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Fuel tank removal procedure

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01 Jul 2019 15:01 #210484 by Bosanek
I could not find a similar existing topic.

Does anyone have specific warnings, notes and suggestions on how to properly and easily remove the fuel tank from a petrol Jimny 3?

Is there anything specific to take care of before, during or after the removal?

Also, anything special to do during reinstallation?

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01 Jul 2019 15:31 - 01 Jul 2019 15:32 #210487 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Fuel tank removal procedure
Never taken one out of a Jimny but in general remember that even empty of liquid a petrol tank contains extremely volatile vapour and they will explode for fun without any serious provocation. One of the old boys who mentored me was known to disconnect the lines with the tank in situe and fill it with water to the very top and then lower it away with an assistant. Better safe than dead was his motto!

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Last edit: 01 Jul 2019 15:32 by Lambert. Reason: Water don't explode.

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01 Jul 2019 17:49 #210490 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic Fuel tank removal procedure
Ive had the tank out of Ulysses before cutting the back off. It was pretty easy (except it was a full tank).

You cannot siphon as there is a trap thing at the hose connection into the tank, so the only way to empty it is to run it dry with the engine or remove the top plate where the pump and filter arrangement is. This can only be reached when its out unfortunately.

to remove:

- first disconnect the battery and short both leads to the body to earth everything. Have a foam or CO fire extinguisher to hand and no smoking/sparks/fire, etc.

- remove the rear prop as it gets in the way.

- undo the clips on the two pipes connected to the fuel filler cap and free off the pipes. Access through the rear wheel arch. There is some small plastic trim to remove. DO NOT try to undo the screws either side of the filler cap as they WILL snap and cause hassle.

- pull away the two hoses and stuff with rags.

- undo the bolts holding the tank to the chassis, supporting it somehow. Its not heavy when empty, but if full is 45+kg. I cant remember how many bolts but its about 4 or 5 that hold it in.

- lower the tank enough to reach the small bolts on the top. Blow over with an airline to clear loose crap and remove the small bolts. The fuel pump/filter arrangement will remove all as one and is about 30cm (the depth of the tank). Pipes do not need to be disconnected as there is enough flex, but the wiring connector may need to be unplugged.

- tank is now out. I would advise protecting the filter setup with some clean plastic clingfilm or bags, likewise for the tank to prevent dirt ingress.

- refitting is the reverse, except making even more sure everything is super clean.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 4.3 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

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01 Jul 2019 19:03 #210492 by Bosanek
I am aware that petrol fumes are quite volatile. However, I do not plan to use electric tools during this job and no grinding or drilling.

The suggestion with disconnecting the battery first is a good one. Perhaps also ground the chassis to proper earth (to earth in a nearby 220 V AC el. power socket).

I have already unbolted the bolts holding the fuel filler pipe to the body. No problems there, except rust around that body hole ...

Riccy, thank you very much for a fine and compact guide. I will make a small wiki article from that.

What do you think if the fuel tank can be temporarily lowered by about 15 cm without removing the fuel pump from it and without disconnecting any pipes and wires from the tank or the pump?

My primary reason for lowering or removing the fuel tank is to perform some proper anti rust underbody coating. I got fed up with seeing rotten rear floor sections on my previous Jimnys. Now I have an almost rust free one and I intend to act preventively.

Last question - If I do remove the fuel pump, would it make sense to replace the petrol fuel filter while I am at it? The vehicle has traveled about 60 000 miles, which is almost half of filter's service life.
Where can I get a high quality replacement filter?
Could the existing filter be cleaned?
Has anyone ever had an issue with a clogged petrol fuel filter in a Jimny?

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02 Jul 2019 17:57 #210515 by Riccy
Grounding to a power socket would not be advised because it would be pretty easy for someone following the guide to make a mistake and connect to a live conductor, thus making it a whole lot more dangerous!

I would suggest that a jump lead connecting the car to any surrounding exposed metalwork would be sufficient. As an electrician, I would call that 'equipotential bonding'. Its purpose is to make everything exposed and conductive connected together, thus meaning the potential difference is 0 volts. You could check this by using a basic A/C multimeter and testing for voltage between the car and anything close. Simpler just to link with the jump leads as suggested above.

Yes you should be able to just lower the tank without removing the pump/filter arrangement for access. I would think upto 20cm fairly easily.

