BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Kaiser lockers? Anybody heard of them before?
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Ive seen Jimnybits have added kaiser lockers, which sound like a sweet (but double the £) alternative to a Lockright, and better value than an ARB. Ive had a bit of a search and cant find anything much about them apart from praise.
www.jimnybits.com/jimny/drivetrain/jimny...ocker-by-kaiser.html
Riccy
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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Cheaper by £56 and you need no compressor or wiring etc....It's like a slightly better lock-right...but you can't blow your tyres up without a compressor..Riccy wrote: Hi all,
Ive seen Jimnybits have added kaiser lockers, which sound like a sweet (but double the £) alternative to a Lockright, and better value than an ARB. Ive had a bit of a search and cant find anything much about them apart from praise.
www.jimnybits.com/jimny/drivetrain/jimny...ocker-by-kaiser.html
Riccy
Could be fun having one in the front of a Jimny!
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- TomDK
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Also. ARB lockers are used world wide in all sorts of vehicles. From overlanding and greenlaning to rockcrawling and desertracing. And yes, anything can be broken. But ARB's are often stronger built than standard diffs. Just look at the Jimny front diff compared to an ARB locker.
One more thing. That price.. Makes it even less attractive.
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An open diff always splits the torque equally between the wheels whilst allowing them to travel at different speeds. When cornering on the road both wheels are pushing the car with the same force, and no wheel can ever receive more than 50% of the maximum torque from the engine. This is predictable, efficient and put's very little stress on things. It is unlikely that you will exceed the available traction on a dry road, and if you do it will spin up the inside wheel and the car will slow but essentially remain on a steady course around the corner. The downside of this arrangement is that it can only deliver as much torque as the tyre with least grip can handle. If one wheel is in the air, then there is no torque to distribute between the wheels and you go nowhere. So good for road, not so good for off-road.
With a Kaiser or Lockright diff (we should probably call them 'over-run' diffs) they send all the torque to the slowest moving wheel, and lock when the speed of both wheels is equal. The faster moving wheel is allowed to freewheel, or over-run. This means that when cornering they send 100% of the torque to the inside wheel- the wheel with least traction. That is double the maximum load you can deliver with an open diff, and therefore doubles the likelihood of the inside tyre losing traction. IF the inside wheel loses traction and starts to spin it will match the speed of the outside wheel, at which point the diff will be 'locked'. Then you are cornering with a locked diff, scrubbing at least one of the tyres and your predictable handling has turned into sudden oversteer. The diff will 'unlock' when the grip at the slowest moving wheel exceeds the amount of torque the engine is delivering. This is not the behaviour you want in a normal road car! Great for going sideways, but so is welding the diff and that costs pennies.
An ARB style selectable locking diff has the benefits of being normal open diff when you don't need extra traction, and a fully locked diff when you want it to be. So it remains the best of both worlds.
Keithy, I like the idea of a front locker but I suspect the extra torque would soon take it's toll on the CVs.
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TomDK wrote: Arb airlockers are still cheaper in continental Europe. So why bother.
Where are they cheaper please? i cant find a retailer in europe thats much different to jimnybits pricing on ARB gear, unless i look at the chinese copy stuff, which isnt an option.
The kaiser was simply an observation, Im not that keen on the way the lockrite works, was wondering if this made any sense to anyone who knows about insides of a dfflock. The ARB is univerally agreed to be the daddy, but does mean a compressor is also needed (agreed, a useful piece of kit). The kaiser looks a simple thing to fit compared to the ARB, but im still struggling to find out if anyone has actually used one anywhere.
With the rear lockers - does everyone just run the standard half shafts or swap to something stronger? i presume its more or less essential to improve the front factory shafts/CVs if going for lockers?
Thanks all
Riccy
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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Of all the users there were no complaints from having one fitted in the rear.
I actually like the design and can actually see some merit for fitment into the rear of mine.....it would free up an ARB for fitment into my T box for full time 4wd....although I may just make a manual one for that.
I have ARB front and rear.....they've been used on some pretty gnarly stuff.....all on standard cv/shafts.......I can see how people can/could break these components.....but for my present use I doubt I'll break anything
Why not try an ARB clone from China via Alibaba?
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- TomDK
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Riccy wrote:
TomDK wrote: Arb airlockers are still cheaper in continental Europe. So why bother.
Where are they cheaper please? i cant find a retailer in europe thats much different to jimnybits pricing on ARB gear, unless i look at the chinese copy stuff, which isnt an option.
The kaiser was simply an observation, Im not that keen on the way the lockrite works, was wondering if this made any sense to anyone who knows about insides of a dfflock. The ARB is univerally agreed to be the daddy, but does mean a compressor is also needed (agreed, a useful piece of kit). The kaiser looks a simple thing to fit compared to the ARB, but im still struggling to find out if anyone has actually used one anywhere.
With the rear lockers - does everyone just run the standard half shafts or swap to something stronger? i presume its more or less essential to improve the front factory shafts/CVs if going for lockers?
Thanks all
Riccy
Lots of places, just google the correct ARB number But here's one www.hm4x4.com/HM4X4Shop/index.php?cPath=179_182_203
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- TomDK
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Keithy wrote: When you posted about these I looked at the users who have them fitted....One user reported a lot of broken cv joints on the front.
Of all the users there were no complaints from having one fitted in the rear.
I actually like the design and can actually see some merit for fitment into the rear of mine.....it would free up an ARB for fitment into my T box for full time 4wd....although I may just make a manual one for that.
I have ARB front and rear.....they've been used on some pretty gnarly stuff.....all on standard cv/shafts.......I can see how people can/could break these components.....but for my present use I doubt I'll break anything
Why not try an ARB clone from China via Alibaba?
So you wanna but an ARB into the Jimny/samurai Transferbox? Hope this is meant as a joke
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So you wanna but an ARB into the Jimny/samurai Transferbox? Hope this is meant as a joke [/quote] Sadly I'm serious!
I need full time 4wd especially if the road is wet.....I live in the UK and it's wet quite a bit.
The ARB takes up less space than the sliding collar type I'd make although the extra 3" it'd take up can be offset against the 3" axle reposition....we'll see.
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