or rivet is accessible, it is usually quite tricky to de-latch it (dismount it) without damaging the clip or spending an excessive amount of time gently fiddling with it.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, it is quite common to break or lose a lot of clips or rivets when dismounting certain vehicle or body trim panels.<br />
* However, finding a matching replacement can be quite an effort, since many clips and rivet types look alike on a first (and even second and third) glance.<br />
* However, looking similar is not important, but fitting exactly is important.<br />
** In order for a replacement rivet or clip to fit exactly, it usually has to have exact same shapes and contours in order to latch properly.<br />
** That is why this article exists - to help you find exactly matching replacement clips for the needed type of clips for a Jimny.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Clip and rivet types ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables in this article contain the data compiled from official Suzuki's parts catalogues and diagrams about various types of clips and rivets used in Jimnys.<br />
* The situation in your Jimny might differ from the data stated below if you have some relatively rare edition (possibly some Santana Jimnys from Spain, some cabrio Jimnys, or whatnot).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on vehicle "types" / revisions ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since Jimnys have been in production for 20 years, there have been many revisions along.<br />
** Therefore, many clips, bolts, screws etc. differ for different Jimny revisions / types.<br />
** This article has tried to cover and distinguish as much of those differences as possible.<br />
*** However, there is no guarantee about the accuracy of any data regarding compatibility of a certain part with a certain Jimny vehicle.<br />
* The article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|'''"Manuals and owners guides"''']] explains the story about various Jimny editions and types in great detail.<br />
** For lazy readers - in (very) short, all Jimny revisions can be classified into three groups:<br />
**# Oldest group from 1998 to 2005 (types 1-4, partially type 5);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 1st model front bumper and 1st edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# Intermediate group from 2005 to 2013 (partially type 5, types 6-8, partially type 9);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 2nd model front bumper and 2nd edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# The newest group from 2013 to 2018 (partially type 9, types 10-12).<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 3rd model front bumper and 3rd edition front interior (instrument panel, steering wheel).<br />
** The tables below contain the data with which Jimny types a certain part is compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny clips, bolts and bits ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front hood ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from the Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Front hood panel";<br />
* "Body -> Garnish".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front hood<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-04304<br />
|1-12<br />
|10<br />
|Holds the scoop where the front end of the front bumper rests on?<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07311<br />
|1-4<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07332<br />
|5-12<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Clip, Connects part of the fake power bulge to the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|9-12<br />
|3<br />
|Holds the cover on the front cross-member below the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-8<br />
|5<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on upper part;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on lower part;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables below contain some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front bumper".<br />
* Each of the three bumper models / editions has their own dedicated table.<br />
* See the wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for more details about front bumper models.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 1st model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66004<br />
|1-5<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for l-bracket under bumper and also for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumber section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|02142-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3 <br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|1<br />
|Bolt to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 2nd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front crossmember;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09125-06121<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616B<br />
|6-12<br />
|3<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for the skid plate extension;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 3rd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|71761-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around left front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|71751-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around right front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for securing the lowest section of the bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|1-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Also connects the front center grille to cross-member;<br>Replaces and improves upon older compatible P.N. 09409-07332;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616A<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw, for connecting front grille to crossmember;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Rear bumper".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear bumper<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06061<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw (6x20), connects rear bumper to rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the rear bumper to the rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Screw, for license plate holder;<br>Should be interchangeable with screw P.N. 03541-0512A;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06094<br />
|6-7<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06245<br />
|7-12<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front side fender ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front fender".<br />
* All quantities in the table are for both fenders together.<br />
** Divide quantities by 2 for a single fender.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front side fender<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06123<br />
|1-5<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|01550-0612A<br />
|6-12<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the clip or screw which connects the front inner wheel arch to the front fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|14-20<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to fender;<br>Quantity depends on vehicle type;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08327<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, connects fender cover in the engine bay to fender;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along front wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08328<br />
|1-12<br />
|26<br />
|Clip, connects side door moulding to side door;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door sill moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard" and in the diagram category "Body -> Garnish".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door sill moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|4?<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09250-10016<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Cap in the bottom of side door sill;<br>Purpuse is to enable water drainage while preventing water ingress from below;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along rear wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects rear wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Interior trim ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Roof lining";<br />
* "Body -> Front door panel";<br />
* "Body -> Back door panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Instrument panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Interior trim";<br />
<br />
<br />
Most of the clips, rivets and screws from the dash board and instrument panel have not been included in the table, as it is a massive collection there which would take days to investigate!<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Interior trim<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-05307-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|5<br />
|Rivet, connects rear part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06310<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects front part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br>Replaced by interchangeable rivet P.N. 09409-06326-xxx;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|14<br />
|Clip, connects side door trim card to door frame;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08308-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, secures side door trim card to door frame;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix are T01 and P4Z, indicating some grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A01-xxx<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is T01 indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A50-xxx<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03542-06253<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0625A<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06024<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|11<br />
|Clip, connects rear door interior trim card to rear door frame;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08326<br />
|5-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip which connects the garnish around radio and heating controls to dash board;<br>Interchangeable P.N. is 09409-08332; <br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, holds inner trim at "A" pillar in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06322-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, holds the trim cover in front of front speaker in place;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|24<br />
|Clip, connects upper rear side inner trim (around rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08322<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Example source: [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-E-CO-Spoiler-Fastener-Clips-SUZUKI-Jimny-71525-0940908322000/252791103565?epid=716626627&hash=item3adb86204d:g:FHMAAOSw3v5YsEj7 Ebay item];<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Deep clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|03141-0512A<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-05044<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Nut for screw 03141-0512A;<br>Used by only one screw per vehicle side;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Lamps ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* Electrical -> Front fog lamp;<br />
* Electrical -> Rear lamp;<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities are per individual lamp.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Lamps<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|02112-7516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|35665-81A10<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, fixes lower rear lamp to rear bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|71812-78F00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper left rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|35684-81A00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper right rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
== Aftermarket clips & bits sources ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The lists below contain specific links to sources of original OEM parts as well as aftermarket equivalents.<br />
** Articles written in '''bold typeface''' are the original OEM parts or aftermarket equivalents which have been tested by a Jimny owner as being fully compatible and of good quality.<br />
** Articles written in ''italic typeface'' are aftermarket equivalents which have not been tested by a Jimny user, but should (by all seller statements and item pictures) fit just fine.<br />
* No affiliation (should) exists between the person who added a certain article into this table and those who sell it.<br />
** All articles are sorted alphabetically.<br />
* The purpose is simply to aid the community with specific finds on cheap, compatible clips and bits as an alternative to buying expensive original clips and bits from Suzuki dealers.<br />
** There might be even cheaper and still fully compatible and good quality alternatives available elsewhere.<br />
*** Add them here if you find them!<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09132-06022</font>:<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/surub-caroserie-jimny-09132-06022.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> and <font face="courier">09409-07340</font> (mutually compatible, the latter one is an improved revision):<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267117</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-ug ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 3'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-Mazda-9s9-AK-07332/131134615405 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.de/itm/20x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-FIAT-SUZUKI-MAZDA/131134620864 '''A larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/15x-BEFESTIGUNGSCLIPS-SUZUKI-FIAT-TOYOTA-RADHAUS-HALTERUNG-KLIPS-0940907332-NEU/171327846732 '''Ebay DE seller "myba-shop"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-8mm-Hole-Wheel-Arch-Liner-Clips-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Inner-Wing-Subaru/291699535162 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-SUZUKI-INTERIOR-PANEL-PUSH-TRIM-CLIP-BODY-DOOR-7-8MM-/331805229166 ''Ebay UK seller "procarparts4u"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-SUZUKI-TOYOTA-MAZDA-LEXUS-WHEEL-ARCH-BUMPER-SPLASHGUARD-TRIM-CLIPS-1004683/142053647078 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07332-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Mazda P.N. <font face="courier">9S9AK-07332</font> is verified to be the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
* Note: The following products ''should be'' the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>:<br />
** Fiat P.N. <font face="courier">71 741 883</font> and <font face="courier">71 768 111</font>;<br />
** Honda P.N. <font face="courier">73155SS0004</font>;<br />
** Subaru P.N. <font face="courier">50267117</font>;<br />
** Toyota & Lexus P.N. <font face="courier">90467-07164</font>;<br />
* Note: The following products should be technically compatible with Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> (same shape and fits the same holes, but different appearance):<br />
** Citroen & Peugeot P.N. <font face="courier">6822N2</font>;<br />
* Note: Aftermarket product [https://www.romix.pl/kolek-rozporowy-b23143-p7026.html Romix B23143] should be the same as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07308</font>:<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267219</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-t01-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-5pk-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/371405314724 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708894 '''Larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708888 '''Super large set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-7mm-BLACK-RIVET-TRIM-CLIPS-for-SUZUKI-FRONT-REAR-BUMPER-SILL-SIDE-SKIRT-SILL/323809252204 ''Ebay UK seller "adl-componentsltd"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162801266114 Ebay UK seller ''"nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 1'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUZUKI-MITSUBISHI-G-M-BUMPER-SIDESKIRT-FRONT-GRILL-TRIM-CLIPS-X10/162801271468 ''Ebay UK seller "nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-MITSUBISHI-SUZUKI-TRIM-RIVET-BUMPER-MOUNTING-CLIPS-1000609/142115770161 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Volvo P.N. <font face="courier">987789</font> should also be the same part as this Suzuki part.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08320</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ubg ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ukjb ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10X-TOYOTA-67771-02030-SUZUKI-09409-08320-TURVERKLEIDUNG-INNEN-VERKLEIDUNG-CLIP/141282093628 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-TOYOTA-LEXUS-SUZUKI-GM-INTERIOR-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-RETAINER-CLIPS-1009069/142190717043 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08320-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08308</font>:<br />
* [https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-Nylon-Black-Fastener-Fender-Bumper-Fairing-Trim-Cover-Clips-Fit-6-8mm-Hole/322929074551 ''Ebay China seller "lixibin2017_8"'']<br />
** This set contains mix of two different rivet types, of which one should be equivalent to this Suzuki part number.<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Suzuki-Fairing-Shield-Trim-Cover-Clips-for-GSX-Bergman-V-Strom/371783087561 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-09304</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-09304 ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket part'']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki-p323.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Arch-Mouldings/371405333825 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 1''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-Arch-Mouldings-/371405333823 '''Super large set of the same clips from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Prado-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/391217719328 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/371405333842 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 3'']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-09304.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Toyota P.N. <font face="courier">90904-67037</font> is the same part as this Suzuki P.N.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08328</font>:<br />
* [http://zekkert.de/en/ Zekkert] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="Courier">[http://zekkert.de/en/Catalogue/Detail/BE-3529 BE-3529]</font><br />
* [https://gloveboxdirect.com/suzuki/sx4/09409-08328-000/p2/ '''Glovebox from UK''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine-Suzuki-SX4-BUMPER-ARCH-TRIM-CLIPS-CLIP-WHITE-09409-08328-PACK-OF-10-/183558160800 '''Ebay UK seller "parts_sims_suzuki"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08328.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* [https://www.monotaro.sg/p/19519456/ '''Monotaro.sg store''']<br />
* [http://www.grtgroup.net/suzuki-patenti-kopce-i-zabice/suzuki-jimny-kopce-za-ukrasnu-lajsnu '''GRT Group from Serbia''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328-urb ''Alkatreszparadicsom from Hungary'']<br />
