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What brand of manual locking hubs do you use? What’s the best manual hubs to buy?

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27 Jun 2018 17:24 #193838 by Scimike
Driving with the manual front hubs engaged spinning the front drive train should not cause any issues so long as the transfer box is in 2WD.
It is possible that your fuel economy will be less due to the energy required to spin the metal, but I doubt it will be noticeable. Series Land Rovers operate the same way, ie they continually spin the front drive train. Manual locking Hubs being sold as an option on these to save fuel, rather that a fix for a vacuum system.

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29 Jun 2018 15:40 #193858 by kirkynut

TomDK wrote: The SJ Aisin hubs does require a bit of work. But only takes 5 minutes to do.

The unthreaded part of the bearing lock nut needs to be cut off. It's easy to do and doesn't do anything to how the nut holds the bearing on place.


This does not work. Been there, tried it and found out it does not work.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum?view=topic&catid=8&

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29 Jun 2018 16:53 #193861 by TomDK
What hubs?

Works fine on my Jimny and many others with SJ manual hubs.

+3" Trail Master. Fox 8.0" R/R shocks. ORA HD winchbumper. Warn M8274 Ox-motor + Hellfire gears, Delta-Tek mainshaft and freespool, overvolted. 33/9.5 R16 Silverstone Extreme. 5.14:1 ratio SJ transferbox in RW cradle. OMP rollcage.

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29 Jun 2018 18:40 #193869 by S200KYS
The ‘average’ Jimny owner isn’t going to want to release the wheel bearings and then re-torque them up to be able to get the nut out to cut the lip off it though? :unsure:

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29 Jun 2018 22:06 #193875 by kirkynut

TomDK wrote: What hubs?

Works fine on my Jimny and many others with SJ manual hubs.


Aisin SJ freewheeling hubs that I kept from my old SJ. Many others have found the same, which is why the spacers came about. It was partly my findings years ago, back not long after this forum started that spurred the production of the spacers.

The production of hubs that need no spacers now has likely reduced the need for them. My wheel bearing nuts are cut down as much as they can be too.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum?view=topic&catid=8&

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29 Jun 2018 22:08 #193876 by kirkynut

S200KYS wrote: The ‘average’ Jimny owner isn’t going to want to release the wheel bearings and then re-torque them up to be able to get the nut out to cut the lip off it though? :unsure:


And why bother when you can either buy spacers or hubs that just fit?

Times have moved on!

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum?view=topic&catid=8&

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04 Jul 2018 16:40 - 04 Jul 2018 16:41 #193962 by NineCherries
Well thanks for all the info guys. I settled on a set of avm 457hp reinforced hubs. Fitted onto car with no issues. Looks great and should be an end to my 4wd woes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edit: 04 Jul 2018 16:41 by NineCherries.

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05 Jul 2018 04:26 #193982 by Lambert
Just be aware that the polished aluminium is a bare finish and corrosion is both inevitable and rapid without some maintenance or protection. I left mine though so that they're less eye catching to undesirables.

It's not a Jimny. It's my Jimny

Mooo said Ermintrude (black)
Boing said Zebedee (blue)
The following user(s) said Thank You: NineCherries

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05 Jul 2018 12:59 #194008 by Daniel30
The following user(s) said Thank You: NineCherries

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07 Sep 2018 06:56 #195752 by Bosanek
Like the others have already attested, driving a Jimny with the front hub heads engaged will not harm the drive line on any surface, as long as the transfer box is in 2WD mode (front propeller shaft disengaged from the transfer box). Only the fuel consumption will be slightly affected.

I wrote this large wiki article which deals extensively with the topic of fixed or manual vs. vacuum locking front wheel free wheeling hub heads.

I mentioned in that article that trimming the front wheel bearing locking nut is one of the possible solutions for fitting an old Vitara or SJ41x manual hub head. But now I see that such a method is allegedly not feasible, while others claim that it is?

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07 Sep 2018 07:23 #195753 by Riccy
AVM457HP (the red heavy duty ones) are cheaper on this link than standard ones elsewhere. Work out at £144 delivered...

www.ks-international.com/free-wheel-hub-...air-manual-6424.html

set of them on J999MNY now and they are much better than the tired tyrex ones they replace :-)

J999 MNY, M16 VVT, R7me gbox & Rocklobster,
31x10.5r15 Cooper STT, 2x ARB Lockd' 3.9 diffs & twin compressor,
6.5" total lift, Zookbob HD steering shock, Ignis recaro's
Custom bar & arches, rocksliders & guards,
Snorkel, K&N, 13500lb Winchmax, Buzzweld, etc, etc

Plus ULYSSES (06' trayback project)

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07 Sep 2018 08:38 #195757 by Scimike
Anyone removed the vacuum pipes off the front axle and kept them?

My vacuum system still works, but when it stops I believe it will be the above pipes due to corrosion which are in a poor state for a 2009 vehicle. I want to keep the system "as is", but dont want to pay the £170 for a new pipe set.

I believe I could manufacture new pipe sets a a fraction of the cost, but need a unbent set off a vehicle to act as a template. As mine still work they are not coming off just yet, but if someone has a set they would like to donate then maybe we can supply a better made alternative for those that wish to retain it. I am in Stoke-on-Trent and would collect within reason or pay postage (uk).

Its not going to be a money making venture from my prospective, just a forum type supply possibility, so cheap and slow is my work ethic.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but it feels like the correct place to ask as you have already decided to bin the vacuum system.

Mike

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