BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Just finished my m16a conversion
- Steveolkinevel
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It's even ticking over just perfect with the m16 throttle body and 1.6 idle control valve, at first it was ticking over at 1800 rpm and I went to my local machine parts place to try and get a 5 sided torx bit (it's not a ordinary torx bit on the control valve) which they diddnt have, came out started it up and it's ticking over just fine now! not that I'm complaining.
Any way if anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help as it's all still fresh in my mind
Cheers steve
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I started out with nothing & still have most of it left
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- the_goshawker
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This is definitely something I've been considering. I'm wondering if there's any difference between the swift sport and the grand vitara M16 apart from power output? Do the Jimny ancillaries fit on the M16 block, was there anything special you had to do or was it just swap over the bits from the M13 onto the M16? Any issues with the electrics/sensors?
2" Trailmaster suspension lift, 2"body lift, snorkel, full breather kit, 29" steel wheels with BFG tyres, tinted rear windows, CRT CB radio with modulator antenna mounted on rear, dog cage and tray in the back.
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Gordon you want a liana engine ideally if it's a M16A you're after. All the Jimny bits swap across.
If you search "liana" you'll find loads of info on it
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Is there any reason the jimny bits wouldn't swap across to the swift or vitara engines as they are M16A also?
2" Trailmaster suspension lift, 2"body lift, snorkel, full breather kit, 29" steel wheels with BFG tyres, tinted rear windows, CRT CB radio with modulator antenna mounted on rear, dog cage and tray in the back.
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- Nicks_Jim
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Hi I've done the same engine swap but only used the 16 throttle body but the 13 idle control valve which works fine . Some say that like yourself have used the 16 idle control valve and works fine after running for about 20 mins them the rpm settle down , so I know what I'm going to trySteveolkinevel wrote: This past week I've been plodding away with my m16a conversion and for those who are in 2 minds weather the go ahead with it or not I can say......... Don't even think about it, get one ordered asap! I can't belive just how bigger difference it's made, normal road driving now is just incredible, before my little 1300 was tired and sluggish beyond belief, even the slightest hill and I was down into 2nd gear and revving the nuts off it, but now I keep going for a 6th gear it will set off in 2nd gear no problem and power up hills in 4th without a problem, 100% the best thing I've done.
It's even ticking over just perfect with the m16 throttle body and 1.6 idle control valve, at first it was ticking over at 1800 rpm and I went to my local machine parts place to try and get a 5 sided torx bit (it's not a ordinary torx bit on the control valve) which they diddnt have, came out started it up and it's ticking over just fine now! not that I'm complaining.
Any way if anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help as it's all still fresh in my mind
Cheers steve
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flashg0rd0n wrote: Nice one,
Is there any reason the jimny bits wouldn't swap across to the swift or vitara engines as they are M16A also?
You need VVT for VVT or non VVT for non VVT apart from that they swap.
www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30308
I started off high and worked my way down ever since
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- Steveolkinevel
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Yea as said all the bits are direct swap from the 1.3 to the 1.6, the wiring is the easy bit cos every plug is different and all the wiring is attached to the inlet manifold and you use that any way.
I would recommend that if you are going to do this swap to make your life easier order yourself a m10 fine metric tap because the liana exhaust manifold uses some different bolt holes and if it's like my engine the ones that the Jimny manifold uses will be full of crap and oxidised and you won't be able to get a bolt in, I had to take a bolt and cut a v shap either side of the threads and make my own thread cleaner but this was very time consuming, had to do the same with the engine mounts too.
I decided to use the 1.3 oil filter thread but as its locktighted in place I used my cheap gasless welder and ran on a 3/4 nut (it's just shy of an m20 nut) on a couple of turns then a quick run of weld directing the heat into the nut, then simply used socket to remove the lot, it was then just a matter of threading into new block then grinding the weld off and unscrew nut.
The only other hurdle was the small Allen bolt on the oil pickup pipe, because my Allen key sockets were worn I rounded the head off so again I had to tack weld a bolt on top to remove it, luckily it was on the 1.3 block, put if you have decent Allen keys this won't happen so it was my own doing
Other than them it was just remove and install.
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- Steveolkinevel
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Well I set out to use the 1.3 control valve off the bat but diddnt have the bit to remove it, glad I diddnt buy one now.
Give it a go nothing to loose only few mins to swap anyway
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- Anderson27
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