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Strange buzzing/hissing engine noise

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20 Apr 2018 06:00 - 20 Apr 2018 06:07 #191912 by Bosanek
I have a constant strange hissing / buzzing noise in the petrol M13A VVT engine. It appears to come from the front of the engine, and I might say from the area where the power steering pump is. The "pitch" of the sound remains the same whether the engine is idling or working hard, just the intensity increases slightly on higher throttle.

However, when I turn the wheels on the parking lot, the noise does not change, indicating that the pump itself is probably OK.

On the other hand, it is just the time to replace all engine driving belts (belts are factory fitment and the vehicle has traveled 90 000 km - that is the scheduled interval for replacement).


The mechanic told me that it might just be the belt(s) that are making the noise, or some of the pulleys. I will be known after the belt change has been performed.

I am wondering if it could perhaps be this thing from the BigJimny shop:
www.bigjimny.com/store/power-steering-te...er-bearing-m13a.html


Anyway, I attached the sound recording of the noise. The mobile phone has a noise cancellation technology, so it filtered all the engine sounds leaving just this anomaly sound (just like someone was using a stetoscope to listen).

Can anyone discern what could this be?


P.S.: I will also try to get a "normal" sound recording of the engine without this fancy noise cancellation later in the evening.
Last edit: 20 Apr 2018 06:07 by Bosanek.

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20 Apr 2018 06:06 #191914 by Bosanek
I forgot to upload the actual sound recording. Here it is.
Attachments:

    HissingM13...tion.mp3

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20 Apr 2018 06:14 #191915 by Riccy
The belt tensioner bearing is possible, I would say that sounds more like the aircon compressor. Possibly the magnetic clutch is stuck in?

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

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20 Apr 2018 06:18 #191917 by Lambert
Yeah I would tend to agree with you, the pitch is wrong for my experience of the idler bearing. Though it is definitely a bearing on something.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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20 Apr 2018 06:43 #191924 by yakuza
Try listening through a wooden stick like I have tried explaining in here before.
Use one long enough not to get your clothes or hairdo into the belts.
Very old trick this and works great to isolate sounds and locate problems.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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21 Apr 2018 06:25 - 21 Apr 2018 06:26 #191969 by Bosanek
Thank you both for the suggestions. If it is the AC compressor's belt clutch, should the pitch or intensity of the sound change when the compressor turns on?

Also, would it be wise to turn the engine ON with one of the two engine's driving belts removed (just to see if the sound will stop when for example the power steering pump is not being driven)?
Last edit: 21 Apr 2018 06:26 by Bosanek.

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21 Apr 2018 09:57 #191977 by Lambert
You can but only for a few seconds it's a pretty rough thing to do. Best to use the stethoscope idea above to isolate the noise with the belts on.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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22 Apr 2018 05:50 - 22 Apr 2018 05:51 #192011 by Bosanek
I will try that trick then.

Is it recommended to use a pair of original Suzuki belts or are there some good aftermarket brands (which ones)?

The thing is that a few aftermarket belts which I found (Japanparts, Nipparts, etc. - no big brands) are like 7-8 times cheaper than original belts. These aftermarket ones are dirt cheap, like 5 EUR per belt.

So I'm wondering which ones to purchase. Does any high-level aftermarket brand make these belts and pulleys etc.?
Last edit: 22 Apr 2018 05:51 by Bosanek.

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22 Apr 2018 08:07 #192014 by Riccy
No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThere is a cheap way to bypass the A/C compressor (if thats whats failed). You can use a 4PK850 belt to miss out the compressor on that run of belt as its shorter and doesnt foul on anything. I have found no great difference with branded or dealer belts from the cheap ones, so cheap it is :-)

I only know about A/C because mine has failed. There is a magnetic clutch in the pulley part of the compressor. On my grey jimny the bearings failed in the pulley so i bypassed it. In my red jimny the clutch has failed instead and its constantly engaged (can see frosting on the pipes when A/C is switched off so is still engaged, but fan doesnt run except when A/C switched on).
A friend had a spare A/C compressor from a ignis sport, which has the same pulley/clutch arrangement. i found you can undo the allen bolt in the centre of the pulley and remove/swap the pulleys as a spare part (much easier than the manual shows about rebuilding). This can be done on the car provided the radiator is removed (coolant is much easier to replace than the refrigerant gas!)


J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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