* [https://www.suzukialkatresz.com/en/spd/S-09409-08328-E/Suzuki-Swift-2005-gt-SX4-diszlec-kuszob-boritas-pa '''Suzukialkatresz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.teszvesz.hu/patent-diszlec-suzuki-jimny-13x8x16mm-feher-187574-09409-08328-2513342582.html '''Teszvesz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/suzuki/clip-0940908328000 '''Megazip store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-06324</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-06324 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08326</font> and <font face="courier">09409-08332</font> (should be mutually compatible):<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/radio-facia-retaining-clips.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.motointegrator.de/artikel/1123318-befestigung-romix-c60640-10-stueck ''Motointegrator.de'']<br />
* Note: Aftermarket product [https://www.romix.pl/gniazdo-montazowe-c60640-p7716.html Romix C60640] should be the same as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-08332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
A Polish company [http://www.romix.pl Romix] produces various automotive clips, rivets, fasteners etc. They produce some compatible clips for Jimnys 3. You can search through their catalogue [https://www.romix.pl/search_ajax,n-82 here].<br />
* Example 1: [https://www.romix.pl/gniazdo-montazowe-c60640-p7716.html Romix C60640] as a substitute for Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-08332</font>.<br />
* Example 2: [https://www.romix.pl/kolek-rozporowy-b23143-p7026.html Romix B23143] as a substitute for Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Body - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clips_and_bits_for_body_and_trim_elements&diff=9959
Clips and bits for body and trim elements
2022-04-26T08:33:25Z
<p>Bosanek: Modified info on Citroen clip 6822N2</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki Jimny is a modern, plastic-infused vehicle. <br />
* Therefore, most Jimny's body and trim panels are interconnected by plastic clips and/or rivets as opposed to screws, as is the case with most modern vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The reason for that is that in the 21st century, screws (which usually have to be visible) have become unstylish, old-fashioned, distasteful, ugly, vulgar, repugnant, blasphemous and they break the design contours.<br />
* Therefore, since screws are highly undesireable for all the mentioned reasons, vehicle designers have come up with another interconnecting method for various body and trim panels - plastic clips of various shapes and latching designs.<br />
<br />
* Clips and rivets are futuristic, high-tech, sexy, sensual, smart, slick, smooth, unobtrusive and above all can be easily hidden or obscured, and therefore they do not spoil the design contours and do not distract people from enjoying the beauties of life when spending their precious time in their all-lookalike disposable vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, since clips are usually hidden, they are also usually inaccessible to dismount when separating body panels or trim pieces.<br />
* Even when a clip or rivet is accessible, it is usually quite tricky to de-latch it (dismount it) without damaging the clip or spending an excessive amount of time gently fiddling with it.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, it is quite common to break or lose a lot of clips or rivets when dismounting certain vehicle or body trim panels.<br />
* However, finding a matching replacement can be quite an effort, since many clips and rivet types look alike on a first (and even second and third) glance.<br />
* However, looking similar is not important, but fitting exactly is important.<br />
** In order for a replacement rivet or clip to fit exactly, it usually has to have exact same shapes and contours in order to latch properly.<br />
** That is why this article exists - to help you find exactly matching replacement clips for the needed type of clips for a Jimny.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Clip and rivet types ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables in this article contain the data compiled from official Suzuki's parts catalogues and diagrams about various types of clips and rivets used in Jimnys.<br />
* The situation in your Jimny might differ from the data stated below if you have some relatively rare edition (possibly some Santana Jimnys from Spain, some cabrio Jimnys, or whatnot).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on vehicle "types" / revisions ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since Jimnys have been in production for 20 years, there have been many revisions along.<br />
** Therefore, many clips, bolts, screws etc. differ for different Jimny revisions / types.<br />
** This article has tried to cover and distinguish as much of those differences as possible.<br />
*** However, there is no guarantee about the accuracy of any data regarding compatibility of a certain part with a certain Jimny vehicle.<br />
* The article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|'''"Manuals and owners guides"''']] explains the story about various Jimny editions and types in great detail.<br />
** For lazy readers - in (very) short, all Jimny revisions can be classified into three groups:<br />
**# Oldest group from 1998 to 2005 (types 1-4, partially type 5);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 1st model front bumper and 1st edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# Intermediate group from 2005 to 2013 (partially type 5, types 6-8, partially type 9);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 2nd model front bumper and 2nd edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# The newest group from 2013 to 2018 (partially type 9, types 10-12).<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 3rd model front bumper and 3rd edition front interior (instrument panel, steering wheel).<br />
** The tables below contain the data with which Jimny types a certain part is compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny clips, bolts and bits ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front hood ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from the Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Front hood panel";<br />
* "Body -> Garnish".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front hood<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-04304<br />
|1-12<br />
|10<br />
|Holds the scoop where the front end of the front bumper rests on?<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07311<br />
|1-4<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07332<br />
|5-12<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Clip, Connects part of the fake power bulge to the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|9-12<br />
|3<br />
|Holds the cover on the front cross-member below the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-8<br />
|5<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on upper part;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on lower part;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables below contain some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front bumper".<br />
* Each of the three bumper models / editions has their own dedicated table.<br />
* See the wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for more details about front bumper models.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 1st model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66004<br />
|1-5<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for l-bracket under bumper and also for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumber section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|02142-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3 <br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|1<br />
|Bolt to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 2nd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front crossmember;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09125-06121<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616B<br />
|6-12<br />
|3<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for the skid plate extension;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 3rd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|71761-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around left front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|71751-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around right front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for securing the lowest section of the bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|1-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Also connects the front center grille to cross-member;<br>Replaces and improves upon older compatible P.N. 09409-07332;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616A<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw, for connecting front grille to crossmember;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Rear bumper".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear bumper<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06061<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw (6x20), connects rear bumper to rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the rear bumper to the rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Screw, for license plate holder;<br>Should be interchangeable with screw P.N. 03541-0512A;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06094<br />
|6-7<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06245<br />
|7-12<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front side fender ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front fender".<br />
* All quantities in the table are for both fenders together.<br />
** Divide quantities by 2 for a single fender.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front side fender<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06123<br />
|1-5<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|01550-0612A<br />
|6-12<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the clip or screw which connects the front inner wheel arch to the front fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|14-20<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to fender;<br>Quantity depends on vehicle type;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08327<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, connects fender cover in the engine bay to fender;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along front wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08328<br />
|1-12<br />
|26<br />
|Clip, connects side door moulding to side door;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door sill moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard" and in the diagram category "Body -> Garnish".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door sill moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|4?<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09250-10016<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Cap in the bottom of side door sill;<br>Purpuse is to enable water drainage while preventing water ingress from below;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along rear wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects rear wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Interior trim ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Roof lining";<br />
* "Body -> Front door panel";<br />
* "Body -> Back door panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Instrument panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Interior trim";<br />
<br />
<br />
Most of the clips, rivets and screws from the dash board and instrument panel have not been included in the table, as it is a massive collection there which would take days to investigate!<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Interior trim<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-05307-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|5<br />
|Rivet, connects rear part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06310<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects front part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br>Replaced by interchangeable rivet P.N. 09409-06326-xxx;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|14<br />
|Clip, connects side door trim card to door frame;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08308-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, secures side door trim card to door frame;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix are T01 and P4Z, indicating some grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A01-xxx<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is T01 indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A50-xxx<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03542-06253<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0625A<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06024<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|11<br />
|Clip, connects rear door interior trim card to rear door frame;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08326<br />
|5-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip which connects the garnish around radio and heating controls to dash board;<br>Interchangeable P.N. is 09409-08332; <br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, holds inner trim at "A" pillar in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06322-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, holds the trim cover in front of front speaker in place;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|24<br />
|Clip, connects upper rear side inner trim (around rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08322<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Example source: [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-E-CO-Spoiler-Fastener-Clips-SUZUKI-Jimny-71525-0940908322000/252791103565?epid=716626627&hash=item3adb86204d:g:FHMAAOSw3v5YsEj7 Ebay item];<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Deep clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|03141-0512A<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-05044<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Nut for screw 03141-0512A;<br>Used by only one screw per vehicle side;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Lamps ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* Electrical -> Front fog lamp;<br />
* Electrical -> Rear lamp;<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities are per individual lamp.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Lamps<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|02112-7516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|35665-81A10<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, fixes lower rear lamp to rear bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|71812-78F00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper left rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|35684-81A00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper right rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
== Aftermarket clips & bits sources ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The lists below contain specific links to sources of original OEM parts as well as aftermarket equivalents.<br />
** Articles written in '''bold typeface''' are the original OEM parts or aftermarket equivalents which have been tested by a Jimny owner as being fully compatible and of good quality.<br />
** Articles written in ''italic typeface'' are aftermarket equivalents which have not been tested by a Jimny user, but should (by all seller statements and item pictures) fit just fine.<br />
* No affiliation (should) exists between the person who added a certain article into this table and those who sell it.<br />
** All articles are sorted alphabetically.<br />
* The purpose is simply to aid the community with specific finds on cheap, compatible clips and bits as an alternative to buying expensive original clips and bits from Suzuki dealers.<br />
** There might be even cheaper and still fully compatible and good quality alternatives available elsewhere.<br />
*** Add them here if you find them!<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09132-06022</font>:<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/surub-caroserie-jimny-09132-06022.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> and <font face="courier">09409-07340</font> (mutually compatible, the latter one is an improved revision):<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267117</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-ug ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 3'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-Mazda-9s9-AK-07332/131134615405 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.de/itm/20x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-FIAT-SUZUKI-MAZDA/131134620864 '''A larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/15x-BEFESTIGUNGSCLIPS-SUZUKI-FIAT-TOYOTA-RADHAUS-HALTERUNG-KLIPS-0940907332-NEU/171327846732 '''Ebay DE seller "myba-shop"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-8mm-Hole-Wheel-Arch-Liner-Clips-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Inner-Wing-Subaru/291699535162 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-SUZUKI-INTERIOR-PANEL-PUSH-TRIM-CLIP-BODY-DOOR-7-8MM-/331805229166 ''Ebay UK seller "procarparts4u"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-SUZUKI-TOYOTA-MAZDA-LEXUS-WHEEL-ARCH-BUMPER-SPLASHGUARD-TRIM-CLIPS-1004683/142053647078 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07332-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Mazda P.N. <font face="courier">9S9AK-07332</font> is verified to be the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
* Note: The following products ''should be'' the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>:<br />
** Fiat P.N. <font face="courier">71 741 883</font> and <font face="courier">71 768 111</font>;<br />
** Honda P.N. <font face="courier">73155SS0004</font>;<br />
** Subaru P.N. <font face="courier">50267117</font>;<br />
** Toyota & Lexus P.N. <font face="courier">90467-07164</font>;<br />
* Note: The following products should be technically compatible with Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> (same shape and fits the same holes, but different appearance):<br />
** Citroen & Peugeot P.N. <font face="courier">6822N2</font>;<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07308</font>:<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267219</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-t01-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-5pk-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/371405314724 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708894 '''Larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708888 '''Super large set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-7mm-BLACK-RIVET-TRIM-CLIPS-for-SUZUKI-FRONT-REAR-BUMPER-SILL-SIDE-SKIRT-SILL/323809252204 ''Ebay UK seller "adl-componentsltd"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162801266114 Ebay UK seller ''"nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 1'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUZUKI-MITSUBISHI-G-M-BUMPER-SIDESKIRT-FRONT-GRILL-TRIM-CLIPS-X10/162801271468 ''Ebay UK seller "nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-MITSUBISHI-SUZUKI-TRIM-RIVET-BUMPER-MOUNTING-CLIPS-1000609/142115770161 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Volvo P.N. <font face="courier">987789</font> should also be the same part as this Suzuki part.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08320</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ubg ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ukjb ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10X-TOYOTA-67771-02030-SUZUKI-09409-08320-TURVERKLEIDUNG-INNEN-VERKLEIDUNG-CLIP/141282093628 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-TOYOTA-LEXUS-SUZUKI-GM-INTERIOR-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-RETAINER-CLIPS-1009069/142190717043 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08320-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08308</font>:<br />
* [https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-Nylon-Black-Fastener-Fender-Bumper-Fairing-Trim-Cover-Clips-Fit-6-8mm-Hole/322929074551 ''Ebay China seller "lixibin2017_8"'']<br />
