BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
Click HERE for details
Suppliers/Dealers or anyone selling with a commercial view in mind CANNOT post here unless responding to a specific request of a member in a "wanted" post.
Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message
Suppliers or Members who have contributed to the forum can be identifed by the logo.
Under sealing
- Cremator1
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
It's a horrible job though!
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Andy2640
- Visitor
-
Public
kirkynut wrote: Look up a company called 'Before and After'. I think they have a few places around the country. Cost it up and look at posts on here and other Forums with a Google search and then cost up doing it yourself.
It's a horrible job though!
Kirkynut
I wouldn't use that company IMO. Just my opinion. Just google them: Terrible feedback from multiple forums. I was tipped off by a fellow forum member. I had a friend use them and it went ok, but it pales into oblivion when looking at customer feedback.
Weird timing, I have only just posted about them! In fact that's really surreal.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 2107
- Thank you received: 552
- Points: 12717.00
It helps if you can get the Jimny higher in the air, ramps under all wheels or similar gives enough room.
As you have a compressor the other bits are available from Machine Mart or similar places.
Gun and stone chip, but you can pay less / more, just an example:-
www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cub3-under-body-seal-gun/
www.machinemart.co.uk/p/gravitex-plus-hs-stone-chip-protector/
You can spray it on anything but in general avoid things that move, rotate or get hot.
Having said that I am not a fan of just spraying underseal to cover up rust. A better option (just my opinion) is to spray black (not clear) Waxoyl after treating any rust with a rust converter. Underseal or stone chip is only good in stone chip areas IMHO. For inner box sectionos etc use Dinatrol cans with the application Lance, expensive but better than Waxoyl in these areas.
Would I pay to have it done?
No, it's expensive and the time constraints of professional firms can lead to "chuck it on, cover it up and give it back asap" application methods.
It's time consuming and messy, but if you do it yourself you know it's done correctly.
Ps The same machine mart gun with empty underseal can (used as a reservoir) can be used to spray neat Waxoyl.
PPS What ever you apply the vehicle needs to be 100% dry and free from mud etc. It may require a few sunny days after a good jet wash underneath to dry it out. Another reason not to use firms, how do they dry it before application as they only want the vehicle for a day ??
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 8814
- Thank you received: 1761
- Points: 36277.00
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 2107
- Thank you received: 552
- Points: 12717.00
These are the anti rust treatments applied to our 2009. Not saying it's the best as everyone will have their own methods, but it gives you an idea of the work involved:-
1) Any visible rust attacked with a wire brush / power file to remove loose or old underseal in area.
2) Rust then treated with Hamerite Rust Treatment (back to black type).
3) Treated areas overpainted with RPC rust encapsulation primer.
4) If underseal removed in step 1 underseal re-applied to area.
5) If part originally black RCP over painted with black enamel (only applies to axles and anti-roll bar).
6) Complete underside of vehicle sprayed with Black Waxoyl.
7) Any box sections etc treated with Dinatrol cavity wax, I used 4 cans.
It took 3 days to complete last year and I was lucky enough to have a few weeks warm and sunny weather to get it all dry.
I removed the front and rear bumpers plus any underbody plastic trim to allow better access to hidden body parts.
This will give you your first views of the front (under headlamp) body mounting points. These are rot spots and mine had started to go, one side required a welded repair. I was shocked at how poor Suzuki's anti rust prevention is, so very happy I spent the time on ours before it gets any worse.
We are assuming rust prevention is your goal?
Mike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- jackonlyjack
- Offline
- Platinum Member
-
Registered
- Posts: 2911
- Thank you received: 653
- Points: 8466.00
They have companies dotted around not the cheapest but probably the best
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Cremator1
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
One thing about this topic is certain - there are dozen wrong ways to do it and only a couple of correct ways. The other certain thing is that some methods which appear quite OK can actually make the situation even worse in the long term.
I hope that it contributes to the awareness of this.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Cremator1
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 360
- Thank you received: 95
- Points: 2140.00
It's topic that folk can become quite emotive over and if done correctly (thorough surface preparation and application) can be an asset. On the other hand I have personally seen it used to cover a multitude of defects and seduce a buyer into thinking they are purchasing a sound vehicle with a long lifespan - when in reality the vehicle is fit for the crusher.
I've done a few DIY applications in the height of a sunny summer - rather messy, not technically difficult and I knew it was a thorough job (because I did it). Cleaned the underside thoroughly (including equally thoroughly drying off/out over a couple of very hot days) and sprayed with old fashioned Waxoyl - including flooding box sections on the chassis and avoiding exhaust system and brakes. After 18 - 24 months I 'topped up' a few areas where needed and after that it was just an occasional squirt where tall vegetation or debris had made contact with the chassis legs.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.