BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Trailmaster vs. Black Raptor
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If you haven't got access to a press, the method most use is to drill the rubber out, slit the outer casing with a hacksaw and fold it in to release it. Pretty easy to do with simple tools.
The poly bushes are in two parts and simply push in by hand, the steel steel centre bush holds them together when they are loose...
sniper
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The only suggestion is use a hole saw (pick size to go over centre bush) rather than a drill. It's quicker and you can't snap it off in the rubber which is always possible with a drill.
Like this
www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-multi-materia...w-uNTIhoC8W4QAvD_BwE
But get correct size!
Mike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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Is it best to fit them assembled or fit the Polly outer first, then press in the steel insert?
Black 2019 Jimny SZ5
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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Black 2019 Jimny SZ5
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sniper
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Black 2019 Jimny SZ5
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I'd say fitting that single poly one might be fun..... as can getting the old ones out. When I did my front arms on my Land Rover, I thought I'd try the drilling the rubber out. Resorted to the press in the end. One needed about 12 tonnes of pressure to pop it out.
That said, smaller car like bushes I've done on a vice before. Still not fun though.
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Soeley wrote:
DAGZOOK wrote: Ideally you need a press to remove the OE bushings. That being said I poly bushed my BMW Z3 and to remove the old bushings, the rubber part of the bush was cut out using an oscillating multi tool, then the race was slotted using a hacksaw and the old bush then just taps out.
The above method only works if you're installing poly bushes, because they are a super easy DIY install, no special tools required!
That is interesting to read as I got these CORRECTION BUSHES with my lift kit and I was wondering if screwed rod, nut bolts and spacers would be enough to get them in. Just a quick squeeze through the bag didn't feel like any give in them.
Soeley I can only speak for the power flex bushes that I bought as a full car kit for my Z3, but all of the poly bushes came in split halves that are assembled VERY easily by hand with some silicone lubricant (usually provided) you then push the steel bush through the centre again by hand. Looks like you caster correction bushes are one piece!
There's different hardness ratings of poly bushes, I think the unit of measurement for this is defined in 'SHORE'? In terms of the powerflex range, the black bushes are the firmest - purple are the most comparable to a rubber OE bush. But the assembly method is exactly the same
Installation wise, they normally supply a little sachet of silicone lube either a bench vice job, or threaded bar and washers will be needed to install those.
Check out this videos which illustrates the removal method that I used for the OE bush. (chain drill & hacksaw) other methods like an oscillating multi tool & hole saw would work great too.
www.powerflex.co.uk/fitting-guides
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300bhpton wrote: Remember the lube is not just for fitment. It is integral on how a poly bush works, as the centre insert is held tight when bolted down and the insert should be rotating inside the polly. Rubber bushes are bonded and rely on the stretching/compressing of the rubber through a twisting action.
They are castor correction bushes.... You would hope that the centre's don't rotate, you would have variable castor angle......
sniper
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All depends on the type/style and function of the bush I guess.
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