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Another question....about brakes!

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16 Aug 2018 21:41 #195186 by Basketcase
My Jim went for mot few days ago and well it was horrific... the brakes had little or no pressure on the rear but front passed ok...it’s had (I believe) 3” springs 2” spring spacers and 2” body lift...it’s not got load valve corrector thingy...would that make the brakes not work at the rear? The handbrake doesn’t even work could it just be air trapped inside the load compensator valve? Or something else? I’ve checked the shoes they look fine enough meat on then for it to still work to some extent more than it does! My old Jim had less meat and stopped far far better...any idea guys? Also is there anyone near St. Helens that could lend me their headlights u till I get enough money to get a new set as mine have no beam pattern??

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17 Aug 2018 07:40 #195188 by Lambert
Sounds like an adjustment of the shoes is needed. There's a little oblong hole with a grommet that you remove from the back plate that allows you to use a flat screwdriver to adjust the starwheel in the shoes with the wheels in place. Quite simple and should get you stopping again.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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17 Aug 2018 08:30 #195192 by Basketcase
I’ve tried that and the handbrake cable is also as tight as it can go on the handbrake lever too and that’s still pointing at the sky! Lol

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17 Aug 2018 08:37 #195193 by Lambert
Snapped handbrake cable or cables? Clogged rear brake flex hose. It's just that no handbrake and no rear service brake sounds like unadjusted shoes. What does the brake pedal feel like, is it good and firm?

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!

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17 Aug 2018 08:47 #195194 by Basketcase
The cables are new from James about 2month a go, I’ve currently got the rear flexi pipe clamped off as when it’s not it really struggles to stop. The pedal goes right to the floor even with handbrake fully pulled up! I’ve just spoke to the mot tester and he said the front brakes were fine and passed it was just the pedal travel and rear brakes that failed it. I’ve bled all them up but could the re be some air left in the compensator? That was being a right pain when bleeding up?

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17 Aug 2018 09:33 #195195 by Lambert
Ah ok. You found the bleeder on the compensating valve? I have abs but my last bleed took 3 goes to get it completely free of air. It goes without saying that you shouldn't have to clamp a line to get a pedal.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!

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17 Aug 2018 11:30 #195200 by Basketcase
I know I just felt safer taking it to work to get the boss to do the welding with it clamped as it feels like it’s doing more. Might just go mental with the rear shoe adjuster and keep adjusting it till the world ends and see what happens then.. and fiddle with the compensator valve bleed nipple to try and bleed that see if it starts to work. The brakes haven’t been great for a few week but since I drained the fluid bottle by melting the braided hose it’s not had any brake pressure at all and all the nipples at squirting brake fluid out

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17 Aug 2018 11:37 - 17 Aug 2018 11:38 #195201 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Another question....about brakes!
From the handbrake perspective,, which is manual and does not use the hydraulics per se, it definitely sounds like a adjustment problem. As you replaced the cables which meant the brakes were stripped down I assume it all went back together properly! If so then I would have a go at adjustment again. Spin the wheel each time you move the clicking wheel and depress the pedal to centralise the shoes. When they are adjusted so the wheel cannot move loosen the adjuster till each wheel is just scrapping the shoes. The cables obviously need to be adjusted to ensure there is no free play in the system too.
Last edit: 17 Aug 2018 11:38 by mickt.

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17 Aug 2018 11:56 #195203 by wombat
Replied by wombat on topic Another question....about brakes!
before adjusting the shoes up in the drum its best to slacken the cable adjuster at the handbrake lever right off,then adjust it up when the rear drum adjustment is correct

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17 Aug 2018 11:56 #195204 by Basketcase
I don’t understand it, when I put it all back together it was right and the handbrake did work, not very well, but it did work. But since the pipe lost all the fluid the rear brakes have all but gone. I work at a fast fit centre so usually do tyres and oil services but mainly seem to do the diag and body work or customer service as I seem to be able to talk to anyone. So I have a fair amount of technical ability for repairing brakes changing shoes and pads etc would it be better to bleed the brakes with a person pressing the pedal or to pressurise the system with an easy bleeder.

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17 Aug 2018 18:28 #195211 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic Another question....about brakes!
I always do it with a human foot. Sometimes I get it to pump the pedal until they feel pressure, tell them to hold it down and then I open the nipple.. Do that a few times then finish with the normal slow bleed. Have you checked the rear flexible hose for internal collapse?

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17 Aug 2018 19:22 #195212 by Basketcase
I’ve not checked it no but when it’s not clamped the brake pedal is very very spongy. Could it be one of the rear pistons seized or something? Also upon speaking to the tester, he said about the emissions and also said the car was runnning very rich which would likely cause the emission issues in getting...how do I detect the rich issue and fix it?

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