BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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headlining removal
- philpridd
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- jackonlyjack
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so be patient when pulling it down
Jack
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- philpridd
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If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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Be a little more patient than we were taking it down from the Black-Jack Jimny?jackonlyjack wrote: hi the lining will have a small amount of glue running down the centre in a wavy line
so be patient when pulling it down
Jack
It at least gave me a peep at how mine is held on matey! :beer:
Removing the roof lining and refitting without creasing it.....has to be trickier than a full gearbox strip and rebuild!
Whereabouts is the aerial to be situated Phil?
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- philpridd
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philpridd wrote: thanks again Jack,l really want the aerial in the centre of the roof,it came with a magnetic mount,but I would prefer a permanent mount,with a quick release fitting,so I can just remove the aerial,without disturbing the lead to the c.b.,though if its too much of a job,I may stay with the magnetic mount,Thanks Phil.
stick with your first plan drill the roof
(as that's what you desire and the look you want)
when it comes to personalising no job is too much
stick at it then you will be happy
Jack
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However, if the risk of creasing the roof trim panel is that high, I would not risk it.
Does anyone know of a proper method on how to properly remove it? On how many places is the trim glued to the roof?
After removing all side trim from the vehicle cabin, is that glue the only thing which holds the trim to the roof?
For those who have seen the roof from the inside after they removed the head liner - is there anything between the head liner and the plain steel roof sheet? I mean any sound insulation material?
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Theres the side plastics and grab handles holding it up as well as some plastic clips here and there.
The glue is like a squiggle on the front and back flatter sections. There is nothing else in there apart from the glue. I put some sticky backed foam insulation in there (designed for wooden floors), which works a treat and was pretty cheap. Found there was no need to glue it back in place either.
The Dynamat type stuff is no doubt better.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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Was there any original insulation between the headlining trim and the roof metal panels when you removed it?
What is (approximately) the maximum thickness of insulation padding which could fit in between without obstructing normal placement of the head lining trim back into its position?
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I used the space to fit a switch pod thing onto the roof for the lockers, lights, etc. plenty of space for the wiring to run down an A pillar and all not be seen or affect the shape of the headlining.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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