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ABS system fault with code C1063

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13 May 2018 20:42 #192667 by Bosanek
I got an ABS fault light on the dash board of my diesel Jimny just before publishing an advert to sell it. I then tested the brakes on a wet downhill road and ABS was indeed inoperative - when I stomped the brakes, I skidded down the road like a bob sled.

After doing a "homemade" diagnostic with ELM327 compatible Bluetooth OBD2 transmitter and "SZ Viewer" Suzuki-specific vehicle diagnostics Android software, I read a whole bunch of DTC error codes from the ABS control computer (essentially, errors from all four wheel sensors and from all solenoid circuits).
It sounded strange that so many things went wrong at once. Such a "storm of errors" typically happens when some electrical glitch screws the system globally.
I erased all the error codes, except one which keeps on repeating - "C1063" .

The SZ Viewer says that DTC code C1063 means "ABS solenoid valve circuit, solenoid valve power supply driver circuit".

My first suspicion was a bad vehicle battery, as that can cause "fake" bad sensor readings. So I borrowed another good battery. However, that did not help.

I then looked up the error code C1063 in Suzuki's service manual 99501-81A10-01E (the matching one for my vehicle) and the DTC error code C1063 means "ABS fail safe circuit".
The description of that error in the manual says "The ABS control module monitors the voltage at monitor terminal of solenoid circuit constantly with the ignition switch turned ON. When monitor signal of solenoid valve relay is different from command signal, this DTC will be set."

Regarding remedies, the manual says to first check if the vehicle battery is OK (voltage at least 11 V), and it is OK. Then it says to check the main fuse for ABS solenoid (where is the fuse!?). As the last resort, is says to check the connector to the ABS hydraulic control unit. If the connector is fine, the final remedy is to replace the ABS hydraulic control unit.

Now, my two desperate questions are:

1. Does anyone know anything to aid in the diagnosis of this issue?
2. Where to buy this hydraulic ABS control unit and has anyone ever heard of it failing?

There could not have been a more inappropriate time for this issue to occur!

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15 May 2018 09:52 #192703 by mickt
I would have thought that from your description you have already pinpointed the fault. Know you need to find the fuse it seems. The connector inspection should be a simple task of removing from unit and looking for bent pins, signs of overheating and/or corrosion I would have thought. I take it the handbook for the car does not mention the fuses location?

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15 May 2018 13:38 #192712 by Bosanek
I am about to go to an electrician tomorrow to have the electrical parts (like relays, fuses, connectors, etc.) checked. I still have not figured out their precise location yet.

But I wrote all that in the original post in the case that it happens that all those electrical parts are fine, because in that case the original Suzuki service manual says to "just" replace the entire ABS hydraulic unit (I presume it's a pump) without any further attempts to repair it.

Since that pump is quite expensive (Ebay scrap parts search lists them costing from 100 pounds and more), I am asking if anyone else has had issues with this pump or some similar issue, and how they resolved it. Also, If someone knows of some 3rd cause which could actually be "posing" as a pump failure.

Even borrowing a known good ABS pump and installing it temporarily just for testing purposes is probably an endeavor by itself, as I suppose that it requires draining of the brake fluid and priming the system again etc.

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15 May 2018 17:33 #192722 by Riccy
The fault you describe is more electrical by the sound of it.

In a RHD petrol jimny the fuses are above the drivers right foot and beside the battery. As this is a LHD diesel i suspect they may be totally different im afraid

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16 May 2018 08:45 #192745 by j999pre
I have 2 second had abs pumps however I'd need the numbers off yours to check for compatibility as there are different ones.

PM me if you want

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18 May 2018 12:01 - 18 May 2018 12:07 #192788 by Bosanek
I have performed step-by-step diagnosis with the aid of a professional automotive electrician and we determined severe corrosion issues in ABS pump's electrical board or connector module. The cause was probably a water ingress at some point in time.

The pump itself is fine, and works fine when the electrician temporarily forces the electrical connections between the few corroded connectors which have almost rusted away.

The pump will first have to be demounted as the electrician can not clean and repair the corroded connectors in place, he has to do it on a work bench.
After that, the pump will have to be reinstalled and probably a complete brake fluid change performed.

Should all the current brake fluid be spilled and completely new brake fluid poured, or just top off the current fluid after reinstalling the pump?

Now I am looking for a mechanic who would demount and reinstall the pump, but all are hesitant to do it as all are afraid of possible issues when purging the air out of the brake system after refilling it with a new brake fluid "on an obscure Japanese vehicle with dodgy ABS".

The thing is that in my country, French and especially German vehicles are ubiquitous and most mechanics are trained and accustomed only to deal with those, and most of them frown upon anything else.

P.S.: Note that the computerized diagnosis was actually correct - the error C1063 did point me (among other checks) to check two specific electrical connectors inside ABS pump's electrical connection socket, and it turned out precisely that those two connectors were affected by rust.

I performed the diagnostics with the use of an ordinary "el cheapo" Bluetooth ELM327-compatible OBDII transponder and "SZ Viewer" Android program which was written especially for Suzuki vehicles.
Last edit: 18 May 2018 12:07 by Bosanek.

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18 May 2018 19:24 #192795 by mickt
Good to know you have got to the bottom of the defect. I would recommend a complete fluid change. The removing of the pump unit should be just a spannering job and should not be too difficult. The bleeding can be done piecemeal as in start at the furthest wheel from the reservoir and open the cylinders bleed nipple at that wheel and get somebody to pump the pedal. Don't let the reservoir run dry though by adding the new fluid. Keep doing that whilst going wheel to wheel furthest to nearest and see how it goes. It might help if you can blank the disconnected pipes at the hydraulic unit as you disconnect them to try and keep the pipes full of oil rather than air.

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24 May 2018 07:59 #192897 by Bosanek
Thank you very much for the suggestions on how to bleed the brake fluid.

A note to other readers about the electrical part of the ABS pump:
It is a bit tricky to properly solder the connector pins and other electrical elements on pump's electrical board, so be careful which electrician you choose to do that job (if you happen to have the same corrosion issue).

The mechanic employed a similar bleeding procedure as the one which you described, except that (I think) he opened all three bleed nipples at the wheels simultaneously and let the brake fluid bleed in parallel on three wheels. There was no bleed nipple at the rear right wheel - the brake piping just passes through the brake cylinder in that wheel (pass-through point).
The mechanic did not allow the brake fluid reservoir to empty completely during the flush - he periodically topped it up during flushing. The draining was stopped and all bleed nipples closed when clear new brake fluid started to bleed from all three wheels. After that no air purging was necessary.

Now my ABS pump is working normally and the brake pedal is OK, no air in the system.

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