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Changing the kingpin/swivel bearings - questions
My Jimny has developed terrible death wobble so I'm in the middle of changing my kingpin bearings. I've disassembled everything, and cleaned as well as I can. I have a few questions before I start to put things back together though:
1. In Martin's video, when he replaces the axle oil seal, he uses the end of a rubber mallet. Is this necessary? Mine pushed in by hand and seems a tight fit and is sitting nice and flush. I noticed that there's a long, thin metal spring around inside circumference of the rubber seal, and I don't want to risk damaging this by hammering the seal in further if not necessary.
2. The article on the wiki says to pack the CV with grease, but not to overpack. How much is too much?
3. The article and video also say to fill the knuckle with 100ml grease. Please can someone confirm that by 'knuckle' they mean the cup on the end of the axle, as in the attached picture? Also what's a good way of measuring 100ml grease?
4. Also, I've attached a picture of the old bearings. Apart from being filthy they don't look too bad as they are in one piece. Could these still have been the cause of the death wobble?
A tub of grease is typically 400 to 500 ml depending on what you have bought so 100ml is around or just under a quarter.
Those bearings could easily have been the source of the issue.
You can often push the seal home with your fingers, I just wanted to make sure mine had gone in all the way
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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- Thank you received: 138
Those bearings pictured look about done. I bet the one on the left is from the bottom.
J999 MNY, M16 VVT, R7me gbox & Rocklobster,
31x10.5r15 Cooper STT, 2x ARB Lockd' 3.9 diffs & twin compressor,
6.5" total lift, Zookbob HD steering shock, Ignis recaro's
Custom bar & arches, rocksliders & guards,
Snorkel, K&N, 13500lb Winchmax, Buzzweld, etc, etc
Plus ULYSSES (06' trayback project)
Dano, it's not a bad job just a bit messy. The video on this site is really helpful. The circlip was easy to remove with a £10 pair of external circlip pliers from Halfords, and I tapped the old bearing races out with a small cold chisel. The brakes practically do themselves during the job, as you have to remove the pads and discs to get to the hub. If mine still has the wobble then I will be changing the wheel bearings next, although I will probably take the hub to a garage and pay someone to press the old bearings out and new ones in.
Took for a test drive and has definitely improved still a bit of wobble will do the other side in a day or two.
theoldseacaptain wrote: I had a similar issue a few months ago - changed all kingpins without much improvement. In the end it was new brake discs that cured it!
Brake discs are an easy and cheap fix, but from what I've read on here the brake discs only cause wobble under braking. Was that the case with yours, or did it wobble when you weren't braking?
I've had this problem after changing a track rod end, I must have moved the guard while swinging on the the top nut or something.
Dano0404 wrote: Done the other side to day still a very slight wobble but think I can live with it for now. The disk guard rubbed as well witch makes a hell of a noise the wheel brace was perfect for bending it back.