Difference between revisions of "Subwoofer speaker installation (Jimny 4)"
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{{intro-notes}} | {{intro-notes}} | ||
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== Introduction == | == Introduction == | ||
{{Gen4|}} | {{Gen4|}} | ||
| − | This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only | + | This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only. |
The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment). | The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment). | ||
| + | |||
== Tools needed == | == Tools needed == | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
* Large flat head screwdriver; | * Large flat head screwdriver; | ||
* Small flat head screwdriver; | * Small flat head screwdriver; | ||
| Line 17: | Line 21: | ||
* Wire cutter; | * Wire cutter; | ||
* Wire insulation stripper; | * Wire insulation stripper; | ||
| + | |||
* For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide) | * For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide) | ||
** Soldering iron; | ** Soldering iron; | ||
** Solder; | ** Solder; | ||
| − | ** Heat shrink; | + | ** Heat shrink tubing; |
| + | |||
* For those who prefer detachable wire connections: | * For those who prefer detachable wire connections: | ||
** Suitable cable connectors; | ** Suitable cable connectors; | ||
** Wire crimper; | ** Wire crimper; | ||
| + | |||
== Extra parts needed == | == Extra parts needed == | ||
| − | *2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire | + | |
| − | *1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type) | + | |
| − | *1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4) | + | * 2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire; |
| + | * 1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type); | ||
| + | * 1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4); | ||
| + | |||
== Supplied cables == | == Supplied cables == | ||
| + | |||
[[File:Jimny4sub1.JPG|400px|thumb|left|]] | [[File:Jimny4sub1.JPG|400px|thumb|left|]] | ||
| Line 40: | Line 51: | ||
'''Power:''' | '''Power:''' | ||
| − | *Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell | + | * Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell. |
| − | *Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected | + | * Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected. |
| − | *Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell | + | * Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell. |
| + | |||
The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead. | The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead. | ||
| + | |||
'''Speaker input:''' | '''Speaker input:''' | ||
| − | *White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers + | + | * White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers + |
| − | *White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers - | + | * White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers - |
| + | |||
| − | Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run | + | Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input, only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run. More importantly, when fitting the rear speaker, an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker. This means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring. |
If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will need to be run to the other rear speaker. | If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will need to be run to the other rear speaker. | ||
| + | |||
'''Remote:''' | '''Remote:''' | ||
| − | The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly | + | The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly. |
| + | |||
== Trim removal == | == Trim removal == | ||
| + | |||
This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in this guide: [[Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)]] | This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in this guide: [[Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)]] | ||
| − | *Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull) | + | * Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull); |
| − | *Remove the | + | * Remove the glove box; |
| − | *Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker | + | * Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker; |
| + | |||
== Power cable installation == | == Power cable installation == | ||
| + | |||
[[File:Jimny4sub2.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | [[File:Jimny4sub2.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | ||
| − | *With the seat pushed forward, find the existing cable hole in the carpet. | + | * With the seat pushed forward, find the existing cable hole in the carpet. |
| − | *The route between here and the door isn’t that easy so I first pushed some mains cable through (or anything stiff and flexible) to use as a draw wire. | + | * The route between here and the door isn’t that easy so I first pushed some mains cable through (or anything stiff and flexible) to use as a draw wire. |
<br clear=all> | <br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
[[File:Jimny4sub3.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | [[File:Jimny4sub3.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | ||
| − | *Tape on the cables and pull the draw wire out the other side. | + | * Tape on the cables and pull the draw wire out the other side. |
| + | <br clear=all> | ||
| − | |||
[[File:Jimny4sub4.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | [[File:Jimny4sub4.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | ||
| − | *The ground wire can now be connected to the chassis in the footwell next to the door. | + | * The ground wire can now be connected to the chassis in the footwell next to the door. |
| − | *There is a 10mm bolt that can be used that already has a few ground wires connected. | + | * There is a 10mm bolt that can be used that already has a few ground wires connected. |
<br clear=all> | <br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
[[File:Jimny4sub5.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | [[File:Jimny4sub5.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | ||
| − | *For the best connection use a stud hole crimp. | + | * For the best connection use a stud hole crimp. |
<br clear=all> | <br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
[[File:Jimny4sub6.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | [[File:Jimny4sub6.jpg|400px|thumb|left|]] | ||
| − | *Undo the plastic screws holding the carpet down | + | * Undo the plastic screws holding the carpet down |
| − | *Run the yellow cable under the carpet to the passenger footwell fuse box. | + | * Run the yellow cable under the carpet to the passenger footwell fuse box. |
| − | *Leave the yellow wire to be connected later on. | + | * Leave the yellow wire to be connected later on. |
| + | <br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | {{Edited}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Category:Infotainment - gen4]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Howto - gen4]] | ||
Revision as of 07:17, 2 December 2019
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Contents
Introduction
This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only.
The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).
Tools needed
- Large flat head screwdriver;
- Small flat head screwdriver;
- 10 mm socket & driver/ratchet;
- #2 Philips screwdriver;
- Electrical tape;
- Suitable tool to pry plastic trim;
- Wire cutter;
- Wire insulation stripper;
- For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide)
- Soldering iron;
- Solder;
- Heat shrink tubing;
- For those who prefer detachable wire connections:
- Suitable cable connectors;
- Wire crimper;
Extra parts needed
- 2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire;
- 1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type);
- 1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4);
Supplied cables
The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables
Power:
- Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell.
- Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected.
- Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell.
The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead.
Speaker input:
- White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers +
- White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers -
Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input, only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run. More importantly, when fitting the rear speaker, an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker. This means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring.
If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will need to be run to the other rear speaker.
Remote:
The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly.
Trim removal
This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in this guide: Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)
- Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull);
- Remove the glove box;
- Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker;
Power cable installation
- With the seat pushed forward, find the existing cable hole in the carpet.
- The route between here and the door isn’t that easy so I first pushed some mains cable through (or anything stiff and flexible) to use as a draw wire.
- Tape on the cables and pull the draw wire out the other side.
- The ground wire can now be connected to the chassis in the footwell next to the door.
- There is a 10mm bolt that can be used that already has a few ground wires connected.
- For the best connection use a stud hole crimp.
- Undo the plastic screws holding the carpet down
- Run the yellow cable under the carpet to the passenger footwell fuse box.
- Leave the yellow wire to be connected later on.
Page last edited on 2/12/2019 by user Bosanek