** This set contains mix of two different rivet types, of which one should be equivalent to this Suzuki part number.<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Suzuki-Fairing-Shield-Trim-Cover-Clips-for-GSX-Bergman-V-Strom/371783087561 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-09304</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-09304 ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket part'']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki-p323.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Arch-Mouldings/371405333825 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 1''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-Arch-Mouldings-/371405333823 '''Super large set of the same clips from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Prado-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/391217719328 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/371405333842 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 3'']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-09304.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Toyota P.N. <font face="courier">90904-67037</font> is the same part as this Suzuki P.N.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08328</font>:<br />
* [http://zekkert.de/en/ Zekkert] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="Courier">[http://zekkert.de/en/Catalogue/Detail/BE-3529 BE-3529]</font><br />
* [https://gloveboxdirect.com/suzuki/sx4/09409-08328-000/p2/ '''Glovebox from UK''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine-Suzuki-SX4-BUMPER-ARCH-TRIM-CLIPS-CLIP-WHITE-09409-08328-PACK-OF-10-/183558160800 '''Ebay UK seller "parts_sims_suzuki"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08328.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* [https://www.monotaro.sg/p/19519456/ '''Monotaro.sg store''']<br />
* [http://www.grtgroup.net/suzuki-patenti-kopce-i-zabice/suzuki-jimny-kopce-za-ukrasnu-lajsnu '''GRT Group from Serbia''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328-urb ''Alkatreszparadicsom from Hungary'']<br />
* [https://www.suzukialkatresz.com/en/spd/S-09409-08328-E/Suzuki-Swift-2005-gt-SX4-diszlec-kuszob-boritas-pa '''Suzukialkatresz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.teszvesz.hu/patent-diszlec-suzuki-jimny-13x8x16mm-feher-187574-09409-08328-2513342582.html '''Teszvesz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/suzuki/clip-0940908328000 '''Megazip store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-06324</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-06324 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08326</font> and <font face="courier">09409-08332</font> (should be mutually compatible):<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/radio-facia-retaining-clips.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.motointegrator.de/artikel/1123318-befestigung-romix-c60640-10-stueck ''Motointegrator.de'']<br />
<br />
<br />
A Polish company [http://www.romix.pl Romix] produces various automotive clips, rivets, fasteners etc. They produce some compatible clips for Jimnys 3. You can search through their catalogue [https://www.romix.pl/search_ajax,n-82 here].<br />
* Example: [https://www.romix.pl/gniazdo-montazowe-c60640-p7716.html Romix C60640] as a substitute for Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-08332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Body - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clips_and_bits_for_body_and_trim_elements&diff=9958
Clips and bits for body and trim elements
2022-04-26T08:26:20Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a compatible Citroen & Peugeot clip 6822N2</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki Jimny is a modern, plastic-infused vehicle. <br />
* Therefore, most Jimny's body and trim panels are interconnected by plastic clips and/or rivets as opposed to screws, as is the case with most modern vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* The reason for that is that in the 21st century, screws (which usually have to be visible) have become unstylish, old-fashioned, distasteful, ugly, vulgar, repugnant, blasphemous and they break the design contours.<br />
* Therefore, since screws are highly undesireable for all the mentioned reasons, vehicle designers have come up with another interconnecting method for various body and trim panels - plastic clips of various shapes and latching designs.<br />
<br />
* Clips and rivets are futuristic, high-tech, sexy, sensual, smart, slick, smooth, unobtrusive and above all can be easily hidden or obscured, and therefore they do not spoil the design contours and do not distract people from enjoying the beauties of life when spending their precious time in their all-lookalike disposable vehicles.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, since clips are usually hidden, they are also usually inaccessible to dismount when separating body panels or trim pieces.<br />
* Even when a clip or rivet is accessible, it is usually quite tricky to de-latch it (dismount it) without damaging the clip or spending an excessive amount of time gently fiddling with it.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Therefore, it is quite common to break or lose a lot of clips or rivets when dismounting certain vehicle or body trim panels.<br />
* However, finding a matching replacement can be quite an effort, since many clips and rivet types look alike on a first (and even second and third) glance.<br />
* However, looking similar is not important, but fitting exactly is important.<br />
** In order for a replacement rivet or clip to fit exactly, it usually has to have exact same shapes and contours in order to latch properly.<br />
** That is why this article exists - to help you find exactly matching replacement clips for the needed type of clips for a Jimny.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Clip and rivet types ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables in this article contain the data compiled from official Suzuki's parts catalogues and diagrams about various types of clips and rivets used in Jimnys.<br />
* The situation in your Jimny might differ from the data stated below if you have some relatively rare edition (possibly some Santana Jimnys from Spain, some cabrio Jimnys, or whatnot).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Notes on vehicle "types" / revisions ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Since Jimnys have been in production for 20 years, there have been many revisions along.<br />
** Therefore, many clips, bolts, screws etc. differ for different Jimny revisions / types.<br />
** This article has tried to cover and distinguish as much of those differences as possible.<br />
*** However, there is no guarantee about the accuracy of any data regarding compatibility of a certain part with a certain Jimny vehicle.<br />
* The article [[Manuals and Owners Guides|'''"Manuals and owners guides"''']] explains the story about various Jimny editions and types in great detail.<br />
** For lazy readers - in (very) short, all Jimny revisions can be classified into three groups:<br />
**# Oldest group from 1998 to 2005 (types 1-4, partially type 5);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 1st model front bumper and 1st edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# Intermediate group from 2005 to 2013 (partially type 5, types 6-8, partially type 9);<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 2nd model front bumper and 2nd edition front interior (dash board, instrument panel, etc.).<br />
**# The newest group from 2013 to 2018 (partially type 9, types 10-12).<br />
**#* These are (usually) distinguished by having 3rd model front bumper and 3rd edition front interior (instrument panel, steering wheel).<br />
** The tables below contain the data with which Jimny types a certain part is compatible.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny clips, bolts and bits ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front hood ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from the Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Front hood panel";<br />
* "Body -> Garnish".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front hood<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-04304<br />
|1-12<br />
|10<br />
|Holds the scoop where the front end of the front bumper rests on?<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07311<br />
|1-4<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09403-07332<br />
|5-12<br />
|1<br />
|Holds the hood's support rod in place when it is in resting position;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Clip, Connects part of the fake power bulge to the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|9-12<br />
|3<br />
|Holds the cover on the front cross-member below the bonnet;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-8<br />
|5<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on upper part;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects ventilation cowl between front hood and front windscreen to vehicle body on lower part;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The tables below contain some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front bumper".<br />
* Each of the three bumper models / editions has their own dedicated table.<br />
* See the wiki article [[Front bumper issues|'''"Front bumper issues"''']] for more details about front bumper models.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 1st model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66004<br />
|1-5<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for l-bracket under bumper and also for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumber section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|02142-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3 <br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06163<br />
|1-5<br />
|1<br />
|Bolt to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 2nd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|3<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front crossmember;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for connection of lower skid plate section to main upper bumper section;<br />
|-<br />
|09125-06121<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for connection of plastic skid plate to bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06323<br />
|1-8<br />
|10<br />
|Clip to hold the in-bonnet front grille in place;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616B<br />
|6-12<br />
|3<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket for the skid plate to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw for the skid plate extension;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front bumper, 3rd model<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|71761-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around left front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|71751-57M10-5PK<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Bezel around right front fog lamp (needed if retrofitting front fog lamps);<br />
|-<br />
|09122-66007<br />
|6-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw (6x14) for securing the lowest section of the bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw (6x20) for connection of bumper to side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the front bumper to the front side fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07340<br />
|1-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip, connects the top of the front bumper to the front cross-member;<br>Also connects the front center grille to cross-member;<br>Replaces and improves upon older compatible P.N. 09409-07332;<br />
|-<br />
|02162-0616A<br />
|9-12<br />
|1<br />
|Screw to connect the L-bracket to vehicle's body;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|5<br />
|Screw, for connecting front grille to crossmember;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear bumper ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Rear bumper".<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear bumper<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06061<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw (6x20), connects rear bumper to rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the screw which connects the rear bumper to the rear fender;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|7<br />
|Screw, for license plate holder;<br>Should be interchangeable with screw P.N. 03541-0512A;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06094<br />
|6-7<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09111-06245<br />
|7-12<br />
|7<br />
|Bolt (16x6.5), connects rear bumper to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front side fender ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's parts catalogue/diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Front fender".<br />
* All quantities in the table are for both fenders together.<br />
** Divide quantities by 2 for a single fender.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front side fender<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-06123<br />
|1-5<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|01550-0612A<br />
|6-12<br />
|12<br />
|Bolt, connects front fender panel to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Fixed plastic cut-out nut for the clip or screw which connects the front inner wheel arch to the front fender;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|14-20<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to fender;<br>Quantity depends on vehicle type;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08327<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, connects fender cover in the engine bay to fender;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Front wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Front wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along front wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09132-06022<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects inner wheel arch to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08328<br />
|1-12<br />
|26<br />
|Clip, connects side door moulding to side door;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Side door sill moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard" and in the diagram category "Body -> Garnish".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Side door sill moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|12<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|4?<br />
|Clip, connects side door sill moulding to side door sill;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|09250-10016<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Cap in the bottom of side door sill;<br>Purpuse is to enable water drainage while preventing water ingress from below;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Rear wheel arch moulding ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the diagram category "Body -> Splash guard".<br />
* All quantities are stated for both vehicle sides.<br />
** If doing only one vehicle side, divide the quantity by 2.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Rear wheel arch moulding<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|77610-81A00-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rubber seal, along rear wheel arch moulding;<br>There are various "XXX" suffixes for different colors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-09304<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects rear wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07332<br />
|1-12<br />
|8?<br />
|Clip, connects wheel arch moulding to vehicle body;<br>Replaced with newer improved and compatible P.N. 09409-07340;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Interior trim ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* "Body -> Roof lining";<br />
* "Body -> Front door panel";<br />
* "Body -> Back door panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Instrument panel";<br />
* "Interior trim -> Interior trim";<br />
<br />
<br />
Most of the clips, rivets and screws from the dash board and instrument panel have not been included in the table, as it is a massive collection there which would take days to investigate!<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Interior trim<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|09409-05307-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|5<br />
|Rivet, connects rear part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06310<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects front part of interior roof lining to roof;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is "6GS" indicating grey color;<br>Replaced by interchangeable rivet P.N. 09409-06326-xxx;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|14<br />
|Clip, connects side door trim card to door frame;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08308-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, secures side door trim card to door frame;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix are T01 and P4Z, indicating some grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A01-xxx<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is T01 indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|84463-81A50-xxx<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Cap for screw hole on interior side door grip handle;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03542-06253<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06007<br />
|1-4<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0625A<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-06024<br />
|5-12<br />
|4<br />
|Fixed plastic nut for screw which holds the interior side door grip handle in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both side doors;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|11<br />
|Clip, connects rear door interior trim card to rear door frame;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08326<br />
|5-12<br />
|6<br />
|Clip which connects the garnish around radio and heating controls to dash board;<br>Interchangeable P.N. is 09409-08332; <br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, holds inner trim at "A" pillar in place;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06322-xxx<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, holds the trim cover in front of front speaker in place;<br>Typical "XXX" suffix is P4Z indicating grey color;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|24<br />
|Clip, connects upper rear side inner trim (around rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08320<br />
|1-12<br />
|8<br />
|Clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-08322<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Rivet, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Example source: [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-E-CO-Spoiler-Fastener-Clips-SUZUKI-Jimny-71525-0940908322000/252791103565?epid=716626627&hash=item3adb86204d:g:FHMAAOSw3v5YsEj7 Ebay item];<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-10308<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Deep clip, connects lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-06324<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle body;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09409-07308<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|03141-0512A<br />
|1-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, lower rear side inner trim (below rear side windows) to vehicle floor;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|09148-05044<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Nut for screw 03141-0512A;<br>Used by only one screw per vehicle side;<br>Stated quantity is for both vehicle sides;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Lamps ===<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below contains some of the items from Suzuki's diagrams in the following diagram categories:<br />
* Electrical -> Front fog lamp;<br />
* Electrical -> Rear lamp;<br />
<br />
<br />
* All stated quantities are per individual lamp.<br />
<br />
<font face="courier"><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Lamps<br />
!Suzuki<br>P.N.<br />
!Used on<br>vehicle types<br />
!Required<br>quantity<br />
!Description<br />
|-<br />
|02162-05123<br />
|1-5<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-05163<br />
|1-5<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|02112-7516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front fog lamp bracket;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|6-8<br />
|3<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp bracket to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|03541-0516A<br />
|9-12<br />
|4<br />
|Screw, fixes front fog lamp to front bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|35665-81A10<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Screw, fixes lower rear lamp to rear bumper;<br />
|-<br />
|71812-78F00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper left rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|35684-81A00<br />
|1-12<br />
|2<br />
|Clip, secures upper right rear lamp to vehicle body;<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</font><br />
<br />
<br />
== Aftermarket clips & bits sources ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* The lists below contain specific links to sources of original OEM parts as well as aftermarket equivalents.<br />
** Articles written in '''bold typeface''' are the original OEM parts or aftermarket equivalents which have been tested by a Jimny owner as being fully compatible and of good quality.<br />
** Articles written in ''italic typeface'' are aftermarket equivalents which have not been tested by a Jimny user, but should (by all seller statements and item pictures) fit just fine.<br />
* No affiliation (should) exists between the person who added a certain article into this table and those who sell it.<br />
** All articles are sorted alphabetically.<br />
* The purpose is simply to aid the community with specific finds on cheap, compatible clips and bits as an alternative to buying expensive original clips and bits from Suzuki dealers.<br />
** There might be even cheaper and still fully compatible and good quality alternatives available elsewhere.<br />
*** Add them here if you find them!<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09132-06022</font>:<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/surub-caroserie-jimny-09132-06022.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07332</font> and <font face="courier">09409-07340</font> (mutually compatible, the latter one is an improved revision):<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267117</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-ug ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07332-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 3'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07340 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-Mazda-9s9-AK-07332/131134615405 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.de/itm/20x-KOTFLUGEL-VERKLEIDUNG-BEFESTIGUNGS-CLIP-FIAT-SUZUKI-MAZDA/131134620864 '''A larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/15x-BEFESTIGUNGSCLIPS-SUZUKI-FIAT-TOYOTA-RADHAUS-HALTERUNG-KLIPS-0940907332-NEU/171327846732 '''Ebay DE seller "myba-shop"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-8mm-Hole-Wheel-Arch-Liner-Clips-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Inner-Wing-Subaru/291699535162 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-SUZUKI-INTERIOR-PANEL-PUSH-TRIM-CLIP-BODY-DOOR-7-8MM-/331805229166 ''Ebay UK seller "procarparts4u"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-SUZUKI-TOYOTA-MAZDA-LEXUS-WHEEL-ARCH-BUMPER-SPLASHGUARD-TRIM-CLIPS-1004683/142053647078 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07332-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Mazda P.N. <font face="courier">9S9AK-07332</font> is verified to be the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>.<br />
* Note: The following products ''should be'' the same part as Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-07332</font>:<br />
** Citroen & Peugeot P.N. <font face="courier">6822N2</font>;<br />
** Fiat P.N. <font face="courier">71 741 883</font> and <font face="courier">71 768 111</font>;<br />
** Honda P.N. <font face="courier">73155SS0004</font>;<br />
** Subaru P.N. <font face="courier">50267117</font>;<br />
** Toyota & Lexus P.N. <font face="courier">90467-07164</font>;<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-07308</font>:<br />
* [https://herthundbuss.com/en/online-catalogue/ Herth+Buss] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="courier">50267219</font>.<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-t01-u ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-07308-5pk-usa ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/371405314724 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708894 '''Larger set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Suzuki-Black-Plastic-Rivets-Trim-Clips-for-Bumpers-Sideskirts-Sills-Trim/391217708888 '''Super large set of the same part from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-7mm-BLACK-RIVET-TRIM-CLIPS-for-SUZUKI-FRONT-REAR-BUMPER-SILL-SIDE-SKIRT-SILL/323809252204 ''Ebay UK seller "adl-componentsltd"'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162801266114 Ebay UK seller ''"nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 1'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUZUKI-MITSUBISHI-G-M-BUMPER-SIDESKIRT-FRONT-GRILL-TRIM-CLIPS-X10/162801271468 ''Ebay UK seller "nonstop_auto" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-MITSUBISHI-SUZUKI-TRIM-RIVET-BUMPER-MOUNTING-CLIPS-1000609/142115770161 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-07308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Volvo P.N. <font face="courier">987789</font> should also be the same part as this Suzuki part.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08320</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ubg ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 1'']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08320-ukjb ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.de/itm/10X-TOYOTA-67771-02030-SUZUKI-09409-08320-TURVERKLEIDUNG-INNEN-VERKLEIDUNG-CLIP/141282093628 '''Ebay DE seller "decardo_de"''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-TOYOTA-LEXUS-SUZUKI-GM-INTERIOR-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-RETAINER-CLIPS-1009069/142190717043 '''Ebay UK seller "uk247trade"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08320-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08308</font>:<br />
* [https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-Nylon-Black-Fastener-Fender-Bumper-Fairing-Trim-Cover-Clips-Fit-6-8mm-Hole/322929074551 ''Ebay China seller "lixibin2017_8"'']<br />
** This set contains mix of two different rivet types, of which one should be equivalent to this Suzuki part number.<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Suzuki-Fairing-Shield-Trim-Cover-Clips-for-GSX-Bergman-V-Strom/371783087561 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08308-am.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-09304</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - OEM part''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-09304 ''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu - aftermarket part'']<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/trim-panel-clip-suzuki-p323.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-for-Arch-Mouldings/371405333825 '''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 1''']<br />
** [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Toyota-Wheel-Arch-Wing-Fender-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips-Arch-Mouldings-/371405333823 '''Super large set of the same clips from the same seller''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Prado-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/391217719328 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 2'']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Side-Moulding-Wheel-Arch-Flare-Plastic-Trim-Clips/371405333842 ''Ebay UK seller "227sparts" - equivalent model 3'']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-09304.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* Note: Toyota P.N. <font face="courier">90904-67037</font> is the same part as this Suzuki P.N.<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08328</font>:<br />
* [http://zekkert.de/en/ Zekkert] makes a compatible aftermarket part marked as <font face="Courier">[http://zekkert.de/en/Catalogue/Detail/BE-3529 BE-3529]</font><br />
* [https://gloveboxdirect.com/suzuki/sx4/09409-08328-000/p2/ '''Glovebox from UK''']<br />
* [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine-Suzuki-SX4-BUMPER-ARCH-TRIM-CLIPS-CLIP-WHITE-09409-08328-PACK-OF-10-/183558160800 '''Ebay UK seller "parts_sims_suzuki"''']<br />
* [http://www.jimny4x4.ro/store/lumini-si-caroserie/clips-caroserie-jimny-09409-08328.html '''Jimny4x4.ro store''']<br />
* [https://www.monotaro.sg/p/19519456/ '''Monotaro.sg store''']<br />
* [http://www.grtgroup.net/suzuki-patenti-kopce-i-zabice/suzuki-jimny-kopce-za-ukrasnu-lajsnu '''GRT Group from Serbia''']<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-08328-urb ''Alkatreszparadicsom from Hungary'']<br />
* [https://www.suzukialkatresz.com/en/spd/S-09409-08328-E/Suzuki-Swift-2005-gt-SX4-diszlec-kuszob-boritas-pa '''Suzukialkatresz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.teszvesz.hu/patent-diszlec-suzuki-jimny-13x8x16mm-feher-187574-09409-08328-2513342582.html '''Teszvesz from Hungary''']<br />
* [https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/suzuki/clip-0940908328000 '''Megazip store''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-06324</font>:<br />
* [http://alkatreszparadicsom.hu/termekkatalogus/kategoria/karosszeria_elemek/alkategoria/karpitpatentok-diszlecpatentok-csavarok-lemezanyak/termek/09409-06324 '''Alkatreszparadicsom.hu''']<br />
<br />
<br />
Suzuki P.N. <font face="courier">09409-08326</font> and <font face="courier">09409-08332</font> (should be mutually compatible):<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/radio-facia-retaining-clips.html '''BigJimny store''']<br />
* [https://www.motointegrator.de/artikel/1123318-befestigung-romix-c60640-10-stueck ''Motointegrator.de'']<br />
<br />
<br />
A Polish company [http://www.romix.pl Romix] produces various automotive clips, rivets, fasteners etc. They produce some compatible clips for Jimnys 3. You can search through their catalogue [https://www.romix.pl/search_ajax,n-82 here].<br />
* Example: [https://www.romix.pl/gniazdo-montazowe-c60640-p7716.html Romix C60640] as a substitute for Suzuki <font face="courier">09409-08332</font>.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Body - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Drive_belts&diff=9957
Drive belts
2022-04-18T09:43:38Z
<p>Bosanek: More info on accessory drive belts</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article deals with the engine drive belts and associated tensioners, their configurations and adjustment.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Petrol Jimnys have an auxiliary belt (fan belt) and a power steering belt.<br />
** There are a number of combinations and it is essential you get the correct belt.<br />
* Diesel Jimnys have one auxiliary belt which drives all auxiliary engine devices.<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct belt for '''your''' vehicle elsewhere.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Nomenclature ==<br />
<br />
<br />
For shorter naming, these abbreviations and designations will be used in this article:<br />
* P.S. - Power Steering<br />
* A.C. - Air Conditioning<br />
* G13BB - petrol engine, used in very early petrol Jimnys 3 and many cabrio / open top petrol Jimnys 3;<br />
* M13A / M13AA / M13A VVT - family of petrol engines, used in most petrol Jimnys 3 from 2001 to 2018;<br />
** All variants of this engine are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K9K - Renault's diesel engine, used in all diesel Jimnys 3;<br />
** This engine exists in two variants, but both are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K15B - petrol engine, used in Jimnys 4;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Belt configurations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S.]]<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between pump and crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Adjust horizontal (TOP) of belt to 3 – 4 mm (0.12 – 0.16 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S. belt - part number is '''17521-84H00''' ('''4PK 850''') or '''49180-60B20''' ('''4PK 850''')<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between Pump and Crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA without P.S. but with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* A.C. belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''49181-60A00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 790''')<br />
* A.C.: Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon_PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S.+ A.C. belt - part number (which should fit all cars) is '''17521-52E00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 950''')<br />
* Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== K9K ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== K15B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
There basically two types of tensioners for petrol Jimnys 3:<br />
* One with a small center;<br />
** These are more common on the G13B engines;<br />
* One with a large center;<br />
** There are more common on the M13A family of engines;<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct tensioner for your vehicle.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Small hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13B_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-82A00.<br />
* If the bearing has worn, then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Large hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-81A00.<br />
* This tensioner is commonly called a "smilely tensioner" because of the appearance.<br />
* If the bearing has worn then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out of the outer rim and pressing the smilely centre out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing-m13a.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
==== Replacements ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* First of all, the BigJimny shop has a high quality replacement bearing for sale (read above).<br />
* However, if you for some reason want to replace the entire tensioner assembly (generally a lot more expensive), you can either buy the original Suzuki P.N. 49160-81A00, or one of the aftermarket tensioners.<br />
** Example aftermarket tensioner is [https://www.vsm.skf.com/uk/en/products/VKM66009 SKF VKM66009]<br />
<br />
<br />
* By the way, the bearing which Suzuki originally installs in this tensioner is NSK 6010DU2 (that's at least the case in M13A engined Jimnys made in 2013).<br />
** That bearing has rubber seals on both sides.<br />
** Specifications are: single-row, ball bearings, deep groove, 50 x 80 x 16 mm<br />
* NSK has allegedly superseded it with the bearing model [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_DD&yobi=6010DDU 6010DDU].<br />
** However, since the specifications of those two bearings appear to be the same, it could very well be the same bearing, but just a changed naming nomenclature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is also a "premium" edition of this bearing.<br />
** It is [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_VV&yobi=6010VV NSK 6010VV].<br />
* The "VV" suffix means that is has special "contactless" double sided rubber seals (and made of some super tech rubber), which effectively allow far higher bearing RPMs and operating temperatures.<br />
** However, this premium bearing is about 3x more expensive than the "ordinary" one.<br />
* This premium bearing may be an "overkill" for this application (in other words, the standard bearing may be sufficient), but an expert should give an opinion.<br />
** However, if someone wants to indulge themselves with this premium bearing edition (instead of using chocolate or sex dolls for a change), then buy NSK 6010VV.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Torque Settings ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Engine | reference data]]<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Drive_belts&diff=9956
Drive belts
2022-03-28T14:41:25Z
<p>Bosanek: Added generic specification parameters for two drive belts</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
* This article deals with the engine drive belts and associated tensioners, their configurations and adjustment.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Petrol Jimnys have an auxiliary belt (fan belt) and a power steering belt.<br />
** There are a number of combinations and it is essential you get the correct belt.<br />
* Diesel Jimnys have one auxiliary belt which drives all auxiliary engine devices.<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct belt for '''your''' vehicle elsewhere.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Nomenclature ==<br />
<br />
<br />
For shorter naming, these abbreviations and designations will be used in this article:<br />
* P.S. - Power Steering<br />
* A.C. - Air Conditioning<br />
* G13BB - petrol engine, used in very early petrol Jimnys 3 and many cabrio / open top petrol Jimnys 3;<br />
* M13A / M13AA / M13A VVT - family of petrol engines, used in most petrol Jimnys 3 from 2001 to 2018;<br />
** All variants of this engine are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K9K - Renault's diesel engine, used in all diesel Jimnys 3;<br />
** This engine exists in two variants, but both are effectively the same from the "drive belt choice" perspective;<br />
* K15B - petrol engine, used in Jimnys 4;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Belt details ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* Suzuki belt P.N. <font face="Courier">95141-50F01</font> has universal parameters <font face="Courier">4PK 835</font> and was originally installed in a Jimny 3 with M13A VVT engine, made in 2013, with P.S. and A.C.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Belt configurations ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S.]]<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between Pump and Crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== G13BB with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13BB with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|G13BB with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Adjust horizontal (TOP) of belt to 3 – 4 mm (0.12 – 0.16 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. but without A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - known part number for some models '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* P.S. Belt - known part numbers for some models '''17521-84H00''' or '''49180-60B20'''<br />
