BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
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Replacement Key Fob - Done!
- Leighlo
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Just ordered a replacement fob from Amazon and fitted the electronics inside it. Works perfectly and no more holding down!
The original Suzuki blade doesn’t fit the kit but I’ll get a new one cut tomorrow, at least I’ve got a backup key blade now too.
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- NickR
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So, did you effectively just replace the plastic case? Could you have just replaced the rubber and top cover, so the old blade/bottom cover was still usable, or were they not compatible with the bottom cover?
Any pointers much appreciated - I was looking at the other threads here discussing a new key which needs coding and cutting, and this seems worth trying first!
Thanks
Nick
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Try taking apart and cleaning, then a new battery as the first port of call. amazing how much dirt gets inside the rubbers and surrounds. It makes the buttons stick on slightly and flattens the battery fairly quick.
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- NickR
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I tried that, hoping they were carbon pads for switches or similar, but it made no difference. New battery didn't help. The unlock works perfectly, even from a distance. The lock works from a distance, it just requires a firm hold rather than a press.
I may try and replace the switch on it, but if LeighLo's issue went away with new rubber/plastic, that is worth a go (my detail soldering is not a pretty sight). Nice to have a new-looking key case as well
Cheers.
Nick
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- Max Headroom
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NickR wrote: my detail soldering is not a pretty sight
Mine neither!
I replaced the battery in mine only last week as it started workling/not working randomly.
I was a bit surprised to find that the battery was a CR1616 . Anyway it all works now, but looking at the internals while it was all apart, I would imagine that trying to solder anything would probably require some good soldering skills and a specialist micro-soldering iron. I reckon even some of my aviation avionics colleagues would look upon that job with some trepidation!
If cleaning, try using a cotton bud/ Q-tip dipped in isopropylalcohol
IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
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I have taken it apart, the PCB resides inside a rubber bubble with the buttons moulded into it. The actual PCD buttons are surface mount switches, so are not that easy to clean. I gave the complete assembly a clean and reassembled, after which it worked with a short press whilst walking, so it can do this. Unfortunately it only lasted a few days and its back to the slow deliberate press.
Lieghlo changes imply that its the rubber bubble/ key moulding thats the issue, as thats the only items changed, the PCB and switches remain the same. We could do with this confirming.
So maybe its the rubber indenting or distorting with time preventing the button being pressed cleanly?
Just thinking out loud.
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Also, those with intermittant faults after changing the battery, try bending the springy contacts that contact the battery slightly.
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- NickR
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You may be able to see the broken connections on the 2 closest connection on the left-hand SW2 switch in this very-poor photo...
I am reluctant to solder the broken joints as I may end up with a permanently-pressed switch. It is working for now, but I think I may try buying one of the replacement keys from ebay. I can keep the old key blade and immobiliser, and hopefully the circuit board is purely for the remote locking. Then all I would need to do is pair the new electronics to my remote locking. I found various posts here and elsewhere and this seems to be the only sequence I can find for my 2007. Does anyone know if this is correct? I obviously have the current key electronics as well, which I can use if there is another sequence that needs one already-working key
1) Confirm that the vehicle is the following conditions.
• All doors are closed.
• Ignition key is out of ignition switch.
• Driver side door is unlocked.
2) Disconnect negative (-) cable from battery.
3) After 30 seconds, perform the following procedure within 60
seconds.
a) Connect negative (-) cable to battery.
b) Operate driver side door knob switch from lock to unlock.
c) Push “LOCK” button on transmitter and confirm that are
operated from lock to unlock.
d) Push driver side door knob switch to lock position.
e) Push “LOCK” button on transmitter twice and confirm that
all doors are operated from unlock to lock. With this, code
registration is completed.
Nick
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It's been fettled just a tad.
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- NickR
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I have ordered this key to replace the remote-locking internals of my current key (hopefully the middle assembly will just drop in the original key case. That leaves me the opportunity to try my hand at replacing those tact switches with new ones! I give myself a 50% chance of destroying the PCB, so fingers crossed!!
Nick
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- Max Headroom
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(yes he makes it look easy but I dont imagine it can be that difficult.... Can it?)
IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
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- invincible
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