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BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)


BigJimnyMeet 2024

14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds

Booking now open - Discount for additional vehicles

Click HERE for details

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Here I go again - rustproofing

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13 Aug 2018 09:52 #195078 by helijohn
Imagine there is slight rust starting on the underside. There is the original paint in good condition for 96+%. You know there will be ten maybe fifteen years in the panels before the corrosion penetrates. Having done this sort of job every couple of years or so you don't want to get out the wire brush, the flap sander and so on. You also feel too old to be doing a major clean up job. You really want to to stop the rust spreading as much as possible just because you hate to see rust, hate rust and know that winter salting on the road is a nightmare.

So what do you do if you have decided to use rattle cans. There is Buzzweld, Dinitrol, AC50, Hammerite with waxoyl, XCP rustblocker, Tetroseal, one I can't remember that the Landy folks love, simple engine oil and a whole host of choice but nearly all want you to clean up the surface, remove rust, degrease and a myriad of tasks.
Which will float your boat?

Do it right - use Hammerite
When the blue light is flashing I am kidding.

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13 Aug 2018 10:06 #195079 by zukebob
I don't think these type have much of a following in th UK but ACF 50 and similar are supposed to do a decent job of penetrating and protecting. ACF 50 came up with high marks on testing done by the Canadian military. Corrosion Free 3000 came in a little better in salt environments. Both are spray on once a year type.

I started out with nothing & still have most of it left

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14 Aug 2018 20:33 - 14 Aug 2018 20:42 #195130 by Scimike
Just spent a week and still under my 09 plate removing rust. Suzuki want shooting for the poor protection and paint finish. All the welds are rusty, some of the underseal has rust under it, small hole (now plated) in front body mount by headlamp.
So I have power filed back the rust and treated any remaining with one of those "turn to black" converters. Over that I have painted Buzzweld RPC, over that Fortress black enamel or underseal depending on location. Over it all outside is a layer of black waxoyl, inside the chassis and panels Dintrol.
Over the top I know, but I want to hold the rust back as much as possible.

So the quick route to hold the rust at bay:-

I favour black waxoyl applied neat to exposed uderside body panels, just remove any loose rust and dirt first. Its been very good on my Land Rover series, so its good for my little Jimny. Use a shultz gun and empty shultz can (machine mart) to spray it on, messy but quick.
Inside panels Dintrol spray cans with the additional long spray tude is easier than waxoyl to apply. A little more expensive but the thin spray tube can get it in every hole.

I use ACF50 on my motorbikes. It's the best rust preventing product you can get, but its not for under a jimny. For a start it does not spray, its too thick, so needs applying with a sponge or brush. Its also very expensive and leaves a thin film to protect the item. Great for anything that shines (like chrome), but not for the rusty Jimny.

Mike
Covered in waxoyl in stoke.

Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
Last edit: 14 Aug 2018 20:42 by Scimike.

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