BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Re:I managed to crack the ABS ring! :)
- Roger Fairclough
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I am thinking of getting a Trailmaster 50 mm lift kit and any comments you can supply on yours would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Roger
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Roger Fairclough wrote: Hi Hun.
I am thinking of getting a Trailmaster 50 mm lift kit and any comments you can supply on yours would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Rogwer
Hi Roger, I've sent my comments to you in a private message, please check it! Regards, Gabor
TrailMaster 2" lift kit
Full floating rear axle conversion, JB underbody guards & recovery points
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM manual hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
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If I were to keep this shaft/setup then I would strip down and weld up the scars instead of filling with adhesive. Then I would get it re-shaped in a lathe with a precision metal fabrication firm. Yesterday I finally decided to go down the route of fitting a full floating axle setup. It will cost much more than I thought so I need to be careful with my spendings... Luckily I have a second car so I'm not in a rush to sort this out.Lambert wrote: Would it be possible to fill that cut with a 2 part epoxy then you are at least mobile?
TrailMaster 2" lift kit
Full floating rear axle conversion, JB underbody guards & recovery points
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM manual hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
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- Livinti
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To put it in a nutshell: disappointment continues....
We have changed all parts and assembled both sides "as it is written in the big book", quality parts were used and now ran around 5-6 hundred kms and oil started leaking now from the right side
Now I am speechless, cannot imagine where the problem might be. And it appeared on the opposite side compared to earlier. And now we dis the repair, so cannot blaim any technican that something was not done properly.
Yes, there were grinding marks on the shaft surface and there are new ones that I did cut myself, but they are not going completely through and just for that I have placed sealant on top of the abs ring around the shaft.
Now, we need to find out something else....
But no real idea.
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Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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- Roger Fairclough
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Roger
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But I don't know how to check if an axle housing or axle shaft is bent.
The repair manual says nothing about these things (or I just could not find it)
I've seen a video before, where the guy measured the distance between the brake disks around their perimeters. In teory you should get equal distances which means the disks are parallel. But that's not gonna work for those who still have drum brakes. And I don't know how much difference could be acceptable if any?
I guess a dial gauge could be used somehow but maybe this investigation does not require that precision. I don't know...
What I do know is that a front bearing is twice as thick than a rear one for some reason therefore full float axles the way to go in my opinion.
TrailMaster 2" lift kit
Full floating rear axle conversion, JB underbody guards & recovery points
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM manual hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
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Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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- Roger Fairclough
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- Points: 7492.00
The first step to check for axle tube distortion is to check for visible signs, ie cracked paintwork or obvious ripples in the steel. Does the diff. to casing joint leak oil? If so this could indicate warping in the case. The best method is to remove the axle, remove the paint and then a more diligent check for obvious damage. If you mount uprights on each end of the case you can take measurements at two points and compare. Obviously the longer the uprights the greater the accuracy. To check the shafts you need to mount them in a homemade jig and spin them. It might sound crude but bits of available wood and a wood screw to adjust might be all you need.
Roger
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- Livinti
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We have checked now, there is no play in the newly installed bearing (of course), so it did not fail during this short use. We have checked now the factory breather, removed the cap from it, it was a bit seized, was not moving. The breather pipe shows inside open. Replaced the cap on it, now it is surely not blocking the pipe so pressure should not build up. Will run the jimny longer during the weekend and see if the leaking continues.
There were no signs, or suspicion that the shaft, or the complete axle was bent, or damaged. And also, it never received serios abuse. Due to excessive play in the diff itself, it was removed and had it overhauled. During removal and after installation there were no signs or suspicion on gamage of the axle housing either.
And the problem this time went from the earlier left side, to the right side now.
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