You can now add the vehicles you own to your profile as little icons that appear in your profile and alongside your posts.
This is a bit of an experiment. Take a look under the "REWARDS" menu across the top of the screen for the vehicles "ADD/MODIFY" option.
Let me know how you get on.
ABS system fault with code C1063
After doing a "homemade" diagnostic with ELM327 compatible Bluetooth OBD2 transmitter and "SZ Viewer" Suzuki-specific vehicle diagnostics Android software, I read a whole bunch of DTC error codes from the ABS control computer (essentially, errors from all four wheel sensors and from all solenoid circuits).
It sounded strange that so many things went wrong at once. Such a "storm of errors" typically happens when some electrical glitch screws the system globally.
I erased all the error codes, except one which keeps on repeating - "C1063" .
The SZ Viewer says that DTC code C1063 means "ABS solenoid valve circuit, solenoid valve power supply driver circuit".
My first suspicion was a bad vehicle battery, as that can cause "fake" bad sensor readings. So I borrowed another good battery. However, that did not help.
I then looked up the error code C1063 in Suzuki's service manual 99501-81A10-01E (the matching one for my vehicle) and the DTC error code C1063 means "ABS fail safe circuit".
The description of that error in the manual says "The ABS control module monitors the voltage at monitor terminal of solenoid circuit constantly with the ignition switch turned ON. When monitor signal of solenoid valve relay is different from command signal, this DTC will be set."
Regarding remedies, the manual says to first check if the vehicle battery is OK (voltage at least 11 V), and it is OK. Then it says to check the main fuse for ABS solenoid (where is the fuse!?). As the last resort, is says to check the connector to the ABS hydraulic control unit. If the connector is fine, the final remedy is to replace the ABS hydraulic control unit.
Now, my two desperate questions are:
1. Does anyone know anything to aid in the diagnosis of this issue?
2. Where to buy this hydraulic ABS control unit and has anyone ever heard of it failing?
There could not have been a more inappropriate time for this issue to occur!
But I wrote all that in the original post in the case that it happens that all those electrical parts are fine, because in that case the original Suzuki service manual says to "just" replace the entire ABS hydraulic unit (I presume it's a pump) without any further attempts to repair it.
Since that pump is quite expensive (Ebay scrap parts search lists them costing from 100 pounds and more), I am asking if anyone else has had issues with this pump or some similar issue, and how they resolved it. Also, If someone knows of some 3rd cause which could actually be "posing" as a pump failure.
Even borrowing a known good ABS pump and installing it temporarily just for testing purposes is probably an endeavor by itself, as I suppose that it requires draining of the brake fluid and priming the system again etc.
- Posts: 1046
- Thank you received: 167
- Points: 96.00
In a RHD petrol jimny the fuses are above the drivers right foot and beside the battery. As this is a LHD diesel i suspect they may be totally different im afraid
PM me if you want
Gold Jimny the best colour (sold)
Big red Jimny now. 32" tyres, arbs, cage 5:1 transfer etc.
Also grey pick up nearly finished.
Turbo m13a, arbs, floating rear shafts, disc conversion rear, vented front conversion. 245 70 16. Winch, 3" lift, 4:16 trans hd shafts and CVS
The pump itself is fine, and works fine when the electrician temporarily forces the electrical connections between the few corroded connectors which have almost rusted away.
The pump will first have to be demounted as the electrician can not clean and repair the corroded connectors in place, he has to do it on a work bench.
After that, the pump will have to be reinstalled and probably a complete brake fluid change performed.
Should all the current brake fluid be spilled and completely new brake fluid poured, or just top off the current fluid after reinstalling the pump?
Now I am looking for a mechanic who would demount and reinstall the pump, but all are hesitant to do it as all are afraid of possible issues when purging the air out of the brake system after refilling it with a new brake fluid "on an obscure Japanese vehicle with dodgy ABS".
The thing is that in my country, French and especially German vehicles are ubiquitous and most mechanics are trained and accustomed only to deal with those, and most of them frown upon anything else.
P.S.: Note that the computerized diagnosis was actually correct - the error C1063 did point me (among other checks) to check two specific electrical connectors inside ABS pump's electrical connection socket, and it turned out precisely that those two connectors were affected by rust.
I performed the diagnostics with the use of an ordinary "el cheapo" Bluetooth ELM327-compatible OBDII transponder and "SZ Viewer" Android program which was written especially for Suzuki vehicles.
A note to other readers about the electrical part of the ABS pump:
It is a bit tricky to properly solder the connector pins and other electrical elements on pump's electrical board, so be careful which electrician you choose to do that job (if you happen to have the same corrosion issue).
The mechanic employed a similar bleeding procedure as the one which you described, except that (I think) he opened all three bleed nipples at the wheels simultaneously and let the brake fluid bleed in parallel on three wheels. There was no bleed nipple at the rear right wheel - the brake piping just passes through the brake cylinder in that wheel (pass-through point).
The mechanic did not allow the brake fluid reservoir to empty completely during the flush - he periodically topped it up during flushing. The draining was stopped and all bleed nipples closed when clear new brake fluid started to bleed from all three wheels. After that no air purging was necessary.
Now my ABS pump is working normally and the brake pedal is OK, no air in the system.