* Adjust mid point of belt between Pump and Crank (lower belt section) to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== M13AA with P.S. and with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon_PAS.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S. and A.C.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - known part number for some models '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
<br />
* P.S.+ A.C. Belt - known part number for some models '''17521-52E00''' (generic specification: '''4PK 950''')<br />
* Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== M13AA without P.S. but with A.C. ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA with Aircon.png|250px|thumb|left|M13AA with P.S.]]<br />
* Auxillary Belt - known part number for some models '''95141-50F01''' (generic specification: '''4PK 835''')<br />
* A.C.: Adjust horizontal (bottom) of belt to 6 – 9 mm (0.24 – 0.35 in.) of flex by adjusting tensioner<br />
* [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/belts.html Shop for V-Belts in BigJimny Shop]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== K9K ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
=== K15B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* '' Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 3 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
There basically two types of tensioners for petrol Jimnys 3:<br />
* One with a small center;<br />
** These are more common on the G13B engines;<br />
* One with a large center;<br />
** There are more common on the M13A family of engines;<br />
<br />
{{warning|You should not purchase based on guidance below - you should identify the correct tensioner for your vehicle.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Small hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:G13B_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-82A00.<br />
* If the bearing has worn, then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Large hole tensioner ===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:M13AA_tensioner.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Small hole tensioner]]<br />
<br />
* This is Suzuki part number 49160-81A00.<br />
* This tensioner is commonly called a "smilely tensioner" because of the appearance.<br />
* If the bearing has worn then it can be replaced by pressing the old bearing out of the outer rim and pressing the smilely centre out.<br />
* A suitable bearing is available in the [https://www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-tensioner-bearing-m13a.html BigJimny Shop HERE]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
==== Replacements ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* First of all, the BigJimny shop has a high quality replacement bearing for sale (read above).<br />
* However, if you for some reason want to replace the entire tensioner assembly (generally a lot more expensive), you can either buy the original Suzuki P.N. 49160-81A00, or one of the aftermarket tensioners.<br />
** Example aftermarket tensioner is [https://www.vsm.skf.com/uk/en/products/VKM66009 SKF VKM66009]<br />
<br />
<br />
* By the way, the bearing which Suzuki originally installs in this tensioner is NSK 6010DU2 (that's at least the case in M13A engined Jimnys made in 2013).<br />
** That bearing has rubber seals on both sides.<br />
** Specifications are: single-row, ball bearings, deep groove, 50 x 80 x 16 mm<br />
* NSK has allegedly superseded it with the bearing model [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_DD&yobi=6010DDU 6010DDU].<br />
** However, since the specifications of those two bearings appear to be the same, it could very well be the same bearing, but just a changed naming nomenclature.<br />
<br />
<br />
* There is also a "premium" edition of this bearing.<br />
** It is [https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnlineCatalog/en/bearing/detail.jsp?Prod_Type1=DGBB&Prod_Type2=DGBB_SR&Prod_Type3=DGBB_SR_VV&yobi=6010VV NSK 6010VV].<br />
* The "VV" suffix means that is has special "contactless" double sided rubber seals (and made of some super tech rubber), which effectively allow far higher bearing RPMs and operating temperatures.<br />
** However, this premium bearing is about 3x more expensive than the "ordinary" one.<br />
* This premium bearing may be an "overkill" for this application (in other words, the standard bearing may be sufficient), but an expert should give an opinion.<br />
** However, if someone wants to indulge themselves with this premium bearing edition (instead of using chocolate or sex dolls for a change), then buy NSK 6010VV.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tensioners for Jimnys 4 ==<br />
<br />
{{Gen3|}}{{Gen4|}}<br />
''Info needed ...''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Torque Settings ==<br />
<br />
<br />
Full details of the torque settings can be found in the [[Torque#Engine | reference data]]<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen3]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen4]]<br />
[[Category:Engine - gen4]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Steering_wheel_change&diff=9949
Steering wheel change
2022-01-08T05:39:06Z
<p>Bosanek: Typos</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
This article contains guides on how to:<br />
# Demount a Jimny 3 steering wheel;<br />
# Install a Jimny 3 steering wheel;<br />
# Install a steering wheel from a different Suzuki vehicle onto a Jimny 3;<br />
# Make the multimedia controls on a non-Jimny steering wheel work;<br />
<br />
<br />
There may be several reasons to do any of this:<br />
# To repair/refurbish a worn steering wheel;<br />
# To replace the air bag module or the horn button(s);<br />
# To replace the ordinary wheel with a half-leather premium factory wheel;<br />
# To replace a Jimny 3 wheel with a fancy sexy wheel from another vehicle;<br />
# To have working multimedia controls on a steering wheel;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of steering wheels and airbags ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* In research conducted by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile/26417-talkstar Talkstar], he noticed that all Suzuki vehicles use the same type of spline connector for the steering wheel and for the steering column.<br />
* Therefore, it should be physically possible to exchange any steering wheel between all or most Suzuki vehicle models.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, depending on year of manufacture, it may or may not be 100% possible to swap any existing airbags among the lineup as well.<br />
* Talkstar's research found the following regarding the airbag wiring connector in the steering wheel:<br />
** Suzuki cars manufactured until 2004 use a rudimentary larger connector, similar to the connector used in Mitsubishi vehicles.<br />
** Suzuki cars manufactured after 2004 use a smaller connector, similar to an Toyota connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is also possible that an air bag module from a different wheel type might not be compatible with the air bag control computer in the vehicle.<br />
** Connecting an incompatible air bag module and then turning the vehicle on might trigger a false alarm to the air bag computer, causing the air bag to explode!<br />
<br />
<br />
* While it is technically possible to cut off the airbag connector and then solder, splice and/or crimp the wires to a different loom, this may not be an advisable solution. <br />
** Any such improvisation is messing with the SRS system and subsequently altering the electrical resistance in the system.<br />
** If you are really unlucky, the airbag might not work in the moment when you need it the most, or it might work in the moment when you need it the least.<br />
<br />
<br />
There have been three models of steering wheels used on Jimnys 3:<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="330px" heights="220px" class=center><br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 1st gen (1998-2005) - A01.jpg|The 1st type used from 1998 to 2005<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 2nd gen (2005-2013) - A01.jpg|The 2nd type used from 2005 to 2014<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 3rd gen (2014-2018) - A01.jpg|The 3rd type used from 2014 to 2018<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Checking compatibility of air bag module ==<br />
<br />
<br />
If you will not be returning your original air bag module in the steering wheel after replacing the steering wheel (if a new air bag module will be installed), then '''don't forget''' to compare all the inscriptions on the back of your old air bag module (after you remove it from the steering wheel) with the replacement air bag module!<br />
<br />
<br />
You can be fully certain that the air bag modules are mutually compatible only if the replacement one is the same model and revision as the old one!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny steering wheel demounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
# Disconnect vehicle's main battery.<br />
#* Wait at least 10 minutes (preferably 30 minutes) after that before unscrewing anything on the steering wheel.<br />
#** The purpose of the delay is to allow time for any residual electrical charges in the vehicle to self-discharge.<br />
# Lock the steering wheel with the front wheels pointing straight ahead.<br />
# Mark the steering wheel's position in relation to vehicle's dash board / instrument panel.<br />
# Completely unscrew the two screws on the sides of the steering wheel.<br />
#* In some Jimnys these are torx T30 screws, while in others they are ordinary hex screws.<br />
# Pull the center air bag module gently one side a bit then the other side a bit, until it gets separated from the steering wheel.<br />
# Hold the separated air bag module carefully and turn it around so that its back side is visible.<br />
# There will be two wire sets going into the back of the air bag module.<br />
#* One is a single wire connecting near the edge of the air bag module.<br />
#* The other is a set of wires going into a yellow clip in the center of the air bag module.<br />
#* Use a small screwdriver or a similar tool to gently disconnect (prise off) the yellow clip from the air bag module. <br />
#* Use pliers or a similar tool to disconnect the other single wire from the air bag module.<br />
#* The air bag is now completely separated from the steering wheel.<br />
# Temporarily store the airbag (carefully!) in a safe location where there is no risk of anything coming into contact with it and no risk of it falling down.<br />
# Now a gentle ring/disc is clearly visible and accessible behind the nut on the steering column shaft.<br />
#* The ring/disc should '''not''' be touched/turned to either direction!<br />
#* Therefore, mark the position of that disc in relation to the surrounding steering column as soon as you can, so that you can return the disc into proper position if you happen to accidentally move it.<br />
#* Beware that if you rotate the disc accidentally more than one full turn, you will have to count the number of turns back in order to return it in exact original position.<br />
#* This ring/disc can snap if it is turned too many full turns.<br />
# Now loosen the hexagonal nut on the steering column shaft, which holds the steering wheel in place.<br />
#* If I remember correctly, it is either a 14 mm or a 17 mm hexagonal nut.<br />
#* Just loosen the nut a few full turns, but do not remove the nut from the shaft completely yet.<br />
# Pull the steering wheel towards you with a lot of force (and wiggle it if you must but just slightly) until it snaps loose.<br />
#* This is usually the most difficult step, as usually the wheel just won't separate from the steering column.<br />
#** There are additional guidelines further down below in the case that the wheel is stuck and won't come loose.<br />
#* The still-present undid nut acts as a safety barrier here, as it will prevent the snapped of wheel to slam you in the face.<br />
#** Without the nut, you would have to replace a few teeth or fix a broken nose as the part of this procedure too.<br />
# After the steering wheel snaps loose from the steering column shaft, loosen the nut completely and remove the steering wheel altogether.<br />
# Removal is done!<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class="center" caption="A 2nd edition Jimny 3 steering wheel before and after removal"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A01.jpg|Before removal.<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A02.jpg|After taking the wheel off and the clockspring, this is what is left on the column - the indicator mechanism.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Now you can optionally perform the preparation for the multimedia control buttons on the new steering wheel to work (read the corresponding chapter in this article).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Additional guidelines for stuck steering wheel ===<br />
<br />
<br />
What to do if the steering wheel is stuck on the steering column (won't separate when pulling it):<br />
* The "classic" remedy for a stuck wheel is to bang the steering column shaft with a hammer while simultaneously pulling the wheel.<br />
** However, Suzuki's service manual strongly warns against using any hammering force on the steering column, as it is a collapsible modern steering column design.<br />
* Suzuki has a special tool for elegant removal of a stuck steering wheel from the column.<br />
** The tool is nothing more than a thick steel plate with two threaded holes for bolts.<br />
** The intended method is - as you screw the plate down to the predefined holes in the steering column, the wheel will have to come off due to counter force.<br />
*** This is a similar principle as when removing a stuck Jimny's rear wheel drum.<br />
** This tool can be DIY made from a thick piece of steel and using a grinder and a drill, but it takes some time to do it.<br />
* A more elegant "chemical" solution is to spray the top of the steering column shaft (just below the nut) with some "WD-40-alike" lubricating chemical.<br />
** It is recommended to spray it in at least two iterations and allow at least 15 minutes between each iteration.<br />
** Then, after waiting at least 15 minutes after the last spraying, try pulling the steering wheel off the steering column again.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Preparations for multimedia controls ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This chapter is optional.<br />
It applies only if you wish to make use of the multimedia controls on a new steering wheel which you wish to install.<br />
<br />
Steering wheels from some relatively newer Suzuki cars have multimedia controls built in into them. These controls are not going to work with Jimny 3 standard clockspring.<br />
To make them work, there are two solutions: One risky and one safer.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimny 3 uses an older version of clockspring.<br />
** It is much flatter than Suzukis newer springs.<br />
* Jimny 3 clocksprings are fully integrated into the indicator assembly with four screws.<br />
* A newer model clockspring, which are stand-alone units, simply will not fit due to the different size and how they are set up to work.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solution A ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This is the "safe" solution.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Obtain a Liana or Vitara XL7 clockspring.<br />
** They are 100% the same as the Jimny 3 spring and fit straight out of the box.<br />
** Airbag connector is same as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you find a Liana clockspring, make sure it has the extra leads for audio controls.<br />
** Not all Lianas have audio controls.<br />
*** Talkstar's research shows that only the top spec Lianas under last two years of production came with audio controls.<br />
* All Vitaras XL7 have audio controls and leads for cruise control.<br />
** Therefore, there are 5 additional leads inside a Vitara XL7 clockspring apart from the airbag leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Remove the OEM Jimny clockspring from the steering column.<br />
* The clockspring is screwed onto the mechanism with 4 screws, one in every corner.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Compare both clocksprings (OEM Jimny vs Liana/XL7).<br />
* Notice that the tabs holding the clockspring on to the indicator canceller differ in height.<br />
** OEM Jimny has a lower profile than Liana/XL7.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A03.jpg|thumb|left|300px|]]<br />
* You have to cut or grind down the locarot tabs on the Liana/XL7 clockspring about 3 mm to 4 mm (preferably using a dremel-alike tool) for it to sit flush with the indicator canceller.<br />
** If you do not grind it down, the new steering wheel will not seat properly and might damage your Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A04.jpg|thumb|left|300px|]]<br />
* This is how it looks when the task is properly completed.<br />
* All is flush with the canceller ring.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
* Now the OEM Jimny clockspring can be swapped for a slightly modified Liana or XL7 one.<br />
* Done! Now you have prepared your Jimny 3 for working with steering wheel buttons on a new steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solution B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a risky solution - use it only if a donor vehicle for solution A is not available.<br />
<br />
<br />
* To make use of any buttons on the steering wheel, two new leads have to be added to carry the information from the wheel through the clockspring and out on the other side of the clockspring.<br />
<br />
# Start by disassembling the clockspring.<br />
# Make note how long the original airbag cables inside the clockspring are.<br />
# Use fine guage leads and measure two similar lengths of leads that are 400 mm longer than the airbag cables.<br />
# Drill two small holes (MAX 2 mm diameter) on the backside of the clockspring next to where the airbag cables come out.<br />
# Do the same thing on the front side (the face side), that sits directly behind the steering wheel.<br />
# Pull the leads through the holes on the back side.<br />
#* Leave about 200 mm of slack on the outside, behind the clockspring.<br />
# Securely attach the extra leads with cloth tape to the original airbag lead.<br />
#* Use small snippets of tape every 150 mm for the whole inside length.<br />
# Pull the leads out on the face, front, side.<br />
#* Leave as much slack as you can.<br />
# Coil everything back inside the clockspring.<br />
#* To center the spring:<br />
#** First turn all the way to the right untill you fell resistance.<br />
#** Then turn it about 2.75 turns back to the left and align it with the marks on the front of the clockspring.<br />
