×
BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)


BigJimnyMeet 2024

14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds

Booking now open - EARLY BIRD DISCOUNTED PRICE

Click HERE for details

× A place for general chat about the Jimny. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.

Suppliers/Dealers or anyone selling with a commercial view in mind CANNOT post here unless responding to a specific request of a member in a "wanted" post.

Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message

Suppliers or Members who have contributed to the forum can be identifed by the
logo.

To lift, or not to lift...

More
01 Jan 2019 10:52 #199810 by Max Headroom
I've been watching this thread with huge interest, mainly because ChrisW's initial questions reflect my own, very closely.

There are some excellent and very constructive replies here.that do help me too; I have some crabby looking springs on my Jimny one of which feels significantly weaker so I'm looking at replacing the springs.
I already elected for Monroe shocks based on the experiences of other users, so will probably look for standard springs to go with them, but as yet I'm still a little undecided - one part of me is arguing that if I'm replacing all these suspension components why not include a (2") lift at the same time? However the other part of me is arguing that I'm mostly going to be on the road with the car so why bother!
A dilemma of my own making.

The other confusion for me is the unequal values on the rear springs to compensate for the (apparent) "lean" that Suzuki perceive the Jimny to have from the combined weight of fuel tank and driver in RHD cars.
There seems to be a confusing array of spring choices - granted most of the choices are to do with height. But how critical is this lean issue actually?
I'm sure someone on the forums mentioned to try using 2 x (RHD) rear springs. Has anyone actually done this, and what was the result?

From what I have read recently the steering damper mod is a must so I will be embodying that on the car at some stage.


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 04:53 #199860 by zukebob
Replied by zukebob on topic To lift, or not to lift...

OlaGB wrote: Great info!
Do you know if the more known shocks we use for lift has longer travel than stock , so it gives this maximum travel?

Thanks Ola. The only research that I have previously done of the more "standard" dampers was with Bilstein. There are Bilstein dampers that have a compressed length less than the 312 and extended length greater than the 455. I’m guessing that it shouldn’t be too difficult to find others. Keeping the travel in context, the front is 143mm (5 5/8 inch for us Americans) and a little less in the rear. That isn’t overly extreme.

As it stands now, of the members replying to this thread, you, Lambert and Furo have Trailmaster which is a quality kit. Chris may end up with one too. I’m not sure you could do much to improve what you have. If so, it wouldn’t be much. The dampers in the comfort kit (I’m attaching a Trailmaster file) have a compressed length of 275. I would suggest that you avoid bumpstop extensions which rob you of travel (but confirm you’re hard on bumpstop without bottoming out the damper). Also to Busta’s point, if you are looking for flex, I would suggest that, in spite of numerous disadvantages, you stay with rubber bushes. The poly bushes do have advantages but flex isn’t one of them.

I started out with nothing & still have most of it left
Attachments:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 09:10 - 02 Jan 2019 09:50 #199871 by Busta
Replied by Busta on topic To lift, or not to lift...
Zukebob, it's specifically the castor correction bushes I was referring to. The ones that have a big fat bit of metal where most of the squidgy stuff should be.
Last edit: 02 Jan 2019 09:50 by Busta.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • ChrisW
  • Topic Author
  • Visitor
  • Visitor
    Public
02 Jan 2019 09:11 - 02 Jan 2019 09:37 #199872 by ChrisW
Replied by ChrisW on topic To lift, or not to lift...
Yeah.... still a little undecided. But can anyone confirm if you need to get new trailing arms for a 2 inch lift or not. They only seam to do them for 3 inch lift. Do you just install these ones, or are they really not needed?

Brake cables, I will do the rear disc conversion before hand and replace the brake lines with braided.

