Brake pipes and hoses replacement
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Seen a mistake? Know something that isn't written? Edit and change this article yourself!
Some images in the article (if present) can be enlarged by clicking on them.
Introduction
Page last edited on 26/12/2018 by user Delux
Deluxs guide to replacing brake pipes!
My technique is one that has been honed and fine tuned over several years as a mechanic replacing rusty, leaking brake pipes on cars so bad you wouldnt let your dog cock a leg on them.
Anyway, its brakes so you dont want to mess about. The car has a recent MOT, the brake pipes are not the worst I have seen but, using my techniques they needn't be difficult or expensive. Cheap peace of mind is always good, right?
I start by clamping off the rear brakes. I'll be bleeding the whole braking system later but doing this now maintains the fluid level in the rest of the system and lessens the chance of having air trapped somewhere. Rather than mess about I cut the old brake pipe at the brake pipe end.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/PGpAJK][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/PGpAJK]20181209_125439[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
This means you can get a decent single hex socket on the end and remove it quickly. The original brake pipe ends on my 54 plate Jimny and every other Jimny I remember working on are 10mm.
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[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QNS6]20181209_130006[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
You obviously need to do this either end of the pipe. If you do it 1st, all the brake fluid will have dripped out before you remove it meaning less mess. Next remove the retaining clips
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[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/RjENbQ]20181209_124639[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
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[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2do3i3d]20181209_124922[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
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[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/PGpBAK]20181209_125208[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
They are 10mm self tapping bolts. If you can get them off 1st time, thats fine but a bag of 10 new ones off ebay is only a few pounds. Before going any further I like to make sure the bleed screw is good enough to bleed the brakes. I have seen people replace all the brake pipes on a car only to discover one of the bleed screws is blocked/rounded off. No-one likes to see a mechanic cry!
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QMUz][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QMUz]20181209_130220[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
Ok, so if all went well you should have this on the floor.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/PGpAi4][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/PGpAi4]20181209_125539[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
So now we need some shiney new pipes to fit on. Do not stress about making up a brake pipe the same length yet. We are doing a nice neat custom job rather than setting ourselves needless hurdles! Making new brake pipes involves using one of my favourite tools. My brake pipe flaring tool was about £30 from ebay about 10 years ago. It does a great job every time, flares copper or steel pipe, has very few moving parts to go wrong and you dont need a vise. Slide the new brake pipe end on first! You feed the new pipe in, finger tighten the 2 10mm bolts, tighten the 16mm bolt at the end. This positions the pipe to be flared. You then tighten the 10mms to clamp the pipe
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2do3cuE][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2do3cuE]20181209_130605[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
When the pipe is clamped you screw this bit in. This end gives you a male flare. On most Japanese cars the pipe has a female flare.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QKTk][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QKTk]20181209_130730[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
So you unscrew it and screw the other end in, this gives the flared end a female flare
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QJMc][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2c4QJMc]20181209_131324[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
Now you can refit it. Feed the pipe roughly in position ensuring it is routed the correct side of suspension components etc. Dont worry about the shape or length. Screw the end into the wheel cylinder etc with your fingers. This can be tricky on a jimny as the pipe does not fit in at right angles to the cylinder. Once its started tighten it up. I'm using a brake pipe spanner but you dont really have to. Remember you are tightning it up to compress the seal on the pipe. You dont want to tighten it up until your arm is shaking!
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2aFX9bu][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2aFX9bu]20181209_131805[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
Dont hold the spanner at this angle unless you want to punch the underside of a jimny! When this end is tight shape the pipe and fit the clamps/clips back on as you go. When you get to the other end cut the pipe. Leave a few cms of slack. Your bends are not going to be as sharp as the factory ones so your pipe needs to be a bit longer.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2aFX7ZG][img]
[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2aFX7ZG]20181209_132448[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
Flare the new end on, screw it in. Tweak the position of the pipes as necessary and thats it! Easy!
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[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2aFX68W]20181209_143311[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
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[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2dsw5Nc]20181209_143352[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159422664@N08/]deeelux deeelux[/url], on Flickr