# Assemble the clockspring again.<br />
# Done! Now you have prepared your OEM Jimny 3 clockspring for working with steering wheel buttons on a new steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A05.jpg|Crimped connectors onto the wires<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A06.jpg|Properly crimped, connected, secured and insulated<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Notes on compatibility with multimedia head units ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Making a multimedia control button send a signal to a multimedia head unit is just one side of the solution.<br />
* The multimedia head unit also has to have a corresponding input in order to be able to accept and listen to those commands.<br />
* The OEM 2-din-alike Clarion Jimny 3 multimedia head unit does '''not''' have such support.<br />
<br />
<br />
* You need a multimedia head unit with a 3.5 mm remote input socket or a dedicated 2 pin remote input socket.<br />
** That means a head unit which is able to read & interpret resistive commands.<br />
** For example, every button on a Suzuki Swift steering wheel has a preset resistance.<br />
*** For example: "<font face="courier">VOL+</font>" button = <font face="courier">100 ohm</font>, "<font face="courier">VOL-</font>" button = <font face="courier">1.08 kohm</font>.<br />
* The multimedia head unit halso has to have support for Programmable steering wheel commands (a key mapper).<br />
<br />
<br />
* OEM multimedia head units from other Suzuki vehicles which have multimedia controls on the steering wheel obviously have full support for such operation.<br />
* Top of the line 2-din aftermarket multimedia head units with 7 inch screen usually have this programmable function.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
# Put the steering wheel on the steering column, carefully aligning the teeth on the steering column shaft so that the steering wheel is oriented (in relation to the instrument panel) as it originally was.<br />
#* The markers, which you were supposed to mark before steering wheel's removal, should help here.<br />
# Screw on the lock nut on the steering column.<br />
#* It is highly recommended to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the nut to the factory specified torque of '''33 Nm'''.<br />
#* This torque value was taken from original Suzuki's service manual for type 6 Jimny revision (built in 2006) which has the 2nd type steering wheel.<br />
# Carefully bring the airbag module back to the steering wheel.<br />
# Connect the single electrical wire and also the set of wires with the yellow clip back onto the rear side of the air bag module.<br />
# Put the airbag module into its position in the steering wheel.<br />
# Screw both screws in the side of the steering wheel (tightening torque is 9 Nm).<br />
# Connect the main vehicle battery.<br />
# Turn the vehicle on.<br />
# Drive off into the sunset.<br />
#* Drive preferably on a straight road to avoid using the steering wheel :)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Non-Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Preparation ===<br />
<br />
* If you look closely at the picture of a Jimny steering column after the wheel was removed (in the removal chapter), you can also see how the turn indicator canceller mechanism is working.<br />
** It hooks on to two bumps in the white ring.<br />
* There are two indentations at the back of the OEM Jimny wheel, on the mating surface to the indicator canceller.<br />
* Those indentations / holes have to be replicated on the replacement wheel if it does not have them.<br />
* Holes sit exactly center on the wheel and they are 3 mm deep.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Make the holes on the replacement steering wheel, preferably using a dremel-alike tool.<br />
* Depending on what kind of replacement wheel you have chosen, you need to delete the indicator cancelling bumps on the new wheel.<br />
* After performing the two modifications, the replacement wheel will be ready to be mounted.<br />
* The details of the modifications are presented in step-by-step a photo example below.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A07.jpg|thumb|left|300px|JDM Suzuki Swift RS steering wheel, without airbag]]<br />
* This is the wheel from a Swift RS from Japanese domestic market.<br />
* The Swift airbag was obtained in UK. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A08.jpg|thumb|left|300px|JDM Suzuki Swift RS steering wheel - view from the rear]]<br />
* This is how the Swift wheel looks from behind.<br />
* Two cut outs in the centerline of the wheel have to be added, one north and one south of the splined steering column connection.<br />
* This is for Jimny's indicator canceling system.<br />
* Indicator cancelling bumps on the Swift wheel also have to be grinded down.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A09.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Determining the center line]]<br />
* The centerline is on 24 mm from either side.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A10.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Measuring the made groove]]<br />
*A dremel-alike tool or a file has to be used to grind away 3.5 - 4 mm of material, so the indicator canceller connector bumps will fit properly inside the groove. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A11.jpg|thumb|left|300px|After both grooves have been made]]<br />
* Two identical grooves have been made.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="Parts marked red for grinding. Grind them smooth"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A12.jpg|<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A13.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="This is how both sides are supposed to look after grinding."><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A14.jpg|<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A15.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Installation ===<br />
<br />
# Center the indicator canceling device into your newly made holes on the replacement wheel and check the fitment.<br />
#* Adjust if needed.<br />
# Optional: Connect the audio controls from the replacement steering wheel to your leads you made earlier or to the Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
#* Talkstar's Swift connector didn't fit so he chopped off the connector and crimped on some new universal shielded connectors, then connected everything and wrapped the connection with cloth tape.<br />
<br />
<br />
The remaining installation steps are the same as in the entire chapter "Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure".<br />
<br />
Some of the remaining steps are presented in a photo example below, with a Swift RS steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="Steering wheel attached and lined up"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A16.jpg|Photograph from below<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A17.jpg|Photograph from above<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A18.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Finished work]]<br />
* Final outcome.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Steering_wheel_change&diff=9947
Steering wheel change
2022-01-07T11:17:11Z
<p>Bosanek: Added a chapter about multimedia head unit compatibility</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
This article contains guides on how to:<br />
# Demount a Jimny 3 steering wheel;<br />
# Install a Jimny 3 steering wheel;<br />
# Install a steering wheel from a different Suzuki vehicle onto a Jimny 3;<br />
# Make the multimedia controls on a non-Jimny steering wheel work;<br />
<br />
<br />
There may be several reasons to do any of this:<br />
# To repair/refurbish a worn steering wheel;<br />
# To replace the air bag module or the horn button(s);<br />
# To replace the ordinary wheel with a half-leather premium factory wheel;<br />
# To replace a Jimny 3 wheel with a fancy sexy wheel from another vehicle;<br />
# To have working multimedia controls on a steering wheel;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of steering wheels and airbags ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* In research conducted by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile/26417-talkstar Talkstar], he noticed that all Suzuki vehicles use the same type of spline connector for the steering wheel and for the steering column.<br />
* Therefore, it should be physically possible to exchange any steering wheel between all or most Suzuki vehicle models.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, depending on year of manufacture, it may or may not be 100% possible to swap any existing airbags among the lineup as well.<br />
* Talkstar's research found the following regarding the airbag wiring connector in the steering wheel:<br />
** Suzuki cars manufactured until 2004 use a rudimentary larger connector, similar to the connector used in Mitsubishi vehicles.<br />
** Suzuki cars manufactured after 2004 use a smaller connector, similar to an Toyota connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is also possible that an air bag module from a different wheel type might not be compatible with the air bag control computer in the vehicle.<br />
** Connecting an incompatible air bag module and then turning the vehicle on might trigger a false alarm to the air bag computer, causing the air bag to explode!<br />
<br />
<br />
* While it is technically possible to cut off the airbag connector and then solder, splice and/or crimp the wires to a different loom, this may not be an advisable solution. <br />
** Any such improvisation is messing with the SRS system and subsequently altering the electrical resistance in the system.<br />
** If you are really unlucky, the airbag might not work in the moment when you need it the most, or it might work in the moment when you need it the least.<br />
<br />
<br />
There have been three models of steering wheels used on Jimnys 3:<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="330px" heights="220px" class=center><br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 1st gen (1998-2005) - A01.jpg|The 1st type used from 1998 to 2005<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 2nd gen (2005-2013) - A01.jpg|The 2nd type used from 2005 to 2014<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 3rd gen (2014-2018) - A01.jpg|The 3rd type used from 2014 to 2018<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Checking compatibility of air bag module ==<br />
<br />
<br />
If you will not be returning your original air bag module in the steering wheel after replacing the steering wheel (if a new air bag module will be installed), then '''don't forget''' to compare all the inscriptions on the back of your old air bag module (after you remove it from the steering wheel) with the replacement air bag module!<br />
<br />
<br />
You can be fully certain that the air bag modules are mutually compatible only if the replacement one is the same model and revision as the old one!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny steering wheel demounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
# Disconnect vehicle's main battery.<br />
#* Wait at least 10 minutes (preferably 30 minutes) after that before unscrewing anything on the steering wheel.<br />
#** The purpose of the delay is to allow time for any residual electrical charges in the vehicle to self-discharge.<br />
# Lock the steering wheel with the front wheels pointing straight ahead.<br />
# Mark the steering wheel's position in relation to vehicle's dash board / instrument panel.<br />
# Completely unscrew the two screws on the sides of the steering wheel.<br />
#* In some Jimnys these are torx T30 screws, while in others they are ordinary hex screws.<br />
# Pull the center air bag module gently one side a bit then the other side a bit, until it gets separated from the steering wheel.<br />
# Hold the separated air bag module carefully and turn it around so that its back side is visible.<br />
# There will be two wire sets going into the back of the air bag module.<br />
#* One is a single wire connecting near the edge of the air bag module.<br />
#* The other is a set of wires going into a yellow clip in the center of the air bag module.<br />
#* Use a small screwdriver or a similar tool to gently disconnect (prise off) the yellow clip from the air bag module. <br />
#* Use pliers or a similar tool to disconnect the other single wire from the air bag module.<br />
#* The air bag is now completely separated from the steering wheel.<br />
# Temporarily store the airbag (carefully!) in a safe location where there is no risk of anything coming into contact with it and no risk of it falling down.<br />
# Now a gentle ring/disc is clearly visible and accessible behind the nut on the steering column shaft.<br />
#* The ring/disc should '''not''' be touched/turned to either direction!<br />
#* Therefore, mark the position of that disc in relation to the surrounding steering column as soon as you can, so that you can return the disc into proper position if you happen to accidentally move it.<br />
#* Beware that if you rotate the disc accidentally more than one full turn, you will have to count the number of turns back in order to return it in exact original position.<br />
#* This ring/disc can snap if it is turned too many full turns.<br />
# Now loosen the hexagonal nut on the steering column shaft, which holds the steering wheel in place.<br />
#* If I remember correctly, it is either a 14 mm or a 17 mm hexagonal nut.<br />
#* Just loosen the nut a few full turns, but do not remove the nut from the shaft completely yet.<br />
# Pull the steering wheel towards you with a lot of force (and wiggle it if you must but just slightly) until it snaps loose.<br />
#* This is usually the most difficult step, as usually the wheel just won't separate from the steering column.<br />
#** There are additional guidelines further down below in the case that the wheel is stuck and won't come loose.<br />
#* The still-present undid nut acts as a safety barrier here, as it will prevent the snapped of wheel to slam you in the face.<br />
#** Without the nut, you would have to replace a few teeth or fix a broken nose as the part of this procedure too.<br />
# After the steering wheel snaps loose from the steering column shaft, loosen the nut completely and remove the steering wheel altogether.<br />
# Removal is done!<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class="center" caption="A 2nd edition Jimny 3 steering wheel before and after removal"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A01.jpg|Before removal.<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A02.jpg|After taking the wheel off and the clockspring, this is what is left on the column - the indicator mechanism.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Now you can optionally perform the preparation for the multimedia control buttons on the new steering wheel to work (read the corresponding chapter in this article).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Additional guidelines for stuck steering wheel ===<br />
<br />
<br />
What to do if the steering wheel is stuck on the steering column (won't separate when pulling it):<br />
* The "classic" remedy for a stuck wheel is to bang the steering column shaft with a hammer while simultaneously pulling the wheel.<br />
** However, Suzuki's service manual strongly warns against using any hammering force on the steering column, as it is a collapsible modern steering column design.<br />
* Suzuki has a special tool for elegant removal of a stuck steering wheel from the column.<br />
** The tool is nothing more than a thick steel plate with two threaded holes for bolts.<br />
** The intended method is - as you screw the plate down to the predefined holes in the steering column, the wheel will have to come off due to counter force.<br />
*** This is a similar principle as when removing a stuck Jimny's rear wheel drum.<br />
** This tool can be DIY made from a thick piece of steel and using a grinder and a drill, but it takes some time to do it.<br />
* A more elegant "chemical" solution is to spray the top of the steering column shaft (just below the nut) with some "WD-40-alike" lubricating chemical.<br />
** It is recommended to spray it in at least two iterations and allow at least 15 minutes between each iteration.<br />
** Then, after waiting at least 15 minutes after the last spraying, try pulling the steering wheel off the steering column again.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Preparations for multimedia controls ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This chapter is optional.<br />
It applies only if you wish to make use of the multimedia controls on a new steering wheel which you wish to install.<br />
<br />
Steering wheels from some relatively newer Suzuki cars have multimedia controls built in into them. These controls are not going to work with Jimny 3 standard clockspring.<br />
To make them work, there are two solutions: One risky and one safer.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimny 3 uses an older version of clockspring.<br />
** It is much flatter than Suzukis newer springs.<br />
* Jimny 3 clocksprings are fully integrated into the indicator assembly with four screws.<br />
* A newer model clockspring, which are stand-alone units, simply will not fit due to the different size and how they are set up to work.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solution A ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This is the "safe" solution.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Obtain a Liana or Vitara XL7 clockspring.<br />
** They are 100% the same as the Jimny 3 spring and fit straight out of the box.<br />
** Airbag connector is same as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you find a Liana clockspring, make sure it has the extra leads for audio controls.<br />
** Not all Lianas have audio controls.<br />
*** Talkstar's research shows that only the top spec Lianas under last two years of production came with audio controls.<br />
* All Vitaras XL7 have audio controls and leads for cruise control.<br />
** Therefore, there are 5 additional leads inside a Vitara XL7 clockspring apart from the airbag leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Remove the OEM Jimny clockspring from the steering column.<br />
* The clockspring is screwed onto the mechanism with 4 screws, one in every corner.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Compare both clocksprings (OEM Jimny vs Liana/XL7).<br />
* Notice that the tabs holding the clockspring on to the indicator canceller differ in height.<br />
** OEM Jimny has a lower profile than Liana/XL7.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A03.jpg|thumb|left|300px|]]<br />
* You have to cut or grind down the locarot tabs on the Liana/XL7 clockspring about 3 mm to 4 mm (preferably using a dremel-alike tool) for it to sit flush with the indicator canceller.<br />
** If you do not grind it down, the new steering wheel will not seat properly and might damage your Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A04.jpg|thumb|left|300px|]]<br />
* This is how it looks when the task is properly completed.<br />
* All is flush with the canceller ring.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
* Now the OEM Jimny clockspring can be swapped for a slightly modified Liana or XL7 one.<br />
* Done! Now you have prepared your Jimny 3 for working with steering wheel buttons on a new steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solution B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a risky solution - use it only if a donor vehicle for solution A is not available.<br />
<br />
<br />
* To make use of any buttons on the steering wheel, two new leads have to be added to carry the information from the wheel through the clockspring and out on the other side of the clockspring.<br />