I am leaning towards going for the 2 inch trail masters, as the reviews on comfort and the reduction of the jolt from poor roads are really good.
Last edit: 02 Jan 2019 09:37 by Lambert.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 09:17 #199873 by sniper
Replied by sniper on topic To lift, or not to lift...
I got my car with 65K on it, the suspension worked and passed MOT with no issue. I knew it was tired and changed it using standard road springs with uprated dampers. It was like a new car on and off road.

I think a lot of the impact that a small lift gives when fitted, is no different.

You've taken tired original components and changed them for fully functioning new components. The "lift" is pretty secondary...... the impact of new suspension on a tired old chassis is quite remarkable.

sniper

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 09:25 #199877 by sniper
Replied by sniper on topic To lift, or not to lift...
With a 2" Lift, castor correction is not "needed" but some forum members have reported a much improved drive, when it has been fitted.

I think jackonlyjack runs 3" arms with a 2" lift, he says it drives great.

Lots of people have said good things about that trailmaster kit.

sniper

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 09:28 #199878 by Busta
Replied by Busta on topic To lift, or not to lift...
Another thing to consider is that, as far as I'm aware, every lift kit uses springs of a higher spring rate (e.g. stiffer) than the standard springs. This means not only a firmer ride, but also a less supple chassis when it comes to articulation. If you are planning on making your Jimny really heavy with winches, cages and whatever else then stiffer springs may be welcome, but for a close to standard vehicle I don't see the advantage.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 09:31 #199879 by jackonlyjack
No need for radius arms
Some people don't fit castor corrected bushes either
fit the 2" lift and see how it feels to drive then decide if you want to fit castor correction bushes ;)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jan 2019 10:25 #199888 by furo
Replied by furo on topic To lift, or not to lift...
I think most people recommend castor-corrected bushes with standard radius arms, which is what I did.

One thing to mention with the trailmaster kit - I have found it to be very high quality BUT I got Jimny-lean after installing it and needed to get a spacer for the front driver spring.

Busta - I don't know ratings but the trailmaster springs are extremely supple, they definitely feel less stiff than stock

2004 Jimny Mode: General Grabber AT3s (215/75/R15); Trailmaster 2" Lift; Jimnybits Snorkel; Jimnybits Front and Rear Recovery Points; Suntop Roof Rack; AVM Manual Hubs; Stainless Steel Exhaust System (SOLD)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • ChrisW
  • Topic Author
  • Visitor
  • Visitor
    Public
03 Jan 2019 11:52 #199935 by ChrisW
Replied by ChrisW on topic To lift, or not to lift...
@Busta, I am of the impression that the comfort set are not that stiff, but the sports ones are. The comfort ones are supposed to improve the ride rather than making it a super duper off road beast.

@furo, is the Jimny Lean a lean to the side or front to back? Never really understood it.

I think overall I have kept myself sold on getting the kit, just comes down to when. Seams like a summer project. Got lots of other work to do before it gets installed.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Lambert
  • Lambert's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
    Registered
  • The quickest Jimny in Harrogate...(that I own)
More
03 Jan 2019 12:10 #199939 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic To lift, or not to lift...
The sports are very stiff, great if you tow a lot.

The lean is to the driver side of the car if both pair of springs are the same length and force. Front springs are longer than rear ones.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
03 Jan 2019 12:55 - 03 Jan 2019 12:56 #199945 by yakuza
Replied by yakuza on topic To lift, or not to lift...
The comfort is ok for towing too as long as you stay within what your engine can pull like 500-600kg. if i tow like 1000kg it is a bit soft. with 2000kg and you leave the road when you get over 40kmh. I did, but luckily there was a bus stop i slid into.
Mine do not lean i think. haven't noticed.
most important to me was to make space for 235's

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
Last edit: 03 Jan 2019 12:56 by yakuza.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.179 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum

I hope you enjoy using this forum. Please consider making a donation towards the upkeep of this forum website.

We use cookies to give you the best online experience. Please let us know if you agree to all of these cookies. Accepting the Cookies also accepts the Disclaimers for the website.