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BigJimny Meet 2019 (17 May 2019)

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20TH OCTOBER 2019

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Re:Jimny manual trans problem - G13BB engine

  • Owl
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01 Sep 2019 00:16 #212924 by Owl
Hi All, Having trouble shifting to 1st gear from standing start. ie, When Im stopped at traffic lights I need to shift to 4th then Im able to shift into 1st gear. No abnormal noises or other issues. It dosen't crunch into gear. Its annoying. Seems like by doing this it slows the gearbox mainshaft so I can shift back into 1st.

Ive tried adjustng clutch pedal free travel and for the clutch to disengage earlier etc, No difference in the problem.

A new clutch was supposed to have been fitted. Has anyone come across this? Ive come across this in other vehicles and its been the clutch pressure plate fatigued, but this supposedly has a new clutch kit installed? Maybe they didnt ?

Anyone had this problem before and found the solution?

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01 Sep 2019 17:55 #212938 by facade
They don't like going into first when standing, you can try a different gearbox oil, like 75/90 fully synthetic, but you get used to knocking it into first just as the wheels are stopping, or lifting up then pressing down the clutch to give the gearbox a chance to spin round a bit.

You get used to it.....

Have to say I never thought of going for 4th first in all the years I had mine :)

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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01 Sep 2019 21:25 #212955 by kirkynut
I think you'll find it better with a gearbox oil change. Try it and report back here.

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02 Sep 2019 09:26 #212970 by Owl
Thanks for comments. I had these symptoms some years ago in my old Van, it was a fatigued pressure plate, Binds to the flywheel and makes it too hard for the synchro to do its job. I didnt say what i thought it was to him, but the gearbox tech had explained and confirmed my thoughts its a clutch pressure plate issue. Not sure if I explained properly but when the gearbox warmed up 1st gear was not possible to get without putting it into 4th or 3rd gear to slow the mainshaft down,

A new good brand clutch kit is the prescription. The engine builder was supposed to have put a new clutch kit in, and charged me for a new clutch kit, looks like he must have got the new one mixed up with the old one. :angry: :angry: :angry: be interesting whether the existing clutch is new or not? Ive done under 1000kms on the reco engine so the existing clutch will tell the truth.

I did put some new gearbox oil in but it didnt help the 1st gear from standing start.

facade, give it a go, try plonking the gear into 4th gear or 3rd, then shift to 1st. It should shift in easier if your got a bit of pressure plate binding.
This was std practice in old series land rovers esp the ones with a crash box (no synchro in 1st). Good ol days.....not really, the jimny is like a limo compared to the series LRs I drove.

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02 Sep 2019 17:02 #212994 by facade

Owl wrote:
facade, give it a go, try plonking the gear into 4th gear or 3rd, then shift to 1st. It should shift in easier if your got a bit of pressure plate binding.
This was std practice in old series land rovers esp the ones with a crash box (no synchro in 1st). Good ol days.....not really, the jimny is like a limo compared to the series LRs I drove.


I traded it in for a gen 4 auto, I had it 10 years and I rebuilt the gearbox (to cure a noisy input bearing) and changed the clutch, it was always the same. I did try magic gearbox oil, super expensive fully synthetic, and I don't think it made any difference apart from an initial placebo effect.

I had a IIA with no syncho on 1st & 2nd, a III with the all synchro 'box, and a 200TDi 110 - that was awkward to get in 1st too.

I can't see it being the clutch sticking, as I'd expect it to go in easier- with a mighty crunch if there was a slight stickiness, or just try to grind all the teeth off if the synchro couldn't stop the front half of the gearbox and the clutch.

I just assumed it was mechanical misalignment, and down to the dog teeth not being crowned enough.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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02 Sep 2019 23:12 #213028 by Owl
Hi facade, when engine cold, yes it will go in 1st if you put stick bending pressure on the gear-knob, its just way too much stress , sure to bust something eventually. When its at operating temp it, at times will not not budge to get 1st gear, unless i select gear 3 or 4 and then back up to 1st.

The diagnostic: I've seen this before on my other van, that both reverse gear and 1st have troubles engaging, with reverse, it has an over stated crunching to engage. little crunch I understand is fine and normal. The 2nd professional opinion is taking that line.

1st gear will get impossible to slot in as the engine ./ gearbox warms up to operating temp. Its identical to the clutch problem i have seen before. I took it to the 'go to' gearbox tech' and he diagnosed the shift probs as the clutch. He did say that the pressure plate has a different release characteristic when they get warmed up which magnifies this fault .

I have to go with that for the moment, but after reading these posts I accept it may not be the fix but i need to try this out. ill keep you posted.

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03 Sep 2019 02:14 #213029 by Riccy
Probably worth checking the condition of the bushes on the stick linkage. That can make for a wobbly or tricky shift.

They are cheap to replace as well. Buy exhaust hangar rubbers for a classic mini. Fit perfectly and stiffens it up well

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03 Sep 2019 02:58 #213030 by Owl
I've given the vehicle over to a reputable gearbox tech to do the deeds.

He did the initial gearbox overhaul, new bearings throughout, new input shaft, and replaced a broken 5th gear, 2nd gear synchro ring was replaced. Seals etc done. Recondition job.

if this works out , that just leaves the case of the screeching belt noise from hell, remains another mystery. Either misalignment or i'm thinking the crank pulley (balancer) might have moved? Don't know yet.

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03 Sep 2019 09:03 #213037 by facade
Just a thought, there is a bearing in the end of the crankshaft that supports the input shaft. If that is seizing it will cause the same symptoms as clutch drag.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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03 Sep 2019 09:24 - 03 Sep 2019 09:35 #213040 by Owl
Good point! You mean the spigot bearing , yes that was supposedly changed out at the engine reco stage, Not sure that happened.

The input shaft end where it sits inside the spigot was flogged out so a new input shaft was fitted to gearbox to match the supposedly new spigot. The gearbox tech who has it now is thorough, he will check it. All will be revealed by the end of the week id think. Ive agreed for him to go ahead with the clutch job.

the way it went was the gearbox was overhauled by a separate business, taken over to the engine reconditioners who did the removal and refit. So the gearbox was reconditioned and the tech had no more to do with it.....until now.
Last edit: 03 Sep 2019 09:35 by Owl. Reason: more juicy bits.

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10 Sep 2019 10:32 #213348 by Owl
Hi All. for those interested new clutch kit was fitted, incl. spigot bearing, That fixed the transmission shifting problems. All working fine.

The problem was the original refit of the gearbox was too rough and burred and bent the clutch plate centre spline hole. Half the spline channels were burred and or bent.

The plate couldnt move and was binding to the gearbox input shaft., The moral of the story is, carefully align input shaft, go easy mating the gearbox to the engine. Its a jungle out there.

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10 Sep 2019 15:50 #213362 by facade
Well I've never heard of that before :ohmy: mind you I always make sure that the clutch plate can slide easily on the gearbox splines before I fit the clutch, and line up the plate when I fit it.

Glad it is fixed.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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