Difference between revisions of "Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4)"

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m (Bosanek moved page Aftermarket subwoofer installation (Jimny 4) to Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4): The title now starts with the "key word" by which most readers would look for it in the alphabetical list of articles)
(Added mention of possible OEM subwoofer and installation kit)
 
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This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.
 
This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.
  
The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).
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This guide is based on the installation of an aftermarket subwoofer speaker. If Suzuki does offer an OEM subwoofer with an installation kit, someone should mention the part numbers and describe the installation procedure in a separate chapter of this article.
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The aftermarket subwoofer that I used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).
  
  

Latest revision as of 07:23, 2 December 2019

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Introduction

Gen4-100x100.jpg


This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.

This guide is based on the installation of an aftermarket subwoofer speaker. If Suzuki does offer an OEM subwoofer with an installation kit, someone should mention the part numbers and describe the installation procedure in a separate chapter of this article.


The aftermarket subwoofer that I used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).


Tools needed

  • Large flat head screwdriver;
  • Small flat head screwdriver;
  • 10 mm socket & driver/ratchet;
  • #2 Philips screwdriver;
  • Electrical tape;
  • Suitable tool to pry plastic trim;
  • Wire cutter;
  • Wire insulation stripper;


  • For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide)
    • Soldering iron;
    • Solder;
    • Heat shrink tubing;


  • For those who prefer detachable wire connections:
    • Suitable cable connectors;
    • Wire crimper;


Extra parts needed

  • 2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire;
  • 1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type);
  • 1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4);


Supplied cables

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The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables

Power:

  • Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell.
  • Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected.
  • Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell.


The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead.


Speaker input:

  • White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers +
  • White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers -


Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input, only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run. More importantly, when fitting the rear speaker, an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker. This means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring. If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will need to be run to the other rear speaker.


Remote:

The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly.


Trim removal

This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in this guide: Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)

  • Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull);
  • Remove the glove box;
  • Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker;


Power cable installation

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  • With the seat pushed forward, find the existing cable hole in the carpet.
  • The route between here and the door isn’t that easy so I first pushed some mains cable through (or anything stiff and flexible) to use as a draw wire.



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  • Tape on the cables and pull the draw wire out the other side.



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  • The ground wire can now be connected to the chassis in the footwell next to the door.
  • There is a 10mm bolt that can be used that already has a few ground wires connected.



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  • For the best connection use a stud hole crimp.



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  • Undo the plastic screws holding the carpet down
  • Run the yellow cable under the carpet to the passenger footwell fuse box.
  • Leave the yellow wire to be connected later on.




Page last edited on 2/12/2019 by user Bosanek