Removing the pedal block

Hello everyone,

During the last weeks my Jimny started to have more and more shifting problems, up to the point when it became impossible to shift gears without stopping the motor. I adjusted once the clutch cable but this only fixed the problem for a few days.
Upon careful inspection I discovered that the metal plate that holds the clutch cable's "shirt" to the pedal block is broken (pretty much the same problem described here www.bigjimny.com/forum/7-jimny-technical...ith-pedal-block.html )

It looks like the fix is to remove the pedal block and to either replace it or have it professionally welded. I would rather save money and remove the pedal block myself, is this a straightforward operation or there are any "traps" (so to speak) that I should be aware of? Any help will be greatly apreciated

No one has some experience about this operation? From what I dug up using google it would require removal of the steering column but someone managed to do it by just "lowering" the column.

From what I gathered it seems to be a rather common problem. No one has any input about the removal of the pedal block?

Sorry mate, it's not that everyone is ignoring you. It's more that we are all as much in the dark as you, and waiting for someone to enlighten us.

Like you say, if it's a common problem, somebody has done it before.

Good luck with your search and repair.

Paul

If you want some general advice look at a lupo forum very common issue on them there might be some help there.

i remember a guy at the portuguese forum that had a similar problem, but it wasnt so much the cable attachment point that failed, it was the pedal box mounts that came off.
in any case, looking at the parts on the tread you posted, and given that the jimny is not drive by wire, i would guess it's just a matter disconecting the cables and taking it of..

i had the same problem, but my mechanic welded the metal plate
but mine wasn't all cut off, so i was easy to weld

It's easy

Unhook the clutch cable
Pull the spilt pin on the top of the brake pedal and pull out the linch pin
Disconnect any wiring that is in the way Inc brake light switch
Drop the column then unbolt the pedal box

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll let you know how it goes

OK, time to share my own finds.

1. It is indeed possible to remove the pedal block without removing the steering column, at least on the earlier models (mine is a 98). It's a cramped job and after clearing the brake lever you need to rotate the pedal block (with the pedals towards the driver's door when working on RIGHT hand drive cars) in order to clear the lowered steering column. Not sure in which direction you'll have to rotate it when working on left hand drive cars but you'll definitely have to rotate it.

2. There are four nuts around the brake and two more up under the dashboard. Pay attention as the four nuts also serve to fix the brake booster on the shell. I didn't saw this mentioned anywhere and it's pretty important, as you could end up damaging the brake fluid lines if you end up pushing on these bolts while wiggling the pedal block out.

This being said, the whole thing is not that bad if you pay attention to what you're doing. The only horrible part is the position, I ended up working on a side and somewhat twisted upwards as the other obvious option (head down, bottom up on the seat's rest) required the removal of the steering.

Total cost was next to noting, just had a guy at a local shop do MIG welding on both sides of the pedal block. I did myself the rest, maybe 1 hour for removal and 2 for installation.

I'm guessing it would be easier by taking the drivers seat out?

I wasn't bothered much by the seat, as during most of the time my head was stuck far under the steering

Maybe removing the seat would work in order to allow sitting on your back on the bottom of the car with the feet on the back seat. That's for someone else to try and report back with the result