Another question....about brakes!

I doubt it to the brake question. Spongy would indicate wear and/or the flexi being compromised. For the cost I would replace that and then after ensuring both the handbrake and shoes are adjusted properly try bleeding. You could actually adjust the shoes so that they are hard against the drums so that the pistons don't have to move for bleeding and then slacken them off and see what you get. For the engine problem I would start another thread to make it easy for the members to help you subject to subject. But when was it serviced with all new filters and oil?

I’ll have a go at adjusting it to the drums then bleeding it all up. I’ve only had it a couple of months since March and only been on road with me since beginning of June it does have quite a large oil leak from around the sump area and the filter looks old but I can’t tell when it was last serviced. I have however replaced the lack of air filter with a k&n one I guess that could be startling it of air maybe? It was one I had in my old jimny and was just on the shelf so maybe dusty/grubby I’m going to connect the car up to the dial at work to see if that throws anything at me.

Sumps are a known problem area and can go porous or just leak from the mounting area. best to take it off, give it a good clean inside and out and with a torch or lead lamp check for porosity in a dark place to see if it has gone thin. If not clean both mounting flanges and use a good quality sealant designed for hot oil environment when refitting. When I buy a car the first thing I do is a full service and thorough inspection of all the car to ensure what is what. That gives you a good starting point to work from if you ever get a fault.

I change my brake shoes at a little above what looks to me is 50% wear. Dunno why this helps but they get much better after. Could be something with the auto adjustment bracket sprocket or the springs. I usually do this in good time before the MOT. (every other year here) I have been doing this since i hade my SJ413 to get it to pass MOT easier. Same braking system more or less on those and the Jimny.
I have always been doing a lot of sandy and wet offroading so the shoes wear down fast, and new shoes need some time to get wore down to the shape of the drums to get even brakes for the MOT.
New shoes is approx 35£ so if i save another trip to the garage for the second or third visit wich here in Norway cost at least 40£ to get an even braking result the maths are easy.

I do usually change the oil but it did seem clean so didn’t bother. I might just try steam clean the sump with some tar for the mot so it looks like it’s not leaking anymore then do the repair when I get chance to...having a 2 year old doesn’t help me do bits to it I get about an hour a day when she has a nap and lately it’s been no nap so no time to do it! Just need to get a filter for it as I’ve got about 10ltr of good oil that I got a while back from where I worked at the time

Basketcase wrote: .it’s not got load valve corrector thingy...would that make the brakes not work at the rear? The handbrake doesn’t even work could it just be air trapped inside the load compensator valve?

I am a bit confused - do some have the compensator valve not fitted.
Being unable to get my rear brakes through the MoT the last time was a large reason why I sold my Jimny as it was an annual nightmare. I had checked the valve was working and there was nothing wrong with the brake system - a lot was fairly new, at least it was after I had tried everything! lol - so I just put it down to inadequate rear brakes.