Head Gasket

Hi everyone,
Got my 03 Jimny last week and loving it, having done 95K miles and there not being really any service history I have been doing a general fluid change for the entire car. I plan on taking it down to France for the winter season and am keen to change the head gasket before I go, it’s not showing any signs of being blown but for peace of mind and for future ownership I want to know it’s good and won’t potentially blow. I have some experience with bits and bobs but don’t have the tools or experience to change one on the M13A with the chain drive. Garage costs are looking to be £350 plus the gasket at £80. Does anyone on here know anywhere that could do it reasonably or themselves has the tools and would be keen to lend a hand, I’m based down in ALTON Hampshire but would be willing to travel some distance to get this done.

Second question, there is a sheared rocker cover bolt on my engine and the remaining bolt sits below the top of the shoulder, it’s the back right and really hard to get above. Does anyone know if you can replace the threaded stud in the cylinder head or is the only option to drill it out and re tap the hole. In my efforts to remove it have kind of mashed up the thread above it.

Sorry for long post, but thanks for any of your responses!
Cheers!

blue is the best,,,

Certainly Is a great colour

Although I don't know the Jimny all that well (yet) I would wholeheartedly agree with Lambert on the matter of the headgasket, and would say that most modern car engines wouldnt require this..

Regarding the broken stud/bolt, I would be inclined to repeatedly soak it with the likes of WD40 for a few days - or lots longer if its looking grim.
Once that's done thoroughly, I'd then drill into it and try extracting it using a Dormer extractor



or another good quality extractor. (I find the likes of Draper ones with a spiral on them pretty poor in comparison to the Dormer and likely to snap.
(Bear in mind if it does snap, you will now have a hardened metal stuck inside the bolt/stud and it will need to be carefully ground using a small diamond encrusted rotary file)

I've used Dormer extractors for years with great success. You do feel them twisting slightly as you use them so be careful - if you feel that happening you are getting fairly close to breaking it.

My technique is make the largest possible hole without getting too close to the threads, drill into the end of the broken bolt/screw/stud as squarely as possible, and deep enough that the extractor cannot bottom-out in the hole.
Position the extractor squarely into the hole and firmly tap it down using a hammer until you feel the helix on the extractor start biting into the sides of the hole... Then a few more taps to make certain.
Ideally, use a T-handle from a tapping set on the square top of the extrector, slowly unscrew the bolt, applying steadily increasing pressure to the turning action on the extractor and the offending fastener will hopefully come out.
With seriously awkward ones where the extractor is slipping in the hole and not biting into the sides, I get someone to firmly tap the top of the extractor while I turn the bolt.
At a push you could use an adjustable spanner on the square of the extractor but be careful to apply only rotational force and not lean it over as you turn which could lead to breaking the extractor.

Oh yes, and dont forget: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey

Just adding a third "dont change the head gasket". As stated unless you have reason to believe its leaking I would leave it well alone. If you feel the need to change anything the top and bottom radiator hoses can deteriorate with age and usually leak first. This is not Jimny specific problem, just a car in general issue. Having said that my Jimny top hose started to leak at 50k miles (2009), but a new hose and antifreeze soo sorted it out. Supprised how weak the original top hose was compared to the new, so happy I changed it.

If the rocker cover gasket is not leaking then leave it alone would be my advice. But if you are determined to do the job then from your description removing the rocker cover should reveal the remains of the shank of the snapped bolt. If there is enough of it to allow you could use a bolt removal tool or even a good quality mole grip. Preferably the actual make MOLE grip as the Chinese copies are crap. Or if you can weld then weld a nut on the shank and screw it out. If that fails then cut the shank flush with the head and centre punch the remaining shank and very carefully drill the centre. Use cobalt drills and start with say a 1.5mm and build up to just under the shanks diameter. If you have been accurate that will leave you with a hole that you should be able to retap without damaging the head. Hope this helps..