Not sure about the filters, I sort of assumed it was a 'for life' filter and just kept it clean and put back in. It didnt look worn or clogged and the car has done 85000 miles or so. If your filter looks discolored it would definatley be worth putting a new one in as thats the only way to get access.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 4.3 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

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05 Jul 2019 06:59 #210651 by kirkynut
Crickey, this all sounds too complicated for what it is.

Just run the tank as low as you dare to make it lighter. Remove the rear prop and then the filler neck bolts.

Support the tank on a jack with a thick sheet of wood to spread the pressure of the jack. Undo the tank bolts and lower it on the jack a little bit. Undo the electrical plug and fuel lines, noting which went where and lower the tank fully.

Grease the tank bolts with copper grease before re-fitting and soak with WD40 for a day or so before you remove the tank to help prevent them from sheering.

There's no power to the pump or sender unit when the ignition is off, so why are we disconnecting the battery?

If the filler neck bolts sheer it's no biggie really. Just put your left hand up into the wheel arch to push it into place and stick a rag into the filler hole and drill new holes next to the old through the body and the plate around the filler and use automotive self tappers to hold the filler neck in place next to the old bolts.

Just don't drill too fast. The metal is so thin you drill through it so quickly that no heat is generated and you've eleminated fumes with the rag, plus you're in open air.

Job done.

It could be the ideal opportunity to fit an aftermarket tank guard if you are an off roader.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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08 Jul 2019 08:58 #210763 by Bosanek
Replied by Bosanek on topic Fuel tank removal procedure
Here is the new wiki guide:
www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...val_and_installation


Kirkynut, I agree that it is not that much of a project, but it should neither be taken so lightly. For example, not taking care to return the propeller shaft to its original mounting position can lead to its vibrations.

I have added some of your remarks into the wiki guide as well.
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08 Jul 2019 19:38 #210770 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic Fuel tank removal procedure
Nice work Bosanek :-)

Kirkynut - my thing with the grounding relates to idiot proofing/liability issues with numpties trying to follow the guide :laugh: Im an electrician so deal with explosive atmospheres now and then, which is very different. Get it wrong and boom!

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 4.3 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

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22 Jul 2020 01:52 - 22 Jul 2020 01:54 #225445 by Mr CC
Replied by Mr CC on topic Fuel tank removal procedure
just about to do this job as I'm restoring my Jimny after 9 years in the driveway. I would suggest make sure all the 6 bolts that hold the tank to the chassis are free before doing anything else and take them out halfway as its easier to take them out by hand later, keep taking them right out one at a time cleaning and wd40 then screwing back in. I have one bolt freed, the others are seized, and now rounded. Even mole grips after 2 nights of WD40 didnt move them. I'm going to have to drill out and re-tap one of the bolts on the opposite sides before drilling the heads off the other 4 completely.

no hoses are disconnected so safe enough to use a battery drill at the moment. any suggestions are welcome.
will also have a competent friend present and an extinguisher,
Last edit: 22 Jul 2020 01:54 by Mr CC.

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05 Aug 2020 22:42 #226123 by Mr CC
Replied by Mr CC on topic Fuel tank removal procedure
absolute pain of a job but got it done. time to clean off then hammerite the floor underneath, and then stone chip.
going to clean the filter once he pumps out the tank.
more seized bolts, got three moving, after 2 nights wd40 and tapping with a hammer.
just perseverence for the other 3. should take another couple of days.

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07 Aug 2020 08:32 #226196 by kirkynut

Mr CC wrote: absolute pain of a job but got it done. time to clean off then hammerite the floor underneath, and then stone chip.
going to clean the filter once he pumps out the tank.
more seized bolts, got three moving, after 2 nights wd40 and tapping with a hammer.
just perseverence for the other 3. should take another couple of days.


Such fun eh!

Why do we do this stuff?

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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07 Aug 2020 10:14 #226207 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Fuel tank removal procedure

Bosanek wrote: Here is the new wiki guide:
www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...val_and_installation


Kirkynut, I agree that it is not that much of a project, but it should neither be taken so lightly. For example, not taking care to return the propeller shaft to its original mounting position can lead to its vibrations.

I have added some of your remarks into the wiki guide as well.


Just two comments

I was always planning to do this with my car as well just did not have the balls to actually do it :) My Idea once the tank is out to cut a little service window for accessing the top of the tank from inside the car instead of taking the tank out again if needed later. I think of a simple riveted metal plate as a lid. (Rubber or silicon applied around for sealing).

How to identify the right position of shaft if no mark has been taken before removal? Or like in a situation when someone fits new/aftermarket shafts?

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