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Cleaning/painting the underside

  • petejones69
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21 Aug 2020 21:42 - 21 Aug 2020 21:43 #227138 by petejones69
Cleaning/painting the underside was created by petejones69
The underside and wheel arches need making good. I bought a couple of tins of Hammerite Underseal with added Waxoyl, plus six spray cans of the same. So do I sand down as much rust as I can before using this stuff? I don't want to make things worse (although that's entirely possible!).

Cheers
Pete
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Last edit: 21 Aug 2020 21:43 by petejones69.

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21 Aug 2020 21:53 #227139 by Scimike
Hi Pete,
I would knock off any loose rust and paint, treat with a rust converter and then apply your selected topcoat.
Typical converter - plenty to choose from;
www.frost.co.uk/granville-heavy-duty-rus...bd98760c8c9428ec6daf

Doing anything is better than doing nothing.

Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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22 Aug 2020 07:52 #227149 by kirkynut

Scimike wrote: Hi Pete,
I would knock off any loose rust and paint, treat with a rust converter and then apply your selected topcoat.
Typical converter - plenty to choose from;
www.frost.co.uk/granville-heavy-duty-rus...bd98760c8c9428ec6daf

Doing anything is better than doing nothing.


I didn't realise that you can buy rust converter in those quantities! I'd only ever seen the poxy little pots in Halfords!

I'd wire brush it, use the rust converter, paint with Hammerite metal paint or some good chassis paint and them cover in a good coat of Lanolin.

I've not used Lanolin yet but everything I see on it is good. There was a link to Roothy from Australian 4wd Action bigging it up on here a week or so ago in a thread if you have a scan through.

Kirkynut

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28 Aug 2020 10:00 - 28 Aug 2020 10:02 #227448 by Bosanek
I strongly advise against the use of any type of "rust converter". Most of them are basically tannic acid.

To make the elaboration simple, two main reasons against tannic acid:
1. It rarely penetrates the rust more than its shallow surface, thus leaving its inner layers untouched.
2. The converted top layer of rust prevents the corrosion inhibitors, which are usually a part of the subsequent coating like a wax or a paint primer, from performing their job, because they do not have contact with the untreated rust below the converted top layer.

The best rust removal method is mechanical sand blasting. If not possible, then a wire brush, followed with abrasion with sand paper (to roughen the metal which the wire brushed has polished) and then phosphoric acid to finish off the remaining small rust flecks.
Last edit: 28 Aug 2020 10:02 by Bosanek.
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28 Aug 2020 10:22 #227456 by Bosanek
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