<br />
# Start by disassembling the clockspring.<br />
# Make note how long the original airbag cables inside the clockspring are.<br />
# Use fine guage leads and measure two similar lengths of leads that are 400 mm longer than the airbag cables.<br />
# Drill two small holes (MAX 2 mm diameter) on the backside of the clockspring next to where the airbag cables come out.<br />
# Do the same thing on the front side (the face side), that sits directly behind the steering wheel.<br />
# Pull the leads through the holes on the back side.<br />
#* Leave about 200 mm of slack on the outside, behind the clockspring.<br />
# Securely attach the extra leads with cloth tape to the original airbag lead.<br />
#* Use small snippets of tape every 150 mm for the whole inside length.<br />
# Pull the leads out on the face, front, side.<br />
#* Leave as much slack as you can.<br />
# Coil everything back inside the clockspring.<br />
#* To center the spring:<br />
#** First turn all the way to the right untill you fell resistance.<br />
#** Then turn it about 2.75 turns back to the left and align it with the marks on the front of the clockspring.<br />
# Assemble the clockspring again.<br />
# Done! Now you have prepared your OEM Jimny 3 clockspring for working with steering wheel buttons on a new steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A05.jpg|Crimped connectors onto the wires<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A06.jpg|Properly crimped, connected, secured and insulated<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Notes on compatibility with multimedia head units ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* Making the multimedia control button send a signal to the multimedia head unit is just one side of the solution.<br />
* The multimedia head unit also has to have a corresponding input in order to be able to accept and listen to those commands.<br />
* The OEM 2-din-alike Clarion Jimny 3 multimedia head unit does '''not''' have such support.<br />
<br />
<br />
* You need a multimedia head unit with a 3.5 mm remote input socket or a dedicated 2 pin remote input socket.<br />
** That means a head unit which is able to read & interpret resistive commands.<br />
** For example, every button on a Suzuki Swift steering wheel has a preset resistance.<br />
*** For example: "<font face="courier">VOL+</font>" button = <font face="courier">100 ohm</font>, "<font face="courier">VOL-</font>" button = <font face="courier">1.08 kohm</font>.<br />
* The multimedia head unit halso has to have support for Programmable steering wheel commands (a key mapper).<br />
<br />
<br />
* OEM multimedia head units from other Suzuki vehicles which have multimedia controls on the steering wheel obviously have full support for such operation.<br />
* Top of the line 2-din aftermarket multimedia head units with 7 inch screen usually have this programmable function.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
# Put the steering wheel on the steering column, carefully aligning the teeth on the steering column shaft so that the steering wheel is oriented (in relation to the instrument panel) as it originally was.<br />
#* The markers, which you were supposed to mark before steering wheel's removal, should help here.<br />
# Screw on the lock nut on the steering column.<br />
#* It is highly recommended to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the nut to the factory specified torque of '''33 Nm'''.<br />
#* This torque value was taken from original Suzuki's service manual for type 6 Jimny revision (built in 2006) which has the 2nd type steering wheel.<br />
# Carefully bring the airbag module back to the steering wheel.<br />
# Connect the single electrical wire and also the set of wires with the yellow clip back onto the rear side of the air bag module.<br />
# Put the airbag module into its position in the steering wheel.<br />
# Screw both screws in the side of the steering wheel (tightening torque is 9 Nm).<br />
# Connect the main vehicle battery.<br />
# Turn the vehicle on.<br />
# Drive off into the sunset.<br />
#* Drive preferably on a straight road to avoid using the steering wheel :)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Non-Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Preparation ===<br />
<br />
* If you look closely at the picture of a Jimny steering column after the wheel was removed (in the removal chapter), you can also see how the turn indicator canceller mechanism is working.<br />
** It hooks on to two bumps in the white ring.<br />
* There are two indentations at the back of the OEM Jimny wheel, on the mating surface to the indicator canceller.<br />
* Those indentations / holes have to be replicated on the replacement wheel if it does not have them.<br />
* Holes sit exactly center on the wheel and they are 3 mm deep.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Make the holes on the replacement steering wheel, preferably using a dremel-alike tool.<br />
* Depending on what kind of replacement wheel you have chosen, you need to delete the indicator cancelling bumps on the new wheel.<br />
* After performing the two modifications, the replacement wheel will be ready to be mounted.<br />
* The details of the modifications are presented in step-by-step a photo example below.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A07.jpg|thumb|left|300px|JDM Suzuki Swift RS steering wheel, without airbag]]<br />
* This is the wheel from a Swift RS from Japanese domestic market.<br />
* The Swift airbag was obtained in UK. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A08.jpg|thumb|left|300px|JDM Suzuki Swift RS steering wheel - view from the rear]]<br />
* This is how the Swift wheel looks from behind.<br />
* Two cut outs in the centerline of the wheel have to be added, one north and one south of the splined steering column connection.<br />
* This is for Jimny's indicator canceling system.<br />
* Indicator cancelling bumps on the Swift wheel also have to be grinded down.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A09.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Determining the center line]]<br />
* The centerline is on 24 mm from either side.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A10.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Measuring the made groove]]<br />
*A dremel-alike tool or a file has to be used to grind away 3.5 - 4 mm of material, so the indicator canceller connector bumps will fit properly inside the groove. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A11.jpg|thumb|left|300px|After both grooves have been made]]<br />
* Two identical grooves have been made.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="Parts marked red for grinding. Grind them smooth"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A12.jpg|<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A13.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="This is how both sides are supposed to look after grinding."><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A14.jpg|<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A15.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Installation ===<br />
<br />
# Center the indicator canceling device into your newly made holes on the replacement wheel and check the fitment.<br />
#* Adjust if needed.<br />
# Optional: Connect the audio controls from the replacement steering wheel to your leads you made earlier or to the Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
#* Talkstar's Swift connector didn't fit so he chopped off the connector and crimped on some new universal shielded connectors, then connected everything and wrapped the connection with cloth tape.<br />
<br />
<br />
The remaining installation steps are the same as in the entire chapter "Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure".<br />
<br />
Some of the remaining steps are presented in a photo example below, with a Swift RS steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="Steering wheel attached and lined up"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A16.jpg|Photograph from below<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A17.jpg|Photograph from above<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A18.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Finished work]]<br />
* Final outcome.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=User_talk:Talkstar&diff=9946
User talk:Talkstar
2022-01-07T10:54:26Z
<p>Bosanek: Removed the page from all Jimny categories, as this is a personal user talk page. The entire steering wheel guide has been incporporated into the older existing article about steering wheel change.</p>
<hr />
<div>== How to exchange your steering wheel on a 3rd Gen Jimny to another one ==<br />
<br />
;Background information<br /><br /><br />
:In my research I've noticed that all Suzuki vehicles uses the same type of spline connector for the steering wheel and steering column.<br />
:With that info on hand it should be physically possible to exchange any steering wheel between all Suzuki models.<br /><br />
::*Depending on year of manufacture it may or may not be 100% possible to swap any existing airbags among the lineup as well.<br />
::*In my research I've observed that Suzuki cars manufactured until 2004 uses an rudimentary larger Airbag connector, similar to the connector used in Mitsubishi vehicles.<br />
:::After 2004 the connector type changes to an smaller connector, similar to an Toyota connector.<br />
While it is totally possible to splice an newer connector on to an older loom, I do not feel this is the right way of doing it. You are messing with the SRS system and subsequently altering the resistance in the system.<br />
If you are really unlucky, the whole system might not work the day you need it.<br />
<br />
<br />
;Prepare for Radio Controls (Optional)<br /><br /><br />
:Some newer steering wheels have radio controls built in into the wheel. This controls is not going to work with Jimnii standard Clockspring. To make them work, there is two solutions. One risky and one safer.<br />
::*Jimny uses an older version of clockspring. It is much flatter than Suzukis newer springs. Jimnii clocksprings are fully integrated into the indicator assembly with four screws. A newer model clockspring, which are stand-alone units, will not simply fit due to the different size and how they are set up to work.<br /><br /><br />
:::*;RISKY SOLUTION. PLEASE USE THIS IF NO OTHER OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE:<br />
:::To make use of any buttons on the steering wheel we must add two new leads to carry the information from the wheel through the clockspring and out on the other side of the clockspring.<br />
:::#Start by disassembling the clockspring.<br />
:::#Make note how long the original airbag cables inside the clockspring are.<br />
:::#Use fine guage leads, Kynar f.ex., and meassure two similar lengts of leads that is 400mm longer than the airbag cables.<br />
:::#Drill two small holes (MAX 2mm) on the backside of the clockspring next to where the airbag cables comes out.<br />
:::#Do the same thing on the front side, the face side, that sits directly behind the steering wheel.<br />
:::#Pull the leads through the holes on the back side. Leave about 200mm of slack on the outside, behind, the clockspring.<br />
:::#Securely attach the extra leads with cloth tape to the original airbag lead. Use small snippets of tape every 150mm for the whole inside lenght.<br />
:::#Pull the leads out on the face, front, side. Leave as much slack you can.<br />
:::#Coil everything back inside the clockspring. To center the spring: First turn all the way to the right untill you fell resistance. Then turn it about 2.75 turns back to the left and allign with the marks on the front of the clockspring<br />
:::#Assemble the clockspring again.<br />
:::#;Done! Now you have prepared your OEM Jimny clockspring for accepting steering wheel buttons.<br /><br /><br />
<br />
:::*;CORRECT SOLUTION. USE THIS FOR YOUR SAFETY!!<br />
:::# Get yourself a Liana or Vitara XL7 clockspring. They are 100% same as the Jimny spring and fit straight out of the box. Airbag connector is same as well.<br />
:::#: 1B If you find a Liana Clockspring, make sure it has the extra leads for audio controls. Not all Lianas has Audio controls.My research shows only the top spec under last two years of production came with audio controls.<br />
:::#: 1C All Vitara XL7 has audio controls AND leads for cruise control. So there is 5 aditional leads inside an XL7 spring apart from the airbag leads.<br />
:::#Inspect both clocksprings. OEM Jimny vs Liana/XL7. See that the tabs holding the clockspring on to the indicator canceller differ in height? OEM Jimnii has a lower profile than Liana/XL7. You have to cut or grind down, using a Dremel, your tabs on the Liana/XL7 clockspring about 3 to 4mm for it to sit flush with the indicator canceller. If you do not grind it down, your new steeringwheel will not seat properly and might damage your Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
:::#Swap the OEM Jimny for a slightly modded Liana or XL7 one.<br />
:::#;Done! Now you have prepared your Jimny for accepting steering wheel buttons.<br /><br /><br />
<br />
;Swapping the wheel<br /><br /><br />
<br />
#Make sure your wheels are straight and your steering wheel is straight before you start spannering away.<br />
#Start with taking off the Negative side on your battery and waiting 30 min before doing anything.<br />
#Undo the screws holding the Airbag in place on both sides of the wheel. It is an Torx T30 bit.<br />
#Unhook the airbag connector and horn lead. Take off the Airbag and store it somewhere safe.<br />
#Undo the steering wheel nut. It is an 17mm nut.<br />
#Unwind the steering wheel nut a couple of turns and let it be still attached to the column.<br />
#Wiggle the wheel a bit and pull straight outwards. It should come off pretty neatly. The still attached Steering wheel nut does not allow you to rip the wheel completly off and damage someting or hurt yourself. Neat, right?<br />
#Unwind the steeringwheel nut and take off the steering wheel. Store it somewhere safe.<br />
#-OPTIONAL- Unscrew and unhook your OEM clockspring if you want audio controls. Follow the guide on how to mod your OEM clockspring or just install an compatibe clockspring according to the guide.<br />
#Prepare your replacement steering wheel.<br />
#:10B.Inspect your standard Jimny wheel. Do you see it has two round holes at the back, on the mating surface to the indicator canceller? These two holes you need to replicate on your replacement wheel.<br />
#:10C.Holes sit exactly center on the wheel and they are 3mm deep.<br />
#:10D.Using a dremel make the holes.<br />
#:10E.Depending on what kind of replacement wheel you have chosen, you need to delete the indicator cancelling bumps on the new wheel. In my case, the replacement wheel being from a Swift, I need to grind down the areas marked in red with a grinder.<br />
#:10F.Your wheel is modded and ready to go back on! Congrats!!<br />
#Install your new wheel. Center the indicator canceling device into your newly made holes and check the fitment. Adjust if needed.<br />
#-OPTIONAL- Connect up your audio controls to your leads you made earlier or the Liana/XL7 clockspring. My Swift connector didn't fit so i chopped off the connector and crimped on some new universal shielded connectors. Attaced to each other and wrapped the connection with cloth tape.<br />
#Tighten the steeringwheel nut.<br />
#Attach Airbag connector and horn lead to your new airbag unit.<br />
#Tighten the two T30 Airbag securing screws.<br />
#Reattach your batterys negative side and test function. Keep your fingers crossed that airbag light goes out after some blinks.<br />
#;YOU ARE DONE!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!!<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
OEM 3spoke.jpg|1.This is what I started with; A leather OEM Jimny wheel. First I took the Airbag module off and undid the steeringwheel nut.<br />
Indicator canceller mechanism.jpg|2.After taking the wheel off and the clockspring. This is whats left on the column. The indicator mechanism. Clockspring was screwed onto the mechanism with 4 screws. One in every corner. If you look closely you can also see how the canceller mechanism is working. It hooks on to two bumps in the white ring. There is two indentations at the back of the OEM Jimny wheel we need to replicate on the Swift wheel.<br />
Swift 3spoke front.jpg|3.This is the wheel from a JDM Swift RS I purchased online. I already have an Swift Airbag unit so I didnt have to purchase another one.<br />
Swift 3spoke rear.jpg|4.This is how the Swift wheel looks from behind. We need to modify two things. A) We need to add two cut outs in the centerline of the wheel. One North and one south of the splined steeringcolumn connection. This is for Jimny's Indicator canceling system B) We need to grind down the Indicator cancelling bumps on the Swift wheel.<br />
Swift 3spoke center.jpg|We will find the centerline on 24mm from either side.<br />
4mm deep.jpg|5.We have to use an Dremel or a file to grind away 3.5 - 4mm of material so the indicator canceller conector bumps will fit properly inside the groove.<br />
Dremled.jpg|6.All done.<br />
Grind off.jpg|7.We need to grind off all parts marked in red in the picture. Grind it smooth.<br />
Grind off2.jpg|8.We need to grind off all parts marked in red in the picture. Grind it smooth.<br />
Grinded down.jpg|9.This is how it will look afterwards<br />
Grinded down2.jpg|10.This is the other side after.<br />
Dremel down 3-4mm.jpg|11.If you are changing your current clockspring for an XL7 or Liana one to obtain Radio controls. You need to shave off a bit of material on the locatortabs on your XL7/Liana clockspring. 3-4mm of plastic material is needed to shave off to make it sit flush inside the indicator canceller mechanism.<br />
Dremeled and flush fit.jpg|12.This is how it looks when you hav completed the task. All flush with the canceller ring.<br />
Indicator canceller mechanism.jpg|13.Time to line up your new Swift wheel with the indicator canceling mechanism. Check so you have your bumps located north and south of the column shaft.<br />
Mating surface under.jpg|14.Wheel on and lined up. This photo is from underneath. A-OK!<br />
Snug Fit.jpg|15.Looking great on the upside as well.<br />
Soldered.jpg|16.I crimped some small connectors on to the leads coming from the steering wheel controls. I took any unused leads on the XL/Liana clockspring and crimped on some corresponding female connectors.<br />
Connected.jpg|17.XL7/Liana Clockspring mounted, Swift steeringwheel on, Steeringwheel nut tightened and Remote leads connected.<br />
Done.jpg|18.Airbag cover on and you are Done!<br />
</gallery></div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Steering_wheel_change&diff=9945
Steering wheel change
2022-01-07T10:46:19Z
<p>Bosanek: Completed the incorporation of Talkstar's article into this article.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{intro-notes}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
{{Gen3|}}<br />
<br />
This article contains guides on how to:<br />
# Demount a Jimny 3 steering wheel;<br />
# Install a Jimny 3 steering wheel;<br />
# Install a steering wheel from a different Suzuki vehicle onto a Jimny 3;<br />
# Make the radio controls on a non-Jimny steering wheel work;<br />
<br />
<br />
There may be several reasons to do any of this:<br />
# To repair/refurbish a worn steering wheel;<br />
# To replace the air bag module or the horn button(s);<br />
# To replace the ordinary wheel with a half-leather premium factory wheel;<br />
# To replace a Jimny 3 wheel with a fancy sexy wheel from another vehicle;<br />
# To have working radio controls on a steering wheel;<br />
<br />
<br />
