Jimny following camber of the road

Thanks for all the replies on this guys
It’s really appreciated

@lambert I’m near bedale in North Yorkshire.

@ facade cheers for that I’ll give it a try

If one side has been fitted with shims and not the other
Will I have to take the whole thing apart to remove the shims or can it be done by just removing the king pins one at a time?

@ lambert I’d really appreciate that
Where abouts are you?

Which section of exhaust are you replacing?

Not too far from me then

I replaced my back box last week it was a bit of a jiggle to get on with the tow bar
Next time I’ll do the rubber nearest to the tailpipe first

I am getting a little lost on this thread. There have been some really great ideas to help sort the problem. I don't think you have said how bad it is only that it is different now the work has been done. I took my Jim out today to test the camber follow. Mine has done 10000 miles so all bushes and bearings should be OK. Guess what basic physics it followed the camber BUT it only took one little finger on the steering wheel to correct it. So what I am saying is that under normal conditions I automatically correct and don't notice. Is yours one finger or one thumb or a hand full.

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paradox1001 wrote: @ facade cheers for that I’ll give it a try

If one side has been fitted with shims and not the other
Will I have to take the whole thing apart to remove the shims or can it be done by just removing the king pins one at a time?

The shims fit over the top kingpin (usually) and are fitted from the outside after the hub is assembled, by removing the kingpin and slipping the shim over the pin part.





An old mechanics dodge was to put an annealed copper washer in there, the copper spreads out under the load when fitting and then work hardens to give a rather unscientific preload. You might find a thick hard copper washer in there.

The shop sell a kit of different shims to adjust that preload spot-on.

Before you dismantle the car, it might not be the hubs, but I can't think of anything else if the rest of the steering and suspension is in good order.

@ jimkyx
I’d say about three fingers to a hand depending on the road
I know any car will follow the camber of the road
I just think mines following it quicker/harder than it should.

A big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread especially lambert with his offer of driving over to give a second opinion.

I’ve sorted it today hopefully
It was a seized slider on the calliper causing the lhs brake to drag.

I’ve fitted new sliders,boots and bolts along with new anti rattle pad clips to the lhs calliper.
Weather permitting I’ll do the other side tomorrow then see if I can get the damper bolts undone so I can fit the new ones.

Well done!

My sliders gave me an impression of warped discs - replaced the discs for nothing as they were almost new but noticed LH pads werent wearing at the same rate.
The sliders just seemed to be coated in old dry anti-seize grease. Once replaced, the shudder under braking has gone

I think it happens when people use copper grease on the sliders instead of red rubber grease.
Copper grease rots the rubber seals and then you suffer water/dirt ingress
Which washes the grease away and they corrode and stick.