Undoing crank pulley bolt?

I used a piece of 1/4 plate 2 1/2" wide and 21" long, but I reckon 18 " is more than enough.



I had to chop a nibble out of it to miss the power steering pipe bracket, it wedged nicely against the chassis, and worked just the same on the other side so I could gently tweak the new bolt to around 110ft lb (my wrench only goes to 100, so I wound it past by what I reckon was 10lb on the scale)











The Suzuki tool is just the pulley plate with a piece of thick wall tube welded on, but I used what I had as a one off.





Notice the plate is just big enough to clamp solid to the inner pulley, as it is friction here that holds it, not the two M8s, they will bend like bananas if the plate is loose.

It is all reassembled, cooling down to top up the water, hope it didn't damage the head gasket

Had some trouble getting the last radiator shroud bolt to tighten until I spotted a small square nut on the floor, not quite as captive as I thought

My crank pully fell apart on the way home tonight.
Recovery just dropped me at home I'll get a better look in daylight.

Any pictures of how to re-assemble much appreciated.

I have both belts and the out ring of the crank pulley but I could only see one bolt.

Pleased you were able to sort this one without the dreaded 'block swap' ....

kirkynut wrote: I'm pleased for you that you have this done mate!

I've been reading it and have not envied you one bit!

Good effort for persevering!

Kirkynut

Tadpole wrote: Pleased you were able to sort this one without the dreaded 'block swap' ....

Thanks

SOTA wrote: My crank pully fell apart on the way home tonight.
Recovery just dropped me at home I'll get a better look in daylight.

Any pictures of how to re-assemble much appreciated.

I have both belts and the out ring of the crank pulley but I could only see one bolt.

The new one looks like this (ooh shiny )

The 2 threaded holes are on 74mm centres and fit ISO M8x1.25 bolts to attach a plate to hold the crank still when you undo the nut with a wrench.






Obtain a new pulley & bolt. (If you go to the BigJimny shop and use the contact link, Martin can get them for you.)


Drain water via the drain plug at the bottom right of radiator as you face the engine. It is plastic, and stuck, so use pliers to grip the rim of the plug, not the tabs and it will move without snapping the tabs off. (take the radiator cap off to let air in)

Unclip the rubber hoses at the radiator and pull off, and the rest of the water comes out.

(cover the coolant bucket so doggies can't drink it, as it is sweet and toxic, or dispose of now, and replace with fresh)

Undo the 4 10mm AF bolts holding the fan shroud (2 top 2 under the car at the bottom) and push the fan shroud towards the engine.

Undo the 2 10mm AF bolts at the top of the radiator, one each side that hold it in, and the radiator will pull up as the bottom is simply 2 pegs into rubber grommets. The radiator will tilt outwards at the bottom and lift out.

Remove the fan shroud.

I took the fan off by removing the 4 10mm AF bolts through the viscous coupler, but I don't think you really need to as the pulley only comes forwards 20mm to come off.






I also removed the viscous unit and extension from the waterpump as it would have stopped me from using the scaffold pole, or I would have broken it if the bolt had come free by hitting it with the pole, again you don't need to touch it.

Undo the pulley bolt 17mm AF, either with an impact gun if you are lucky, or do as I did above and slice the big washer off (I made 4 cuts 2 more than the pictures) and then it will undo easily.

Pull the pulley off (use a puller it it won't slide off)

Smear a little grease around the outside of the new pulley boss where it is to go into the oilseal, and push the new pulley on.
Use the new bolt (you paid for it, so use it ) to secure the pulley (150 NM) You may need to find something to stop the engine turning if it wont hold enough in gear.


I changed the oil seal, the old one flips out with a puller, then the new one taps in until it hits the shoulder. Use the old seal to drive it in- hold them together and tap round the old seal with the hammer, and the rim of the old seal will push the new one in.





(Replace the fan extension and viscous unit if you did take it off )
Slacken the alternator lower pivot bolt, and the adjuster bolts and push it right toward the engine, and put on the new belt 4pk830 or 4pk835/4pk836. The 4pk830 will go on, but you will have to turn the crank and work it on.

Adjust it now and tighten the adjuster bolts, (finally tighten the fan extension nuts if you disturbed it)






Slacken the 2 power steering tensioner bolts M12 AF and put a 10mm AF hex key through the hole in the centre. Feed the new belt on 4pk850, tension with the hex key, and secure the 2 bolts.






Replace the fan

Replace the shroud over the fan-don't attach to the radiator yet.

Check the rubber grommets are in the radiator mounts, not stuck to the pegs on the radiator.
Slip the radiator in and get the shroud lower edge above the drain spout and lower hose connector. (You can do it after the radiator is bolted in, but it takes a bit of bending of the shroud if you forgot like I did )

Press the radiator down into the rubber grommets and get the two top bolts in.

Bolt the shroud back on (the bottom bolts are the ones with the big washer, the nut is a square pushed into a slot in the radiator. One of mine fell out then needed a screwdriver pushed into the slot behind it to start the bolt) and replace all the hoses.

Fill with coolant, squeeze the top hose in and out to expel air towards the end and it will eventually fill right up.
Run the engine until the heater blows hot and allow to cool, then top up the radiator and expansion tank.
after the road test, allow to cool, and top up the expansion tank to the mark.

Incidentally, my jimny had started to make A Noise when revved hard in first gear to pull away sharply, a sort of graunchy buzzy howl, just like a worn needle roller in the gearbox. (I was going to buy a set of bearings and rebuild the gearbox when I do the clutch this Summer, I'd checked for loose heatshields and stuff already))

It seems to have stopped now, and I notice at least half of the rubber left on the pulley is all polished

Glad you have finally got it sorted

Well done in turning your pain into other people's gain by writing up a great thread about the problem

Cheers,

If I'd known the old one was breaking loose, I could have run superglue round the splitline and repaired it. while it was still on

still, If I'd known how easy chopping the washer off would make it I'd have just bought the new bolt and had it changed a week ago

SOTA don't forget to ensure all the pulleys grooves are free from debris i.e. rubber, rust etc by wire brushing them till they are shiny!

Absolutely first-class 'how-to', facade.....could accrue a huge number of hits in no time at all.

Fantastic how-to, thanks for the details.

Not sure when I'll get space to carry out repairs, I've refilled the water. With no water pump spinning will it be safe to start the engine just to manoeuvre the jimny into a place where I can work on it?

No longer than 30 seconds running time.