== Types of steering wheels and airbags ==<br />
<br />
<br />
* In research conducted by forum user [https://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/profile/26417-talkstar Talkstar], he noticed that all Suzuki vehicles use the same type of spline connector for the steering wheel and for the steering column.<br />
* Therefore, it should be physically possible to exchange any steering wheel between all or most Suzuki vehicle models.<br />
<br />
<br />
* However, depending on year of manufacture, it may or may not be 100% possible to swap any existing airbags among the lineup as well.<br />
* Talkstar's research found the following regarding the airbag wiring connector in the steering wheel:<br />
** Suzuki cars manufactured until 2004 use a rudimentary larger connector, similar to the connector used in Mitsubishi vehicles.<br />
** Suzuki cars manufactured after 2004 use a smaller connector, similar to an Toyota connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
* It is also possible that an air bag module from a different wheel type might not be compatible with the air bag control computer in the vehicle.<br />
** Connecting an incompatible air bag module and then turning the vehicle on might trigger a false alarm to the air bag computer, causing the air bag to explode!<br />
<br />
<br />
* While it is technically possible to cut off the airbag connector and then solder, splice and/or crimp the wires to a different loom, this may not be an advisable solution. <br />
** Any such improvisation is messing with the SRS system and subsequently altering the electrical resistance in the system.<br />
** If you are really unlucky, the airbag might not work in the moment when you need it the most, or it might work in the moment when you need it the least.<br />
<br />
<br />
There have been three models of steering wheels used on Jimnys 3:<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="330px" heights="220px" class=center><br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 1st gen (1998-2005) - A01.jpg|The 1st type used from 1998 to 2005<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 2nd gen (2005-2013) - A01.jpg|The 2nd type used from 2005 to 2014<br />
File:Suzuki Jimny - steering wheel, 3rd gen (2014-2018) - A01.jpg|The 3rd type used from 2014 to 2018<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Checking compatibility of air bag module ==<br />
<br />
<br />
If you will not be returning your original air bag module in the steering wheel after replacing the steering wheel (if a new air bag module will be installed), then '''don't forget''' to compare all the inscriptions on the back of your old air bag module (after you remove it from the steering wheel) with the replacement air bag module!<br />
<br />
<br />
You can be fully certain that the air bag modules are mutually compatible only if the replacement one is the same model and revision as the old one!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny steering wheel demounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
# Disconnect vehicle's main battery.<br />
#* Wait at least 10 minutes (preferably 30 minutes) after that before unscrewing anything on the steering wheel.<br />
#** The purpose of the delay is to allow time for any residual electrical charges in the vehicle to self-discharge.<br />
# Lock the steering wheel with the front wheels pointing straight ahead.<br />
# Mark the steering wheel's position in relation to vehicle's dash board / instrument panel.<br />
# Completely unscrew the two screws on the sides of the steering wheel.<br />
#* In some Jimnys these are torx T30 screws, while in others they are ordinary hex screws.<br />
# Pull the center air bag module gently one side a bit then the other side a bit, until it gets separated from the steering wheel.<br />
# Hold the separated air bag module carefully and turn it around so that its back side is visible.<br />
# There will be two wire sets going into the back of the air bag module.<br />
#* One is a single wire connecting near the edge of the air bag module.<br />
#* The other is a set of wires going into a yellow clip in the center of the air bag module.<br />
#* Use a small screwdriver or a similar tool to gently disconnect (prise off) the yellow clip from the air bag module. <br />
#* Use pliers or a similar tool to disconnect the other single wire from the air bag module.<br />
#* The air bag is now completely separated from the steering wheel.<br />
# Temporarily store the airbag (carefully!) in a safe location where there is no risk of anything coming into contact with it and no risk of it falling down.<br />
# Now a gentle ring/disc is clearly visible and accessible behind the nut on the steering column shaft.<br />
#* The ring/disc should '''not''' be touched/turned to either direction!<br />
#* Therefore, mark the position of that disc in relation to the surrounding steering column as soon as you can, so that you can return the disc into proper position if you happen to accidentally move it.<br />
#* Beware that if you rotate the disc accidentally more than one full turn, you will have to count the number of turns back in order to return it in exact original position.<br />
#* This ring/disc can snap if it is turned too many full turns.<br />
# Now loosen the hexagonal nut on the steering column shaft, which holds the steering wheel in place.<br />
#* If I remember correctly, it is either a 14 mm or a 17 mm hexagonal nut.<br />
#* Just loosen the nut a few full turns, but do not remove the nut from the shaft completely yet.<br />
# Pull the steering wheel towards you with a lot of force (and wiggle it if you must but just slightly) until it snaps loose.<br />
#* This is usually the most difficult step, as usually the wheel just won't separate from the steering column.<br />
#** There are additional guidelines further down below in the case that the wheel is stuck and won't come loose.<br />
#* The still-present undid nut acts as a safety barrier here, as it will prevent the snapped of wheel to slam you in the face.<br />
#** Without the nut, you would have to replace a few teeth or fix a broken nose as the part of this procedure too.<br />
# After the steering wheel snaps loose from the steering column shaft, loosen the nut completely and remove the steering wheel altogether.<br />
# Removal is done!<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class="center" caption="A 2nd edition Jimny 3 steering wheel before and after removal"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A01.jpg|Before removal.<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A02.jpg|After taking the wheel off and the clockspring, this is what is left on the column - the indicator mechanism.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Now you can optionally perform the preparation for the radio control buttons on the new steering wheel to work (read the corresponding chapter in this article).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Additional guidelines for stuck steering wheel ===<br />
<br />
<br />
What to do if the steering wheel is stuck on the steering column (won't separate when pulling it):<br />
* The "classic" remedy for a stuck wheel is to bang the steering column shaft with a hammer while simultaneously pulling the wheel.<br />
** However, Suzuki's service manual strongly warns against using any hammering force on the steering column, as it is a collapsible modern steering column design.<br />
* Suzuki has a special tool for elegant removal of a stuck steering wheel from the column.<br />
** The tool is nothing more than a thick steel plate with two threaded holes for bolts.<br />
** The intended method is - as you screw the plate down to the predefined holes in the steering column, the wheel will have to come off due to counter force.<br />
*** This is a similar principle as when removing a stuck Jimny's rear wheel drum.<br />
** This tool can be DIY made from a thick piece of steel and using a grinder and a drill, but it takes some time to do it.<br />
* A more elegant "chemical" solution is to spray the top of the steering column shaft (just below the nut) with some "WD-40-alike" lubricating chemical.<br />
** It is recommended to spray it in at least two iterations and allow at least 15 minutes between each iteration.<br />
** Then, after waiting at least 15 minutes after the last spraying, try pulling the steering wheel off the steering column again.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Preparations for radio controls ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Introduction ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This chapter is optional.<br />
It applies only if you wish to make use of the radio controls on a new steering wheel which you wish to install.<br />
<br />
Steering wheels from some relatively newer Suzuki cars have radio controls built in into them. These controls are not going to work with Jimny 3 standard clockspring.<br />
To make them work, there are two solutions: One risky and one safer.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Jimny 3 uses an older version of clockspring.<br />
** It is much flatter than Suzukis newer springs.<br />
* Jimny 3 clocksprings are fully integrated into the indicator assembly with four screws.<br />
* A newer model clockspring, which are stand-alone units, simply will not fit due to the different size and how they are set up to work.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solution A ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This is the "safe" solution.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Obtain a Liana or Vitara XL7 clockspring.<br />
** They are 100% the same as the Jimny 3 spring and fit straight out of the box.<br />
** Airbag connector is same as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you find a Liana clockspring, make sure it has the extra leads for audio controls.<br />
** Not all Lianas have audio controls.<br />
*** Talkstar's research shows that only the top spec Lianas under last two years of production came with audio controls.<br />
* All Vitaras XL7 have audio controls and leads for cruise control.<br />
** Therefore, there are 5 additional leads inside a Vitara XL7 clockspring apart from the airbag leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Remove the OEM Jimny clockspring from the steering column.<br />
* The clockspring is screwed onto the mechanism with 4 screws, one in every corner.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Compare both clocksprings (OEM Jimny vs Liana/XL7).<br />
* Notice that the tabs holding the clockspring on to the indicator canceller differ in height.<br />
** OEM Jimny has a lower profile than Liana/XL7.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A03.jpg|thumb|left|300px|]]<br />
* You have to cut or grind down the locarot tabs on the Liana/XL7 clockspring about 3 mm to 4 mm (preferably using a dremel-alike tool) for it to sit flush with the indicator canceller.<br />
** If you do not grind it down, the new steering wheel will not seat properly and might damage your Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A04.jpg|thumb|left|300px|]]<br />
* This is how it looks when the task is properly completed.<br />
* All is flush with the canceller ring.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
* Now the OEM Jimny clockspring can be swapped for a slightly modified Liana or XL7 one.<br />
* Done! Now you have prepared your Jimny 3 for working with steering wheel buttons on a new steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Solution B ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a risky solution - use it only if a donor vehicle for solution A is not available.<br />
<br />
<br />
* To make use of any buttons on the steering wheel, two new leads have to be added to carry the information from the wheel through the clockspring and out on the other side of the clockspring.<br />
<br />
# Start by disassembling the clockspring.<br />
# Make note how long the original airbag cables inside the clockspring are.<br />
# Use fine guage leads and measure two similar lengths of leads that are 400 mm longer than the airbag cables.<br />
# Drill two small holes (MAX 2 mm diameter) on the backside of the clockspring next to where the airbag cables come out.<br />
# Do the same thing on the front side (the face side), that sits directly behind the steering wheel.<br />
# Pull the leads through the holes on the back side.<br />
#* Leave about 200 mm of slack on the outside, behind the clockspring.<br />
# Securely attach the extra leads with cloth tape to the original airbag lead.<br />
#* Use small snippets of tape every 150 mm for the whole inside length.<br />
# Pull the leads out on the face, front, side.<br />
#* Leave as much slack as you can.<br />
# Coil everything back inside the clockspring.<br />
#* To center the spring:<br />
#** First turn all the way to the right untill you fell resistance.<br />
#** Then turn it about 2.75 turns back to the left and align it with the marks on the front of the clockspring.<br />
# Assemble the clockspring again.<br />
# Done! Now you have prepared your OEM Jimny 3 clockspring for working with steering wheel buttons on a new steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A05.jpg|Crimped connectors onto the wires<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A06.jpg|Properly crimped, connected, secured and insulated<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
== Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
# Put the steering wheel on the steering column, carefully aligning the teeth on the steering column shaft so that the steering wheel is oriented (in relation to the instrument panel) as it originally was.<br />
#* The markers, which you were supposed to mark before steering wheel's removal, should help here.<br />
# Screw on the lock nut on the steering column.<br />
#* It is highly recommended to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the nut to the factory specified torque of '''33 Nm'''.<br />
#* This torque value was taken from original Suzuki's service manual for type 6 Jimny revision (built in 2006) which has the 2nd type steering wheel.<br />
# Carefully bring the airbag module back to the steering wheel.<br />
# Connect the single electrical wire and also the set of wires with the yellow clip back onto the rear side of the air bag module.<br />
# Put the airbag module into its position in the steering wheel.<br />
# Screw both screws in the side of the steering wheel (tightening torque is 9 Nm).<br />
# Connect the main vehicle battery.<br />
# Turn the vehicle on.<br />
# Drive off into the sunset.<br />
#* Drive preferably on a straight road to avoid using the steering wheel :)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Non-Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Preparation ===<br />
<br />
* If you look closely at the picture of a Jimny steering column after the wheel was removed (in the removal chapter), you can also see how the turn indicator canceller mechanism is working.<br />
** It hooks on to two bumps in the white ring.<br />
* There are two indentations at the back of the OEM Jimny wheel, on the mating surface to the indicator canceller.<br />
* Those indentations / holes have to be replicated on the replacement wheel if it does not have them.<br />
* Holes sit exactly center on the wheel and they are 3 mm deep.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Make the holes on the replacement steering wheel, preferably using a dremel-alike tool.<br />
* Depending on what kind of replacement wheel you have chosen, you need to delete the indicator cancelling bumps on the new wheel.<br />
* After performing the two modifications, the replacement wheel will be ready to be mounted.<br />
* The details of the modifications are presented in step-by-step a photo example below.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A07.jpg|thumb|left|300px|JDM Suzuki Swift RS steering wheel, without airbag]]<br />
* This is the wheel from a Swift RS from Japanese domestic market.<br />
* The Swift airbag was obtained in UK. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A08.jpg|thumb|left|300px|JDM Suzuki Swift RS steering wheel - view from the rear]]<br />
* This is how the Swift wheel looks from behind.<br />
* Two cut outs in the centerline of the wheel have to be added, one north and one south of the splined steering column connection.<br />
* This is for Jimny's indicator canceling system.<br />
* Indicator cancelling bumps on the Swift wheel also have to be grinded down.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A09.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Determining the center line]]<br />
* The centerline is on 24 mm from either side.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A10.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Measuring the made groove]]<br />
*A dremel-alike tool or a file has to be used to grind away 3.5 - 4 mm of material, so the indicator canceller connector bumps will fit properly inside the groove. <br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A11.jpg|thumb|left|300px|After both grooves have been made]]<br />
* Two identical grooves have been made.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="Parts marked red for grinding. Grind them smooth"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A12.jpg|<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A13.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="This is how both sides are supposed to look after grinding."><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A14.jpg|<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A15.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=== Installation ===<br />
<br />
# Center the indicator canceling device into your newly made holes on the replacement wheel and check the fitment.<br />
#* Adjust if needed.<br />
# Optional: Connect the audio controls from the replacement steering wheel to your leads you made earlier or to the Liana/XL7 clockspring.<br />
#* Talkstar's Swift connector didn't fit so he chopped off the connector and crimped on some new universal shielded connectors, then connected everything and wrapped the connection with cloth tape.<br />
<br />
<br />
The remaining installation steps are the same as in the entire chapter "Jimny steering wheel mounting procedure".<br />
<br />
Some of the remaining steps are presented in a photo example below, with a Swift RS steering wheel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery widths="300px" heights="400px" class=center caption="Steering wheel attached and lined up"><br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A16.jpg|Photograph from below<br />
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A17.jpg|Photograph from above<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A18.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Finished work]]<br />
* Final outcome.<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
<br />
{{Edited}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Steering - gen3]]<br />
[[Category:Howto - gen3]]</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Jimny_3_steering_wheel_change_guide_-_A16.jpg&diff=9944
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A16.jpg
2022-01-07T10:45:36Z
<p>Bosanek: Bosanek uploaded a new version of File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A16.jpg</p>
<hr />
<div>All about that mating</div>
Bosanek
https://www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Jimny_3_steering_wheel_change_guide_-_A18.jpg&diff=9943
File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A18.jpg
2022-01-07T10:31:50Z
<p>Bosanek: Bosanek moved page File:Done.jpg to File:Jimny 3 steering wheel change guide - A18.jpg without leaving a redirect: Standardized the title</p>
<hr />
<div>Swift RS wheel</div>
Bosanek