2-lo switch video guide.

I recently bought a new Jimny and needed to wire in a '2-lo' switch. Here is a very poorly made video of the simple process of installing said switch.

For those not already familiar, the switch allows you to control the front hubs independantly of the 4wd lever. The main benefit of this is to allow the use of low range in 2wd. It's great for trailer work, tight manoeuvres on grippy surfaces or doing donuts.

very nice of you Busta
now i don't have to search forum when explaining to people how to do it
i still need to do this on my latest jim so much fun can be had in snow with 2low

Jack

Very nice explanation.

Put on WIKI maybe?

Thanks Martin, though I try to encourage people to author the contents themselves... you know, like in a WIKI

I'll take a look, although I have no clue what R72 gearbox is...

Nice blog Busta

Does anyone know if the same wiring modification works on newer Jimnys with electric (push-button) transfer box?
If it does, does it have the same effects like with the older lever operated transmissions?

I doubt it, as I believe the electrical switch version usees the 4WD module to control both the vacuum system and the transfer box - so everything is controlled digitally. So a signal comes from a switch, to the module and then to the vacuum system and the transfer box.

In the lever version the communication was in the opposite direction: it was a simple switch in the transfer box that sent a signal to the 4WD module, which in turn operated the hubs.

Although someone with some more electrical experience might be able to figure that out... I'll just stick with an old-school transfer box for as long as I can

Well despite that functional flow difference, I believe that there is still a way to enable 2WD-L in electric transmission Jimnys.


The general concept of achieving the engagement of 2WD-L mode in electric transmission Jimnys would be this:

While being in 2WD and then pressing the 4WD(-H) button the 4WD controller has to be fooled into thinking that the vacuum system for the front wheel hubs has done its work (engaging the front wheel hubs), while actually nothing would happen in that department.


The specifics on how to do that would depend on which signals the 4WD controller sends to the vacuum system, and what it expects from the system as a resulting/returning signal that the vacuum system has successfully done its duty.

The command signals from the 4WD controller towards the vacuum system should be blocked off (to prevent the system from engaging the front wheel hubs).
Also, the returning signal from the vacuum system towards the 4WD controller would have to be faked to show a positive result, so that the 4WD controller is fooled into thinking that the front hubs are now engaged.

If this is achieved, now the 4WD controller should engage the front propeller shaft in the transfer box (effectively thinking that now it is in 4WD(-H). The vehicle would essentially remain in 2WD(-H), with the addition of the front propeller shaft now being connected to the transfer box, but it (and the front differential) would turn "in vain" without any effect, except a minor increase in mechanical wear and fuel consumption.


Now, the next step would be to simply press the 4WD-L button, and the 4WD controller would shift from H to L range just like it normally does. As far as I know, the 4WD controller checks nothing with the vacuum system when shifting between 4WD-H and 4WD-L and vice versa.

Disengaging back to ordinary 2WD mode should be just the opposite procedure.


I am looking forward to read a further elaboration on this general idea by someone else, as I am not entirely confident on it.

I am not confident about it either, but I was thinking maybe it is not necessary to bypass the vacuum system - I think that a separate valve (or two) on the way between VSV and hubs would do the trick: You'd close the valves not to let vacuum change the state of the hubs, while keeping the vacuum system tight and it should fool the controller, as there are no hub vacuum sensors or such.