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BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)


BigJimnyMeet 2024

14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds

Booking now open - EARLY BIRD DISCOUNTED PRICE

Click HERE for details

× A place for general chat about the Jimny. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.

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Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message

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Read this if you own a Karcher..

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13 May 2020 08:26 #222192 by HUN
I bought a K2 for £45 5 years ago. Used 5 -10 times in a year. Died after 3 years of use without showing any sign of being weak or faulty. I'm pretty sure it's a built in timer like you can find in printers toners to stop working. I just bought the same model again for £48 and touch wood it still works. And now I have spare parts for all bits and bobs. I think they are disposable products for under £50.

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
Full floating rear axle conversion, JB underbody guards & recovery points
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM manual hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
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13 May 2020 12:39 #222198 by DAGZOOK
Seems as though the cheaper Air cooled models tend to outlast the more expensive water-cooled variants... their price isn’t representative of longevity/quality obviously :(

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13 May 2020 13:06 #222199 by Scimike
I don't think the cheaper model outlast the more expensive, they are all rubbish. My experience was with the cheap (£80 average price ) K2, both actually failed within 12months, very little use. 1st burnt out motor, 2nd cheap plastic mounding split resulting in water and electricity mix. Managed to fix the second and was surprised just how poor the design was. Not for me anymore.

Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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13 May 2020 14:48 #222201 by DrRobin
Great work.

RCDs measure the inbalance between Live and Neutral, they generally look for >30mA difference and trip if it is greater than 30mA. They work on the principle that any difference in current is going to earth and that indicates leakage or a short.

They are set at 30mA as this is regarded as the maximum current that a human can survive at if they get an electric shock.

In most electrical supply systems (in the UK at least) the Neutral is connected to Earth at the sub-station (known as TN), so most RCDs are measuring leakage from Live to Earth.

All of this is very interesting, but what does it mean, well if your RCD is tripping it is nearly always leakage, the insulation between live parts and earth has broken down. Motors are very susceptable for it, even a bit of damp can cause enough leakage and anything which is near water (pump, wasking machine, tumble drier) all trip the RCD eventually.

I had a cheapo pressure washer, that eventually started to seize, it lost it's grease from the pump part and was just wearing out, probably for using it hours on an end cleaning the patio. I replaced it with a Karcher a few years ago and give the Karcher the same abuse, I haven't had any problems with mine, but it is good to know you have published a great strip down.

Incidentially you will get the same on your alternator when you drive through a deep stream, it is just that is at 12V, not 230v (110v for most countries) and therefore leakage is not the same problem.

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Ex 2011 Blue Jimny SZ4
Northumberland Jimny Blog

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13 May 2020 17:05 #222207 by DAGZOOK
Thanks for the additional info on RCD's Dr Robin, My household supply is PME (TN-C-S) which like you said is very typical.

I thought it was important to share with the members of the forum, because RCD's are so often mistaken for overcurrent devices (MCB's).

Similarly if someone were to have a modern RCBO fuse board which is a device that combines an RCD (Residual current device) & MCB (Overcurrent device) it may not be all that obvious as to what is causing the trip, so careful investigation would be required!

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16 May 2020 07:52 #222303 by kirkynut
I have the smallest, cheapest Karcher and it went wrong just inside the warranty period. They asked for a copy of the receipt of purchase (I keep everything, so no problem) and a photo of the silver seal on it to show I'd not opened it up. I sent these by email and another arrived in a couple of days.

I meant to repair the old one as it was just leaking out the bottom and had lost pressure. I suspect that they may do the same just out of warranty as their customer service was great. Is that because they're used to it?

I've read that Neilfisk is the brand to buy but not cheap. You get what you pay for I suppose. I'd have to get another snow foam lance too though as the fittings are different.

My replacement Karcher is doing ok though and washes 2 cars every 10 days.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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