BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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If so you can have your own thread in this section.
This section on other websites has led to arguments and contention. People are posting pictures of their pride and joy and therefore CONSTRUCTIVE comments only please!
Ulysses
- jackonlyjack
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My only question is is the brake backing plate really needed
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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jackonlyjack wrote: Thanks for all that info Pal
My only question is is the brake backing plate really needed
Brake backing plate is optional. I am trying it to see if it makes any difference to rear pad life/disc condition. I welded up any spare holes on it first too.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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Lambert wrote: Having had one of the free wheel hubs apart the ring you welded the cap to is just held by a snap ring clip but unfortunately avm doesn't sell them separately should you have a need which is pants. Nice job though.
Thankfully its not there to take any great force (as the axle shaft is now floating). These hubs are some old/used cheap Tyrex ones, so I didnt mind trying it welded before future AVMs getting fitted. I doubt the shaft will move once settled, but this gives peace of mind over the issue.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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First was that the trailer/tipping body had moved slightly to the passenger side and the cover had snapped at a corner weld. Corner weld was easy. Moving side to side was more tricky. I have drilled and tapped large screws & washers into the ends of the pin that goes into the bearing to stop them sliding out:
And made up some angled guide rails for the bed to align with its rubber stops properly:
That sorted out the wrong stuff, next was the annoying winch controller. Its a winchmax one and came with a wireless remote that can also be plugged in (e.g. if battery goes flat). The reciever for the wireless part of it is not waterproof (so winchmax tell me). Its located within the solenoid box (the solenoid is waterproof at least). Obviously mine has got wet as it no longer works. Plugging in the lead is a bit of a pain as the solenoid box is under the bonnet, near the airbox. A cheap two position retractive switch was bought from amazon and wired into the dash blank beside the fog light switches.Fitted with a little filing to the inside edges It doesnt match in at all however, but works well for now:
I do remember someone on here found a supply of matching switches for the Jimny dash, but cant remember who???
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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- Daniel30
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Danst have been in touch... The throttle bodies are being made as I type and hes got a solution that will let me keep a snorkel, albeit a large one (4" was suggested - not sure how a drainpipe will look going up the car?!)
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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- Posts: 1936
- Thank you received: 554
- Points: 7523.00
With having the spare wheel mounted on top of the load bed cover it was getting a bit heavy to work by hand. I was going to source some gas struts and use them, but have gone for linear actuators in the end. This was for two reasons; 1) to automate it electrically and 2) security as when its down theres no lifting it up by hand. The actuators themselves worked out cheaper than the gas struts, but more expensive by the time I added in the control kit (by about £60).
control kit:
Ive messed about mounting them up today and strengthened the hinge mounts as they were poor. Working well even with the weight of the spare tyre, if a little slowly (that could be the old alarm battery im using to test it however). Just need to wire it in permanently and put the spare wheel back on. There are also some steel flat bars over the sides of the tarpaulin now to stop it being lifted off easily. The wireless control kit needs to go in the cab somewhere as its not waterproof and I want to wire in a backup manual switch incase of remote control failure.
The other wireless thing that the postie landed with was a new set of remotes to go on the winch...
Winchmax wanted about £45 for a new remote and reciever. This came from amazon for £12.99. Obviously its not as sexy to look at as the winchmax ones, but will do for my needs happily enough
Oh, and the ITBs are due to be done by end of next week
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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I can live with that and you get 2 in case one breaks or gets a flat battery.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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- Posts: 1936
- Thank you received: 554
- Points: 7523.00
I can live with that and you get 2 in case one breaks or gets a flat battery.
Kirkynut
Having got them wired in now, I see what you mean. Slight delay to go and it seems to go for a minimum of 1 second, which is sometimes more than you want. However I have the dash switch if precision is needed. They were easy to wire in and I put the reciever part in the dash behind the switch previously fitted to keep it dry.
In other news... I was finding that I had a huge amount of slop in the driveline. Fiddled about taking props on and off and discovered that it was the manual hubs fitted on the rear Ended up fitting some original suzuki vac hubs instead (with a bolt inside to keep them permanently 'on' as recommended by Andrey the Russian supplier of floating rear kits). That sorted the slack out nicely, but at the cost of easily disengaging the rear drive.
Also replaced the front output bearing and seal on the Rocklobster transfer box as there was an oil leak and play in the bearing, not that it made any difference when in 2wd, but its nice to know its all good and fresh oils
After that it was putting stuff together and finishing off the rear load cover. I had been slowly applying a coat a day of paint to the bits of metal getting bolted onto the cover, put it all together and pretty pleased with it:
and finally...
Still waiting on DanST for the throttle bodies. Lucky I wasnt in a rush
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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